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Tokyo Girls Collection, a semiannual fashion show that attracts tens of thousands of women in arenas, had taken its event to New York for the first time on 31st May 2018.
The Tokyo Girls Collection, or TGC, event attracts an average of 30,000 spectators in arenas and is streamed live on the Internet. Models, singers and celebrities parade the latest casualwear from Japanese and international designers on the runway, while spectators can order the clothes on their smartphones instantly. TGC is promoted by Japan’s foreign affairs ministry and the nation’s tourist agency. TGC has been focused on international implementation of Tokyo street culture which is a semiannual event that started in 2005, taking place in spring and autumn.
TGC is one of the major fashion festivals in history. It has been held twice a year since August 2005 with the theme of international implementation of Tokyo street culture. A total of about 100 popular Japanese models perform in a fashion show displaying Japan street fashion. The festival also features live performances by important artists, a special stage filled with popular guests, booths where participants can touch and try popular items, and various other contents that are unique to TGC.
Moda Operandi, the online retailer that allows for consumers to preorder looks straight from the runway, is expanding to menswear. The company informed in a statement that it aims to cater to luxury minded men, offering them a curated selection of the season’s best offering.
The men’s section of Moda Operandi’s website will feature more than 50 brands, including Prada, Maison Margiela, Givenchy, Ralph Lauren, Thom Browne, Off-White, Balmain, Lanvin and Burberry. The launch is happening just in time for Milan and Paris men’s fashion weeks in late June.
Deborah Nicodemus CEO of Moda Operandi, says that the company has identified a gap in the market for men to experience the same exclusive opportunity. It saw strong interest in the menswear category over that last two holiday seasons, which led us to the decision to introduce Men's as a standalone business.
This is the third time in two years that Moda Operandi expands to a new market. Recently, the company also started selling home goods and fine jewelry, after securing 165 million US dollars in growth capital from C Ventures, K11 and Apax Digital in 2017. In total, the company has raised over 297 million dollars in funding.
Moda Operandi was launched in February 2011. Collections from some of the world’s top designers are made available for preorder at the website, months before they are available anywhere else.
Despite tough market conditions on the high street Menswear brands and buyers are feeling positive about the spring 19 season, and independents are keeping their budgets in line with last year.
The spring 19 trade show season starts on 12 June at Florence exhibition Pitti Uomo. Menswear sources have told Drapers they are keeping more budget in-season to react to the weather and are generally feeling optimistic about the season ahead.
Debra McCann, owner of The Mercantile in London’s Spitalfields, warned that economic uncertainty and changeable weather had resulted in a high level of unpredictability in the market. Ben Tattersall, sales manager at agency Just Consultancies, stated that despite a challenging year for retail, he expects the mood to be upbeat at trade shows. Likewise, Ravi Grewal, co‐owner of menswear independent Stuarts London hopes to be surprised at the upcoming exhibitions.
On the other hand Hoggett expected the casual appeal of retro sportswear to stay popular for spring 19.
Chandler agreed athleisure and looser styles would stay strong, and men would also become braver in their choice of colour, texture and print.
The 61st India International Garment Fair 2018, to be held on 16-18 July 2018 in New Delhi, India is one of the Asia's largest and most popular apparel and clothing trade shows. A perfect amalgamation of fashion, design and quality, the show brings together professionals and industry experts to share valuable experienced knowledge and innovative ideas to make advanced this sector in the world market.
Profile of exhibit based on Blazers, Blouses, Cardigan, Cashmere Products, Casual Wear, Children's Wear, Denim Wear, Infants' Wear, Jackets, Knitwear, Ladies Wear, Men's Wear, Pullover, Shirts, Shorts, Silk Garments, Skirts, Suits, Sweater, Sweat Shirt, T-Shirt, Trousers, Vest, Wool Garment, Designer's Labels, Bridal Wear, Cocktail Dresses, Evening Dresses, Leather Garment, Fur Garment, Maternity Wear, Uniforms, Work Clothes, Outerwear, Swimwear, Body Wear, Skiwear and Down Coats.
Visitors like CEO, Managing Director, General Manager, Chief Manager, Sales, Marketing, Planning, Department, Engineer, Technician, Consultant, Coordinator, Supervisor, Financier, Accountant related to the textile industry are the target industry.
IndustriALL’s steering committee meeting of the ICT, held on 28-29 May 2018, discussed global industry trends; evaluated current activities and future strategies to strengthen union power and respond to challenges faced by the trade union movement. 24 countries that will come under the scrutiny of the Committee on the Application of Standards for alleged violations of international labour conventions. Algeria, Belarus, Brazil, Haiti, Mexico, Nigeria and the Ukraine are few of the countries where IndustriALL Global Union trade union affiliates are directly affected.
The Committee on the Application Standards (CAS), checks how International Labour Organisation (ILO) standards ratified by member states are being applied.
The CAS will examine cases on violations of the fundamental ILO Convention 87 on Freedom of Association and Protection of the Right to Organise in Algeria and Mexico.
Belarus will be inspected under Forced Labour Convention 29, whereas Brazil and Nigeria, will come under examination for breaching ILO Convention 98 on the Right to Organise and Collective Bargaining Convention.
The CAS will address violations of multiple Conventions on hours of work and weekly rest (Numbers 91, 14, 30, 106) in Haiti and the Ukrainian government will be invited to supply information on violations of labour inspection Conventions 81 and 129.
Export to China in the first six months of the Ethiopian Fiscal Year 2017-18, which started July 9, accounted for 17.3 per cent of Ethiopia's total export, overtaking Somalia, now accounting for 14.32 per cent.
Ethiopia's largest export destination in 2017 was neighboring Somalia, which imported 269.3 million U.S. dollars' worth of goods accounting for 9.26 per cent of Ethiopia's total exports.
According to the Ethiopia Ministry of Trade (MoT) Ethiopia exported 239.82 million U.S. dollars' worth of goods to China in 2017, accounting for 8.25 per cent of its total exports. The second largest export destination for the East African country. Ethiopia exported about 2.9 billion U.S. dollars’ worth of goods in 2017.
The revenue was earned from the exports of agricultural products, textile and garment, leather products, minerals, flowers and construction materials.
With Chinese firms located in Ethiopian industrial parks tentatively starting to export industrial goods to China. The volume of Ethiopian exports to China is expected to significantly increase in the coming years.
"For the past many years, two of the biggest global textile buyers, US and European, have been following the China + 1 or China + many sourcing strategies. Among these +1 or +many would be Asian countries, viz., Bangladesh, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka. However, recent OTEXA statistics reveal even though US imports from these countries remain the highest they have not clocked in the highest growth rates. Rather imports have enhanced from Turkey, Myanmar, Cambodia, AGOA countries for mass apparel as well as from Italy, France, and Spain. The reason for this is the consumers’ growing thrust on high value clothing rather than mass produced low end commodities."
For the past many years, two of the biggest global textile buyers, US and European, have been following the China + 1 or China + many sourcing strategies. Among these +1 or +many would be Asian countries, viz., Bangladesh, Vietnam, India, Sri Lanka. However, recent OTEXA statistics reveal even though US imports from these countries remain the highest they have not clocked in the highest growth rates. Rather imports have enhanced from Turkey, Myanmar, Cambodia, AGOA countries for mass apparel as well as from Italy, France, and Spain. The reason for this is the consumers’ growing thrust on high value clothing rather than mass produced low end commodities.
China’s dominance stays
US apparel imports from China from January-March 2018, at $5802.021 million, were 0.87 per cent higher than in the same period of 2017. In volume
terms, Chinese exports to the US amounted to 2482.089 million SME, an increase of 3.74 per cent during the period under review. In 2017, China’s apparel exports to the US fell 3.17 per cent to $27030.289 million, which was still 33.67 per cent of total apparel imports of the US in terms of value, and 42 per cent in volume. In the first three months of 2018, China’s share remains the highest, but the share seems to be on downfall. In value, China's share in US apparel imports was 30.17 per cent, and in volume, 38 per cent. If experts are to be believed, Chinese imports are set to fall further owing to ongoing tariff and trade wars. Having said that even after an overall 25 per cent tariff increase by the US on imports of Chinese apparel, China will still be far more competitive than its counterparts. Vietnam, Indonesia and India will still remain costly affairs barring Bangladesh, which is set to boost the country’s exports in near term.
Other countries’ share
Vietnam is the second largest apparel supplier to the US. Apparel inports from Vietnam during January-March 2018 were $2858.357 million, an increase of 3.32 per cent compared to the same period in 2017. The US imported garments worth $1356.166 million from Bangladesh during January-March 2018, a drop of 0.92 per cent. In 2017, imports from Bangladesh were down by 4.46 per cent. The fourth largest supplier to the US market, Indonesia, has fell further 5.78 per cent to $1149.891 million. In 2017, imports were Indonesia were down 3 per cent. While India’s share remained stagnant. During January-March 2018, US imports of apparel from India at $1036.066 million, were marginally lower by 0.79 per cent, compared to CPLY. In 2017, India’s apparel exports to the US registered an increase of 1.17 per cent.
Emerging sourcing destinations
Latest statistics indicate Cambodia can emerge as an important apparel sourcing destination for the US. While it offers the lowest prices, it does not have the capacities to match the demand of the US buyers. US imports from Cambodia went up 12.52 per cent to $587.715 million. In volume terms too, imports registered a similar increase of 12.75 per cent to 262.845 million SME. US imports from Myanmar are quite negligible but growing at a fast pace. During January-March 2018, US apparel imports from Myanmar amounted to $33.785 million. Moreover, there has been an increased sourcing pattern from Turkey over the years. During January-March, US apparel imports from Turkey at $147.996 million were 21.75 per cent higher than in the CPLY. In 2017, the US imported apparel worth US$ 526.546 million from Turkey, which were 11.51 per cent higher than in 2016.
Egypt also indicated high demand. During January-Marcy 2018, imports from Egypt were up 15.78 per cent, to $203.355. In 2017, imports from Egypt at $726.547 climbed 5.13 per cent compared to 2016. Imports from Italy rose 20.52 per cent during the first three months of 2018. Imports from France recorded a growth of 11.24 per cent, to $41.756 million. Top exporting countries from AGOA include: Kenya, Lesotho, Madagascar, Mauritania, Morocco, Ethiopia and Tanzania. While most of these countries registered double-digit export growth to the US this year, Ethiopia’s apparel exports grew 101.58 per cent during January-March 2018. US buyers imported apparel worth $21.955 million from Ethiopia.
Currently estimated at $110 billion, the Indian textile industry is likely to grow to $250 billion in the next two years. The country currently exports textiles worth $40 billion every year.
The last two years have witnessed a new surge of optimism in the textile sector as the centre has announced capital investment subsidy in segments such as garment, weaving and technical textile to help the sector. Rebate on state levies have been introduced to promote exports and additional 10 per cent subsidy on made ups and garment segments, leading to home textile industry getting a 25 per cent capital investment subsidy on new machines.
Textile companies across India are expanding their operations by entering into knitted fabric, or diversifying into denim fabric segment or into allied categories. Others are enjoying good export growth, not impacted by Indian market conditions. Few others are creating a niche with their focused products or target market. The growing demand of polyester is another big reason behind this expansion. A look at some of these ongoing expansion plans of the companies:
Sintex Group: The Sintex Group is globally recognised manufacturer of structured fabrics for high-end fashion shirting. The group’s fibre-to-fabric facility 
at Kalol is one of the largest weaving units in India. It is setting up one of India’s largest compact yarn facilities with one million spindles, to be commissioned in a phased manner. The group commenced operations of Phase I comprising 3.06 lakh spindles spinning superior quality compact yarn for weaving and knitting operations during 2016-17.
Morarjee Textiles Ltd: Morarjee Mills has undertaken a backward integration project to integrate the manufacturing processes and reduce dependence on vendors of yarn and weaved fabric.The expansion project comprises expansion of the spinning facility by 40,128 spindles, weaving capacity increased by 112 looms, printing capacity enhanced by 78 lakh meters per annum, and installation of ‘Ready for Dyeing’ (RFD) machinery.
Nitin Spinners Ltd: Nitin Spinners is one of the leading producers of 100% cotton yarn and knitted fabrics at its plants at Hamirgarh in the Bhilwara district of Rajasthan. The company is setting up an integrated textiles unit with facilities from spinning to processing as a greenfield project. The unit will have the capability to manufacture all types of processed fabrics to meet the complete requirements of apparel manufacturers.
Sutlej Textiles and Industries: Sutlej Textiles and Industries is setting up a greenfield project to manufacture polyester staple fibre by recycling of pet bottles at Samba in Jammu & Kashmir. The company is setting up a recycled PSF plant of 80 MT/day capacity with product range of raw white recycle fibre & black recycle fibre. The project costing Rs. 110 crores is expected to be completed by the second quarter of 2020.
Sutlej has also invested around Rs. 51 crores in the first nine months of 2018-19 towards technology upgradation and debottlenecking. This will result in further improvement in efficiency and sustaining plant utilization.
Indian synthetic yarn exports haven’t grown substantially.
The industry is globally uncompetitive in terms of prices, compared to China, Korea, Thailand, Taiwan, Indonesia and Malaysia.
As the share of domestic sales in synthetic yarn is substantially more than exports, the industry has had much less of a benefit from a falling rupee.
The industry has become entirely global and prices are based on international market comparisons. This is also a period of slacker demand.
PTA/ MEG and benzene are crude oil derivatives and have seen a price rise of 25 per cent to 30 per cent and 30 per cent to 35 per cent respectively in six months. Demand has also been poor. Be it spinning, weaving or even finished products, the synthetic yarn value chain has been unable to forward the price rise to buyers.
Imports are turning unviable and have slowed. Also, the market has turned volatile.
An increase in crude oil prices has led to a great rise in its derivative petrochemicals, polymers, plastic-making raw material and feedstock like naphtha.
The price increase in the international market for all petrochemicals, solvents and polymers has been sharp since April.
India’s synthetic yarn exports grew in 2017-18 by about five per cent.
Must Garments is a manufacturer and supplier of high-quality garments.
It supplies products to some top brands like JC Penney, Walmart, Macy’s, Target, Ann Taylor and Amazon. It has manufacturing units in Bangladesh, Jordan and Oman that manufacture over 60 million pieces a year.
Must has invested heavily in RFID production technology and nanotech and foam dyeing for its wet processing. Some of these efforts have brought about as much as 98 per cent savings in water and huge savings in energy and chemicals that are used in the production of its garments.
In the face of inflation of wages, energy and food and commodities, automation and investment in technology has become the biggest opportunity and the need of the apparel industry considering how labor-intense the industry is.
Must manufactures goods in Bangladesh and the Middle East. The new US policies were helpful in some ways, but not in others. In the Middle East, there are no likely TPL extensions possible. Hence, the duty-free status will go away in a lot of the countries like Bahrain and Oman and now the company is moving to Jordan which has a more stable FTA. On the other hand, pulling out of TPP perhaps put the brakes on the possible duty-free status in Vietnam, which might assist the company in the long term.
