FW
Pakistan’s textile exports rose by 8.41 per cent to $14,834.390 million during the first ten months spanning July-April 2024-25 as against $13, 683.247 million during the same period in 2023-24, as per a report by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS).
During this period, Pakistan’s knitwear exports increased by 15.47 per cent to $4,118.227 million as against $3,566.624 million in the corresponding period last year. Bed wear exports by the country rose by 12.18 per cent to $2,569.214 million from $2,290.796 million.
Exports of other commodities including towels grew by 4.49 per cent to $903.331 million from $864.547 million. Meanwhile, exports of tents, canvas, and tarpaulin exports increased by 11.65 per cent to $109.002 million from $97.632 million. Readymade garments exports increased by 17.52 per cent to $3,394.188 million this year, compared to $2,888.177 million last year.
Similarly, exports of art, silk, and synthetic textiles grew by 9.74 per cent to $330.862 million from $301.496 million. Made-up articles (excluding towels and bed wear) exports increased by 9.10 per cent to $642.646 million from $589.025 million, while exports of other textile materials rose by 2.59 per cent to $610.866 million from $595.431 million.
However, exports of textile commodities including raw cotton plummeted by 98.45 per cent to $0.871 million from $56.086 million. Likewise, cotton yarn exports declined by 31.91 per cent to $576.016 million from $845.923 million, while exports of cotton carded or combed plunged by 99.28 per cent from $0.837 million to $0.006 million during the review period.
On a Y-o-Y basis, Pakistan’s textile exports decreased by 1.35 per cent to $1,220.655 million in April 2025 from $1,237.313 million in April 2024. On a month-over-month (M-o-M) basis, textile exports declined by 14.64 per cent in April 2025 compared to $1,430.003 million in March 2025, according to PBS data.
Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) with two institutions; DigiProd Pass and Digital Architect to introduce blockchain-enabled Digital Product Passport (DPP) systems in the Bangladeshi garment industry.
This initiative marks a major step forward in the industry’s commitment to transparency, sustainability, and alignment with international regulatory standards, according to BGMEA.
The MoU was signed by Anwar Hossain, Administrator, BGMEA; Salauddin Sohag, Managing Director, DigiProd Pass and Dr Fahim Chowdhury, CEO, Digital Architect and Technovative Solutions.
The 24-month pilot project involves onboarding of selected garment manufacturers by BGMEA and coordinating data provision and integration support. The technical development and implementation of the DPP platform will be led by DigiProd Pass, while Digital Architect will serve as the local technology partner, delivering services such as Life Cycle Assessment (LCA), data collection, system deployment, training, and integration.
The pilot initiative seeks to evaluate the feasibility of designing, developing, and implementing a Digital Product Passport (DPP) - a digital tool aimed at enhancing traceability and accountability throughout the garment value chain. By capturing and sharing verified data on a product’s lifecycle, environmental footprint, and sustainability performance, the DPP is positioned to strengthen Bangladesh’s competitive edge in the global apparel market.
The urgency of this pilot project is highlighted by the fact that a very significant percentage (almost 60 per cent) of Bangladesh’s garment exports are destined for the European market, making the EU the country’s single largest apparel market. As compliance with evolving EU standards has become extremely essential, DPP is a fundamental requirement under the EU’s Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). Adopted by the European Parliament in April 2024, DPP’s phased implementation will begin in 2026. This legislation will mandate that textile and other high-impact products entering the EU market carry a digital passport containing data on sustainability, durability, and environmental impact.
For Bangladesh, which is the second-largest garment exporter globally, embracing the DPP now is a strategic move to safeguard and secure its future access to the EU market.
This pilot project’s core objectives include evaluating the technical and operational viability of the DPP system, fostering transparency and traceability in garment production, supporting compliance with sustainability and regulatory standards, and training relevant stakeholders while assessing the system’s potential for broader industry-wide adoption.
Crocs Inc has promoted Terence Reilly to the role of Executive Vice President, Chief Brand Officer, effective immediately.
In this newly created position, Reilly will oversee the marketing and communications functions for both the Crocs and HeyDude brands. He will continue to report to Andrew Rees, CEO while collaborating with Anne Mehlman, Executive Vice President, Brand President for Crocs, as well as HeyDude brand leadership.
According to the Colorado-based company, Rees will serve as the interim president for the HeyDude brand alongside the brand's senior leadership team until a permanent structure is announced.
A seasoned brand expert, Reilly is renowned for its ability to build brands’ identities, connect them with relevant cultures, and foster consumer engagement and loyalty. Before rejoining Crocs in 2024, he served as president of drinkware firm Stanley Brand. Prior to his time at Stanley, Reilly was the Chief Marketing Officer at Crocs, Inc., holding various other marketing leadership roles from 2013 to 2020, after a career in senior-level marketing and leadership positions.
Since Terence rejoined Crocs, Inc. in 2024, the HeyDude brand has seen significant traction under his leadership. He has galvanized a team, sharpened the brand's strategic focus, and re-established authentic connections with its consumers, says Rees.
Earlier this month, driven by a rise in sales at its flagship brand, Crocs, Crocs Inc recorded a 1.4 per cent rise in revenue during Q1, FY25. However, this revenue growth was partially offset by the sales of the casual footwear brand HeyDude,whose revenues declined by 9.8 per cent to $176 million.
Reduced output in Maharashtra has led to the Cotton Association of India (CAI) downgrading its domestic production estimate for the 2024-25 season by 400,000 bales (each weighing 170 kg) to 29.13 million bales. This adjustment from the earlier projection of 29.53 million bales signals ongoing supply constraints.
The association estimates total cotton supply through the end of March to reach 30.683 million bales, which includes 2.5 million bales of imports and opening stocks of 3.019 million bales. As of March-end, stocks stood at 12.783 million bales, with 2.7 million bales held by mills and the remaining 10.083 million bales with the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI), Maharashtra Federation, and traders.
India's cotton imports are expected to more than double to 3.3 million bales, a significant increase from 1.52 million bales last season, amidst shrinking domestic production. Meanwhile, exports are projected to lower to 1.6 million bales, from 2.836 million bales in the previous season.
On the global front, the USDA reduced its world cotton production forecast by 69,000 bales due to lower output in Argentina and Cote d’Ivoire, despite increased production in China. Global consumption also saw a decline of 520,000 bales.
From a technical perspective, the market is experiencing short covering, with open interest decreasing by 5.82 per cent to 178. Support is identified at Rs 53,930, and a breach below this level could lead to a test of Rs 53,650.
US textile recycling company Circ plans to build the first of its kind facility to recover cotton and polyester from textile waste on an industrial scale. To be built with an investment of $500 million, the project will be supported by the French Government and the European Union.
To be located in Saint –Avold in Northeast France, the plant will begin operations in 2028 and process 70,000 metric tons of textile waste annually, creating 200 jobs.
The development will be funded through a combination of equity and debt. The €450 million ($504.09 million) plant will help secure grants and guarantees including the Strategic Projects Guarantee from the French state, says Peter Majeranowski, CEO.
According to Majeranowski, this plant will help EU create a ‘circular economy’ through increased recycling to reach its goal of net-zero emissions by 2050. It will be the world’s first industrial-scale polycotton recycling plant, he states.
According to a UN report, the fashion industry accounts for up to 10 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions and consumes more energy than the aviation and shipping industries combined. It's also a significant consumer and polluter of water.
A number of companies are developing technologies to recycle the millions of tons of polycotton waste generated each year. This comes amidst increasing demand from retailers eager to bolster their sustainability credentials and comply with stricter regulations.
Circ utilizes hydrothermal technology to break down polyester without harming the cotton, allowing both materials to be recovered and reused in the same process.
Clothing retailers Inditex and Patagonia have invested in Circ, and the company's recycled materials are already being used by brands such as Inditex-owned Zara.
Partners in the plant's construction include Worley, GEA, and Andritz. Circ aims to use this facility as a blueprint for future plants, notes Majeranowski. Metakeys: Circ, textile recycling plant, Saint-Avold, France,
Despite the narrative of a global apparel pivot away from China, the reality on the ground paints a different picture. Far from retreating, China is strategically leveraging a sophisticated web of state support to maintain and even enhance its formidable position in the global textile and apparel industry. This isn't merely about cheap labor; it's a calculated long-term strategy involving substantial financial steroids, upstream supply chain dominance, and a controversial yet integral role for regions like Xinjiang. The underlying goal is clear: to ensure the world continues to play on China's terms.
The Anatomy of Chinese Textile Subsidies: Breaking down the financial steroids
China's textile industry benefits from a multi-faceted approach to state support, effectively creating an environment where domestic producers can consistently undercut global competitors on price. These subsidies are not always direct cash handouts; they often manifest as a complex interplay of financial incentives and preferential policies.
Key forms of subsidies and their impact:
● VAT Export rebates: A significant portion of value-added tax (VAT) paid by Chinese textile manufacturers is rebated upon export. While the exact rebate percentages vary by product and policy, they serve as a substantial cost reduction mechanism for exporters.
● Subsidized energy and utilities: Chinese textile manufacturers often enjoy preferential rates for electricity, water, and other essential utilities. This lowers operational costs significantly, particularly for energy-intensive processes like dyeing and finishing.
● Free or heavily subsidized land: Local governments frequently offer free or extremely low-cost land leases to textile companies, especially in industrial zones designated for development.
● Cash grants and preferential loans: Direct cash grants are provided for technological upgrades, environmental compliance, and capacity expansion. State-owned banks offer preferential loans with lower interest rates and longer repayment periods.
● Infrastructure investment: The government invests heavily in infrastructure, including transportation networks, ports, and logistics hubs, further driving down supply chain costs for Chinese textile producers.
● Tax incentives: Beyond VAT rebates, various tax holidays, reduced corporate income tax rates, and other tax breaks are often extended to textile enterprises.
Case Study: Breaking the pricing inputs
Consider a scenario where a textile manufacturer in Bangladesh is calculating the cost of producing a cotton T-shirt. They must factor in the full market price for raw cotton, energy, land, and standard commercial loan rates. A Chinese competitor, however, benefits from:
● Raw material (Cotton): While China is a major cotton producer, the industry also imports. However, even domestically, cotton production in Xinjiang benefits from significant subsidies, including direct payments to farmers and incentives for cotton planting. This can depress the effective domestic price for mills.
● Energy costs: If the Bangladeshi manufacturer pays $0.12/kWh for electricity, the Chinese manufacturer might pay an effectively subsidized rate of $0.07/kWh. Over high-volume production, this translates into significant savings.
● Land costs: The Bangladeshi firm might incur a significant upfront cost for land acquisition or high rental fees. The Chinese firm might have acquired land for free or at a nominal cost, freeing up capital for other investments.
● Financing: A loan at 8% annual interest for the Bangladeshi firm could be a 3% or 4% loan for the Chinese firm, thanks to state-backed lending.
The table below provides a simplified and estimated breakdown for illustrative purposes.
|
Cost Component |
Estimated Cost for a Non-Chinese Manufacturer (USD/Unit) |
Estimated Cost Reduction/Benefit for a Chinese Manufacturer (USD/Unit) |
Estimated Effective Cost for a Chinese Manufacturer (USD/Unit) |
Explanation of Reduction/Benefit |
|
Raw Material (Cotton) |
0.8 |
-0.10 to -0.20 |
0.60 - 0.70 |
Subsidies for cotton farmers in China, particularly in Xinjiang |
|
Energy Costs (Electricity) |
0.15 |
-0.03 to -0.05 |
0.10 - 0.12 |
Preferential electricity rates,potential subsidies |
|
Land/Factory Rent |
0.1 |
-0.05 to -0.08 |
0.02 - 0.05 |
Free or heavily subsidized land lease, lower rental costs in government-designated industrial zones. |
|
Labor Costs |
0.3 |
(Relatively similar in some regions, but potential indirect benefits) |
0.28 - 0.30 (Note: Not a direct subsidy but part of overall cost structure) |
The overall lower cost of living and social welfare contributions can contribute to slightly lower effective labor costs in some areas. |
|
Financing Costs (Loan Interest) |
0.05 |
-0.01 to -0.02 |
0.03 - 0.04 |
Access to state-backed loans with lower interest rates |
|
VAT Export Rebate |
0.00 (not applicable) |
-0.10 to -0.13 (reduction upon export) |
-0.10 to -0.13 (net benefit) |
Rebate on theVAT paid during production |
|
Other Subsidies/Grants |
0.00 (not applicable) |
-0.02 to -0.05 |
-0.02 to -0.05 (net benefit) |
Direct cash grants for technological upgrades, environmental compliance, R&D, and operating in specific economic zones. |
|
Logistics & Infrastructure |
0.08 |
-0.01 to -0.02 (indirect benefit) |
0.06 - 0.07 |
Ports, transportation partly funded by the state |
|
Estimated Total Cost |
1.53 |
-0.32 to -0.55 (Net Reduction) |
0.98 - 1.21 |
This illustrative table demonstrates reduced/effective production cost for a Chinese textile manufacturer |
These combined advantages allow Chinese manufacturers to offer prices that are simply unsustainable for their global counterparts.
Upstream Dominance: The invisible hand of the supply chain
China's strategic genius extends beyond direct manufacturing subsidies to its formidable control of the upstream textile supply chain. Even if brands try to diversify their apparel production to countries like Vietnam or Bangladesh, they often remain reliant on Chinese-made yarns, fabrics, and specialized components.
This upstream dominance creates a dependency, allowing China to exert continued influence over global textile pricing, even for garments assembled elsewhere.
Xinjiang: A controversial locus of state-funded growth
The role of Xinjiang in China's textile strategy is particularly contentious. Despite international condemnation and bans due to allegations of forced labor, the region remains a cornerstone of China's cotton and textile production.
The U.S. Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) aims to block imports made with forced labor from Xinjiang. However, the pervasive nature of state-supported production in the region, coupled with the difficulty of auditing supply chains in such an environment, makes enforcement challenging.
Data Insights and trends:
We can observe overarching trends and historical patterns that underscore China's strategic approach.
Table 1: China's Textile & Garment Export Performance (Q1 2025 vs. Q1 2024)
|
Category |
Q1 2025 Export Value (Billion USD) |
Q1 2024 Export Value (Billion USD) |
YoY Growth (%) |
|
Total T&G Exports |
66.281 |
65.651 |
+0.95% |
|
Textile Exports |
33.269 |
32 |
+4.0% |
|
Garment Exports |
33.012 (estimated) |
33.651 (estimated) |
-1.90% |
Source: General Administration of Customs, China
This data for early 2025 indicates a slight overall increase in textile and garment exports, driven primarily by textile exports (yarn, fabric, etc.), while garment exports show a slight decline. This further supports the notion of China's focus on upstream dominance.
China's Broader Economic Strategy: Beyond textiles
China's textile strategy is an integral part of its larger economic game plan to maintain global competitiveness. The approach is multifaceted that includes initiatives such as "Made in China 2025" , "Industrial Foundation" and "Manufacturing Powerhouse" initiatives, Focus on Specialised SMEs ("Little Giants"), Export Diversification and Belt and Road Initiative (BRI), Strengthening State-Owned Enterprises (SOEs) and Resilient Cities and Infrastructure Investment
A game of enduring influence
China's strategy to keep its textile industry afloat, and indeed dominant, is a sophisticated and multi-pronged approach that goes far beyond mere competitive pricing. It's a testament to deep state involvement, strategic investment in the entire value chain, and a willingness to leverage controversial regions like Xinjiang for economic gain. While Western nations grapple with tariffs, incentive programs, and human rights concerns, China continues to solidify its position as the undisputed powerhouse of the global textile industry.
The question isn't whether China plays fair, but whether the rest of the world can afford to keep playing by rules that are increasingly skewed.
US Senators Sheldon Whitehouse (D-RI) and Lindsey Graham (R-SC) have introduced the Closing the De Minimis Loophole Act, bipartisan legislation aimed at ending a long-standing trade exemption that allows packages valued under $800 to enter the US without tariffs or inspection.
The legislation comes amid mounting concerns over illicit drugs, particularly fentanyl, entering the country through this loophole. Currently, millions of packages many from China bypass tariffs and full customs checks due to the ‘De Minimis’ threshold, creating vulnerabilities in the system.
“Given the explosion of e-commerce and the rise of complex global supply chains, this loophole must be closed to stop cartels and criminals from exploiting our customs system,” said Whitehouse. He emphasized that the bill will also protect domestic industries, including Rhode Island's textile sector, from unfair foreign competition.
Graham echoed these concerns, stating the measure will help curb the influx of illicit drugs and support manufacturers in his home state of South Carolina. “It’s about protecting Americans and ensuring fair competition,” he added.
The Closing the De Minimis Loophole Act would immediately eliminate de minimis treatment for shipments from China and phase out the exemption for other countries over a four-month period. During this time, the Treasury Secretary will initiate a rulemaking process to equip US Customs and Border Protection with effective enforcement tools and coordinate procedures with the Postal Service.
The legislation is endorsed by key industry and labor groups, including the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), United Steelworkers, and the National Association of Police Organizations. NCTO President Kim Glas hailed the bill as the “most comprehensive legislative solution” to a loophole that has allowed over 4 million unchecked packages into the U.S. daily, often containing goods made with forced labor.
Law enforcement and anti-drug advocacy groups also backed the bill, citing its potential to disrupt major fentanyl trafficking channels. Facing Fentanyl founder Andrea Thomas called the act “critical to stopping deadly shipments from entering our communities.”
The US textile industry employs nearly 471,000 workers and generates $64 billion annually. This legislation follows previous bipartisan efforts by Whitehouse and Graham to bolster trade law enforcement and customs modernization.
Expanding on the recent LinkedIn post by Lubomila Jordanova, CEO & Founder of Plan A and Co-Founder of Greentech Alliance, the fashion industry is grappling with the implications of ultra-fast fashion exemplified by companies like Shein. Jordanova's observation that Shein launched 1.3 million new designs in the past year has sparked a critical examination of its business model and its stark contrast with sustainable fashion practices. It has also started a crucial debate: Can speed and sustainability truly coexist within the fashion industry?
Shein’s business model, rooted in its Chinese operational core and a digitally integrated supply chain around Guangzhou, enables the rapid production and release of over 3,500 new styles daily. This "real-time retail" approach, driven by consumer data and agile manufacturing, stands in stark contrast to the principles of sustainability, which emphasize longevity, resource conservation, and ethical practices.
A Clash of Paradigms: Speed vs. Sustainability
The fundamental tension lies in the inherent characteristics of each approach. Speed, in the context of ultra-fast fashion, often necessitates compromises on material quality, production ethics, and environmental considerations to meet rapid turnaround times and low price points. Sustainability, conversely, demands a more deliberate and long-term perspective, prioritizing durable materials, fair labor, and minimizing environmental impact throughout the product lifecycle.
Cross-sectional views, for and against coexistence
Technological innovation: Some industry experts believe advancements in textile recycling technologies, on-demand manufacturing, and AI-driven design could potentially bridge the gap. For instance, companies are exploring methods to rapidly recycle textile waste back into new fibers, reducing the reliance on virgin resources even within a fast-paced system.
Data-driven demand forecasting: Proponents suggest that sophisticated data analytics could allow for more precise demand forecasting, minimizing overproduction even with frequent new releases. If production is truly aligned with real-time consumer needs, the argument goes, waste could be reduced.
Circular business models: The rise of rental platforms, resale markets, and repair services could extend the lifespan of garments, even those initially produced within a faster cycle. This shifts the focus from ownership to access and maximizes the utility of each item.
‘Slow fast fashion’: A nascent concept suggests a model where trend responsiveness is maintained, but with a greater emphasis on ethical sourcing, durable materials, and transparent supply chains, albeit potentially at a slightly higher price point than current ultra-fast fashion.
Against true coexistence
Inherent resource intensity: The very nature of rapid and massive production, even with some efficiency gains, requires significant energy, water, and raw materials. The environmental footprint of producing 1.3 million designs annually, regardless of minor improvements, remains substantial.
Pressure on supply chains: The demand for constant newness and rapid production inevitably puts immense pressure on manufacturers, leading to compromised labor standards and environmental shortcuts.
Consumer behavior and disposability: The low prices and constant influx of new items in ultra-fast fashion often encourage a culture of disposability, undermining efforts towards a circular economy and longer garment lifespan.
Greenwashing concerns: Critics argue that claims of sustainability within a fundamentally fast-paced model can often be a form of greenwashing, misleading consumers without addressing the core issues of overconsumption and waste.
Recent data from a 2024 report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation indicates that less than 1 per cent of materials used to produce clothing are recycled into new clothing globally. This highlights the significant challenge in achieving circularity at the scale of ultra-fast fashion.
|
Metric |
Ultra-fast fashion characteristics |
Sustainable fashion initiatives |
|
Material Circularity Rate (Global) |
< 1% contribution |
Aiming for > 50% recycled/upcycled content |
|
Average Garment Lifespan |
Often < 1 year |
Targetting > 5 years |
|
Water Usage per Garment (Cotton) |
High (thousands of liters) |
Aiming for water-efficient or alternative materials |
|
Carbon Emissions per Production Cycle |
Generally higher due to volume and speed |
Focus on renewable energy and localized production |
The upcycle speed of Re/Done
Companies like Re/Done offer a potential glimpse into a form of "upcycled speed." They source vintage denim and repurpose it into new, fashionable designs with relatively quick turnaround times. While not matching Shein's sheer volume, they demonstrate that rapid creation can be achieved with a focus on circularity and utilizing existing resources. However, their production scale remains significantly smaller, and price points are considerably higher.
The transparency challenge for ASOS
While not operating at Shein's extreme speed, ASOS, another large online fashion retailer, has faced scrutiny regarding the transparency of its supply chain and the environmental impact of its fast-fashion model. Despite efforts to introduce more sustainable collections, the sheer volume of their output and the pressure to offer affordable, trend-led clothing continue to pose significant sustainability challenges.
The moot point whether speed and sustainability can truly coexist in fashion remains a complex and evolving one. While technological advancements and innovative business models offer glimmers of hope, the fundamental conflict between rapid, high-volume production and the principles of environmental and ethical responsibility persists. As Lubomila Jordanova emphasizes, the long-term value of the fashion industry will likely lie in a shift away from simply feeding demand towards shaping it – prioritizing quality, durability, and mindful consumption over the relentless pursuit of the next fleeting trend. The data and emerging case studies suggest that while certain aspects of speed and sustainability might be reconciled on a smaller scale or through niche models, achieving true harmony at the scale of ultra-fast fashion presents a formidable challenge. The industry must critically evaluate its priorities and embrace a paradigm shift that values longevity and responsibility over ephemeral trends and unsustainable volume.
The 2025 Mumbai edition of Gartex Texprocess India opened its doors at the Jio World Convention Centre on May 22, bringing together over 125 exhibitors from India, China, Italy, Japan, Korea, Singapore, and Taiwan. With a sharp focus on textile and garment manufacturing machinery, innovative fabrics, digital screen printing, trims, and accessories, the show aims to spotlight India's evolving role in the global textile and fashion ecosystem.
Maharashtra pushes for local manufacturing and waste-free fashion
The exhibition was inaugurated by a panel of eminent dignitaries, including Sanjay Savkare, Hon’ble Minister of Textiles, Government of Maharashtra, who served as the Chief Guest. Other notable attendees included Shashank Chaudhary (IAS), Additional CEO of Invest UP; Steven Fang, Chairman of Taiwan Sewing Machinery Association; Elgar Straub, Managing Director of VDMA Textile Care, Fabric & Leather Technologies; Sharad Jaipuria, President of Denim Manufacturers Association & CMD of Ginni International Ltd; and other industry leaders from Hyosung Group, Jindal Worldwide, Raymond UCO, MEX Exhibitions, Messe Frankfurt, and the Denim Manufacturers Association.
In his inaugural address, Savkare highlighted Maharashtra's strategic policy initiatives to promote textile manufacturing. "Denim has become a major fashion trend globally, and we have relaxed import duties on textile machinery. To boost local manufacturing, the government has launched the Technical Textile Mission which provides subsidies to manufacturers," he said. He outlined the zonal subsidy structure of the state textile policy offering up to 45 per cent support depending on the region. He also introduced the Zero-Waste Fashion initiative aimed at converting textile waste into useful products such as carpets. To support this, electricity subsidies of Rs 2 per unit for private players and Rs 3 for co-operatives have been announced. He also confirmed the upcoming launch of the PM Mitra Park in Amravati, where final works are nearing completion.
Uttar Pradesh's mega textile park opens new investment avenues
Adding to this, Shashank Chaudhary discussed developments under the PM Mitra Scheme in Uttar Pradesh. "We are developing a 1,000-acre mega textile park near Lucknow under a PPP model, offering a significant opportunity for investors. The state is also enhancing ease of business through new single-window portals for approvals," he shared.
Industry leaders unite to drive innovation and growth
The show’s organisers stressed the importance of the event in fostering innovation and collaboration. Gaurav Juneja, Director of MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd, said, “Gartex Texprocess India has become a strong industry platform for knowledge exchange and showcasing transformative solutions across fabric, denim, and machinery. With Invest Uttar Pradesh as our State Partner, this edition promises to offer new business possibilities.”
Echoing these sentiments, Raj Manek, Executive Director and Board Member, Messe Frankfurt Asia Holdings Ltd, noted, “This event transcends traditional exhibitions. It helps align India’s strengths with international demand, especially at a time of shifting global supply chains.”
Jointly organised by MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd and Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd, Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai will run until May 24, 2025, serving as a dynamic hub for textile manufacturers, technology providers, and fashion innovators from across the globe.
A new report from the EU Horizon T-REX (Textile Recycling Excellence) Project, while focused on piloting a data model to enhance textile-to-textile recycling, inadvertently casts a shadow on the immediate scalability and viability of such systems. An analysis of the project's operational data reveals material losses throughout the recycling process, raising critical questions about the true potential of achieving a circular economy for textiles.
The T-REX project tracked material flow through various recycling pathways, offering a glimpse into the real-world efficiencies – or rather, inefficiencies – of current technologies. The findings create concerns, suggesting that the journey from textile waste to new fibers is fraught with substantial hurdles.
Alarming loss rates in cotton and polyester recycling
The data unequivocally highlights the challenge of retaining material mass during the recycling process. For cotton, the results are particularly stark. Starting with 465 kg of input material, the pilot project yielded a mere 182 kg of usable fiber. Almost 283 kg, or 60.8 per cent, was lost as waste during the mechanical pre-treatment and subsequent chemical recycling stages.
Polyester recycling efforts within the project mirrored these worrying trends. An initial batch of 300 kg of carefully sourced and pre-processed polyester resulted in only 125 kg output. The remaining 175 kg, which was 58.3 per cent of the input, ended up as waste. The polyester recycling pathway within the T-REX project revealed a batch of 300 kg of what was deemed suitable feedstock, having undergone pre-sorting still resulted in a 58.3 per cent loss. This suggests that even with meticulous upstream processing, the inherent complexities of textile waste and the limitations of current depolymerization or melt-recycling technologies lead to significant material degradation or unusable byproducts.
Table: Material loss in cotton and polyester during recylcing
|
Input material (cotton) |
Usable fiber output (cotton) |
Waste generated (cotton) |
Material loss rate (cotton) |
|
465 kg |
182 kg |
283 kg |
60.80% |
|
Input material (polyester) |
Usable fiber output (polyester) |
Waste generated (polyester) |
Material loss rate (polyester) |
|
300 kg |
125 kg |
175 kg |
58.30% |
These figures, derived from controlled pilot-scale operations with pre-sorted feedstock, suggest that the complexities of real-world textile waste, which often includes mixed fibers, contaminants, and intricate garment designs, could lead to even greater losses at an industrial scale.
A Reality check for circularity
The report further reveals that material loss is not solely confined to the core recycling processes. Even the initial stages of sorting and pre-processing contribute significantly to the depletion of the material stream.
In the polyethylene terephthalate (PET) stream, a substantial 283 kg of material was lost during pre-processing from an initial input of 2,100 kg. This makes up a loss rate of approximately 13.5 per cent before any actual recycling took place. Similarly, the polyamide stream too saw attrition during pre-processing. Out of an initial 825 kg, 225 kg became waste, which was a loss of around 27.2 per cent.
"These findings are a crucial reality check for the ambitious goals of textile circularity," says Anya Sharma, a leading materials scientist not involved in the T-REX project. "While the development of data models is essential for tracking and optimization, the fundamental issue of material efficiency needs urgent attention. Losing over half the input material, even under optimized conditions, raises serious doubts about the environmental and economic sustainability of these processes at scale."
Limitations of current technologies and feedstock quality
The T-REX report also sheds light on the limitations imposed by current technologies and the inherent challenges of feedstock quality. Despite employing sensor-based sorting with a claimed accuracy of up to 99 per cent, composition impurities persisted. Furthermore, mechanical treatments such as chopping, tearing, and pelletizing introduced additional material losses.
The inability to effectively remove trims, coatings, and separate complex fiber blends further restricts the quality and recyclability of the input material. This highlights a significant bottleneck in achieving high-quality recycled fibers that can seamlessly replace virgin materials.
The unanswered question
T-REX project data culminates raises critical question: If more than half of the material is lost even under controlled, pilot-scale conditions, how can the system realistically be expected to operate sustainably and economically at a larger, industrial scale dealing with more complex and contaminated waste streams?
The report implicitly suggests that without significant breakthroughs in pre-processing technologies, chemical or mechanical recycling efficiency, and the design of textiles for recyclability, the vision of a truly circular textile industry remains a distant aspiration. An honest and data-driven assessment of these limitations is crucial to avoid building a roadmap to circularity on fundamentally flawed assumptions.
The T-REX project's data, while intended to pave the way for better tracking and management of textile recycling, serves as a reminder of the technological and logistical hurdles that must be overcome to make textile-to-textile recycling a viable and sustainable solution for the future. The industry now faces the critical task of innovating and investing in solutions that can drastically improve material efficiency across the entire value chain.
