FW
Hong Kong's recent Centerstage fashion showcase, held from September 4-7, 2024, proved once again that the city is a vibrant hub for emerging fashion talent. The event, organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), featured over 250 designers from Hong Kong, Asia, and beyond, showcasing their latest collections through runway shows, presentations, and trade exhibitions.
Designers, along with many others, showcased the diversity and creativity thriving in Hong Kong's fashion scene. From haute couture to sustainable futurewear, whimsical designs to edgy sportswear. Here's a glimpse into the leading brands and collections with their unique fashion statements and innovative designs:
Robert Wun: A "Homecoming" of haute couture
Hong Kong-born, London-based Robert Wun's "Homecoming" collection was a highlight, paying tribute to his grandmother and the resilience of Hong Kong women. The collection was a thrilling blend of dark glamour and sculptural artistry, featuring dramatic hats, cinched bodices, and crystal-embroidered trains. Wun's masterful craftsmanship and bold designs solidified his position as a leading force in the fashion world.
ANGUS TSUI: Futurewear with a Sci-Fi edge
Angus Tsui's collection was a sci-fi lover's dream, inspired by H.R. Giger's biomechanical designs. The collection featured futuristic, structural pieces with a dark, apocalyptic aesthetic. From spiky, tentacled dresses to vegan leather creations, Tsui's designs pushed the boundaries of fashion, showcasing his innovative approach to sustainable futurewear.
Röyksopp gakkai: A whimsical and colourful world
Röyksopp gakkai's "citta-matra" collection was a burst of playful energy, inspired by the magical girl manga series Hime-chan's Ribbon. The collection featured oversized tulle, bows, ribbons, and bright, cheerful prints. This light hearted and whimsical collection offered a refreshing contrast to the darker, edgier styles on display.
SelfFab.: Redefining sportswear with an '80s Techno Twist
SelfFab.'s "RE-SYNTHDELIC" collection was a bold reimagining of sportswear, infused with '80s techno aesthetics. The collection featured everything from revamped tracksuits and fencing-inspired silhouettes to leather tennis skirts and biker shorts. This edgy, club kid-friendly collection showcased the brand's ability to blend athleticwear with high fashion.
Rickyy Wong: Effortless cool and a love letter to Hong Kong
Rickyy Wong's collection was a celebration of understated elegance and urban style. Featuring soothing colors, laser-cut denim, and fresh takes on men's tailoring, the collection exuded a sense of effortless cool. The show's soundtrack, featuring the rhythmic beeping of Hong Kong's pedestrian signals, added a unique touch, reflecting the city's vibrant energy.
Centerstage 2024: A testament to Hong Kong's creative spirit
Centerstage 2024 was a testament to the city's dynamic fashion landscape. It's clear that Hong Kong's fashion scene is one to watch, with designers pushing boundaries and setting new trends.
The Woolmark Company has launched Woolmark+, an initiative to ensure a sustainable future for the wool industry,
Launched with an aim to improve animal welfare, this initiative also aims to enhance woolgrower livelihoods, and accelerate low-impact production, all while promoting circularity in the sector. It outlines 13 projects designed to boost productivity, reduce carbon emissions, and encourage natural regeneration. This strategy not only supports woolgrowers in achieving their commercial objectives but also aligns with brands' increasing commitment to reducing Scope 3 emissions and improving supply chain sustainability.
One of the key components of the Woolmark+ initiative includes Carbon Insetting, a pioneering program that helpsconnect global brands with woolgrowers to help meet their emissions targets through wool-insetting.
The initiative has also launched nine R&D efforts to reduce methane emissions from sheep by using feed additives. Besides, it also endorses nature positive specification by conducting environmental measurements on farms to allow woolgrowers and brands make verifiable claims about their sustainability efforts.
Another highlight of the initiative includes the Nature Positive Impact Program which offers investors a platform to engage with leading organisations working on emission reduction, biodiversity improvement, climate resilience, and circularity initiatives.
In addition, the initiative has also launched another program to position wool as the most recycled fiber in the industry.
According to John Robert, CEO, Woolmark, the Woolmark+initiative helps woolgrowers, brands, and suppliers transition towards a nature-positive approach. It enhances cost efficiency besides creating diversified revenue opportunities across the wool value chain by communicating the inherent value of wool and the environmental benefits of its production.
Ajay Pradhan, Senior Marketing & Business Development Manager -India, Woolmark, emphasises, the initiative aims to support and recognise the dedication of the wool supply chain to sustainable innovation and positive impact.
A recent World Bank (WB) report highlights a concerning trend for India's manufacturing sector. Vietnam and Bangladesh have surpassed India as the preferred low-cost manufacturing and export hubs. This shift signals a potential challenge for India's ambitions to become a global manufacturing powerhouse.
Key findings from the report
• Declining trade share: Despite its rapid economic growth, India's share in global trade has not kept pace. The proportion of trade in goods and services as a percentage of India's GDP has decreased in the past decade.
• Loss of market share: In particular, India's share in global exports of apparel, leather, textiles, and footwear (ALTF) declined from a peak of 4.5 per cent in 2013 to 3.5 per cent in 2022.
• Rise of Vietnam and Bangladesh: In contrast, Vietnam and Bangladesh have seen strong growth, reaching 5.9 per cent and 5.1 per cent of global ALTF exports, respectively, in 2022.
The report attributes this change to several factors. And one major cause is rising labor costs in India. While India still boasts a large and relatively inexpensive labor force, wages have been rising steadily in recent years. This has eroded some of India's cost advantages compared to its neighbors. Stronger infrastructure in competing countries is another reason. Vietnam and Bangladesh have invested heavily in infrastructure development, including ports, roads, and power supply. This has improved their efficiency and attractiveness to foreign investors.
Then there are favorable trade agreements as both Vietnam and Bangladesh have actively pursued free trade agreements with major economies, expanding their market access and making them more competitive export destinations. What’s more, Vietnam and Bangladesh have focused on developing specific manufacturing sectors, such as textiles and electronics, achieving economies of scale and expertise.
For example, Bangladesh's success in the textile industry is a prime example of how a focus on a specific sector, coupled with low labor costs, can drive export growth. The country has become the world's second-largest exporter of ready-made garments. On similar lines, Vietnam has attracted significant investment from global electronics companies, including Samsung and Intel. Their skilled workforce, improving infrastructure, and favorable trade agreements have made it a preferred destination for electronics manufacturing.
Table: Comparative manufacturing costs
|
Country |
Average monthly manufacturing wage ($) |
|
Vietnam |
250 |
|
Bangladesh |
150 |
|
India |
300 |
|
China |
750 |
The shift in low-cost manufacturing to Vietnam and Bangladesh underscores the importance of competitiveness in the global marketplace. Manufacturers are constantly seeking locations that offer the optimal combination of cost, quality, and efficiency. As wages rise in India and China, manufacturers are looking for alternative destinations that can provide similar capabilities at a lower cost.
Implications for India
The report underscores India needs to address several challenges to remain competitive in the global manufacturing landscape. These include improving labor productivity which entails enhancing labor skills as productivity is crucial to offsetting the impact of rising wages. Meanwhile lowering trade barriers and improving trade facilitation can make India a more attractive destination for foreign investment. Continued investment in infrastructure development is essential to improve logistics and connectivity. And simplifying regulations and creating a more business-friendly environment can encourage manufacturing growth. Identifying and promoting specific manufacturing sectors with high growth potential is also important for future growth.
India's success in manufacturing will be crucial for its economic growth and job creation. By addressing these challenges and learning from the experiences of Vietnam and Bangladesh, India can position itself for a more prosperous future in the global manufacturing landscape.
As cotton prices rise in India, ripple effects felt across supply chain, domestic market and exports
Cotton prices in India have reached new heights of late, surpassing the Minimum Support Price (MSP) by 3 per cent. Experts anticipate a further price increase in the coming days. This escalating trend is triggered by various factors, including reduced cotton acreage this Kharif season, crop damage from heavy rains in key producing states, and the lingering impact of pest attacks in the previous year.
Domestic market outlook
The current situation points to a tight cotton supply in the domestic market, with prices exceeding MSP levels. This trend is expected to persist given the lower cotton acreage and potential crop losses. In fact, the price rise might be momentarily beneficial for farmers, the ripple effects could pose challenges for the entire cotton supply chain.
The high prices of domestic cotton are expected to lead to a shift in consumption patterns, with a potential increase in the use of imported cotton. As domestic cotton becomes more expensive, textile mills and other industries may opt for relatively cheaper imported options to maintain profit margins. This could further increase the demand for imported cotton and exert pressure on the domestic market.
Export competitiveness
India is a major player in the global cotton market. However, spiralling domestic prices could negatively impact India's export competitiveness. High domestic prices make Indian cotton less attractive to international buyers compared to other cotton-producing countries. This could lead to a decline in exports and impact the revenue generated from cotton sales. Also, higher raw material costs could make Indian cotton-based products relatively expensive in the international market. This could lead to reduced exports and loss of market share to countries offering cotton products at more competitive prices.
Ripple effect across supply chain
The escalating cotton prices are likely to create a ripple effect throughout the cotton supply chain in India. From farmers to textile mills and garment manufacturers, various stakeholders may be affected.
Farmers: While higher prices may seem beneficial for farmers, the reduced sowing area and crop damage due to heavy rains may limit their overall gains. Furthermore, the increased cost of inputs like fertilizers and pesticides could further impact their profitability.
Textile mills: Higher cotton prices will translate into increased production costs for textile mills. This may force them to either pass on the cost to consumers through higher prices or absorb the impact, affecting their profitability.
Garment manufacturers: The rising cost of raw materials, including cotton, may lead to higher prices for garments and other textile products. This could impact consumer demand and affect the overall growth of the garment industry.
The debut Tranoi Tokyo trade show, held from September 4-5, spotlighted the dynamic spirit of African fashion through Afrexim bank’s Canex Presents Africa initiative. Ten distinguished brands from Africa and the diaspora showcased their designs, promoting African creativity on a global stage.
Among the featured brands was Vanhu Vamwe from Zimbabwe, known for its luxury handcrafted heirlooms that merge traditional crafts with modern innovation. Trinidad and Tobago’s The Cloth, established in 1986 by Robert Young, also participated, alongside Nigeria’s Shekudo, originally a women’s clothing brand that transitioned to footwear and accessories in 2017.
Other notable participants included Egypt’s Dina Shaker, focused on elevating personal style, and Kenya’s Adele Dejak, renowned for its luxury fashion jewellery blending contemporary design with traditional craftsmanship. Katush, also from Kenya, explores perceptions of history and culture through fashion, while Tunisia’s Anissa Aida draws inspiration from both Tunisian heritage and Japanese craftsmanship.
Judy Sanderson, a Portugal-based ready-to-wear brand by South African designer Judy Sanderson, joined the showcase along with Ethiopia’s ethical casual wear brand Fozia Endrias and Nigeria’s sustainable fashion brand Emmy Kasbit.
Kanayo Awani, Afrexim bank’s Executive Vice President, emphasized the Bank’s strategy to promote African creatives by connecting them with international buyers, investors, and industry stakeholders. She encouraged participation in Canex Wknd 2024 in Algiers, set for October 16-19, as a significant platform for collaboration and business development.
Tranoi Tokyo attracted 3,499 visitors over two days, with 170 avant-garde brands presenting their Spring/Summer 2025 collections to buyers from Japan, Korea, Singapore, Taiwan, and China.
Afrexim bank’s Canex initiative continues to provide African designers with access to global markets and sustainable growth opportunities.
Despite rising energy costs in Germany, ETV, a Gescher-based finishing specialist, continues to thrive. Founded in 1950, the company is installing a third Monforts Montex 8500 finishing range with a working width of 3.2 meters. This new system includes a Montex Coat coating unit and an Eco Booster heat recovery system, both aimed at improving productivity and energy efficiency.
ETV's managing director, Dirk Tunney, attributes the company's success to a strategic pivot 25 years ago, moving from traditional textiles to technical textiles, films, and membranes. Today, the company processes 1,500 tons of yarn and 1.6 million linear meters of fabric annually. Additionally, ETV prints 4 million linear meters of fabrics and coats up to 40 million meters of materials each year.
However, escalating energy prices present significant challenges. Energy costs, which once comprised less than 10 per cent of overhead, now account for up to 13 per cent, amounting to an additional €400,000 per year.
Monforts, a key partner, is addressing energy efficiency through innovations like the Eco Booster, which can save up to 35 per cent on energy. The company is also part of a consortium exploring green hydrogen as a future energy source for textile finishing processes. ETV’s proximity to Monforts' headquarters makes it a prime candidate for testing these new technologies.
Tunney highlights the need for government support in advancing sustainable solutions, stressing that without decarbonization efforts, German industry risks deindustrialization.
Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg Apparel) has launched its cutting-edge Film Bonding series, specifically designed for sew-free bonding applications. This advanced solution aims to enhance manufacturing efficiency and precision while providing durable, shape-retaining garments.
The Film Bonding series offers high-quality adhesive films, ensuring a strong shear bond and recovery, allowing garments to conform to body movements without losing shape. It eliminates bulky seams, giving fabrics a smooth finish. Available in tape form, the series accommodates various weights (90-220 grams per square meter) and includes thin options below 80micrometers. The series also offers thermoplastic elastomer (TPE) and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) variants with different softness levels, making them ideal for stitch-free bonding on garments such as bras, briefs, vests, and leggings.
In addition to the Film Bonding series, Freudenberg has expanded its Net Bonding series by introducing an innovative oval net structure to its TPE polymer adhesives. This structure complements the existing Diamond and Hexagon patterns, providing more options for breathable and elastic garments. The Net Bonding solutions, ranging from 50-240 grams per square meter, are ideal for intimate and activewear, including leggings and sports bras.
Freudenberg continues to lead in bonding technology, optimizing fabric strength and elasticity while reducing the need for traditional stitching methods.
Zara plans to launch its ‘Pre-Owned’ platform for selling, repairing or donating second-hand clothes in the United States by Oct-end.
Zara has been operating its 'Pre-Owned' platform in 16 European countries, after it was launched in Britain in Nov’22.
The service is available through Zara stores, its website and an app in countries including Spain, France and Germany.
According to Oscar Garcia Maceiras, CEO, Inditex, the company’s online platforms are visited by over 22 million customers per day.
Zara also plans to launch live shopping shows in the US, as well as other key markets such as Spain, Canada, France, Italy, Germany, Britain, Ireland and The Netherlands in the coming months. The brand’s sales getting a boostfrom the five -hour long live shopping shows in China and broadcast weekly on Douyin, TikTok's sister site in China, as per retail analytics firm Edited.
Other fast fashion retailers such as H&M also offer products for resale in the US. The brand sells secondhand items in the US via a stand-alone website in partnership with ThredUp.
A vertically integrated global textile leader, Himatsingka Seide plans to expand both its market presence and customer base in FY25 to align with the evolving market landscape.
Furthermore, Himatsingka also aims to maintain high standards of Environmental, Social, and Governance (ESG) responsibility. The company will continue to maintain its leadership position in the home textiles sector by combining best-in-class innovation, flexibility and global client networks. It will also seek to de-leverage its balance sheet and optimise capital efficiency, says Shrikant, Himatsingka, Executive Vice Chairman and Managing Director.
A specialist in the design, development, manufacturing, and distribution of a diverse range of textile products, Himatsinghka has four advanced manufacturing facilities along with some of the largest installed capacities in the world for bedding products, bath products, and cotton yarn.
Fiscal 2024 proved to be both rewarding and challenging for Himatsingka Seide as the company faced global macroeconomic headwinds while consolidating its operations. The company demonstrated remarkable resilience, driven by its strong business fundamentals, integrated manufacturing platforms, and commitment to innovation. Its consolidated revenues grew by 4 per cent to Rs 2,862.58 crore during the year while consolidated EBITDA increased by 78.40 per centto Rs 617.33 crores.
This growth was driven by a stable demand environment, enhanced capacity utilisation, and the easing of supply chain costs, notes Himatsingka. The company continues to focus on optimising operations further and reducing debt in FY 25.
From 2025, the Fall/Winter edition of Première Vision Paris has been shifted from its current schedule in July to mid-September.
Additionally, reacting to the increasing presence of Turkish and Asian exhibitors at Première Vision Paris, a number of Italian producers have opted to exhibit at trade shows in Italy instead of Paris,
Focusing on designer and luxury pre-collections, the Blossom showwill continue to be held twice a year, in early summer and December. Meanwhile, the future of the Fashion Rendezvous event, which is not on this year's calendar, is still under consideration. The organisers aim to ensure that each event is held at the most appropriate time for the industry.
This date change aligns with the new ownership and leadership structure of Première Vision’. In February 2023, GL Events, which previously held a 49 per cent stake in Première Vision, acquired full ownership of the trade show. A year later, Florence Rousson, Managing Director, GL Events was appointed President, Executive Committee, Première Visionwith the mandate to revamp the 11 trade events the company regularly organises across Europe, Asia, and North America.
In 2025, Première Vision Paris will be held on Feb 11-13, followed by a second session on Sep 16-18. Held from July 2-4, 2024, the most recent edition of the event featured 930 exhibitors and attracted visitors from around 8,000 companies.
