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Complementary trade shows, Panorama Berlin, Selvedge Run and Zeitgeist are relocating from Messe Berlin to Tempelhof Airport beginning from the upcoming January 14 to 16, 2020 event. The new venue is the former home to the now defunct Bread & Butter trade show and serves as an event space for Berlin Fashion Week.
With the theme ‘Rebel with a Cause,’ the trade events aim to trudge along with a same old, same old’ attitude with unconventional formats. As traditional retail takes a hit with e-commerce, social media and resale, the show offers space to brands that dare to challenge established structures and that understand the importance of value-oriented consumer behavior. They essentially recreate concepts that work at retail for the trade.
Panorama will introduce a pop-up format that will include modular brand pavilions customized by the brands. The event will give brands opportunity to showcase their products in an innovative setting with the focus clearly on the product, brand and storytelling.
Organisers of these trade shows also plan to evolve the concept during the July 2020 event by taking the mobile fashion pop-up” to high traffic areas in the city, complete with limited-edition products, drops and parties.
Jesper Magnunsson will now head of global leasing for H&M. Magnunsson, who has worked for the Swedish company for more than 10 years, was head of leasing in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Macau, as well as head of global expansion of new business and franchises of the chain.
The company is in the middle of a reorganization process and has tried new formats like rental with its COS chain in China and its new store in Berlin that focuses on its local market. On a global scale, H&M’s revenue for the fiscal year 2019 was up eleven per cent. In the fourth quarter, H&M sales increased by nine per cent, partially weighed down by calendar effects.
The fashion retailer is on course to increase annual profits for the first time in four years following heavy investment in online and other services to adapt to a changing market. Over the past few years the Swedish-based retailer has invested in online services, new store concepts and independent brands to broaden its customer base and turn itself around. Germany is H&M's biggest market. The group has embarked on a road to recovery after slowing footfall at its core H&M-branded stores caused years of sliding group profits, mounting inventories and shrinking market value.
Bangladesh RMG exports to major non-traditional markets witnessed a negative growth of 6.61 per cent during the first five months of FY 2019-20 Export of apparel items to non-traditional markets, including 11 prospective ones and excepting India, Korea and Mexico, witnessed a negative growth, Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) data revealed.
Bangladeshi RMG sector earned $ 2.24 billion from the non-traditional markets during July-November period of FY 20, which was $2.40 billion in the corresponding period of last fiscal. Export to Brazil, China, South Africa and Turkey witnessed a negative growth of 34.12 per cent, 21.47 per cent, 19.47 per cent and 34.92 per cent respectively during the period. RMG export declined by 7.17 per cent, 4.50 per cent and 2.74 per cent to Australia, Japan and Russia respectively, while it fell by less than 1.0 per cent in Chile during the first five months of current FY, data showed.
The non-traditional markets accounted for 16.66 per cent or $5.68 billion of the country's total garment export volume worth $34.13 billion in FY 19. Export receipts from the non-traditional markets witnessed a 21.77 per cent growth in last FY. More than 76 per cent of the earning from the non-traditional markets came from these 11 potential ones.
The RMG export in traditional markets - the EU, the US and Canada - also fell by 8.51 per cent, 5.17 per cent and 13.15 per cent respectively during July-November period of FY 20.
The India Business of Fashion Report study released recently predicts, Indian apparel market is expected to grow by nearly 11 per cent to reach $ 85 billion by 2021. The Indian apparel market, pegged at around $65 billion, is the second largest retail market after food and grocery in India. It grew at a CAGR of 11.5 per cent in the period from 2012-17 and is expected to grow at nearly 11 per cent CAGR in 2017-21 period to reach a value of $85 billion by 2021.
These estimates are part of a study by Rajat Wahi, Partner, Deloitte India study, titled 'Apparel and fashion industry and the importance of innovation and sustainability' for the report. The report further illustrates that the country's fashion market is majorly driven by key growth drivers, including young demographics, rising urbanisation, increasing affluence and a growing middle income segment, greater brand awareness, better accessibility and availability and increased formalisation of the sector.
"Upcoming menswear fashion show Milano Moda Uomo will showcase 77 collections this year compared to 56 last year. The event will be held from January 10-14, 2019. Luxury fashion brand Prada will present a collection once again at the event after showing in Shanghai in June."
Upcoming menswear fashion show Milano Moda Uomo will showcase 77 collections this year compared to 56 last year. The event will be held from January 10-14, 2019. Luxury fashion brand Prada will present a collection once again at the event after showing in Shanghai in June.
Along with Confartiginia to Imprese and the Ministry of Economic Sviluppo and Ice
Agenzia, the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana will present a new improvement plan for the Milan Men’s Fashion Week.
The project will present Milan and Italy as international fashion hubs, giving space to small and medium companies and presenting to the world Italian know-how; starting in Florence with Pitti and also Milan Fashion Week. It will give the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, the opportunity to expand the event on an international platform.
Indian readymade garment exports fell more than six per cent in November 2019 as compared to the previous year. This was due to the delay in disbursements under the Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies Scheme ((ROSCTL) and the Merchandise Exports from India Scheme (MEIS), exporters are facing a severe cash crunch and are not able to compete with garment manufacturers of other countries who have various advantages. Reimbursements worth over Rs 5,000 crores are pending.
Indian exports are not competitive. Textiles from India are around 10 per cent costlier than textiles from other countries. Also Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Vietnam have low production costs and their exporters enjoy preferential duty access to key markets. In comparison Indian exporters face higher trade barriers in the US and the European Union. Bangladesh’s exports to the EU face zero per cent tariff and exports to the US face 3.9 per cent tariff. Indian textile exports face six per cent tariff in the EU and 6.2 per cent tariff in the US. In an attempt to counter subdued exports, Indian readymade garment exporters are creating modalities to make a portal or a central database, where they can list their products according to categories to assist buyers.
"Involved in buying raw cotton from the country and exporting ginned cotton to countries like India, Bangladesh, China and Indonesia, Tanzania Cotton Association has so far produced 600,000 bales of ginned cotton. The association has now set its sights on the Indian market. Boaz Ogola, General Secretary of the association elaborates on its operations and future plans."
This year, Tanzania Cotton Association (TCA) produced 600,000 bales of ginned cotton. This group of 45 cotton stakeholders is involved in buying cotton, cleaning it and exporting this ginned cotton to the above mentioned countries through its agents. “Our main job involves cotton ginning,” says Boaz Ogola, General Secretary. “For this, we form a public-private partnership with our government and the private sector,” he adds.
TCA also works with research centers, and import and export agencies. “Around 75 per cent of the cotton produced by us is exported. The rest is consumed by the domestic industry,” expounds Ogola further.
The textile industry of Tanzania covers the spinning, knitting, weaving and fabrics segments. The country grows most of its cotton organically. Since this cotton is handpicked, it is not contaminated. “About 60 percent of this cotton is roller ginned which helps us to maintain its fiber length and strength,” adds Ogola.
TCA also adheres to strict working conditions. Its ginning facilities are free of forced and child labor. “Our companies have been certified by Cotton Made in Africa, and we now aim for the Best Cotton Initiative (BCI) certificate,” notes Ogola.
The organic cotton produced by TCA is also exported to countries like Switzerland and Turkey. The country now sets its sights on the Indian market. “Investments from India would add value to our operations. We can create new jobs and offer better prices to our farmers,” avers Ogola.
Though Tanzania’s official currency is the shilling, TCA uses the dollar for its exports. “We have a politically stable environment which helps us to move towards an industrialised economy. It also helps our government to attract investments from the global textile leaders,” alludes Ogola.
Making plus size clothing is more complicated than extending sizes. More than 60 per cent women in the United States are a size 14 and up, but they continue to be underserved. Women are having a hard time identifying their own body shape, which informs how they shop. Women often misidentify their body shape. They may consider themselves to be hourglass-shaped when they are not and are actually pear-shaped. This discrepancy happens because of the way brands market and sell their clothing.
For many retailers, extended sizing means simply making straight-sized garments in larger sizes, a process that neglects the fact that women have different sizes and shapes. Of the 62,000 specialty stores in the US, only 2,000 of them focus on plus size women.
Plus size clothing sales represent around 17.5 per cent of all women’s clothing sales in the US. Plus size fashion is here to stay and has already conquered the hearts and budgets of many in the apparel industry. Spending on this niche is on the rise and so are the opportunities for retailers wanting to tap into the $46 billion opportunity. E-commerce contributes to the growth of plus size fashion primarily because of ease of access, size availability and convenience that it provides.
The Indian cotton spinning industry’s performance has been severely constrained in the current fiscal. Both revenues and operating profits of domestic spinners are likely to drop. Reasons include a demand slowdown, unfavorable raw material prices and rising funding requirements. While export volumes have seen some uptick in recent months, they remain lower than the levels seen in the preceding fiscal.
Significantly, the credit profile of spinners has weakened in recent quarters, with earnings from operations and liquidity position facing pressures in the first half of fiscal 2020, amid rising debt levels. The scenario is quite similar to fiscal 2012, when cotton prices fell sharply, resulting in high inventory losses and tight cash flows for spinners. The impact on debt-coverage metrics and liquidity is expected to be more adverse for leveraged companies that have undertaken a sizeable debt-funded capital expansion in recent years and have higher repayments scheduled.
So, spinners expect that the overall fiscal ’20 performance will be weighed down by the tepid volumes and weak earnings seen so far. A revenue de-growth of around six per cent is expected for spinners due to weak export demand amid increasing competition from other countries and sluggishness in domestic consumption levels.
Mehdi Benabadji is the new CEO of Brioni, the Italian luxury menswear couture house a part of the French luxury group Kering. Benabadji joins Brioni with a wealth of experience. Since 2003, he has held a series of operational and executive positions within Kering. Most recently, he was chief operations officer, in charge of the group’s logistics and industrial activities. Benabadji began his career as a consultant in 1995, before joining Kering eight years later. He was previously director of strategy and development of the house after its acquisition by Kering in 2011. His mission now will be to consolidate the repositioning of Brioni and to support its international development.
Brioni was founded in 1945. All products are made in Italy and meticulously handcrafted by expert artisans. The house is revered for its personalised bespoke approach. Its product range comprises all categories of men’s apparel and accessories, including shoes, leather goods, jewelry, eyewear and fragrances. Brioni has the potential to redefine its position as a unique luxury brand. The house’s philosophy is based on a pioneering approach to menswear. Suits of this high-end Italian brand retail in the thousands of euros. The brand has a distinct identity, and is known for its sartorial values and pioneering heritage.
