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The global fashion industry is facing a sobering contradiction. Even as some of the world’s largest apparel brands proudly champion their use of recycled polyester, the material’s overall share in global production is shrinking. A new analysis reveals that virgin polyester’s relentless growth largely due to the rise of ultra-fast fashion is eclipsing the sustainability progress made by industry leaders.
Between 2019 and 2023, global polyester production grew from 57.7 million tonnes to 71.1 million tonnes, reveals Textile Exchange and Maia Research study. Yet, paradoxically, the share of recycled polyester in this growing pool fell from 13.7 per cent to 12.5 per cent. In simple terms, recycled polyester is growing, but virgin polyester is growing faster and the sustainability balance is tilting backward.
Polyester at a crossroads
Polyester remains the backbone of fashion’s supply chain, accounting for over 54 per cent of global fiber production. Its appeal is clear: affordability, versatility, and durability. However, polyester is also derived from fossil fuels, making it one of fashion’s largest contributors to global carbon emissions.
The shift toward recycled polyester (rPET), mainly sourced from post-consumer PET bottles, was seen as a milestone in reducing dependence on virgin plastics. Yet, the latest data suggests that these efforts are not keeping pace with consumption. “Recycling is no longer enough if virgin fiber growth outpaces it. Without regulatory guardrails, fast fashion will always default to the cheaper option,” says Claire Bergkamp, CEO, Textile Exchange.
Leaders vs. laggards, it’s a divided industry
While global averages paint a grim picture, some brands have shown remarkable progress. Large, established brands have embraced recycled polyester, due to consumer demand and corporate sustainability goals. Companies like Adidas, H&M, and Lululemon have been highlighted for their successful adoption rates of 99.3 per cent, 94 per cent, and 61 per cent respectively. Their commitment has spurred innovation, with new technologies like chemical recycling emerging to improve the quality and consistency of recycled fibers. For example, Indorama Ventures has partnered with other companies to use CO₂-derived materials for new polyester fibers, while others are developing methods to recycle marine waste.
However, the progress of these leaders is being undone by the massive scale and low-cost model of fast fashion. As the Apparel Impact Institute's ‘Taking Stock’ report notes, virgin polyester is cheaper to produce than its recycled counterpart. With no mandates in place to require recycled content, instant fashion players, who prioritize speed and low price, are able to ramp up their use of the cheaper virgin fibers without consequence. This creates a competitive disadvantage for brands that invest more in sustainable materials.
Table: Recycled polyester adoption by leading brands (2024)
|
Brand |
Share of recycled polyester in materials |
Important initiatives |
|
Adidas |
99.30% |
"End Plastic Waste" campaign, investments in chemical recycling and textile-to-textile recycling. |
|
H&M |
94% |
Circular Design strategy, partnership with Syre for textile-to-textile recycling, and a goal to be 100% recycled or sustainably sourced by 2030. |
|
Lululemon |
61% |
rPET-based activewear lines, investment in plant-based fibers, and a multi-year partnership with Samsara Eco for enzymatically recycled materials. |
|
Indorama Ventures (Supplier) |
N/A |
Leading global producer of rPET, with innovations including CO₂-derived polyester and marine waste recycling. |
These leaders are proving that large-scale adoption is possible, but their progress is undermined by the low-cost, high-speed fast fashion model, where the economics are starkly different. Virgin polyester remains significantly cheaper to produce than recycled alternatives, particularly in regions with low fossil fuel costs and limited regulation. This enables ultra-fast fashion players to flood the market with inexpensive garments, free from the costs of sustainability investments.
Market dynamics
While both virgin and recycled polyester markets are growing, the disparity in absolute numbers is striking. Virgin polyester will add over $50 billion in new market value by 2030, compared to only $10.6 billion for recycled polyester.
Table: Polyester market outlook
Metric 2024 Value (USD) 2030 Projected Value (USD) Source Global Polyester Fiber Market Size $77.07 billion $129.97 billion Fortune Business Insights Global Recycled Polyester Market Size $15.52 billion $26.18 billion Grand View Research
Sustainability leaders argue that voluntary commitments are insufficient in the face of an expanding fast-fashion ecosystem. Calls are growing for regulatory frameworks that would make sustainability a baseline rather than an exception.
For example, the European Union’s Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles is widely regarded as a pioneering approach. The provisions include:
Mandatory Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR): Brands must finance collection, sorting, and recycling of textiles.
Eco-design rules: Setting minimum recycled content thresholds and durability requirements.
Ban on destroying unsold stock: Forcing companies to reuse, recycle, or donate unsold goods.
By shifting costs onto all market players equally, the EU hopes to eliminate the competitive disadvantage faced by sustainability leaders. “Circularity will only scale when all companies share the same obligations. Policies like EPR are critical to level the playing field,” notes Katrin Ley, Managing Director, Fashion for Good.
India’s position as an emerging player
India, one of the world’s largest polyester producers, plays a dual role in this paradox. On one hand, it houses some of the world’s largest rPET manufacturers like Reliance Industries, which has invested heavily in recycling PET bottles into textiles. On the other, its fast-growing domestic fast fashion market risks deepening the virgin polyester problem. Without policy mandates similar to the EU, Indian producers and brands may find themselves caught between global sustainability expectations and local cost pressures.
What lies ahead?
The industry now stands at a crossroads. If virgin polyester continues to outpace recycling, the environmental costs will be staggering. Polyester already accounts for nearly 32 per cent of the fashion industry’s greenhouse gas emissions, and unchecked growth could derail global decarbonization targets. However, with policy support, technological innovation, and consumer awareness, recycled polyester could become more than just a niche solution. For now, the paradox remains: progress by leaders, erased by the scale of laggards. Until systemic interventions take hold, the fabric of fashion’s future risks being woven with more fossil fuels than circular fibers.
Stella McCartney has appointed Tom Mendenhall its new CEO, bringing on a seasoned executive with extensive experience at top luxury brands, including Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and Gucci.
Mendenhall takes over from Amandine Ohayon, who is stepping down from her role after nearly two years. Ohayon will remain with the company for a period to advise during the leadership transition.
Mendenhall joins the brand at a pivotal moment. While Stella McCartney is one of Britain’s most celebrated designer labels and a pioneer in sustainable fashion, it remains relatively small compared to other global brands. Its most recent financial results for 2023 showed the company was still operating at a loss. Earlier this year, McCartney herself bought back the minority stake held by French luxury conglomerate LVMH, five years after LVMH first invested in the business.
As the company sets its sights on future growth, Mendenhall will be tasked with steering the brand forward while upholding its core ethical values. He'll also be forging a close working relationship with the designer herself.
Before this role, Mendenhall served as president of the Polo and Double RL brands at Ralph Lauren. His background also includes roles as COO at Tom Ford, global merchandising director at Gucci, and senior vice president at Abercrombie & Fitch.
Stella McCartney states, Mendenhall shares her vision for the brand and the ethical values that are part of the brand’s DNA. His extensive experience in all aspects of luxury fashion will be invaluable in driving the business forward, she adds.
In turn, Mendenhall called the label a powerful one ‘led by a strong and compassionate woman,’ and said he looks forward to working with McCartney and her global team.
Held from September 2-3, 2025 at the Business Design Centre, the London Textile Fair (TLTF) attracted over 320 exhibitors and 3,587 visitors.
Exhibitors from 20 countries - including strong representation from Turkey, the UK, China, Italy, France, Portugal, India, and Taiwan - showcased a diverse range of collections at the show. In particular, the Taiwan and China Pavilions presented a wide array of high-quality textiles, accessories, and garments, emphasizing advanced manufacturing and eco-friendly solutions.
The fair's collections were heavily focused on fabrics, which made up 80 per cent of the displays. The remaining exhibitors were divided among fashion accessories (6 per cent), vintage and print design (7 per cent), and garments (7 per cent), showcasing the event’s comprehensive approach to the entire textile and fashion supply chain.
With 95 per cent of its 3,587 visitors coming from the UK, The London Textile Fair primarily drew a strong domestic audience. Industry professionals from nearly every major British fashion brand and designer were in attendance, from high-street retailers to independent boutiques. Visitors included representatives from Urban Outfitters, Allsaints, Marks & Spencer, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Next, Jigsaw, Ted Baker, etc.
Beyond the sourcing floor, the fair hosted a vibrant Trend Forum and a dynamic seminar program called ‘Design Vision.’ Curated by The Colourful, the seminars offered leading trend forecasters who shared key insights into Fall/Winter 2026/27 color, fabric innovation, and market intelligence. These sessions were well-attended by designers and buyers seeking creative inspiration for their upcoming collections.
The seminars enriched the fair by creating an interactive space for dialogue, allowing visitors to engage with speakers on the intersection of global trends with sustainability, technology, and creativity. By providing a platform for forward-thinking ideas and industry knowledge, the fair solidified its position as more than just a sourcing event.
Live social shopping brand, QVC has partnered with global fashion designer Rebecca Minkoff to debut a new, exclusive apparel line: RM Studio x Rebecca Minkoff. The capsule collection is available now on QVC.com and premiered on-air during the ‘Fri-Yay’ broadcast.
Mara Sirhal, Chief Merchandising Officer, QVC, says, the RM Studio x Rebecca Minkoff collection delivers on every level, giving shoppers exclusive access to designer pieces that adapt seamlessly to their everyday lifestyle - from day to night.
The collection features a mix of feminine and edgy designs that find a balance between structure and softness. Offering statement jackets, denim, and chunky knits, the apparel pieces are designed to invite shoppers to experiment with proportion through artful pleats, ruching, and innovative patterns. This line offers elevated wardrobe staples that are meant to move with you, flatter you, and make a statement.
QVC has a unique ability to bring designers and customers together through storytelling and connection, which made them an ideal partner for our brand, says Rebecca Minkoff. Through this collaboration, the brand distills its essence into everyday pieces and inspires women to embrace their authentic selves, all while making designer fashion more accessible than ever.
Developed in collaboration with Rachael Barnard, the Apparel Design & Manufacturing Executive for Rebecca Minkoff at Sunrise Brands, the collection is a testament to QVC’s commitment to bringing coveted brands to life through engaging, real-time storytelling.
The RM Studio x Rebecca Minkoff collection is available in sizes XXS–3X in both regular and petite, with pricing that ranges from $50–$150.
The outlook for India's apparel export sector has been downgraded from ‘Stable’ to ‘Negative’ by the credit rating agency ICRA, following a significant increase in United States tariff rates. The agency warns that this shift is expected to put a strain on export revenues in the coming fiscal year.
According to ICRA, a combination of lower export volumes and pricing pressures will likely cause industry operating margins to contract by 200–300 basis points in FY2026. Companies that are more dependent on the U.S. market are expected to feel a steeper impact. The agency projects a 6-9 per cent drop in total apparel export revenues for FY2026 if the tariffs remain in effect. This decline is expected despite a partial cushion from the U.K. Free Trade Agreement (FTA) and a potential redirection of some shipments to other destinations.
Operating profit margins are forecast to fall from approximately 10 per cent in FY2025 to around 7.5 per cent, reflecting weaker performance in the latter half of the year and reduced operational efficiency.
The United States is a critical market for India, accounting for nearly one-third of its total apparel exports and holding about a 6 per cent share of the US apparel import market. This comes as Indian exporters are already facing stiff competition from major rivals like Bangladesh and Vietnam, which has eroded India’s global market share.
The 50 per cent increase in US tariff rates, which went into effect on August 27, will directly impact the cost-competitiveness of Indian exporters. While some companies shipped products earlier than planned to get ahead of the tariff hike and boost first-half revenues for FY2026, ICRA cautioned that the full pressure of the tariffs will intensify in the second half of the year. The agency also noted that lower earnings and higher working capital needs could ultimately weaken the credit standing of apparel exporters.
For more than a century, luxury brands have thrived on a singular philosophy: exclusivity. Their world has been carefully built on scarcity, mystique, and a sense of inaccessibility that defines status as much as craft. A Birkin isn’t just a handbag, and a Rolex isn’t just a timepiece they are cultural signifiers, trophies of belonging to an elite world where entry is tightly controlled.
But in 2025, that fortress is facing its boldest challenge yet not from counterfeiters or fast fashion, but from an industry growing in legitimacy: the luxury resale market. What was once a niche realm of vintage hunters has exploded into a multi-billion-dollar ecosystem, radically changing how people acquire, value, and even perceive luxury goods. And unlike fleeting fashion fads, this is no temporary shift; resale is carving out a permanent space in the luxury landscape.
When scarcity meets a digital marketplace
Few examples illustrate the clash between tradition and modernity better than Hermès and its most famous creation: the Birkin bag. For decades, the Birkin has embodied a masterclass in scarcity-driven marketing. There are no public waitlists, no clear process just a cultivated sense of mystery. To be “offered” one by a Hermès sales associate, customers must invest years of loyalty, purchasing belts, scarves, and jewelry before possibly being deemed worthy of the holy grail.
But on resale platforms, this elaborate dance collapses. A quick search online reveals hundreds of Birkins, often pristine and unworn, available instantly, for a price. In the resale market, a Birkin 25 or 30 in pristine condition can command around $28,000-$30,000, more than double its retail price. Suddenly, the illusion of exclusivity vanishes: anyone with cash can bypass the Hermès gatekeeping process.
Unsurprisingly, Hermès leadership bristles at this disruption. CEO Axel Dumas has publicly criticized ‘false customers’ who buy Birkins solely to flip them, warning that resale undermines the true brand experience. For Hermès, the resale boom isn’t just about missed revenue; it erodes the very aura that makes a Birkin more than a bag.
A market in hyper-growth
What makes this disruption impossible to ignore is sheer scale. The luxury resale industry has become one of the fastest-growing segments of fashion retail, outpacing even the growth of the primary luxury market. Sustainability concerns, digital-first consumers, and the rise of ‘luxury as investment’ are leading to a transformation in how people engage with high-end goods.
Table: Global luxury resale market growth
|
Year |
Global luxury resale market value (in bn) |
|
2023 |
$34.39 |
|
2024 |
$28.71 (or $25.78, depending on source) |
|
2033 |
$61.85 (or $82.82, depending on source) |
|
2035 |
$146.50 |
Note: Data points and projections vary slightly across different market research reports. However, the consistent theme is significant and sustained growth.
The primary drivers behind this growth are mostly the millennials and Gen Z, who represent a major portion of the new luxury consumer base. They are highly motivated by sustainability. They view pre-owned luxury items as a way to reduce their environmental footprint and participate in a circular economy.
At the same time for many, the resale market provides a more accessible entry point into the world of luxury. It allows them to own a coveted brand at a fraction of the original retail price, democratizing a once-exclusive domain. Investment mindset is another factor as savvy consumers are increasingly viewing luxury items, particularly iconic handbags like the Birkin, watches, and rare vintage pieces, as tangible assets that can hold or even appreciate in value over time.
Meanwhile digital platforms have made the buying and selling process seamless, with sophisticated authentication services, user-friendly interfaces, and a global reach that connects buyers and sellers from around the world.
From confrontation to collaboration
For years, luxury brands viewed the resale market with suspicion, seeing it as a threat to their brand equity and a hotbed for counterfeits. Some, like Chanel, have even engaged in high-profile legal battles against prominent resellers to protect their intellectual property. However, as the market's momentum became undeniable, many brands have shifted their approach, moving from confrontation to collaboration and control.
For example, Rolex the Swiss watchmaker, long known for its strict control over distribution, launched its Certified Pre-Owned program. By authenticating and certifying watches sold through its official retailers, Rolex ensures quality and authenticity, while also capturing a share of the secondary market and maintaining control over pricing and brand image. Gucci, one of the pioneers in this space, partnered major resale platform The RealReal. The collaboration allows Gucci customers to consign their pre-owned items and receive store credit, creating a seamless, circular experience that keeps customers within the Gucci ecosystem. This partnership not only promotes sustainability but also provides a level of quality control and authentication that protects the brand's reputation.
Burberry, the British fashion house has also embraced the resale model through a partnership with Reflaunt. This service enables Burberry customers to sell their used items, receiving store credit for future purchases. This kind of integration demonstrates how brands are using resale as a tool for customer loyalty and engagement.
The global map of luxury resale
While resale is booming everywhere, cultural perceptions of ‘pre-owned luxury’ vary significantly across regions.
US & Europe: These remain the heartlands of resale, driven by early adopters like The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective, and Rebag. Here, sustainability and the thrill of investment drive purchases. Vintage culture has long had social cachet, and pre-owned luxury is a natural extension.
China: Once resistant to ‘used goods’ due to cultural taboos around secondhand ownership, attitudes are shifting rapidly. Platforms like Poizon and Ponhu have transformed resale into a Gen Z phenomenon. In China’s ultra-fast luxury cycle, resale is now seen as a savvy way to rotate collections quickly. Analysts project China could soon rival the US as the largest resale market.
India: A latecomer, India is witnessing a cultural turning point. Traditionally, luxury consumption has been about newness and display, but younger urban buyers are driving change. Platforms like Confidential Couture and Elanic have tapped into a growing appetite for accessible luxury. With India’s luxury market expected to hit $200 billion by 2030 resale is positioning itself as a natural complement offering sustainability, affordability, and circularity to an expanding consumer base.
Middle East: In markets like the UAE and Saudi Arabia, resale is gaining traction thanks to luxury’s deep-rooted status appeal. Here, the resale market skews heavily toward watches, jewelry, and limited-edition handbags items viewed as investment pieces.
These variation highlight that while the motivations differ status, sustainability, investment, or accessibility the outcome is the same: resale is embedding itself as part of the luxury lifecycle.
The new horizon
Despite these changes, the luxury resale market continues to present uncomfortable realities for traditional brands. The issue of ‘status’ is a particularly complex one. For the ultra-high-net-worth clientele, the impressiveness of a luxury item lies in its exclusivity. When a limited-edition handbag is widely available on a resale platform, even at a premium, it risks diluting the perception of scarcity that is so central to its appeal. This is the delicate balance brands must now navigate: maintaining an aura of exclusivity while acknowledging the reality of a booming, accessible secondary market.
The growing market for resale is also driving innovation in other areas. The need for foolproof authentication has made technologies like blockchain and NFTs more relevant than ever. These tools offer a way to create a digital record of an item's provenance, from its creation to its various owners, providing a universal system for verification that benefits both brands and consumers.
The luxury resale market is no longer an external force; it is an intrinsic part of the modern luxury landscape. Brands that succeed in this new era will be those that can master this complex dance of control and collaboration, leveraging technology to address the challenges of authenticity and brand image, while simultaneously embracing the consumer demand for sustainability and accessibility. The future of luxury is not just about creating beautiful new things, but about intelligently managing the entire lifecycle of a product, from its first life to its second, and beyond.
Designed to make many consumer goods cheaper, India's recent tax overhaul is causing concern for global fashion brands like Zara, Levi Strauss, and Lacoste. Under the new law, apparel priced at more than Rs 2,500 (about $29) will be taxed at 18 per cent, a significant increase from the previous rate of 12 per cent. Meanwhile, clothing below that price will see a reduced tax of just 5 per cent.
This change could be a major setback for the premium apparel segment, which makes up about 18 per cent of India's $70 billion fashion industry. This sector has been fueled by a growing number of wealthy and brand-conscious young people. However, executives are worried that this demographic is still price-sensitive.
Retail operates on razor-thin margins, and overheads like rent are extremely high, said a CEO of a foreign brand in India. The growth expected earlier won't happen now, the official added
This tax increase is a ‘double whammy’ for domestic garment makers. In addition to the new domestic tax, their thriving export business to the US is already struggling with a 50 per cent tariff imposed by the previous presidential administration.
In a surprising twist, the same tax reform that raised levies on clothing actually lowered them on expensive goods like luxury SUVs, reducing their tax rate to a flat 40 per cent. The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) has warned that the higher tax on apparel could be a ‘death knell for the industry’ since clothes priced over Rs 2,500 commonly purchased by the middle class.
For brands like Superdry India, most of its products, including jackets and shirts, now fall under the new 18 per cent tax. Similarly, not a single men’s T-shirt on the Lacoste India website is priced below the new $29 tax threshold. The tax hike is also expected to impact the clothing budget for weddings, a major business in India.
Scheduled to be held from September 10-12, 2025 in Istanbul, the 8th annual Texhibition Istanbul Fabric, Yarn, and Textile Accessories Fair, has emerged as a central hub for the global textile industry. Organized by ITKIB Fairs In, this event brings together production, innovation, and sustainability with an export-driven focus.
The upcoming event will feature over 500 exhibitors across 40,000 sq m, attracting more than 25,000 visitors from the US, Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East. This makes the fair a key gateway for companies looking to expand their global presence.
More than just a marketplace; the fair serves as a platform for innovation. Attendees will find specialized zones like the Innovation Hub, which showcases smart textiles and AI-driven processes, and the Trends Lab, where fabrics tell a story about future design directions. The Blue Black Texhibition zone, in particular, will highlight Turkey's leadership in denim, featuring top manufacturers like Bossa and ISKO.
Texhibition Istanbul has rapidly developed into one of the most important global platforms for the textile industry, says Ahmet Öksüz, Chairman, İTHİB. With every edition, the fair not only connects Turkey’s strong and diverse manufacturers with international buyers but also demonstrates how innovation, sustainability, and creative vision can shape the future of textiles, he adds.
Including everything from woven and knitted fabrics to yarn and accessories, the fair’s comprehensive offerings attract a diverse audience of decision-makers. It serves as a vital platform for building partnerships and securing business opportunities, likely to influence the future of global textile industry, by uniting producers, brand managers, designers, and retailers.
At the upcoming ITMA Asia + CITME exhibition in Singapore, a delegation of 20 British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) companies will showcase how their technologies are supporting highly advanced industries, from medicine to aerospace.
A leader in fiber production, UK's Fiber Extrusion Technology (FET) will unveil a new parallel technology for the medical sector that uses supercritical CO2. Another FET innovation is a flexible, small-scale process for manufacturing ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), a material ten times stronger than steel. This new batch system, which addresses the industry's need for smaller quantities of specialized UHMWPE fibers, is a ‘game-changer,’ according to Richard Slack, Managing Director, FET.
In the aerospace sector, technologies like Automated Fiber Placement (AFP) and Automated Tape Laying (ATL) are used to create lightweight yet strong aircraft parts, such as fuselage sections and wing skins. UK's Cygnet Texkimp has developed a new production-scale tape slitting machine to assist this industry. This technology can slit tapes at speeds up to 60 meters per minute, allowing partners to test materials and concepts in real-world conditions.
Airbond is also supporting the aerospace industry with its pneumatic yarn splicing technologies. These systems join filaments together to create a joint that is stronger and flatter than a knot, ensuring resource efficiency when processing expensive carbon and aramid fibers.
High-value industries such as aerospace, defense, renewable energy, and the medical sector are areas of high growth and opportunity, says Jason Kent, CEO, BTMA. A key factor in the success of BTMA members is the strong collaboration between industry and UK universities, he notes.
The Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) and Tiruppur knitwear exporters have applauded the latest reforms from India's GST Council, which are expected to drive new growth for the nation's apparel sector.
The organizations have hailed some of the major changes in these reforms, including faster export refunds and more streamlined GST rates, as critical steps toward boosting India's GDP. Industry leaders believe, these reforms will support Indian exporters and align with the country's ‘Make in India’ initiative.
The council has expressed gratitude to government officials, stating, these measures will empower the broader textile industry and improve the standard of living for many citizens. This move is seen as a sign of the industry's strong partnership with the government's national reform efforts.
