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Researchers from University of Cambridge, UK, including one of Indian origin, have designed a super strong, stretchy artificial spider silk, composed almost entirely of water. The fibres, which resemble miniature bungee cords as they can absorb large amounts of energy, are sustainable, non-toxic and can be made at room temperature, and it may be used to make eco-friendly textiles and sensors.
The fibres are spun from a soupy material called a hydrogel, which is 98 per cent water. The remaining 2 per cent of the hydrogel is made of silica and cellulose, both naturally available materials, held together in a network by barrel-shaped molecular "handcuffs" known as cucurbiturils. The chemical interactions between different components enable long fibres to be pulled from the gel.
The fibres are pulled from the hydrogel, forming long, extremely thin threads a few millionths of a metre in diameter. After roughly 30 seconds, the water evaporates, leaving a fibre which is both strong and stretchy. Darshil Shah, from Cambridge says although their fibres are not as strong as the strongest spider silks, they can support stresses in the range of 100 to 150 megapascals, which is similar to other synthetic and natural silks.
The fibres are capable of self-assembly at room temperature, and are held together by supramolecular host- guest chemistry, which relies on forces other than covalent bonds, where atoms share electrons. They think that this method of making fibres could be a sustainable alternative to current manufacturing methods, added Shah.
The strength of the fibres exceeds that of other synthetic fibres, such as cellulose-based viscose and artificial silks, as well as natural fibres such as human or animal hair. In addition to its strength, the fibres also show very high damping capacity, meaning that they can absorb large amounts of energy, similar to a bungee cord. There are few synthetic fibres which have this capacity but high damping is one of the special characteristics of spider silk.
At Texworld this week, USA, global leader in odor elimination and smart fabric technology solutions Noble Biomaterials, will present a variety of high-performance textiles made with XT2 ® anti-odor technology.
The company will offer natural textile alternative to polyester often used in technical knits and activewear brands. Lenzings' sustainable fibers offer moisture transfer and comfort, and when blended with the anti-odor benefits of Noble's silver-based technology, provide an optimum textile for active-lifestyle applications that can be washed less frequently and maintain freshness.
Joel Furey, Founder and CCO, Noble Biomaterials says, “Noble has a deep commitment to sustainability and a rich history in fiber and textile development. The company’s goal is to consistently innovate new textiles and technologies that improve people's lives every day.”
The company engages in numerous sustainability initiatives, including recovery and recycling of silver, addressing sourcing, production, and product end of-life. In addition to its commitment to the bluesign® system, Noble's products are OekoTex certified. Its XT2 technologies use the properties of silver to provide long-lasting odor protection. Unlike topical finishes or treatments, the silver is inherent and permanent to the yarn and will not wash out or wear off lasting the life of the product.
Noble will participate in a panel discussion with Lenzing Fibers, Samil Spinning and Buhler Quality Yarns at Texworld. Moreover, to present its latest textiles and technologies Noble will also be joining the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market, July 26-29 in Salt Lake City.
Noble Biomaterials, is a global leader in bacterial management solutions for soft surface applications. The company is known for producing unconventional material technologies designed for mission critical applications in the performance apparel, healthcare, industrial, and developing wearable technology markets.
China is the largest global supplier to Sri Lanka. In 2016, 42 per cent of Lanka’s global imports was from China. From 2007 to 2016 Sri Lanka's total bilateral trade with China increased 363 per cent and from 2015 to 2016 there was a 11 per cent year on year increase.
The two countries are now discussing a free trade agreement, which would enable more mutually beneficial trade for both countries and offer potential to redress the trade deficit. Lanka's top exports to China last year were tea, coconut, footwear parts, apparel and rubber tires. Top imports from China last year were mobile phones, boats and vessels, handmade fabrics and petroleum. In general, exports to China have been on an upward trend, surging 568 per cent since 2007.
China signed a deal with Sri Lanka late last year to further develop the strategic port of Hambantota and build a huge industrial zone nearby, a key part of Beijing’s ambitions to create a modern-day Silk Road across Asia. Sri Lanka hopes to expand its export basket by producing medical equipment, using its comparative advantages in textile and rubber sectors. Its strategic location has been a crucial factor in its engagement with other countries.
After 21 years, executive vice-president John Daniels will retire from AATCC in March 2018. In 1974, Daniels had joined AATCC as laboratory manager, working with numerous test method development committees in developing new methods, improving existing test methods, and managing the development of technical symposia. After five years in this position, he moved on to a successful career in the textile industry.
During his tenure as executive vice president, AATCC began exhibiting at major global textile trade shows; instituted online webinars and online test method training; launched international test method trainers in numerous countries; instituted global membership representatives for the convenience of international members; and developed and launched proficiency testing programs.
The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) provides test method development, quality control materials, education, and professional networking for a global audience. Under Daniels’ guidance, AATCC weathered two major textile recessions, when many US textile manufacturing and apparel jobs were lost. He positioned the association to weather these difficult times, and remain financially and professionally sound.
In 2016, with help and tremendous support from members and non-members alike, the AATCC foundation reached the million-dollar mark in contributions, and now provides 13 scholarships focused on textile design, merchandising, sciences, and engineering.
China posted a surge in exports and imports in June. In its fourth successive month of growth China’s exports increased11.3 per cent year-on-year in dollar terms and imports were also strong, with year-on-year growth of 17.2 per cent. Exports to the US, EU and Japan were the main reason for the acceleration as they rose 15.8 per cent compared with 9.7 per cent in May. Exports to non-G3 countries were relatively sluggish at 4.7 per cent compared with growth of 2.8 per cent in May.
June’s exports were driven by sharp improvements in electronics and machinery and high-tech products while exports of labor-intensive goods such as toys, garments and furniture were up 6.2 per cent. China has been performing better than expected, fuelling hopes the world’s top trader in goods and a key driver of global growth was stirring after a years-long growth slowdown.
However, there are indications of slowing growth in the Chinese economy as it deals with weaker demand and excess industrial capacity left over from a debt-fuelled infrastructure boom. China’s economy expanded last year at its weakest rate in more than a quarter of a century. Weak growth is a major concern for policymakers who prefer stability and it complicates their efforts to retool the economy into one driven by consumer demand rather than state investment and exports.
Bangladesh's exports to Russia jumped by 47.83 per cent in the last fiscal year. Annual exports to Russia were $314.29 million in fiscal year ’16. Bangladesh sees Russia as one of the major contributors to its economic growth. The countries are cooperating in nuclear energy, telecommunication and power generation. The volume of bilateral trade between Russia and Bangladesh crossed $1.4 billion in 2016, almost double since 2012.
Bangladesh has been traditionally exporting seafood, jute and jute products, tea, leather, home textiles and readymade garments to Russia. Russia’s exports to Bangladesh are dominated by cereals (around 58 per cent), machinery and mechanical equipment, metals, minerals and fertilizers, chemical and forestry products.
Despite bilateral trade figures remaining rather negligible, cooperation in the energy and power sector has widened considerably in the recent past. Currently, around 20 per cent of Bangladesh’s total electricity output is provided by two power plants, both constructed with Soviet assistance in the 1970s. Cooperation between Bangladesh and Russia is growing, especially in government-to-government sectors.
African countries enjoy duty-free and quota-free access for certain goods, including garments, to the US under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA). In 2016, garment exports from 39 sub-Saharan nations stood at 2.6 billion dollars. Shipments may cross the three billion mark this year. One of the major reasons for booming garment exports from the African nations is investment by Bangladeshi garment makers to avail duty privilege under the AGOA.
Bangladesh will not be allowed duty benefits to developing and developed countries once the country graduates to the middle-income bracket. So, in recent years, nearly a dozen Bangladeshi garment makers have invested either in joint ventures or individually in different African countries, especially Ethiopia and Kenya.
Ironically the upward trend of garment exports from Africa, thanks in part to Bangladeshi investors, poses a threat to Bangladesh’s position in the global apparel trade. Bangladesh holds the second position. Over the next decade, should this scenario play out, East Africa's export volumes could approach countries such as Mexico or Pakistan on apparel industry league tables. The impact of the upward trend of exports from AGOA nations has already started to show on Bangladesh's apparel exports: for the first time in 15 years, the growth was not even in single digits in 2016-17.
La Martina, a luxury fashion label from Argentina, with stores in Delhi and Hyderabad is in the affordable luxury segment. Launched in India in 2014 brand has seen an annual growth of 20 to 25 per cent a year. Both the stores are franchised.
The label founded in 1985, is close to polo and began with making saddles. All La Martina bags and polo shirts are recognizable because of their logo: two polo players crossing their rackets. The label is the outfitter of different renowned polo teams like the Argentinian national team or the university teams of Harvard, Yale, Oxford and Cambridge.
The bags, shoulder bags and purses have clear shapes underlined by the precise stitches which are visible at the seam. The decorative golden pendant is formed like a stirrup. A leather bag by La Martina is a symbol of precision because the solid leather structure and the lockstitch seam underline the perfect symmetry. Larger bags and totes by La Martina are available in solid cotton or synthetic leather as well.
Italian clothing and accessories brand Benetton plans to open 30-35 new stores and to renovate 30-35 stores as per their latest store design concept, On Canvas. With the expansion, Benetton will close down a few non-profitable stores in metros and Tier II cities. Renovation of identified stores will begin region-wise from last quarter of this fiscal. Animesh Ikshit, Vice President Projects & VM, Benetton India, says the company has targeted 60-70 On Canvas stores, out of which 50 per cent will be renovated while the rest will be new stores. Most of the new stores will open in Grade A and B towns. As multichannel is giving us business, the need of offering store experiences becomes paramount as a brand.
Amongst 360 EBOs in India today, Benetton treats five stores as premium in terms of size and premium-ness. The brand is in the process of identifying 35 such store under the premium canopy.
The brand is also planning to take in-store digital interfaces to the next level. Ikshit says the brand only consider video walls as digital element. As analytics play an important role in e-commerce, digital interfaces should be able to provide that kind of engagement and returns. However, in India it’s still in a nascent stage and take at least a few years to make a debut.
"Owing to its low cost capabilities, Ethiopia is slowly turning into a dynamic apparel-sourcing hub. Manufacturers from China, South Korea, India and other countries have opened new plants in the Africa’s second most populous nation while a growing number of European and US brands are sourcing garments from there."
Owing to its low cost capabilities, Ethiopia is slowly turning into a dynamic apparel-sourcing hub. Manufacturers from China, South Korea, India and other countries have opened new plants in the Africa’s second most populous nation while a growing number of European and US brands are sourcing garments from there.
The connectivity a big plus
The biggest factor in its favour is the planned opening of a new railway line to Djibouti, located on the Horn of Africa in the Arabian Sea. The railway will facilitate transport of goods from the landlocked country's industrial areas, like the Bole Lemi Industrial Park, an hour's drive from the capital Addis Ababa. Opened in 2015, the sprawling 150-hectare park is bustling with Chinese, Taiwanese and South Korean production facilities, conveniently clustering factories for textiles, apparel products and leather shoes in one area.
At a factory operated by Shin Textile Solutions, a South Korean company, workers sit at long rows of machines sewing mainly sportswear. According to the general manager, the plant's entire output is exported, with about 60 per cent going to Europe, 20 per cent to the US and the remaining to Asia.
Government’s initiatives
Ethiopia's main exports include coffee, gold and leather products, but the government is stepping up efforts to develop new industries. Arkebe Oqubay, Special Adviser to Prime Minister Hailemariam Desalegn, has pledged to transform Ethiopia from a farm economy into an industrial powerhouse. As part of its efforts to turn the country into an thriving, middle-income economy by 2025, the government has been building industrial parks. The newest is Hawassa Industrial Park, a one-hour flight from the capital. Among the 15 companies with manufacturing facilities there is US-based PVH Corp.
PVH's 280 employees produce garments for a number of international brands including Calvin Klein, and export them to Europe and the US. Ethiopia's low labour costs make it an attractive garment-sourcing destination, according to the company. The average monthly pay for a factory worker is about $50, compared with $140-160 in Kenya, $70-90 in Bangladesh, $150-170 in Vietnam and $400-500 in China. The country's young, low-wage workforce gives it the potential to grow into a major garment-sourcing hub with a vibrant market.
The inland nation used to depend heavily on trucking, hindering its transition to a more export-oriented economy. But the new railway connecting Addis Ababa to Djibouti will solve this problem. The government has built a distribution center in the Addis Ababa suburb of Mojo, where there is also a train station on the new line. Goods from Ethiopia's industrial parks will be sent to the Port of Djibouti via the center. Previously, it used to take three days to transport goods by truck from Addis Ababa to Djibouti. The railway will cut this to about nine hours.
