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While the idea of ethical fashion is becoming increasingly popular globally, few are willing to pay the price. Ethical brands have to compete with companies that rely on mass-production and use cheaper fabrics. Sustainable fabrics such as bamboo and linen are derived from plants, often cost more to produce than the typical synthetic fabrics of fast fashion. But the price tag should reflect environmental costs, health hazards and exploitation – or the lack thereof.
Fast fashion in its current unsustainable form is cheap as prices do not reflect the true cost. A change in consumer attitudes can allow ethical fashion to be made at a more affordable price. Giving away unloved clothing, attending garage sales and participating in local clothes-swapping events can move fast fashion out of the mainstream, putting ethical fashion in the spotlight. Through this hoped-for transition, companies can become more innovative in their means of production, leading to lower prices in the long term.
There are ethical brands making garments that cost more as they are created to show customers that what they are buying rivals the underpriced and decaying quality of fast fashion. Buying something from a fast fashion company and the cost per wear is say, Rs 5, wear it twice and it costs Rs 10. But buy a shirt for Rs100 and wear it 20 times, it ends up being the same.
"UK Trade Policy Observatory foresees, Brexit to impact the manufacturing sector which would lead to a significant drop in exports. However, continental manufacturers and retailers fear that UK operating outside the regulatory sphere of EU will be at an unfair advantage. Britian want to finalise this trade deal within a year as it will end the transition period for UK when it aligns with single market rules."
UK Trade Policy Observatory foresees, Brexit to impact the manufacturing sector which would lead to a significant drop in exports. However, continental manufacturers and retailers fear that UK operating outside the regulatory sphere of EU will be at an unfair advantage. Britian want to finalise this trade deal within a year as it will end the transition period for UK when it aligns with single market rules. However, fashion firms consider this time frame unrealistic as it may lead to negotiators overlooking some detailed protections they want, or even miss some opportunities of a post-Brexit world.
Focus on tariff-free market
The UK Fashion and Textile Association says, the deal needs to focus on creating a tariff-free market as British manufacturers rely heavily on exports to the EU. The British government should promote zero-tariff, zero-quota trade. The EU negotiators on the other hand are likely to agree to this only if Britain aligns with the bloc on issues like state aid, environmental rights and taxes.
Also, even if a free trade agreement covering these issues is reached, there are bound to be some disruptions
post-Brexit as authorities will have to face increased border checks and other holdups caused by increased border regulation. Exporters will also have to fill in declaration forms, which add to the administrative costs — UK mid-market retailer Next estimated a cost of £150,000 per year under a no-deal scenario. This is likely to be a bigger problem for small exporters, since major retailers like Next that export more than £250,000 per year into the EU, already have to declare all the goods moved out of the UK.
Making laws more flexible
Another area of concern is the difference in regulation and standards of both as all goods manufactured in the UK and sold in the EU will need to comply with the regulatory standards of the latter — and vice versa. However, UK may ensure that all EU standards are properly matched.
An even more challenging question is to prove “rules-of-origin” for the clothing sector whose supply chain stretches across multiple countries. Adam Mansell, CEO, UK Fashion and Textile Association has been lobbying with the British government for more flexibility on rules. One possible change could be stipulating single transformation, which would mean just one production process, such as tailoring material into a suit, would be needed. Fashion firms such as H&M, which sources significantly from non-EU countries, are enthusiastic about the potential for a more liberal approach.
New migration system could lead to skill shortage
The British government has also pledged to introduce a new migration system according to which, British subjects will also lose their right to work and live in the EU freely. This has led to fears of a skills shortage if the government imposes a new points-based immigration system as soon as the transition period ends. Both Fashion Roundtable and the UKFT have expressed willingness to work with the government on upskilling domestic workforce but there are concerns about the readiness of the industry to adapt to changes in the short-term.
Mansell called for clarity on freedom of movement of goods-not-for-sale like samples. If the UK mirrors the rules of other third-party countries, these will now likely be subject to the ATA Carnet or “passport for goods” system. This also presents another challenge for London Fashion Week and the British Fashion Council. If models, creatives and extra garments cannot be sourced at short notice, then it becomes a less favorable environment for luxury brands to be a part of.
Cambodia’s exports of garment, textile and footwear products in the first nine months of last year were up 13.18 per cent. However, the country may lose its Everything But Arms (EBA) benefits for exports to the EU. If that happens the EU will initially impose 20 per cent tariffs on garments imported from Cambodia and 30 per cent on footwear.
It is estimated Cambodia will incur $500 million loss in exports from the withdrawal of EBA. Cambodia is confident of overcoming this loss. A rise in exports to the US and a boom in non-garment sectors are expected to generate many jobs and help absorb the impact of a potential withdrawal. So losing around 35,000 jobs is seen as no big deal since other industries can make up for the losses. The possible withdrawal of the EBA scheme by the EU would reduce many companies’ profits but would not hurt the garment industry as a whole. Though tariffs imposed by the EU would remove some of Cambodia’s attractiveness for investors, garment and footwear will have new destination markets aside from the EU, like the US and Asean countries. So losing EBA does not mean that Cambodia will lose investors altogether.
Levi Strauss & Co has returned to the public equity markets with a Spring IPO. The company also expanded its direct-to-consumer presence and international offerings. In 2019, Levi’s unveiled several creative collaborations with the likes of Star Wars, Hello Kitty and Stranger Things. It also worked with Nike to launch an exclusive collection of footwear and partnered with Google to create an improved version the Smart Trucker that allows consumers to control their phone from the comfort of their jacket.
On the retail front, with 100 new stores are planned for 2020, the company opened six ‘Next-Gen” stores across Europe and Asia in 2019 that amplify the Levi’s brand through redesigned storefronts, tailor shops, updated fitting rooms, etc. It launched its largest ever popup in Miami spanning 45,000 sq. ft. The popup showcases the best of the brand and the future of retail, [with] Levi’s premium products.
Levi’s is also expanding its digital business across pure-play and wholesale dot-com and its own e-commerce site, while growing its presence with mass-channel partners, like Target. In its US direct-to-consumer channel, Levi’s plans to open more mainline doors leveraging the successful model we deployed internationally–smaller footprint, more profitable, more capital-efficient stores in better locations.
Athletic footwear sales in the US rose slightly in 2019. Men’s, women’s, and children’s athletic shoes grew in the low singles, with children’s doing better. The top five brands in women’s athletic footwear all posted negative results. Women’s business remains the industry’s greatest challenge and its greatest opportunity.
Premium department stores fared the best of any channel, with a mid-single digit increase in sales. Mid-tier department stores suffered a decline in the low singles. Athletic specialty/sporting goods grew in the low singles, while shoe chains were flat. Sport lifestyle footwear—the largest category—improved in the high singles, as casual athletic inspired sneakers continue to be the market driver. The major performance categories were all negative – performance basketball shoe sales declined in the low teens (now representing less than five per cent of all athletic shoes sold), and performance running shoe sales declined in the low singles. Looking at other key categories, hiking shoes and cold weather boots were essentially flat for the year. Skate shoes grew in the low teens.
Nike had a low single-digit increase. Jordan grew in the mid-singles. Converse declined in the mid-teens. Adidas had a mid-singles decline, after a weak fourth quarter. Yeezy sales appeared to be down against 2018.
C&A has introduced the first Cradle to Cradle Certified Platinum denim fabric. The denim was created in partnership with Rajby Textiles and Eco Intelligent Growth. This is the first fabric worldwide to be certified at the Platinum level by the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute, a global non-profit dedicated to transforming the safety, health and sustainability of products through the Cradle to Cradle Certified Product Standard.
C&A is the first fashion brand to achieve the highest certification level within the Cradle to Cradle Certified Products Program. To achieve the highest levels of Cradle to Cradle Certified requirements, Rajby, its supplier, Archroma, and C&A teamed up to research and identify the most suitable materials and chemicals for the fabric. The resulting denim is optimized for material health–including the use of Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)-certified organic cotton fiber–made with 100 per cent rapidly renewable resources. The fully recyclable denim is also produced using a closed-loop process water system and is 100 per cent carbon neutral in the manufacturing stage.
As with its other circular innovations, C&A aims at sharing its knowledge open source to create a pathway toward circularity for the industry. The Cradle to Cradle Certified Product Standard can be used to power innovations that ultimately have the potential to transform the fashion industry.
Panaz based in Burnley, Edward Taylor Textiles in Blackburn and Dukinfield-based Tibard have become the latest companies to adopt industrial digital technologies designed to boost growth and productivity.
They are among 62 businesses that are investing in a range of industrial digital technologies, including data analytics, artificial intelligence (AI), augmented reality (AR), industrial Internet of Things (IIoT), 3D-printing and robotics, to solve business challenges across a range of manufacturing functions and deliver an additional £52 million in gross value added (GVA) for the North West economy over the next three years, according to a press release.
Three hundred North West SMES have secured support, including specialised advice and £1.6 million in funding, in the first year of the Made Smarter programme.
This support includes expert impartial advice and one-to-one support, digital roadmapping workshops to help manufacturers take their first steps to transform their business, eight-month leadership and management training programmes offered in partnership with Lancaster University, as well as funded three-month student placements.
By adopting these cutting-edge technologies, businesses benefit from improved productivity and revenue, increased exports and job creation, providing new skills to workforces, enhanced integration with supply chains and reduced environmental impact.
The £20-million pilot programme was launched in November 2018, becoming operational in January 2019, and runs until March 2021. The pilot will inform how best to support SME manufacturers in the adoption of new industrial digital technologies.
Big Thinx, based in Bangalore, has been chosen by Italy-based luxe brand Prada for its maiden fashion tech accelerator program. Big Think works with e-commerce brands, fashion rental companies, bespoke clothing companies and uniform or work-wear businesses across the world. BigThinx’s neural networks create a personalised 3D virtual avatar from 2D images for fashion brands and their customers, using artificial intelligence using just two full-length smart phone pictures for its products Lyfsize and Lyflike to accurately predict body shapes and sizes. The app calculates 44 precise body measurements and body composition ratios with over 95 per cent accuracy in women and 98 per cent in men. The primary use case for the product is fashion and clothing companies. In the program, Prada will immerse itself into the inspiring, creative process, drawing on new ideas and connections.
Using technology effectively in fashion to optimise productivity is a big business opportunity. The convenience and ease of online retail stitched up with offline benefits of discovery and trials is an unbeatable combination. And in fashion it’s all about the right size and fit. E-commerce companies grapple with returns on clothing of which about more than half are zipped back due to incorrect fits. That’s where BigThinx wants to play.
The new Vitoni automated jeans machine includes an automatic pocket creasing machine, a pocket seating machine, an electronic slim round bed pattern sewing machine and an automatic pocket decorative machine.
The machine has a single or double needle, a thread break warning device, an easy to jig change and easy to program touch screen. It can sew all shape of pockets and can produce 200 to 300 pieces double station operations per hour.
Vitoni belongs to Focus Garment Tech, which deals with one-stop solutions for all industrial sewing machines and garment equipment from cutting, sewing to finishing. The company is committed to giving satisfactory after-sales service and prompt response for problems of any sort arising at any time. It provides total solutions for the apparel industry especially for denim factories. Bangladesh is the main market for Focus Garment Tech, and it has a 50 per cent market share in Bangladesh.
Focus Garment Tech is one of the subsidiary companies of Chu Cheong, a multinational trading group with diversified interests involving property investment, distribution of a wide variety of products including electrical appliances and garment manufacturing equipment and supply and installation of air conditioning systems for residential projects.
Denim brand Lee is introducing a new signature denim collection that is made without using water as part of the dyeing process. The pieces are fabricated using a foam dye applicator, which removes the need to use water, as well as cutting the chemicals required by 89 per cent.
The US label is championing sustainability over several areas. Lee will prioritize the health, safety and well-being of its workers, as well as encouraging them to volunteer at organizations and for causes that will make a positive impact on the world. The brand will pursue sustainable solutions in the development and production of its products, highlighting cleaner energy, waste reduction and water conservation specifically. Finally, the brand will explore innovative design solutions combining technology-enabled eco-conscious design and manufacturing.
Lee’s new sustainability platform is the roadmap that will guide its actions and help drive meaningful progress toward more positive environmental and social impacts. Lee has relaunched the first ever denim it made for women in the 40s and 50s. While the vintage sizing has been updated to reflect modern sizes, the thread choices, hardware and manufacturing processes are the same as they were back then. These pieces represent a time when Lee took what was made for men and created jeans made specifically for the female body.
