India's textile industry is facing significant challenges due to the rising prices of fibers, both natural and synthetic. Higher costs are disrupting supply chain, affecting domestic production, and impacting export competitiveness. The financial impact of escalating fiber prices is evident in industry data.

The depth of the challenge

Cotton prices: Cotton, a primary raw material for the textile industry, has seen a significant rise in prices. According to the Cotton Association of India, domestic cotton prices have risen over 30 per cent in the past year reaching a record high of Rs 65,000 per candy. International cotton prices have also seen a significant rise, making imports less attractive.

Table: Cotton price trends

Man-made fiber costs: The prices of man-made fibers, including polyester and viscose, have also witnessed a sharp increase of almost 20 per cent due to rising crude oil and petrochemical prices. The overall production cost of textiles has increased by an estimated 15-20 per cent, squeezing profit margins for manufacturers.

Table: Man-fade fiber price trends

Impact on exports: The rising input costs have affected the competitiveness of Indian textiles in the global market. Export growth has slowed down almost 5 per cent, with some markets showing a decline in demand for Indian products. The higher prices are being passed on to consumers, leading to a decrease in demand for textiles in the domestic market.

Table: Price trends of key fibers

Impact across textile sector

Indeed, the rise in input costs as affected both producers and consumers alike. Small and Medium Enterprises in the textile sector, which account for a significant portion of production, are the hardest hit. Many are struggling to cope with the increased costs and are facing reduced orders and potential closures. As Ramesh Kumar, President of the Textile Manufacturers Association explains, “The unprecedented increase in fiber prices is putting immense pressure on the textile industry. We urge the government to take immediate steps to stabilize prices and provide support to the sector."

Spinning mills that convert raw fibers into yarn, are facing a squeeze on their profit margins. The higher cost of raw materials is forcing them to either raise yarn prices or cut production. Garment manufacturers are also feeling the pinch as the cost of fabrics and yarns increases. This is leading to higher prices for finished garments, impacting consumer demand.

Exporters too are finding it difficult to maintain their competitiveness in the global market. The higher production costs are making Indian textiles less attractive compared to those from other countries. As textile exporter laments, “We are losing orders to competitors from Bangladesh and Vietnam due to the higher prices of Indian textiles. The government needs to intervene to make our exports more competitive."

And as for consumers, the rising prices of clothing and other textile products are impacting their purchasing power. Many are opting for cheaper alternatives or postponing their purchases.

Ripple effects across the supply chain

The impact of rising fiber prices is not limited to a single segment of the industry. It is creating a ripple effect across the entire textile supply chain. Cotton farmers for example, are benefiting from higher cotton prices, but they also face challenges such as increased input costs and weather-related risks. Traders and processors are facing difficulties in managing inventory and pricing due to volatile fiber prices. And retailers are grappling with higher wholesale prices, which they are forced to pass on to consumers, potentially impacting sales.

Meanwhile, the government and industry are taking steps to address the challenges posed by rising fiber prices. The government has announced measures to support the textile industry, including providing financial assistance to SMEs and promoting the use of alternative fibers. The industry is focusing on improving efficiency, reducing costs, and exploring new markets to mitigate the impact of rising fiber prices.

The bootmline is, the Indian textile industry is facing a challenging period due to the complex interplay of rising fiber prices, global market dynamics, and supply chain disruptions. While the government and industry are taking steps to address these challenges, the road to recovery is likely to be long and complex. The industry's ability to adapt, innovate, and collaborate will be crucial in navigating this turbulent period and ensuring its continued growth and success.

Manjunath Bhandary, Member of Legislative Council, announced that the Karnataka state cabinet has approved a Rs 270 million textile park project in Karkala, Udupi.

To be developed on a PPP model, the textile park was initially proposed by BS Yediyurappa, former Chief Minister in 2020-21. The foundation for the project was laid in March 2023 by V Sunil Kumar, Past Minister for Energy, Kannada, and Culture.

Upon completion, the park will become a significant hub for textile production in Karnataka, contributing to both employment and economic growth in the region. The park is expected to attract investment and enhance local production capacity, making it a key part of the state's industrial development strategy.

Being held from Sep 12-16 at Shilpakala Vedika, Hitec City in Hyderabad, the Silk India Handloom Expo 2024 celebrates India's vibrant handloom tradition by showcasing a range of intricate and exquisite handcrafted fabrics from across the country.

Organised by Desi Kalaa in association with Bengal Handloom Art, the event brings together artisans, weavers, designers, and textile enthusiasts under one roof. The expo was formally inaugurated by Prerana Simha, Counselor- Domestic Violence in association with Racha konda Commissioner ate, Women Safety Wing (SHE Teams) & International Political Psychologist, Dr Sudha Jain, Msindia Asia Pacific & Socialite along with organizers Jeetender Tyagi and Somnath Bowmik.

More than just a showcase, the Silk India Handloom Expo is a platform to honor the efforts and expertise of the artisans who have dedicated their lives to preserving these art forms. Beyond being just creators of fabric, these weavers are custodians of India’s national identity and its cultural heritage, says Dr Jain.

With more 100 stalls participating in this expo, it promotes sustainable fashion. It highlights the critical need to support and sustain the handloom industry, which provides livelihoods to millions of families across the country, add Tyagi and Bowmik.

In this expo, renowned master weavers from across are Indian showcasing their art in weaving the Banarasisaree, Bhagalpuri silk, Bangalore Silk, Chennai silk, Mysore silk, Dharmavaram, Pochampally, Jamdani, Lenin cotton, Tussar, Vishnupuri silk, Dress material, Chanderi, etc.

A global brand known for premium athletic wear and outerwear, Lolë has acquired the leading company in cycling and sports equipment, Louis Garneau Sports. A significant milestone in Lolë’s growth, this strategic move strengthens the brand’s position in the global sportswear market.

Todd Steele, CEO, Lolë, says, this acquisition allows the brand to expand its product range and deepen its commitment to innovation, quality, and performance.

Founded in 1983 by Louis Garneau and Monique Arsenault, Louis Garneau Sports began as a small operation in a garage and has since grown into a renowned company in the cycling world. With this acquisition, Lolë will leverage Louis Garneau Sports' expertise to create innovative new collections, catering to the growing demand from sports and outdoor enthusiasts.

Lolë is a global brand specialising in elevated activewear, athleisure, and outerwear that seamlessly transitions from the studio to the street. Designed in Montreal, Lolë focuses on thoughtful consumption, using high-quality materials built to last season after season. Lolë’s products are available in over 1,500 retail locations worldwide, in Lolë Ateliers, and online at lolelife.com.

For the 2023-24 crop year, India’s cotton exports are projected to increase by 80 per cent to approximately 28 lakh bales (170 kg each). This rise is driven by higher demand from key markets such as Bangladesh and Vietnam. According to the Cotton Association of India (CAI), India’s cotton exports by Aug-end amounted to 27 lakh bales.

India’s cotton imports also rose during the year to 16.40 lakh bales compared to 12.50 lakh bales the previous year. Atul Ganatra, President, CAI, reports, as of September 30, 2024, cotton’s closing stocks are estimated to decline to 23.32 lakh bales from 28.90 lakh bales a year ago. Cotton consumption for the season is expected to be around 317 lakh bales, with consumption until the end of August estimated at 291 lakh bales.

The estimated pressing figures for the 2023-24 season have been revised to 323.03 lakh bales from the earlier estimate of 317.70 lakh bales, due to higher-than-expected supplies from Maharashtra and Gujarat. Supplies till August-end were estimated at 362.18 lakh bales.

In terms of cotton planting, data from the Agriculture Ministry indicates, the area under cotton cultivation declined to 112.13 lakh hectares (lh), down from 123.39 lh a year ago. The decrease is primarily noted in major cotton-growing states like Gujarat, Maharashtra, Telangana, Rajasthan, Punjab, and Haryana. However, Karnataka and Odisha have experienced slight increases in cotton acreage.

In Maharashtra, cotton cultivation decreased to 40.75 lh from 42.22 lh last year. Gujarat's area declined to 23.62 lh from 26.79 lh, while Telangana’s cotton area also contracted to 17.39 lh from 18.01 lh. Madhya Pradesh, Haryana, and Rajasthan also show reductions in cotton acreage. In contrast, the area under cotton cultivation in Karnataka has increased to 6.74 lh from 6.60 lh, and Odisha saw a marginal rise to 2.36 lh from 2.34 lh.

The political instability in Bangladesh offers India a chance to capture a larger market share in the global textile and apparel industry as companies look to relocate production. Reports suggest that orders worth billions from major buyers in Europe and the US are already being redirected to Indian textile firms. c A key supplier of cotton yarn and fabrics to Bangladesh, India is affected by the crisis. Around 25 per cent of Bangladesh’s manufacturing facilities are owned by Indian companies, and both Indian and foreign firms operating there face concerns over production delays and market shortages. This has caused global brands to reevaluate their supply chains.

The world’s third-largest clothing exporter in 2022, Bangladesh relies heavily on its textile and garment industries, which make up 92 per cent of its merchandise exports. However, recent floods and power shortages have worsened production challenges, prompting global buyers to explore alternative hubs. Key Indian garment export centers like Tirupur, Ludhiana, Surat, Jaipur, and Noida are emerging as promising alternatives. Companies like Arvind Mills and Raymond are among the potential beneficiaries.

India’s RMG sector stands to benefit from both domestic demand and increased exports, as Western retailers restock and supply chains diversify under the China+1 strategy. Indian RMG exports to the US have grown, with the country accounting for nearly 60 per cent of India’s textile exports. Rising wages in Bangladesh and its upcoming loss of Least Developed Country (LDC) status in 2026 further position India as a competitive alternative.

However, India faces challenges, such as outdated labor laws and high logistics costs. A recent report shows that India’s textile exports have declined by 7.87 per cent over the past five years. To seize this opportunity, India must align its product offerings with global needs, negotiate trade agreements with key markets, and improve its infrastructure.

The esteemed Italian knit-fabric manufacturer renowned for its Sensitive Fabrics range, Euro jersey is ramping up its sustainability efforts. In the past year, Euro jersey generated approximately €76.7 million in economic value and distributed around €73 million, underscoring its positive impact on stakeholders and the local community.

Since 2007, Euro jersey has been a pioneer in advancing sustainable practices within the fashion industry.

Last July, the company achieved a significant milestone by becoming the first to earn the voluntary Made Green in Italy certification. Introduced by Italian authorities, this certificationevaluates and communicates the environmental impact of products.

In its newly released Footprint Report 2023, Euro jersey details its progress and future goals concerning environmental and social responsibility. The report highlights notable achievements and outlines ongoing commitments to sustainability.

A key development for 2024 is Euro jersey’s partnership with Humana People to People Italia Onlus. This collaboration will focus on sustainability within the textile supply chain and waste reduction. It includes organising training and webinars for employees on environmental and social issues and promoting sustainable consumption practices. Since September, eco boxes for collecting used clothing have been placed in production areas to encourage staff participation.

The company has also made strides in improving thermal efficiency. In 2023, Euro jersey saved 643,000 cubic meters of methane gas, thanks to upgrades to its thermal power plant and increased use of renewable energy sources. Additionally, photovoltaic solar panels installed in 2008 and 2019, with a new system added in 2023, now supply 5% of the company’s annual energy needs.

Water conservation has been another focus, with technological innovations introduced to minimize waste and lessen the environmental impact of production. The Eco print printing technique, adopted since 2010, has reduced water consumption for printed fabrics by 60% by eliminating the steaming and finishing stages.

Euro jersey has also joined Sistema Moda Italia's Retex Green Consortium to recover and reuse fabric waste within the Sensitive Fabrics supply chain.

The de minimis provision, a trade rule dating back to the 1930s, allows goods valued under a certain threshold (currently $800) to enter the U.S. without paying duties or undergoing the usual scrutiny applied to larger shipments. While intended to streamline low-value imports, this loophole has increasingly been exploited, particularly by e-commerce giants like Shein and Temu, to flood the U.S. market with cheap goods, often from China.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) has been vocal about the detrimental effects of this practice on the U.S. textile and apparel industry, citing job losses, the influx of potentially illegal or unsafe products, and the undermining of U.S. trade remedies.

Key impacts of the new measures

In a significant move aimed at curbing the abuse of the de minimis provision, the White House announced a series of executive actions on September 13, 2024. These include:

• Rulemaking to restrict de minimis for goods subject to trade remedies: This directly impacts Chinese e-commerce platforms that have been circumventing tariffs imposed on certain Chinese goods, notably impacting the textile and apparel sector which sees 70% of its imports from China subject to Section 301 tariffs.

• Enhanced data collection on de minimis shipments: This measure will improve transparency and aid in identifying potentially problematic imports.

• Global exclusion of trade-sensitive items from de minimis: This proposal, if implemented, could significantly reduce the volume of textile and apparel goods entering the U.S. under de minimis, making it easier to detect illicit products and enforce trade laws.

• Increased textile and apparel procurement by the U.S. government: This initiative aims to support the domestic industry by boosting demand for U.S.-made goods.

Impact analysis

• US Apparel Imports: The measures are expected to decrease the volume of apparel imports, particularly from China, entering through the de minimis channel. This could lead to higher prices for consumers but may also create opportunities for domestic manufacturers to regain market share.

• E-commerce: E-commerce platforms, especially those heavily reliant on de minimis shipments from China, will likely face challenges. They may need to adjust their pricing strategies, diversify their supply chains, or face increased scrutiny from U.S. authorities.

• Shein & Temu: These Chinese e-commerce giants, known for their ultra-fast fashion model and low prices enabled partly by de minimis, will be significantly impacted. They may need to rethink their business models to remain competitive in the U.S. market.

Data Points

• US apparel imports: Totaled $93.3 billion in 2023, with China accounting for 32.6%

• US e-commerce: Accounted for 14.7% of total retail sales in 2023

• Apparel e-commerce: Represented 36.7% of total U.S. apparel sales in 2023

• Shein & Temu imports: While exact figures are not publicly available, estimates suggest they account for a significant portion of de minimis shipments, potentially in the billions of dollars annually

Impact on Shein & Temu:

• Direct Hit: These companies have thrived due to the de minimis provision, offering a vast array of inexpensive apparel with rapid shipping times. The new rules pose a direct threat to their business models. • Adaptation or decline: Shein and Temu will need to adapt quickly, potentially by establishing US-based warehouses or diversifying their sourcing. Failure to do so could lead to a significant decline in their US market share.

• Transparency & compliance: The increased scrutiny on de minimis shipments will also force these companies to be more transparent about their supply chains and ensure compliance with labor and safety standards.

The White House's actions represent a significant step towards addressing the long-standing concerns about the de minimis rule. While the full impact on US apparel imports and e-commerce remains to be seen, it is clear that this will lead to a major shift in the industry. The changes are likely to benefit domestic manufacturers, promote fairer trade practices, and potentially encourage a more sustainable approach to fashion consumption. However, it also poses a significant challenge for e-commerce giants like Shein and Temu, who will need to adapt or face a significant decline in their US operations.

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) has expressed cautious optimism over the White House's recent announcement of executive actions designed to curb de minimis shipments. While acknowledging these actions as a "step forward", NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas emphasized the urgent need for a more comprehensive solution to address the abuse of the de minimis provision.

The White House's announcement included rulemaking to limit de minimis treatment for imported products subject to U.S. trade remedies and penalties, and a requirement for additional information on de minimis shipments. These measures aim to mitigate the impact of de minimis, a trade provision that allows low-value shipments to enter the U.S. without paying duties or taxes.

However, Glas stressed that the de minimis loophole has caused "severe demand destruction" in the U.S. textile industry, facilitating the influx of cheap, often illegal imports that undercut American jobs and manufacturing. She called on Congress and the administration to work together to "immediately close this disastrous loophole once and for all."

The NCTO also supports the administration's call for the global exclusion of trade-sensitive items, including textiles and apparel, from de minimis treatment. This would help reduce the volume of de minimis goods, making it easier to detect illicit products like fentanyl. Additionally, the NCTO applauded the administration's directive on developing a plan for immediate textile and apparel procurement, which is seen as critical to the industry's survival.

Kim Glas, President and CEO of the National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), responded to the White House’s recent announcement of executive actions aimed at curbing de minimis shipments and enforcing stronger domestic procurement measures.

Glas praised the administration's decision to address the de minimis loophole, which has long harmed the US textile industry. She highlighted that the announced rulemaking would limit de minimis treatment for products under US trade remedies, including Section 301 tariffs. This reform is seen as a critical first step in tackling the issue.

The NCTO has been urging the government to close the loophole that has allowed a flood of low-cost, potentially illegal imports to enter the US market. Glas emphasized the urgency of expediting the rulemaking process, calling it essential for protecting American jobs and the textile manufacturing sector. She also noted that half of the 4 million daily de minimis shipments are textile and apparel goods, which underscores the loophole's damaging impact on the industry.

Glas reiterated the need for comprehensive reform, urging Congress and the administration to work together to eliminate the loophole completely. She warned of the national security implications, pointing to the US textile industry's role as a key supplier to the military and in personal protective equipment (PPE) production.

Additionally, Glas applauded the administration’s recent efforts in enhancing enforcement against illegal textile and apparel imports, as well as its plan for immediate procurement of textile goods. She acknowledged the Department of Homeland Security and US Customs and Border Protection for their ongoing commitment to addressing these challenges.

The NCTO will continue to advocate for swift action, aiming to prevent further plant closures and job losses in the industry.