FW
"To cater to global demand for textiles, Indian textile companies are adopting latest technology. Going by the interest shown by world technology leaders at the just concluded India ITME 2016, the landscape in textiles in India is about to change. Participation from 38 countries, huge amount of foreign visitors and an overwhelming participation by Indian textile machinery manufacturers is perhaps a testimony of the mood of domestic textile industry today. Also, with China’s share in world textiles trade seven times that of India, Indian manufacturers are sensing an opportunity in exports."
To cater to global demand for textiles, Indian textile companies are adopting latest technology. Going by the interest shown by world technology leaders at the just concluded India ITME 2016, the landscape in textiles in India is about to change. Participation from 38 countries, huge amount of foreign visitors and an overwhelming participation by Indian textile machinery manufacturers is perhaps a testimony of the mood of domestic textile industry today. Also, with China’s share in world textiles trade seven times that of India, Indian manufacturers are sensing an opportunity in exports. The six-day exhibition witnessed dozens of product launches and proved to be an effective platform for joint ventures and collaborations between Indian industry and overseas manufacturers.
Speaking at TexSummit 2016, an international conference, Sanjiv Lathia, Chairman, India ITME Society said that the biggest change in next five years will be higher automation in all machines leading to better quality products for end users. He expressed the hope of seeing more advanced technology machines from Indian makers.
Product launches by manufacturers like Kirloskar Toyota with new high-efficiency motors ensuring excellent energy and space-saving machines, Color Jet with its biggest digital Metro and Vastrajet printers for a variety of fabrics like cotton, silk wool, polyester etc. World leader Karl Mayer displayed its latest innovation in wrap technology besides introducing a lace knitting machine for the Indian market. French machinery manufacturers focused on offering state-of-art service and machinery in multiple applications. Saurer Group’s new product range is built around Make in India. In all, 24 new launches took place in the six-day event.
Donald Trump’s presidential victory should be disquieting to developing nations like India that export globally to power their economic growth. The president-elect has promised to rein in free trade and globalisation that are believed to be cutting into American manufacturing and factory employment.
Trump plans to execute his promises through prohibitive tariffs and controls that could turn the US into a nettlesome export market for developing countries. As time is nearing when he would take over as the president, fear is growing. The question topmost is will he proceed with his protectionist plans?
By output value, manufacturing was one-third of America’s USP in the 1950s when the country not only produced heavy durables like aircraft, autos and industrial machinery but also made a wide-range of consumer non-durables like apparel, electrical appliances and accessories. Since then the US has evolved further into an intellectual and service-based economy driven by market dynamics and the choices businesses made, the service sector is presently predominant and manufacturing has shrunk to 12 per cent of GDP. Most standard goods and those requiring labour-intensive processes have moved to low-wage countries propelled by cost pressures in a globalising world.
In the last 30 years, the US has become a net merchandise importer with manufacturing employment down to 12 million from a high of 20 million. The promise of rejuvenation through import barriers and trade restrictions is what has catapulted Trump to presidency. Trump intends to employ punitive tariffs on cheap merchandise entering the US to encourage domestic manufacturing and bring back lost jobs. His primary tariff targets would be China and Mexico but one cannot rule out the effects of his action on other countries that export similar products like India.
US apparel imports declined seven per cent in October, setting the stage for the first full-year drop in apparel imports since 2009. The drop in apparel imports has not been offset by an increase in shipments of domestically produced apparel. The average cost per square meter of apparel imports has fallen by 3.9 per cent so far this year compared to 2015, a result of the relentless cost reduction that brands have had to resort to in order to expand profit margins in this highly promotional market environment.
China, Vietnam and Bangladesh are the top three sources of imported US apparel, collectively representing 55 per cent of year-to-date apparel imports. China has seen its share of the US market slip in recent years as countries with lower labor costs like Vietnam and those in closer proximity like El Salvador have gained share.
US apparel exports plunged by 15 per cent in October. Total apparel exports on a free alongside basis have fallen every month so far this year on a dollar basis compared to the same period in 2015. Canada, Mexico and the United Kingdom remain the top trading partners, representing more than half of all US apparel exports. Exports to the United Arab Emirates and Netherlands have grown the fastest in 2016.
The federal government of Nigeria has unveiled measures aimed at tackling some of the industrial constraints in the nation’s textile sector. The strategies being employed include stopping companies from leaving the country, stopping smuggling and counterfeiting and prioritising patronage for Made-in-Nigeria products by government agenices.
Hajia Aisha Abubakar, Minister of State, Industry, Trade and Investment said this while on a tour of textile factories in Kano as part of activities during the North-west Regional Customer Forum. The development finance institution has been at the forefront of reviving the declining textiles sector, having approved loans to over 70 projects in the CTG value chain. The minister toured factories along with the President of Manufacturers Association of Nigeria (MAN), Frank Jacobs, the General Secretary of the National Union of Textile Garment and Tailoring Workers of Nigeria, Isah Aremu and the General Manager of BOI, Joseph Babatunde among others.
Abubakar says the government has identified several issues including gas supply smuggling and counterfeiting as constraints which would be addressed to revive the textile industry in the country. She said the government was trying to address the issue of patronage. Detailing the issue of patronage, she hoped that by next year the country will see more results.
She also noted that the Export Expansion Grants (EEG) previously offered as incentives by government was grossly abused by stakeholders adding that the government was looking at bringing it back in an entirely different way for better and effective implementation.
The 2nd edition of South Asia’s only international sourcing show- Intex South Asia concluded on a successful note. The show that witnessed 2,485 professional trade buyers from 18 countries and regions visiting the exhibition and interacting with more than 140 textile suppliers to source yarns, apparel fabric, denim fabric and clothing accessories from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, China, Taiwan, Korea, Malaysia, Indonesia, Japan, Singapore, Italy and South Africa.
The show was inaugurated by acting Indian High Commissioner, Arindam Bagchi who was the chief guest at the event. He was accompanied by Indira Malwatte Chairperson & CEO, Sri Lanka Export Development Board who was the Guest of Honour. Intex South Asia is the first focused business platform in the region which has been specifically designed to synergise the garmenting needs of international brands and retailers with the manufacturing strength of South Asia satisfying both exports and large domestic markets. The show brought the entire manufacturing and supply chain together in one location.
Besides the ‘Trends Zone’ and ‘Denim World’, the highlights of the show was the interactive business forums held on November 16 & 17 alongside the exhibition with the theme ‘South Asia – Powering the global textile and garment industry’. The business forums had distinguished speakers from Sri Lanka, India and UK who shared their views and discussed on business potential in the region and sustainability in the global apparel and textile industry.
All major apparel exporters and international sourcing offices in Sri Lanka came in large numbers with their sourcing and design teams under various product/brand verticals to interact with suppliers and to find innovative products and designs for the next season. These include Brandix, MAS, Hiradamani, Omega Line, Timex Garments, and many more.
To remain competitive, the government of Indonesia has decided to continue to make efforts to strengthen and improve the textile industry and products. Strengthening the textile industry is important to increase the nation’s exports.
The business of textiles and textile products was hampered by smuggling or illegal imports in some parts of Indonesia but the government is set to take firm action against activities that hinder the growth of local manufacturing. Talking on this, the country’s finance minister Mulyani Indrawati has said she would act against illegal imports of textile and textile products and importers who have been misusing the facilities provided by the customs and excise department.
The minister said she would invite relevant ministries and institutions to review the rules on textile imports that are still conflicting, overlapping and incompatible with the needs of society, trade and industry. Currently, textile manufacturing is a labor-intensive and creates jobs in the distribution and trade sector.
Indonesia’s export statistics in 2016 showed textile contributed 9.61 per cent of total export value for non oil and gas products, or the second highest after palm oil exports.
"Global home furnisher IKEA has released its sustainability report for FY-16 in where it commits to invest €1bn in sustainability initiatives in the coming 12 months. The company says it continues to source most cotton from sustainable sources, namely Better Cotton Initiative (82 per cent) and uses recycled cotton (18 per cent) for the rest."
Global home furnisher IKEA has released its sustainability report for FY-16 in where it commits to invest €1bn in sustainability initiatives in the coming 12 months. The company says it continues to source most cotton from sustainable sources, namely Better Cotton Initiative (82 per cent) and uses recycled cotton (18 per cent) for the rest.
The report also shows progress in its People & Planet Positive strategy including its target to produce as much renewable energy as the energy it consumes in its operations by 2020. IKEA has announced that new wind farms in Poland and the US will become operational in the next 12 months. The IKEA Group produced renewable energy corresponding to 71 per cent of its energy use in FY16.
Peter Agnefjäll, President and CEO, IKEA Group observed that there are many opportunities ahead for forward - thinking businesses to contribute and benefit from the development of the low-carbon economy. Guided by the IKEA vision, to create a better everyday life for the many people, the company is determined to have a positive impact on people and the planet.
Steve Howard, Chief Sustainability Officer, IKEA Group adds IKEA has made significant progress towards its People & Planet targets, but there is still more to do. The company wants to lead with passion and purpose towards a more sustainable and equal world. On cotton sourcing, the report goes on to say that people at IKEA love to work with cotton. In FY16, the company used 130,000 tons for its bed linen, towels, furniture covers and more. That amounts to around 1 per cent of the world's cotton supply. But the company is uncomfortable with the fact that conventional cotton production can have a negative environmental impact and may be harmful for cotton farmers and their families.
That is the reason why the company commits to sourcing all its cotton from sustainable sources and is also working to improve conditions in the cotton supply chain. Organisations like BCI support farmers to improve yield and income enabling them to break the cycle of poverty.
In a controversial report, Green MEPs has accused Zara and its parent company Inditex of employing fiscal optimisation measures to avoid paying over €500 million in tax. The report was disputed by the Spanish apparel group. In its 36-page report, Green MEPs gave details of what they claim are the group's ‘aggressive tax avoidance strategies’. Zara is allegedly benefiting from low levels of corporate taxation in countries like the Netherlands, Ireland and Switzerland. On the contrary Inditex said that the report is based on mistaken premises which lead to false conclusions. The response of Zara came in a press release.
Inditex is the third group Green MEPs that has set its sights on malpractises. Last February, it pointed its finger at Swedish furniture giant Ikea and in early November at German chemicals group BASF for their fiscal trickery. Both groups have disputed the accusations.
Seven industrial units in Bangladesh have ranked among the top 10 in a list of the world's 25 most environment-friendly factories. Until recently, the country's readymade garment (RMG) sector had been highly criticised by numerous quarters of the international community before coming under government scrutiny.
However, the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certificate awarded by the US Green Building Council, a Washington-based NGO, is a testimony to Bangladesh's success in ensuring maximum environmental safety of its workplaces. The list includes: Remi Holdings, the RMG factory in Adamjee Export Processing Zone (EPZ) of Narayanganj district became the number one environment-friendly factory in the world. Narayanganj's Plummy Fashions turned out to be the runners-up.
The country's other industrial units that made it to the list include Vintage Denim (owned by ABA Group), SQ Celsius 2, Genesis Washing, SQ ColBlanc and SQ Birichina. Owners, mangers, employees and workers along with all active stakeholders of these factories deserve applause for their extraordinary achievements. Undoubtedly, their collective effort has lead to a sterling success in protecting the workplace environment, setting an example for others to follow.
According to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), amid a tight scrutiny from the government, most of the Bangladeshi RMG factories now provide for a tolerable workplace environment with adequate humanitarian facilities for workers and staff. Evidently, the US government has lost its justification before declining to grant any GSP facility to the Bangladeshi RMG companies.
The fashion industry is always on the lookout for the latest technologies to maximise efficiency in production. Every day, new techniques are discovered and tested to address issues such as sustainability and the future of apparel related processes. While 3D printing is nothing new in the fashion world, the vast majority of designers have yet to explore the techy side of the industry.
Perhaps the notion that couture could be printed from a machine throws some people off. But several designers have already dispelled any theories or misconceptions there might be on the subject, successfully adopting the technology and adding printers into their workrooms. One such designer is Iris van Herpen. Never one to go with the flow, the Dutch innovator was one of the first to use a 3D printer for her clothes, transforming her Amsterdam studio into something resembling a laboratory to bring her ideas to life. Contemporary dresses come in all silhouettes, fabrics and lengths, as shown in the cutting-edge frock collection on Lyst that showcases styles for every occasion, though none quite compare to her silicone-made “dragon skin,” form-fitted and lined with cotton and silk. Van Herpen’s creations earned her a spot in the coveted Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, in a previous exhibition known as Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology.
Someone else who has shown a vested interest in this sort of wearable tech is Israeli designer Noa Raviv, a former student at the Shenkar College of Engineering and Design. Fascinated by the broken patterns produced by computers that don’t understand the inputted code, Raviv used that as a basis for the theme of her latest collection—tension between order and chaos. Her newest range is characterised by the looping lines and patterns incorporating Swarovski crystals.
Unlike van Herpen, her company only consists of one other person and is on the lookout for another, proving that you don’t need a large team of scientists to work the machines. With no factories manufacturing her clothes, together with the “mistake prints” that lay the foundation of her items, the dresses she currently retails in LA boutique H. Lorenzo are 100 percent unique.
Because of the amount of time and dedication each piece takes, 3D printing will most likely remain a practice only seen in the luxury fashion industry for the time being, although we never know what we have in store for the future.
