FW
Shima Seiki's US design center in Los Angeles, houses several of the company’s computerised machines, including the SWG091N2, which can produce accessories such as hats, scarves, gloves and socks, including toe socks.
Visitors to the design center can also get a demonstration of Shima Seiki’s Apex 3 total fashion system concept, which offers yarn and knit simulation, 3-D virtual models, and patternmaking functions. Designers can choose from a preloaded library of yarns, scan a new yarn into the Apex 3 system or virtually create their own. They can adjust the yarn gauge and view the yarn simulated in a fabric swatch or garment. Users can also start with a reference image and re-create the stitch structures.
There is a trim library as well as an embroidery function, a jacquard function and the kaleidoscope tool, which picks up the colors from a mood board and translates them into different patterns. Virtual swatches and garments can be saved as a JPEG or Illustrator file. The Apex 3 system will also generate a knit code to send to the manufacturer.
Shima Seiki has been making flat knitting equipment for more than 50 years in Japan. About eight years ago, the company began producing apparel.
www.shimaseiki.com/
Certain regions are producing fresh cotton. Areas around Dharangaon in Maharashtra, Amreli district of Saurashtra in Gujarat, Hubli and Kabini Dam in Karnataka, small pockets near Adoni in Andhra Pradesh, and Khargone in Madhya Pradesh are the regions, are witnessing fresh cotton output. Kharif cotton production estimate could be 33.5 million bales for 2015-16 as against 34.62 million bales in 2014-15, a marginal decline because of deficient rains. This is based on sowing until now across India. Indian Cotton Federation (ICF) says total cotton estimates vary between 370 lakh bales to 400 lakh bales of 170 kg a bale for the 2015-16 season.
During the last fortnight, Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) has been able to get consistent sale through its auction and unsold stock was approximately 25 lakh bales, as per the ICF. Even at the very end of the season, since good quality cotton is available to them at market prices, mills have been saved by the CCI this season.
The white fly attack posed a problem in the northern region of Punjab, Haryana, and Rajasthan because of which, Punjab allocated a compensation of Rs 10 crores to the affected farmers. Water shortage in various catchment areas was resolved by the floods in Surashtra, in Gujarat. However, the severe heat conditions that followed the floods, has affected the cotton plants and this apparently is likely to lead to a dip in the yield because of stunted growth of the plants.
Bruckner has come up with new lines and components for textiles, nonwovens and coated, woven and knitted fabric. The company makes machines for coating and finishing textiles, technical textiles, nonwovens and floor coverings.
The German company offers energy-optimised textile finishing machines, high-quality products and advanced technology. The new Ecoline machine has an air-through zone in the first half-zone and an integrated heat-recovery unit. This allows saving of thermal energy and production increases. The dryer is provided with alternating and split-flow air circulating systems ensuring an optimum temperature distribution. All established heating systems are available, gas direct, gas indirect, thermal oil and steam. Almost any kind of woven and knitted fabric can be treated.
In application technology, Bruckner presents a new development for minimum impregnation applications. Functionalisation chemicals are applied with a liquor reservoir. The reservoir can be used almost completely and no chemicals are wasted or disposed of. Impregnation as well as applications on one or both sides is possible.
Due to the little application quantity processes such as drying or curing have to evaporate only a low quantity of water which has clearly a positive effect on energy consumption of the respective dryer.
www.brueckner.com/en/
Production capacity expansion
Buoyed by growth, many companies are investing in new yarn plants now. DAK Americas has announced a significant increase in fibre capacity. The company recently said that an increase in its polyester staple fibre (PSF) capacity of 230 million pounds per year will meet growing demand in America. The new fibre capacity will be installed at DAK’s Pearl River site in Bay St. Louis. DAK says, the project will create 86 new jobs, including positions in operations, maintenance, technical and management. DAK recently also completed a PSF expansion at its Charleston facility, adding 27 million pounds per year of PSF capacity.
Even companies from Brazil, Canada, China, Dubai, Great Britain, India, Israel, Japan, Korea, Mexico and Switzerland, and the United States, have announced their plans to set up or expand textile plants in Georgia, Louisiana, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee and Virginia indicating rising importance of the fibres and yarns made in the USA.
Yarn orders continue increase
America has been witnessing a sustained period of stability with a continuous rise in orders for ring spun yarn and a variety of polyester, blended and open-end yarns. Experts now expect even the fourth quarter to be strong for the spinning industry.
Another reason for stability of the polyester industry is that cotton prices have stabilized, hovering between 60 and 65 cents for some time. As of August 28, 2015, spot cotton quotations for the base quality of cotton —color 41, leaf 4, staple 34, mike 35-36 and 43-49, strength 27.0-28.9, uniformity 81.0-81.9 — in the seven designated markets measured by the US Department of Agriculture averaged 61.30 cents per pound, down from 64.11 cents the previous week and 67.04 cents reported the corresponding period a year ago.
Daily average quotations ranged from a high of 64.17 cents on August 21, 2015 to a low of 59.61 cents on August 26, 2015. Spot transactions reported in the Daily Spot Cotton Quotations for the week ended August 27, 2015 totalled 2,725 bales. This compares to 5,645 bales reported the previous week and 13,668 spot transactions reported the corresponding week a year ago. Total spot transactions for the season were 17,776 bales compared to 21,046 bales the corresponding week a year ago. The ICE October settlement prices ended the week at 63.83 cents, compared to 67.66 cents the previous week.
www.dakamericas.com
Cotton Corporation of India, the government agency that procures the crop at support prices, says the agriculture ministry’s estimate of cotton production is too negative and actual production will only be marginally lower compared to 2014. B K Mishra, Chairman and Managing Director, Cotton Corp says they expect an output of 35 million bales (of 170kg each) in 2015-16, marginally lower than last year’s 35.5 million bales. The first advance estimate by the ministry, pegs India’s cotton output at 33.5 million bales, which is the lowest in five years.
Data from the Agriculture Ministry shows that until now, cotton has been sown in 11.5 million hectares until now, compared with 12.6 million hectares sown in 2014. The June-September South-West monsoon recorded a deficit of 12 per cent till September 23, 2015 as per the India Meteorological Department. Rain-fed cotton growing areas in Telangana, Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh experienced lower than normal rain.
Mishra added that though some crop was damaged due to a white fly pest attack in the northern states (Punjab), and the area under cotton has reduced in states such as Gujarat, the revival of the monsoon in the past few weeks is likely to help the crop in rain-fed areas. Procurement by government agencies such as Cotton Corp., however, may be lower this year because of higher prices of cottonseed and a possibility of exports to Vietnam and Bangladesh.
Physical procurement of cotton at support prices by a sort of ‘deficiency price payment’ system is being considered by the government mentioned Mishra. In this system, the difference between the market price and a predetermined threshold, which is a form of price insurance, would be paid to the farmers.
Sweden’s international fashion giant H&M has been accused of breaking rules in Cambodia by systematically employing people on short term contracts. Workers at some of H&M’s factories in Cambodia say they don’t dare to take sick days off or complain about overtime or low wages for fear of losing their jobs. Some workers also report that if they fall ill they risk losing their jobs.
Short-term contracts stop workers from unions. They dare not protest low wages, dare not refuse working overtime. They don’t even take a day off fearing their contract would not be renewed. H&M says it ensures those who have been working on short-term contracts for two years get a permanent job.
H&M has faced criticism over conditions in overseas factories before as well. There have been allegations of forced overtime, few opportunities to take a break and sexual harassment by its Cambodian sub contractors. H&M is a major player in Cambodia for long. There are no estimates on how many employees at the group’s overseas factories are currently on short-term contracts.
The textile industry in Cambodia employs around 7,30,000 people. H&M is the largest buyer of clothes from the south-east Asian country and works together with around 80 of its factories.
www.hm.com/
Influences from the '70s are coming back in fashion in denim wear, flares, jumpsuits, patches and embroidery are back in trend. Classic designs from the era are being combined with playful elements. Garments like cropped jackets feature distinct wide collars and utility pockets, along with embroidered and beaded patches and contrasting denim washes.
The mid-rise bell-bottom is available with all-over crochet detail, denim appliqué patches or hand-painted drawings. Flirty silhouettes and pastel colors come with the wide-leg, high-waisted flares.
One collection has a two-piece set with denim crop top and high-waist shorts, detailed with layers of pink, lavender and brown piping. The collection features a window motif that appears on chest pockets, pants and as cutouts on dresses. A pair of wide-leg overalls has a series of embroidered windows on the bib.
As designers look to the ’70s, many find inspiration in vintage materials. Denim patchwork pieces are used to create looks based on designs from existing styles. Some brands update a simple pant with a wider leg and design it in denim. Other notable styles are a reinterpreted denim shift dress that is currently in store in a wool fabrication. Details like oversized rivets and frayed edges are an additional nod to the decade.
Telengana is taking steps to help farmers, especially cotton growers, in the state. There has been a series of farmer suicides due to poor rainfall. Cotton growers in the state are also trapped by middlemen. About 1,132 farmers have committed suicide in the state during the last one year and 90 per cent of these are cotton growers.
Warangal, Adialabad, Karimnagar, Nalagonda, Nizamabad are the main cotton growing districts in Telengana facing a farmer suicide problem. Suggestions include increasing the number of cotton purchase centers and of purchase staff, involving the national agricultural cooperative federation in the purchase mechanism and a joint meeting of all stakeholders -- farmers, ginning mill owners and traders.
The aim is to help farmers get a more remunerative price for cotton and not face distress situations, where they contemplate drastic measures. The cotton procurement season begins in October. Last cotton season, Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) had fixed a remunerative price of Rs 4,050 per quintal. There is a proposal that the CCI increase the remunerative prices it offers this cotton season. This appears to be one feasible solution. During this kharif season, cotton growing area in the state has increased by 15 per cent.
The Oeko-Tex standard 100 has cancelled the certification of manufacturers of yarn dyed items in Pakistan. This has halted exports worth millions of dollars to different countries, particularly European Union countries. Most Multan-based exporters have had their Oeko-Tex certificates withdrawn. Multan is the export hub of traditional yarn dyed home textile products. Exporters say, their product is in compliance with Oeko-Tex standards.
Consignments ready to be shipped were offloaded due to the refusal of foreign buyers to accept them. Manufacturers say the certification agency must be persuaded to restore product certification for an interim period to clear current shipments and then re-assess or re-audit the units for further certification.
The Oeko-Tex standard 100 is an independent testing and certification system for textile raw materials, intermediate and end products at all stages of production. Examples for items eligible for certification are raw and dyed or finished yarns, raw and dyed or finished fabrics and knits, ready-made articles, clothing, domestic and household textiles, bed linen, terry cloth items, textile toys and more.
All components of an item have to comply with the required criteria. This covers the outer material, sewing threads, linings, prints etc as well as non-textile accessories such as buttons, zip fasteners and rivets.
https://www.oeko-tex.com/.../oeko_tex_standard_100/oeko_tex_standar...
Houston County and Georgia officials have announced that a Germany-based textile supplier has chosen Perry for its first foray into the North American market. A privately held, family-owned company, Sandler AG, supplies textiles to international manufacturers. The company will generate over 140 jobs with an initial investment of $30 million to Houston County.
Sandler supplies nonwoven textiles such as baby wipes and facial wipes to large companies such as Procter & Gamble with annual sales of about $346 million across the globe. Sandler officials had considered about 120 communities for the plant before deciding on Perry. The development authority’s speculative building at 700 Perry Parkway will be occupied by Sandler AG. This includes the land where the spec building is situated.
The company plans to use the entire 100,000-sq. ft. building, to build additional structures. The company’s CEO, Christian Heinrich Sandler stated that establishing a manufacturing plant in the US was one of the most important steps in their history. He added that establishing themselves in Houston County would allow Sandler to answer to the increasing importance of the North American markets and to account for the growing demand from outside Europe.
