FW
Organiser of Milan Fashion Week, Camera della Moda (CNMI) has increased the number of shows for this edition to 58 including three virtual presentations. CNMI has also extended the back-to-school catwalk program for the women's ready-to-wear collections for Spring/Summer 2025 by an additional day. Despite the absence of Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford, and MSGM this season, the event will welcome eight new designers, both returning and newcomers, compared to February's winter session.
Typically reserved for inauguration and a few other activities, the opening day on September 17will include four shows. The day will begin with a show by Fendi followed by other shows by Marni, Alberta Ferretti, and Iceberg, with the potential for another prestigious name to join the lineup.
This season, Giorgio Armani will organise a double show for his Emporio Armani range on September 19. Having parted ways with his creative director Peter Hawkings, Tom Ford will showcase his collection in a showroom.
One of the young designers to debut on the catwalk, Susan Fang will organise her show alongside Chiccomao, a brand founded by Chinese designer Mao Bao Bao, and Vietnamese designer Phan Dang Hoang. The event will also mark the return of Laura Biagiotti, who previously presented her collection in digital format, as well as young labels like Federico Cina, The Attico, and Andreadamo. The event will end with a digital show from Defaience by Nicola Bacchilega and Jacob Cohen on Sept 23, 2024
Some of the iconic Italian fashion houses to hold their shows at this year’s Milan Fashion Week include Roberto Cavalli and Etro on September 18, Max Mara, Prada, and Moschino on September 19, Tod's, Gucci, Missoni, and Versace on September 20, and Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana, and Bottega Veneta on September 21.
Six months after its acquisition of the German e-tailer Bergfreunde, Decathlon plans to acquire the Spanish e-tailer TradeInn.
Based near Girona in Spain, TradeInn sells sports equipment and clothing online through a dozen specialist sites, including Dive Inn for diving, Goal Inn for football, Bike Inn for cycling, and Runner Inn for running. The e-tailer boasts over 20 million customers worldwide.
As per Iberian media reports, investment company Suma Capital plans to sell its 30 per cent stake in TradeInn. The remaining shares are held by David Martin, founder and CEO along with investor Didac Lee.
Spanish media values TradeInn at over €1 billion. This substantial sum is backed by the company's sales rising by 15 per cent to over €500 million in 2023.
Since Suma Capital acquired a stake in TradeInn at the end of 2015, the company has grown significantly. It currently employs over 500 people, operates a 30,000-square-meter automated warehouse, and serves more than 20 million customers worldwide.
A pioneer in biological technologies for plastic and textile recycling, Carbios has signed an MoU with French textile company Nouvelles Fibers Textiles to supply polyester textiles to the world’s first PET biorecycling plant under construction in Longlaville, France.
The plant will use Carbios' enzymatic depolymerisation technology to recycle 5,000 tons of used textiles annually from 2026 over an initial five-year period. This initiative demonstrates a commitment to textile circularity for a more sustainable industry.
Nouvelles Fibers Textiles, along with partners Andritz Laroche, Pellenc ST, Synergie TLC, and the Tissages de Charlieu group, opened a semi-industrial site in November 2023 with an annual capacity of 1,000 tons. This site, a research center for textile recycling, aims to expand to a 20,000-30,000-ton capacity by 2026. The unit transforms used textiles into high-quality raw materials for various industries by automatically sorting them by composition and eliminating hard points like buttons and zippers.
The biorecycling technology by Carbios breaks down polyester fibers into basic components, which are then used to produce high-quality recycled PET materials, such as fibers for the textile industry. This ‘fiber-to-fiber’ solution aims to make polyester a truly circular fiber on a large scale.
Emmanuel Ladent, CEO, Carbios, states, the collaboration with Nouvelles Fibres Textiles will develop large-scale polyester recycling solutions to catalyse the structuring of collection and preparation infrastructures. Together, both the companies will develop a comprehensive value chain from collection to recycling.
Eric Boël and Etienne Wiroth, Co-Directors, Nouvelles Fibers Textiles, add, as new technologies, such as Carbios' enzymatic depolymerisation and automated sorting, are overcoming deployment obstacles, this collaboration exemplifies an industry that benefits both people and the planet.
German knitwear manufacturer Knit Core plans to launch its first seamless 3D knitwear collection for Autumn-Winter 2024. Founded in 2023 by Luigi Schillaci, the Gomaringen-based company will introduce a range of high-quality, sustainable knitwear pieces produced entirely in Germany.
To be created in partnership with the Nonnenmacher knitting mill in Pliezhausen, the collection combines top-tier materials, creative design, and the seamless 3D knitting expertise of both companies. A standout feature of this collection is its on-demand production model, which prevents overproduction and promotes sustainability.
Besides its own collections, Knit-Core offers a wide array of services, including customised flat knitting training, comprehensive consulting, sample and small batch production, and creative in-house developments in fashion and technical textiles. The company is equipped with eight state-of-the-art Stoll flat knitting machines and two Universal machines, ensuring flexibility and efficiency in meeting diverse customer needs.
With over 20 years of experience in flat knitting, having worked as an application engineer and technical manager for a leading manufacturer of flat knitting machines in both Germany and the USA, Schillaci brings a wealth of expertise to Knit-Core, promising innovative and high-quality solutions.
Beyond knitwear, Knit-Core also designs, develops, and manufactures technical textiles for various applications. The company recently won two awards at the national textile accelerator ;Stoff im Kopf,’ organised by the Center for Entrepreneurship at Reutlingen University, for its modular Made in Germany 3D knitted room dividers. These dividers offer aesthetic solutions for interior design and practical functions like sound absorption, mood lighting, and additional storage space with knitted-in pockets and greenery options.
India's textile sector is set for substantial growth with a 28 per cent budget increase for fiscal year 2024-25. This significant boost underscores the government's commitment to enhancing innovation, productivity, and opportunities within the industry, which is crucial to the nation's economy.
Sanjay Garg, President of the Northern India Textiles Mills Association (NITMA), highlighted that the Union Budget focuses on employment, skilling, and MSMEs. Key measures include the Credit Guarantee Scheme for MSMEs, offering term loans for machinery and equipment without collateral up to Rs 100 crores. This is expected to stimulate investment and growth in the sector.
Increased allocations for cotton procurement, the Amended Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme, the National Technical Textiles Mission, and PM Mitra will further bolster the industry. The enhanced funding for RoDTEP and RoSCTL is timely, aiming to reverse the decline in textile exports.
The budget also introduces a Rs 3,000 monthly incentive per worker for skill development and reduces the duty on raw spandex yarn from 7.5 per cent to 5 per cent, improving the international competitiveness of textile manufacturers.
Overall, these measures are designed to propel the Indian textile sector to new heights. The actual impact will depend on effective implementation and the industry's ability to capitalize on these opportunities.
UK’ leading sustainability exhibition, the Future Fabrics Expo unveiled innovative methods to promote textile recycling and eco-friendly dyeing techniques using lasers and enzymes. The event featured over 10,000 varied textiles and solutions designed to help the fashion industry adopt sustainable materials and move towards circular practices.
Among the exhibitors were the Textile Engineering and Materials Research Group (TEAM) from De Montfort University Leicester (DMU), showcasing collaborations that offer alternative materials and solutions to reduce the environmental impact of textile production and facilitate the industry's transition to circularity.
Professor Jinsong Shen, DMU, along with Loughborough University, highlighted innovations such as laser technology for dyeing textiles. This method significantly reduces energy, water, and chemical consumption compared to traditional techniques. Additionally, biotechnological approaches using enzymes for dyeing textiles provide a sustainable alternative, resulting in energy savings and reduced effluent waste.
Supported by industrial partners such as Camira Fabrics, the Woolmark Company, and Fox Brothers and Co, researchers from DMU and Loughborough University presented a groundbreaking biotechnology approach developed through a BBSRC-funded project. This initiative involves recycling waste wool and wool/bast fiber mixed fabrics, separating flax and hemp fibers from the waste, and recovering dyes in powder form from discarded wool fabrics. The recovered dyes can potentially be used to dye or print new wool fabrics, making mixed textile materials recyclable and reducing landfill waste.
The expo attracted a diverse audience eager to explore environmentally friendly solutions to the challenges facing the fashion industry, particularly the significant environmental footprint of traditional dyeing processes, which consume large amounts of water and energy.
Expressing enthusiasm about showcasing their innovative technologies in the Innovation Hub Zone at this year's Future Fabrics Expo, Professor Jinsong Shen, Head, TEAM-DMU, said, these pioneering innovations demonstrate University’s commitment to promote textile sustainability and support the industry’s shift towards circular practices.
As the Olympic Games approach, a coalition of human rights advocates and major Nike investors is urging the sportswear giant to pay $2.2 million in overdue wages to garment workers in Cambodia and Thailand. The demand, supported by 70 investors managing over $4 trillion in assets, calls out Nike's failure to address two significant labor rights violations.
In Cambodia, the Violet Apparel factory's closure in 2020 left workers without $1.4 million in legally owed wages. In Thailand, an illegal wage theft scheme at the Hong Seng Knitting factory deprived Burmese migrant workers of $800,000. Despite ongoing protests and global pressure, Nike has denied responsibility and ignored evidence of its products being manufactured at these factories.
The investors' resolution, set for discussion at Nike’s September annual meeting, emphasizes the contrast between Nike's substantial marketing expenditures and its refusal to pay workers. Rights groups, investors, and labor advocates continue to press Nike to address these injustices and uphold basic industry standards.
Christie Miedema from the Clean Clothes Campaign highlighted Nike's misplaced priorities, pointing out that the company spent $1 billion on marketing in early 2024 while refusing to pay $2.2 million owed to its workers. This inconsistency undermines Nike's image as a progressive, inclusive brand. Miedema emphasized that paying these workers is the only way for Nike to genuinely demonstrate care for the people in its supply chain.
The coalition demands immediate action from Nike to resolve these wage disputes and demonstrate genuine corporate responsibility.
A pioneer in digital textile printing, Orange O Tec will launch its ‘Made in Bharat’ digital textile printing machine, the Fabpro 1i at the GartexTexprocess exhibition in New Delhi on August 1, 2024.This launch marks Orange O Tec’s transition into a manufacturer of digital textile printing machines .
Orange O Tec has been an importer of digital textile printing machine for over a decade. However, the company-manufactured Fabpro 1i embodies the company’s vision and technical prowess. More than just a product; the machines symbolises Indian engineering excellence and innovation, designed to meet and exceed the high standards demanded by the textile industry.
Developed entirely in India, this cutting-edge machine incorporates advanced technology aimed at boosting productivity and ensuring top-tier print quality. With its Ricoh 8-head production system, the Fabpro 1i achieves an impressive speed of 2,200 linear meters per day, all within a compact design that maintains unparalleled precision.
Complementing this innovation is Orange O Tec’s comprehensive portfolio, offering bespoke digital inkjet printing solutions, software, ink, accessories, and professional services tailored to meet diverse customer needs. The Fabpro 1i is set to redefine standards in efficiency and reliability, providing businesses with a robust solution for their textile printing requirements.
Luxury conglomerate Kering SA has warned of a significant decline in profit during H2, FY24 due to cooling of luxury demand and ongoing challenges in reviving its flagship brand, Gucci.
The Paris-based company reported a 30 per cent decline its recurring operating income during the period compared to the same period last year. This follows a 19 per cent drop in comparable revenue for Gucci in the second quarter, surpassing the 15.9 per cent decline anticipated by analysts.
Despite appointing a new designer last year and distributing new collections more broadly, Gucci continues to face weak demand. ArmellePoulou, CFO, acknowledges, while the brand's new creations are well-received, demand for some of its staple leather products, such as the Marmont and Ophidia bags continues to decline.
Despite owning other brands like Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, Kering continues to depend on Gucci, which accounted for about two-thirds of the group's profit in the first half. Notably, BottegaVeneta was the only major brand within Kering to register growth in the second quarter.
The luxury sector is experiencing a slowdown in demand for high-end bags and apparel. Even the sales of stalwart brands such as Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior, part of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE, fell short of expectations. This year, Kering's shares also declined by roughly 25 per cent. Owned by the Pinault family and led by François-Henri Pinault, the company continues to navitage a period of heightened uncertainty. Fragile consumer confidence across all regions could further impact demand for the company’s products, opines Poulou.
In H1, FY24, Kering reported a 42 per cent drop in recurring operating income to €1.58 billion ($1.7 billion), underscoring the challenges the company faces in the current market environment.
To be held from Sep 01-07, 2024, at Dubai Design District (d3), Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) SS 25 will showcase streetwear and haute couture collections by over 30 brands from countries including France, India, Indonesia, Italy, Kuwait, Lebanon, Libya, Malaysia, Palestine, Russia, the United Arab Emirates, and the United Kingdom.
Co-founded by Dubai Design District (d3), a global creative hub by Tecom Group PJSC, and the Arab Fashion Council, DFW epitomises excellence, foresight, and diversity in the fashion industry.
The first three days of DFW SS25 will highlight haute couture collections, offering high fashion and personalised shopping experiences in collaboration with distinguished retailers. The latter three days will focus on ready-to-wear collections from acclaimed designers such as Alia Bastamam, April & Alex, BenangJarum, BLSSD, DimaAyad, Lama Jouni, Mrs. Keepa, Born in Exile, Buttonscarves, Choice, Heaven Lights, Riva, Viva Vox, and Weinsanto.
These presentations are supported by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the governing body behind Paris Fashion Week. The final day will emphasise private appointments and a buyers’ market.
This year, DFW will also introduce the International Buyers Program that aims to enable global retailers to enroll in DFW’s Tier Benefits. This program expands buyers’ reach and talent discovery within Dubai’s vibrant fashion ecosystem, further establishing the city as the region’s fashion capital.
Khadija Al Bastaki, Senior Vice President, Dubai Design District (d3) – part of Tecom Group says, DFW has unveiled incredible opportunities, partnerships, and global networks to participating designers and buyers. The event aims to push the envelope further with this latest edition, which includes a new buyer’s platform, an expanded venue, more events, and an extended schedule of designers. Dubai Fashion Week will once more raise the bar for fashion excellence and cement Dubai among the global fashion capitals.
Mohammed Aqra, Chief Strategy Officer, Arab Fashion Council, adds, a key objective of the Buyers Program is to foster meaningful connections between global retailers and the innovative designers that Dubai Fashion Week showcases. The positive feedback from the global fashion industry underscores the platform’s importance in the international arena.
