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Textiles

Textiles (135)

After a disappointing end to 2016 and a sluggish beginning to 2017, spinners in India are finally beginning to regain some optimism. They have been getting a steady stream of orders for the past five or six weeks and enquiries are on the rise.

Ring-spun and air-jet yarns are getting a lot of attention. Positions are beginning to get a little tight again. Orders for open end yarns, in general, are still a bit light, but are improving. Interest is particularly high in specific categories like organic products, fire retardant yarns and products used for filtering. As the oil industry continues to recover, these categories may continue to grow.

One area that has not revived much, however, is home furnishings. But even here spinners expect business to pick up substantially in the near future. Despite renewed optimism among spinners, there are still a few concerns. Pricing and margins top the list. They feel selling all the yarn they can make is of no use, if profits are low. Margins continue to be a lot thinner than they would like. Spinners are doing everything they can to keep prices as low as possible but in a lot of cases, they have to rely on value-added advantages to create differentiation — quality, delivery and service.

New manufacturing yarn processes and finishes are pushing towards a more sustainable delivery with a reduction of water. The textile industry uses billions of liters of water throughout all processing from dyeing to specialty chemical finishes that are applied to textiles in water baths to scouring, bleaching and softening. Through the Detox campaign Greenpeace has highlighted the damage of water pollution and use from the textile chain has had on the environment.

Greenpeace is campaigning to stop industry poisoning our water with hazardous, persistent and hormone-disrupting chemicals and the textile industry is embracing change in eco-friendly chemical use as well as water conservation. The importance of sustainability was featured at ISPO Texttrends in February and is now become a custom than a passing fad as the textile industry looks to new processes in reducing water and energy.

Textile manufacturer Schoeller and auxiliaries and dyes specialists at Textilcolor have developed Ecodye, a new auxiliary concept used, in particular, in polyester dyeing processes. The technology accelerates the dyeing process and contributes to cutting costs, while at the same time helping to preserve the environment with a low level of demand on resources. Ecodye also improves the dyeing levelness in polyester textiles. Spots and dye agglomeration are almost completely avoided, and the precipitation on the goods that arises as a result of polyester oligomers are no longer evident. On the other hand Ecodye provides good shade stability and avoids reproduction problems from batch to batch, reducing the rate of double staining and increasing the capacity utilization and productivity of the dyeing mill on a long-term basis.

SpinDye, which is a new company exhibits at ISPO this year, the company offers a different approach in the production of synthetics, in particular nylon and polyester. Final laundering of fabrics is becoming a process of the past. An innovative collaboration held at the recent Kingpins Show in Amsterdam for denim highlighted the company’s technology in this area, in creating finishes that have now water or chemicals involved. The Laser Blaze machine creates graphics on surfaces using light, whilst NoStone is a system that create stonewash effects with the use of pumice stones through ozone finishing.

Italian company specialising in high-end fabrics Brugnoli, has launched a new high-quality, zero-kilometer fabric line based on recycled yarn called B.Recycled. In order to guarantee fabrics with exceptional quality and undisputed performance, Brugnoli has a partnership with the Italian company Fulgar.

This zero-kilometer product line means the supply chain is monitored and certified throughout. The creation of B.Recycled by Brugnoli starts with a raw material recycling process carried out entirely at Fulgar laboratories and mills. Work then continues at the Brugnoli plant, where all the fabrics are created, produced and dyed in the same location.

In 2015 Brugnoli broke new ground with the launch of its Br4 technology for the creation of bio-based fabrics. The eco-sustainable production process enables the creation of extremely high-quality fabrics made using Evo by Fulgar, a bio-based yarn obtained from castor bean. Evo by Fulgar is an eco-friendly yarn that aims to provide total comfort and technical performance combined with light weight, stretch, breathability and fast drying, plus naturally thermo regulating and bacterio static properties.

 

Italian premium denim manufacturer Italdenim participated in the latest edition of Kingpins Amsterdam through a new company founded in December 2016, Pure Denim. And Gigi Caccia, Co-owner of Italdenim and Pure Denim along with Ilaria explains they strongly believe in the importance of sustainable denim production. He further explains in the last few years the company had to fight against aggressive low-price competitors and indebtedness caused by strong investment in adequate machinery following new sustainable productive standards.

The Caccia brothers want to rescue Italdenim, the company that continues producing denim for their group. Their aim is to once again touch their yearly target of making 8 million meter denim. Caccia further adds the company believes in the importance of sustainable production. During Kingpins, they showcased a completely new denim collection produced as per new smart and environmentally-friendly techniques.

Among the new environmentally-friendly products offered by the new company, was ‘Smart Denim’, a light gray denim that employs an innovative dyeing technique that uses only recycled graphite combined with Kitosan yarn, a bio-based finishing substance derived from crustaceous skin, that requires nor water nor chemicals when finishing denim.

The graphite-based dyeing technique was developed by WRAD a company co-founded by Matteo Ward, visionary entrepreneur sensitive to sustainable issues and involved in recycling graphite remains from industrial use in partnership with Perpetua, a pencil brand that is 100 per cent made with recycled graphite.

Gigi Caccia further said they believe recycling graphite for dyeing denim, like every new eco-friendly denim technology is the beginning of a new revolution in this market one can compare it to the birth of electric car in the car industry.

The 10th International Pakistan Textile Machinery and Garment Technology (IGATEX) 2017 exhibition opened its doors at the Karachi Expo Centre today. Exhibitors and organisers are optimistic about achieving their targets as more than 550 international and local manufacturers of textile machinery and technology from 35 countries are showcasing their latest products at the four-day exhibition.

There are 73 companies from Italy, 70 from Germany, 50 from China, 25 from Turkey and 80 from the host country Pakistan displaying their latest products. The highlight of this exhibition is some 20 companies from India are also participating through their representatives.

Pakistan is in a dire need of modern technology which is lacking in the frontline business. The country is lacking in modern technology which is causing an imbalance in garment industry, the recent example is Bangladesh although a cotton deficit country did trade worth $35billion in the last year.

The maiden IGATEX in 2002, had around 200 companies despite the threat of terror attacks and lack of law and order at that time and the number has increased to 550 in 2017.

Pakistan wants JVs with China

Pakistan’s textile industry wants Chinese investment. The hope is to enter into successful joint ventures to benefit from each others’ entrepreneurial potential. The two countries are planning to enter into joint ventures for 1,00,000 spindles, 500 airjet looms and fabric dyeing and printing plants in Pakistan.

Chinese companies are looking mainly at the cement, steel, energy and textile sectors, the backbone of Pakistan’s economy. Chinese firms are eager to expand abroad at a time when growth has slowed at home. Pakistan has offered a package to the exporting industry with an added attraction of 12 to 15 per cent for producing and manufacturing in Pakistan.

To ease the cost of doing business, the country has announced an export-led growth package encompassing provision of drawback of local taxes and levies at four per cent on yarn and greig fabric, five per cent on processed fabric, six per cent on textile made ups, seven per cent on textile garments against realisation of exports.

The foreign investment policy offers zero per cent duty on imports of capital goods, zero per cent corporate income tax rate, 10 years’ corporate income tax holiday, 50 acres minimum land required for special economic zones and permission of 100 per cent private ownership.

Mimaki will participate at Texprocess and Techtextil, Germany, May 9 to 12, 2017. The manufacturer of wide-format inkjet printers and cutting systems will showcase its TS300P-1800 with sublimation inks and the Tx300P-1800 printer with pigment inks during the large-format inkjet printing step of the micro-factory, involving sublimation printing on polyester and pigment printing on cotton and mixed fibers.

Both have been developed for the textile print industry. The TS300P-1800 wide format, high-speed dye sublimation textile printer delivers cost-effective printing while maintaining high quality and productivity and is designed to print onto the thinnest of transfer paper. The Tx300P-1800 direct textile inkjet printer delivers high-quality printing on a wide range of textiles and is ideally suited for applications such as fashion, furnishing, soft signage and exhibitions.

Texprocess serves the international garment-manufacturing and textile processing industry while Techtextil brings together technical textiles and nonwovens showing the full range of potential uses of textile technologies. The events will allow Mimaki to demonstrate its textile inkjet print technologies and educate a wide audience. There will be a roundtable discussion on high speed dye sublimation printing which will explain the difference between sublimation transfer and direct dye sublimation printing, and how each technology can be beneficial for home textiles and interior design.

 

Soorty Denim, a well know integrated denim manufacturer from Pakistan, has been given the Hightex innovation award for its new Denim Active concept at the Keyhouse event, during Munich Fabric Start last month. The new concept dims the border between casual wear and sportswear, linking the two lifestyles.

“Denim Active” contains Coolmax eco-made® fiber which ensures moisture management and is made from 97 per cent recycled resources such as plastic bottles. While working out, body temperature increases, Coolmax helps to evaporate sweat, it keeps cool and dry. The 360 degree stretch in a light weight fabric allows one to make free body movements. Denim Active is soft and comfortable yet still maintains the actual denim look and feel in a specially engineered second skin silhouette.

The new Keyhouse is a revolution and proficiency centre for textiles, presenting future-oriented and business-related concepts in a concentrated manner. This collaborating trade fair format forms a backdrop for smart textiles, future fabrics and technologies, with a high degree of integration in textile products and high fashion. Pioneering showcases, sustainability and new technologies are put in the spotlight in this trade fair area in the context of cross-sector macro trends, rounded off by expert workshops and seminars on trends, technology, finishing and research.

With the segment proving to be resilient amid the country's challenging retail environment due to shifting consumer behaviour and preferences for more differentiated shopping concepts, China's sportswear industry should see continued expansion over the next few years, says the Fitch Ratings.

Following the issues of store overexpansion and excess inventory having been resolved since 2012Both international and domestic brands have benefited from the expansion of China's sportswear industry which Fitch accredits to increased investment and higher sports participation.

The State Council aims to develop China's sports industry to CNY5 trillion by 2025 and increase the area available for practising sports. Greater interest in fitness and sports has also become more apparent with more people taking an interest in running, for instance that a total of 328 marathons were registered through the Chinese Athletic Association in 2016.

This attracted approximately 2.8 million participants, and representing an increase of 85 per cent compared with the previous year. Likewise, according to a news report the number of participants at private gyms across China's 70 major cities has increased by 4 to 5 million each year since 2011.

The China market is led by international brands adidas and Nike. While adidas reported over 20% constant currency growth for China in 2016, Nike also saw double digit growth in Greater China.

However, Fitch believes local brands can also benefit, since they offer consumers a competitive value-for-money proposition. For instance, local brand 361 Degrees International Limited (BB/Stable) saw over 7 per cent y-o-y same-store sales growth in 2016 and its trade-fair orders for 3Q17 achieved a high single-digit increase.

Linking their efforts to the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), as many as seventy one companies have got themselves up to the mark and put their names forward for benchmarking against their peers and competitors in the Textile Exchange Preferred Fibre & Materials (PFM) Benchmark programme.

61 per cent of companies have set targets for switching to a more sustainable source of cotton, three quarters having a specific target for organic.

Said Liesl Truscott, Materials Strategy Director for Textile Exchange, millions of people including cotton farmers, foresters and other textile feedstock providers form the base of the textile supply network and are impacted by the decisions brands and retailers make every day. Influencing improvement in fibre and material production is one of the greatest opportunities textile brands and retailers can contribute to securing a sustainable future.

Preferred is another way of saying more sustainable. Textile Exchange defines a preferred fibre or material (PFM) as one that is ecologically and socially progressive and has been selected because it has more sustainable properties in comparison to conventional options.

The mix of fibres in your product range can be just as important as the sustainability profile of each fiber,” Truscott added.

Textile Exchange recommends a portfolio approach building a suite of preferred fibre and materials from a choice of preferred options by way of the consideration of impacts and product range priorities. The goal is that PFMs are produced to a globally accepted standard, with strict criteria that qualifies the product as preferred, and can be traced through the supply chain.

One of the partnership is with the Appachi ECO-LOGIC Cotton Project in India which brings together a value chain from the farmers to the customers. The key is the partnership and working together – and we see this as pivotal for the entire industry. Seventy one companies, up from 57 last year, ranging from Adidas to Woolworths, completed a bespoke online survey and have received confidential company feedback reports revealing their individual results.An Industry report containing the combined results of all participating companies will be released this week.

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