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Hosiery and textile industrialists in Ludhiana recently held a demonstration outside the Knitwear Club Office to protest against the growing threat to the domestic industry. Specifically targeting garments imports from Turkey and Bangladesh, these protestors highlighted the perceived lack of solidarity of these nations with India during its recent conflict with Pakistan.
The anger of these protestors stemmed not only from the economic threat posed by imports but also from Turkey and Bangladesh's stance during the India-Pakistan conflict, despite India having provided humanitarian aid to Turkey during its devastating earthquake in February 2023, said Vinod Thapar, Chairman, Knitwear Club.
Industrialists pointed out, garment imports from Bangladesh are duty-free under the South Asian Free Trade Area (SAFTA), making them cheaper due to lower labor costs. They also accused many Turkish brands of routing products through Bangladesh to avoid duties, further harming the local industry. This misuse of trade agreements is damaging Ludhiana’s textile ecosystem, where many units are struggling to survive, stated Sudarshan Jain, Knitwear and Apparel Manufacturers Association of Ludhiana (KAMAL).
Large Indian retail chains continue to stock garments from these countries, disregarding their geopolitical stance and the adverse impact on Indian businesses, he added.
With 12,000 textile and hosiery units employing over 500,000 people, Ludhiana's industry contributes an estimated Rs 40,000 crore annually to the domestic market and Rs 5,000 crore in exports. Facing rising imports, industry leaders are not only calling for a boycott of products from Turkey and Bangladesh but also urging citizens to refrain from leisure travel to Turkey and prioritize Indian-made brands.
Rising demand is expected to drive the cotton sewing thread market in the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region to grow at a CAGR of 1.7 per cent and a value of $163 million by 2035.
In 2024, consumption of cotton sewing thread in the MENA region declined by 6.9 per cent approximately 12,000 tons, yet overall consumption has remained relatively flat. The consumption volume peaked at 16,000 tons in 2018 before settling at a lower figure from 2019 to 2024. The market value contracted by 26.7 per cent to $135 million in 2024 from the previous year. While overall consumption value had shown buoyant expansion historically, it peaked at $275 million in 2021 before declining to lower figures from 2022 to 2024.
Turkey, Saudi Arabia, and Israel emerged as the leading consumers of cotton sewing thread in in 2024, collectively accounting for 73 per cent of the total volume. Saudi Arabia exhibited the most significant growth among major consumers from 2013 to 2024, with a CAGR of +9.9 per cent. In terms of value, Turkey led with $79 million, followed by Saudi Arabia, and the Syrian Arab Republic.
Production of cotton sewing thread declined by 7.1 per cent to 12,000 tons in 2024 in the MENA region, maintaining a relatively flat trend overall. However, in value terms, production decreased to $131 million in 2024. Turkey, Saudi Arabia, and Israel emerged as the top producers in 2024, representing 80 per cent of total production. Saudi Arabia also recorded the largest production growth rate, with a CAGR of +12.6 per cent from 2013 to 2024.
Imports of cotton sewing thread declined by 10.2 per cent to 1.5000 tons in 2024, marking a deep setback. In value terms, imports decreased to $12 milllion in 2024 from $31 million in 2013. Tunisia, Iran, and Algeria emerged as the largest importers in 2024.
Exports of cotton sewing thread from MENA decreased by 15.9 per cent to 669 tons in 2024. In value terms, exports significantly reduced to $5.1 million in 2024. Turkey was the primary exporter, accounting for 58 per cent of total exports, followed by Egypt and the United Arab Emirates. Morocco demonstrated the fastest export growth with a CAGR of +12.9 per cent from 2013 to 2024.
German startup eeden secured €18 million in a Series A funding round to construct a plant in Munster to help recover pure cellulose and PET monomers from cotton-polyester textile waste, The company plans to also use these funds to establish commercial projects with key players across the textile industry.
Highlighting the potential of their solution, Steffen Gerlach, CEO and Co-founder, eeden states, over the past few years, the company has developed a proven solution with a potential to meet the industry’s long-term need for cost-efficient and high-performing circular materials.
Supported by both new and existing investors, the company plans to expand this technology to transform textile waste into valuable materials, he adds.
The funding round was led by Forbion, a prominent Dutch venture capital firm, through its BioEconomy Fund. New investors Henkel Ventures and NRW.Venture, the venture fund of North Rhine-Westphalia’s development bank, also participated. Notably, all existing investors chose to reinvest in this round, signaling strong confidence in eeden's capabilities.
Praising the pioneering solution, Alex Hoffmann, General Partner, Forbion, says, it promises to make large-scale textile recycling not only technologically feasible, but also commercially viable in the near future. He conveyed support to the eeden's team as they expand this breakthrough technology to an industrial level.
The racks of fast fashion outlets and the digital storefronts showcasing the latest apparel trends mask a change occurring behind the scenes. For decades, the mantra of sourcing has been simple: chase the lowest cost. But that era is drawing to a close. Today, the intricate play of global supply chains is increasingly dictated not by price tags, but by political fault lines. Sourcing is no longer a mere supply chain decision; it has morphed into a high-stakes geopolitical chess game where brands, in their pursuit of affordable production, now find themselves navigating a treacherous minefield of diplomatic flashpoints. The chilling question echoing through boardrooms and sourcing offices is: how long before geopolitical risk eclipses even the sacrosanct metrics of price and capacity in the vendor selection process?
The apparel industry in Asia, long the main stay of global fashion, is grappling with a reality far more complex than predicting next season’s hemlines. Tariffs, trade disputes, and unilateral political decisions are no longer abstract threats; they are tangible disruptions reshaping the very fabric of how and where brands procure their goods.
US as a major shuffling force
The Trump administration’s tariff imposition Chinese goods have acted as a major catalyst, forcing a widespread reshuffling of global sourcing strategies. These tariffs, initiated in 2018, targeted a wide range of products, including apparel and textiles, with the explicit aim of encouraging domestic production and altering trade balances. However, the primary outcome for the apparel sector has been a significant push towards diversification of sourcing away from China.
As per the United States International Trade Commission (USITC), the share of apparel imports from China into the US has seen a noticeable decline in recent years.
Table: China’s apparel exports to the US
|
Year |
Share of US apparel imports from China |
Source |
|
2015 |
38.20% |
USITC DataWeb |
|
2020 |
31.90% |
USITC DataWeb |
|
2023 |
28.50% |
USITC DataWeb |
This data clearly indicates a downward trend in reliance on China as a primary apparel sourcing destination for the US market. However, this shift has created ripple effects across other Asian manufacturing hubs. Countries like Vietnam and India, often touted as alternative sourcing destinations, have seen an increase in demand, leading to infrastructure bottlenecks, labor shortages, and ultimately, increased costs and longer lead times. This highlights the interconnectedness of global supply chains and the challenges of rapidly shifting sourcing strategies.
Negotiating a minefield of geopolitical flashpoints
The pursuit of alternative sourcing, a direct response to tariff pressures, has led to a new some geopolitical complexities. India’s reported disruptions to Bangladeshi access to key ports for third-country trans-shipment, shows how regional political decisions can have a major consequences for international supply chains. These disruptions impact lead times and increase transportation costs for apparel brands sourcing from Bangladesh, a major global garment producer.
Similarly, Vietnam's growing scrutiny over the potential re-routing of Chinese goods to evade US tariffs adds another layer of risk. While specific data on the volume of such re-routed goods is difficult to ascertain publicly, the increased vigilance from customs authorities in both the US and Vietnam creates uncertainty and potential compliance risks for apparel exporters and their international buyers. Brands now face the added burden of ensuring the true origin of their goods to avoid penalties and reputational damage.
The ban on Xinjiang cotton in several Western countries, due to ethical concerns, has further complicated sourcing decisions. This has mandated stringent traceability requirements, forcing brands to go beyond basic supplier information and ensure transparency from the fiber level upwards.
Reports suggest an increase in auditing expenses and the need for sophisticated supply chain management systems. Organizations like the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) are playing a crucial role in establishing traceability standards, though challenges in verifying the origin of cotton remain.
The recent Red Sea crisis, triggered by geopolitical instability in the Middle East, has laid bare the vulnerability of global logistics. Data from maritime shipping companies and trade publications indicates a significant increase in shipping times and costs for goods destined for Europe. For example, Maersk reported in early 2024 an estimated 10-15 day increase in transit times for vessels rerouting around the Cape of Good Hope, along with substantial surcharges on shipments. This directly impacts apparel brands with European markets, leading to delays in product availability and increased operational expenses.
A reassessment of priorities
These geopolitical headwinds are forcing a fundamental reassessment of sourcing priorities. While cost remains a critical consideration, the tangible and potential costs associated with geopolitical instability – tariffs, shipping disruptions, compliance risks, and reputational damage – are increasingly factoring into decision-making processes.
Table: Shifting weighting of sourcing factors
|
Factor |
Pre-2018 (estimated) |
Current (Early 2025, estimated) |
Trend |
Influencing geopolitical events |
|
Price |
65% |
40-45% |
Decreasing |
US-China Tariffs, Increased Logistics Costs |
|
Capacity |
20% |
15-20% |
Decreasing |
Diversification pressures leading to bottlenecks elsewhere |
|
Lead Time |
10% |
15-20% |
Increasing |
Port disruptions, Red Sea crisis, longer alternative routes |
|
Geopolitical Risk |
<5% |
15-20% |
Increasing |
US-China Tariffs, Regional political instability, Trade disputes |
|
Compliance/Ethics |
<1% |
5-10% |
Increasing |
Xinjiang cotton ban, increased consumer awareness |
The above table, based on industry reports and expert opinions underscores the growing recognition that a purely cost-centric approach to sourcing is no longer sustainable in the face of increasing geopolitical volatility.
Resilience as the new competitive imperative
The evidence clearly suggests that geopolitical risk is fast becoming a primary filter in vendor selection, potentially even eclipsing traditional metrics like price and capacity. Brands that fail to proactively address these challenges risk significant disruptions to their supply chains, increased costs, and potential reputational damage.
The ability to build resilient and agile supply chains – characterized by diversification, risk assessment, and strong supplier relationships – will be the defining competitive advantage in the years to come. This requires a shift from simply seeking the cheapest production to prioritizing long-term stability and the ability to adapt to an increasingly complex and unpredictable global landscape. The geopolitical chess game is underway, and only those brands that can master its intricate moves will secure their position in the future of apparel sourcing.
New venue and format signal fresh start for Japan’s textile industry
The inaugural edition of Tokyo Textile Scope (TTS), organised by the Japan Fashion Week Organization (JFWO), concluded on May 16 with a successful three-day run at its new venue the Tokyo Metropolitan Industrial Trade Center Hamamatsucho-Kan. The event marked a strategic transformation from earlier iterations such as "Premium Textile Japan" (PTJ) and "JFW Japan Creation" (JFW-JC), now consolidated into a single comprehensive platform. The venue shift from the Tokyo International Forum and the extension of the event duration from two to three days were welcomed changes, reflecting JFWO’s commitment to innovation and evolution.
The new format was introduced in line with JFWO's 20th anniversary a timely milestone to launch a reimagined trade fair. The revamped event drew 83 exhibitors, an increase of about 20 per cent from PTJ’s previous spring edition. Among them were nine first-time participants, including four overseas companies making their Japan trade show debut, reflecting growing international interest. The visitor count also rose by 20 per cent, underscoring the show’s increased appeal. Organisers attributed this success to their philosophy of ‘constantly taking on new challenges’ and embracing change rather than repeating established formats.
Showcasing regional excellence and future innovations
A key highlight of TTS was the new ‘Focus on Textile Regions’ programme, which spotlighted Japan’s heritage in textile production. Based on insights from international luxury brands, the first instalment centred on denim a staple of Japanese textile excellence. Visitors experienced a virtual tour of denim factories through VR goggles, allowing them to immerse themselves in the production process, regardless of their geographical constraints. This novel approach received enthusiastic feedback and demonstrated how technology can bridge the gap between tradition and modernity.
Another new feature was the ‘What’s Next Scope’, a corner dedicated to innovation. It showcased emerging topics like Solament, a patented high-tech material by Sumitomo Metal Mining, and explored the role of Generative AI in fashion's future. The adjacent ‘What’s Next Seminar’ series featured five dynamic sessions, including ‘Scope on Denim: The Present and Future of Japan’s Denim Production Regions’ and a preview of ‘Premiere Vision Spring/Summer 2026 Fashion & Eco-Innovation.’ These sessions aimed to spark dialogue and encourage forward-thinking in the industry.
Sustainability and strategy take centre stage
The ‘What’s Next Textile’ exhibition, now in its fifth edition, featured 45 fabrics from 45 companies, drawing strong interest from buyers. Visitors were invited to vote for their favourite fabrics, which encouraged direct engagement and increased footfall at participating booths. Another continuing highlight was the ‘What’s Next Sustainable’ corner, which featured Mitsukoshi Isetan’s upcycling project ‘Peace de Mirai.’ These efforts reflect a broader industry trend: a shift from mere scale to meaningful storytelling and strategic content delivery.
As JFWO looks ahead, its focus remains on refining presentation techniques and enriching the visitor experience. With aspirations to rival international events like Premiere Vision in France and Milano Unica in Italy, TTS is poised to become a global textile hub. The next editions are scheduled for November 12–14, 2025, and April and October 2026, all at the same venue, signalling continuity and a strong foundation for future growth.
Bestseller is set to make a dynamic return to Copenhagen this August for CIFF 65, reaffirming its commitment to the Scandinavian fashion scene with a standout presence in Hall C Marking its third consecutive season at the fair, the Danish fashion group will spotlight six of its trend-forward brands: Pieces, Noisy May, JJXX, Object, Rouge Edit, and Y A S.
The curated collections will be revealed through immersive displays and engaging brand experiences, transforming Hall C into a high-energy space that fuses creativity with commerce. Bestseller’s return is expected to be a key highlight of CIFF 65, helping to shape upcoming seasonal trends and positioning the company as a central figure in Nordic fashion innovation.
Lars Pedersen, Regional Director and Executive Team Member at Bestseller, emphasized the importance of CIFF to the company’s European strategy, noting that it remains the only trade fair where Bestseller invests at such a scale. “It’s a strategic platform where we connect with partners, share our brand stories, and show our long-term commitment to this region,” he said.
CIFF Director Sofie Dolva welcomed the continued collaboration, highlighting the energy and innovation Bestseller brings to the event. “Their activation of space and ideas contributes to the fair’s creative and commercial pulse,” she said.
The partnership between CIFF and Bestseller reflects a shared vision to elevate the Nordic fashion community, offering a platform where inspiration, industry dialogue, and business growth converge under one roof.
Zalando has become an official member of Fair Wear, reinforcing its commitment to improving working conditions within its private label supply chain. The move marks a major step in the online fashion platform’s sustainability journey, aligning with global calls for greater accountability and systemic change in the fashion industry.
Fair Wear is a renowned multi-stakeholder organisation working to enhance labour rights across international supply chains. Zalando’s membership focuses specifically on its private label products, aiming to implement high standards of human rights due diligence and create real impact for garment workers.
“Zalando’s membership shows they’re committed to due diligence in their supply chain at a high-quality level, with actual impact for the people making our clothes,” said Alexander Kohnstamm, Director of External Affairs at Fair Wear.
Zalando's Sustainability Director, Pascal Brun, welcomed the partnership, emphasising that Fair Wear’s accountability framework complements Zalando’s values. The collaboration also provides access to tools like Fair Wear’s Human Rights Due Diligence (HRDD) Academy, which supports brands in developing effective practices to address labour rights challenges.
Beyond its private labels, Zalando is also encouraging partner brands on its retail platform to improve their own HRDD practices, fostering a ripple effect across the broader fashion ecosystem.
Fair Wear views Zalando’s membership as a catalyst for industry-wide collaboration and learning. As more fashion companies face pressure to act responsibly, Zalando’s decision signals a growing momentum toward ethical, transparent, and worker-centric supply chains.
Colombia’s leading fashion textile group, Manufacturas Eliot, has partnered with Coats Digital to implement VisionPLM a product lifecycle management solution designed specifically for the fashion industry. The move marks a strategic milestone in Eliot’s digital transformation journey, aimed at enhancing operational efficiency, boosting collaboration, and accelerating speed to market across its portfolio of brands: Patprimo, Seven Seven, Ostu, and Atmos.
Founded in 1957, Manufacturas Eliot produces over 20 million garments annually through its vertically integrated operations. The group is widely recognised for its commitment to accessible, high-quality fashion and is continuously investing in technologies that support sustainable, future-ready operations.
VisionPLM will centralise design, sourcing, and supplier collaboration into a single platform, offering greater traceability, faster development cycles, and more informed decision-making. This integrated solution is expected to streamline product development, cut response times, and strengthen communication across cross-functional teams.
Juliana Pérez, Design Director at Seven Seven, said the new system will allow design teams to manage collections more efficiently and enhance inter-departmental collaboration. Planning Director Angela Quevedo added that VisionPLM will improve information flow, boost operational coordination, and enable quicker decisions across the supply chain.
Oscar González of Coats Digital - LATAM noted that the deployment of VisionPLM reflects Eliot’s commitment to building a connected, agile operation that aligns with the fast-evolving demands of the global fashion market. He emphasized that the platform empowers Eliot to make smarter, faster decisions, reinforcing its strategy for innovation and long-term growth.
The 17th edition of HGH India, the country’s premier bi-annual trade show for home textiles, furniture, decor, houseware, and gifts, will take place from July 1–4, 2025, at the Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai. With a renewed focus on sustainability and innovation, the event aims to reflect the evolving needs of the Indian home and lifestyle sector.
Organised by Texzone, HGH India has consistently served as a future-oriented platform, offering not just sourcing opportunities but also fostering industry dialogue, trend discovery, and knowledge sharing. The 2025 edition embraces sustainability as a central theme, featuring eco-conscious products such as biodegradable tableware, organically dyed textiles, recycled mattresses, and upcycled décor.
This year’s show will host over 700 Indian and international brands from 32 countries, including 100 new exhibitors, showcasing 2,500+ products across four halls. With over 45,000 expected trade visitors from 650 Indian cities and 33 countries, the event reflects the growing purchasing power and design awareness of Indian consumers.
HGH India’s curated experiences will include the Trends 2025–26 Pavilion themed “Emotion in Motion,” highlighting emerging colours, styles, and materials. The Gen Next Retail Leaders Forum will present insights from young designers under 30, while the H-Circle Product Innovation Awards will recognise sustainable and functional product innovations. The Indian Heritage Pavilion will connect traditional crafts with modern retail.
More than just a trade fair, HGH India creates a collaborative ecosystem for retailers, designers, manufacturers, importers, and policy influencers. It bridges general trade with modern retail and supports long-term growth in the home sector. As Indian homes continue to upgrade and consumer preferences shift toward value-driven and sustainable choices, HGH India remains a vital force in shaping industry direction.
Welspun Enterprises has approved the reappointment of Balkrishan Goenka as the company’s new Chairman (Executive)
The company has reappointed Goenka as a Whole-time Director for an additional one-year term, effective June 1, 2025, through May 31, 2026. He is not subject to retirement by rotation.
Similarly, it has reappointed Sandeep Garg as Managing Director for another one-year term, effective June 1, 2025, through May 31, 2026. However, he is subject to retirement by rotation.
As per Welspun Enterprises, neither Goenka nor Garg are directly related to other directors on the board, nor are they barred from serving as directors by any SEBI order or other regulatory authority.
A part of Welspun World, Welspun Enterprises is an infrastructure development firm that specializes in water, wastewater, and transportation projects.
