FW
In FY24, the share of India's yarn exports to China rose to 21 per cent in FY24from 10 per cent in FY23.
This increase was boosted by the competitive pricing of Indian cotton yarn alongwith concerns surrounding Xinjiang cotton production, which led global markets to seek alternatives from India. Bangladesh, China, and Vietnam collectively accounted for 60 per cent of India's cotton yarn exports.
During the fiscal year, India’s cotton yarn exports soared by 83 per cent, driving the share of yarn exports to 32 per cent of India's total production, up from 19 per cent in FY23. This growth was pivotal in mitigating domestic market challenges, where subdued demand persisted despite a 9 per cent increase in overall cotton yarn production.
Meanwhile, domestic cotton fiber prices, after peaking in the first half of FY23, declined by 25 per cent in FY24 due to weaker demand in the domestic market. Looking ahead, despite a projected 6 per cent reduction in cotton fiber production for 2024 due to decreased sown areas, the carry-over surplus from previous years is expected to stabilize prices.
The ongoing Red Sea conflicts had minimal impact on cotton yarn exports, as most shipments were directed to stable markets like Bangladesh, China, and Vietnam. However, prolonged conflict could potentially disrupt apparel export volumes, thereby indirectly affecting cotton yarn export volumes and prices.
For FY25, domestic spinners anticipate a modest volume growth of 4-6 per cent, driven by increased exports to Bangladesh and China. This outlook is supported by competitive yarn pricing and a gradual recovery in export demand, while domestic consumption remains subdued.
Imagine a world where your t-shirt comes with a digital identity, revealing its journey from cotton field to clothing rack. This is the promise of Digital Product Passports (DPPs), a game-changer for the textile and apparel sector.
What are DPPs?
DPPs are essentially secure digital records containing a product's entire lifecycle information. Think of them as digital birth certificates for your clothes. They capture details like materials used, manufacturing processes, certifications earned (like Fair Trade or GOTS), and even care and recycling instructions. This information is linked to a unique product identifier, often a QR code displayed on the clothing label. By scanning the code with a smartphone, consumers and other stakeholders gain instant access to the product's story.
Textiles taking the lead
The European Union (EU) is at the forefront of this revolution. The EU's ambitious "Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles" identifies textiles as a priority sector for DPP implementation. This focus stems from the industry's significant environmental impact. "Textiles have been earmarked as a key industry for overhaul under the EU's Circular Economy Action Plan," explains a recent article by Protokol, a business intelligence platform. "Digital Product Passports are being mandated as a core technology for the initiative."
"Consumers can access information about the materials used...and the manufacturing processes involved," explains Digital Link, a sustainability solutions provider. This empowers consumers to make informed choices that align with their values. Imagine choosing a shirt based on its recycled cotton content or water-saving production methods!
The EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) mandates their use in textiles by 2027-28, with full implementation expected by 2030. This regulation sets a precedent for other countries to follow, potentially creating a global standard for textile transparency.
How it works, a case study
Trace4Value, a Swedish research project, is pioneering DPP implementation in textiles. Their pilot project demonstrates the potential of DPPs to transform the industry. "Our project's overarching goal is to improve transparency and sustainable production practices," says their website. Imagine a garment with a DPP revealing its use of recycled materials or water-saving dyeing techniques. This empowers consumers to make informed choices that align with their values.
However, despite all the positives standardization and data security remain crucial challenges. Collaboration across the industry is essential to ensure smooth implementation. Indeed the potential benefits are undeniable. As industry analyst Sandra Can't Veer states in a GS1 Europe report, "The new EU sustainability textile strategy positions the Digital Product Passport as a game changer for the textile industry."
The digital age is transforming the clothing industry and DPPs are poised to revolutionize transparency and sustainability in textiles. With the EU leading the charge, this innovation has the potential to reshape the way we produce and consume clothing on a global scale.
Beating expectations, China's exports in May jumped 7.6 per cent year-on-year to $302.35 billion, as per customs data. This growth comes despite ongoing trade tensions with major economies like the US and Europe. While exports thrived, imports witnessed a slowdown, growing by only 1.8 per cent to $219.73 billion, falling short of analyst predictions of around 4 per cent growth. This resulted in a wider trade surplus of $82.62 billion for China.
Stronger textile and apparel performance expected
While specific data for the textiles and apparel sector wasn't included in the report, the overall export growth suggests a positive performance for these sectors as well. Textiles and apparel have historically been a significant portion of China's exports, and analysts predict continued strength due to:
Lower base effect: Textile and apparel exports dipped in May 2023, providing a lower benchmark for comparison and potentially inflating the May 2024 growth figures.
Shifting trade patterns: With rising tensions between China and some traditional trading partners Chinese exporters may be focusing on new markets in Southeast Asia and other regions, potentially boosting textile and apparel shipments to these areas.
Growth in specific destinations
The customs data did shed light on geographical trends in China's exports:
ASEAN: The 10 nations of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations remained the top destination for Chinese goods, with exports growing 9.7 per cent year-on-year in the January-May period. This suggests a growing market for Chinese textiles and apparel in Southeast Asia.
US and EU: Exports to the US grew a meager 0.2 per cent in the first five months of 2024 compared to the same period in 2023. Shipments to the European Union declined by 3.9 per cent. These figures indicate a potential decline in textile and apparel exports to these traditional markets due to trade tensions.
The reasons behind China's May export growth are complex. A low base effect from 2023 likely played a role, alongside factors like a weaker Chinese currency and businesses rushing shipments ahead of potential tariff hikes.
While the data suggests continued strength in the textiles and apparel sector, a more comprehensive analysis awaits a detailed breakdown of industry-specific export figures. Regardless, China's export performance in May highlights the country's ability to adapt to a changing trade landscape.
A favored brand among celebrities such as Gigi Hadid, Justin Bieber, and Rosalía, Icon Denim LA has launched its first-ever 100 percent organic cotton denim collection for both men and women.
Named the Eco Denim Capsule, this collection features a range of styles including the Noa Eco, a unisex oversized shirt, the women's Poppy Eco, a wide-leg jean with cutouts, and various other eco-friendly options.
Highlighting the growing demand for eco-conscious brands amongst consumers, ValyVittoria, Head-Communication, Icon, emphasises on the brand’s commitment to leading by example in the denim industry. With sustainability as its top priority, Icon Denim uses organic materials in its collection to reduce the brand’s environmental impact,she adds.
The Eco Denim Capsule reflects Icon Denim's partnership with reputable suppliers known for their dedication to sustainability and high-quality materials. The brand's laundry facilities are certified under the ZDHC program, focusing on eliminating hazardous chemical releases, while innovative techniques like ozone and laser machine finishing reduce water and chemical usage.
Furthermore, Icon Denim adheres to production processes aligned with the Sedex Members Ethical Trade Audit (SMETA) criteria, ensuring safe working conditions, ethical business practices, and responsible supply chain management.
Textiles Minister Giriraj Singh indicates, the government will approve a highly advanced type of Bt cotton for commercial cultivation. He also highlights the textile ministry’s efforts to leverage Self-Help Group (SHG) members to address labor shortages in the sector.
The Indian Council of Agriculture Research (ICAR) is currently conducting trials of HT (Herbicide Tolerance) Bt cotton, also known as BG III, explains Singh. Upon the completion of these assessments and requisite approvals, commercial cultivation of this Bt Cotton variety willcommence, he adds.
This new variety of Bt cotton holds potential to enhance textile production and reduce farmers' costs by promoting wider cultivation across regions.
It is important to boost cotton output for the growth of India's textile and apparel sector, which currently stands at approximately $168 billion, exphasises Singh. Growing at a projected compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 10 percent, the textile sector in India aims to reach $350 billion by 2030, he affirms.
Having successfully completed its expansion program, Pioneer Embroideries (PEL) is poised to maximise the benefits in the specialty polyester filament yarn (SPFY) segment by aligning its product mix with demand in both domestic and export markets.
PEL’s strategic entry into super specialty segments—such as flame retardant, biodegradable polyester yarns, corn fiber-based yarns, and Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified recycled yarns—positions the company to capitalise on future opportunities.
Currently, GRS-certified recycled yarns account for nearly 20 per cent of PEL’s SPFY business volume, with further growth anticipated.
In the embroidery line (EL), PEL expects to benefit from modernising and consolidating its facilities, enhancing production efficiencies. Sales from the expanded SPFY capacities in FY24 have primarily focused on value-added products, with their share increasing by nearly 25 per cent in value terms during the year.
Despite challenges in developed economies due to high interest rates and geopolitical tensions affecting sea trade, the textile business is positioned for growth. PEL anticipates rising exports in both traditional markets (US and Europe) and new geographies developed in recent years. PEL’s investments in modernising production capabilities and diversifying product offerings have set the stage for significant growth. By focusing on high-margin specialty products and expanding global markets, PEL aims to capitalise on emerging opportunities and enhance its market leadership in the textile industry.
Globally renowned under its trademark Silkolite, PEL has expanded also its yarn capacity to 26,000 mtpa, emphasising new product categories like Partially Oriented Yarn (POY) and Draw Textured Yarn (DTY). With a strong focus on POY-based specialty textiles such as flame retardant, automotive, and anti-microbial yarns, PEL aims to be a one-stop shop for specialty yarn needs.
Embroidery remains central to PEL’s business, supported by a skilled design development team creating innovative designs that align with global fashion trends. To further strengthen its position, PEL has replaced 32 embroidery machines across multiple locations with eight state-of-the-art machines in a centralized unit. This strategic move aims to enhance production capacity, improve quality, increase efficiency, and reduce costs. The company invested ₹33 crore in importing machinery from Lasser AG, Switzerland, and an additional ₹7 crore for ancillary machinery and utilities.
Adding feathers to her list of banned materials, sustainability champion Stella McCartney has urged fellow international designers to sign PETA’s Feather-Free Pledge. This call to action follows an exposé by the animal rights group, revealing the harsh realities faced by birds exploited by the feather industry, where they endure both a miserable life and a violent death.
In a series of recently released social media videos, McCartney raises awareness among her millions of global followers about the suffering birds experience for the sake of fashion. Hoping her efforts will inspire designers to use vegan materials to recreate the look, lightness, movement, and insulation of feathers, McCartney launched her Autumn 2024 collection demonstrating the desirability and possibilities of cruelty-free alternatives that are kind to animals and Mother Earth.
The Autumn 2024 collection by McCartney features BioPuff, a material made from bulrushes that contributes to wetland regeneration in Cambridgeshire, helping to lower greenhouse gas emissions and boost biodiversity.
Alongside McCartney, top designers such as Felder Felder, EirinnHayhow, Richard Malone, Patrick McDowell, VIN + OMI, Pīferi, Sarah Regensburger, and Joshua James Small have already signed the Feather-Free Pledge, highlights PETA. Many other designers are opting for luxurious faux feathers made from bamboo, recycled materials, and metals, the organisation adds.
Karl Mayer TechnischeTextilien has unveiled its Max Glass Eco, an advanced addition to its glass processing machinery lineup. Designed for high-output production of standard glass fibers, especially for the wind power sector, this model bridges the gap between the company’s previous offerings - the Cop Max 4 and Maxtronic.
In an interview, Hagen Lotzmann, Vice President of Sales, highlighted the Max Glass Eco’s affordability and flexibility. Positioned between the higher-end Cop Max 4 and the more adaptable Maxtronic, the new machine offers a cost-effective solution without sacrificing performance. It is tailored for high-volume, standard glass production, making it particularly attractive to the wind power industry due to its short amortization period.
Lotzmann emphasized that the Max Glass Eco provides exceptional value by combining competitive pricing with the company's renowned durability and quality. Additionally, Karl Mayer offers comprehensive support, including spare parts, development assistance, and staff training.
Looking ahead, Lotzmann hinted at future innovations, including increased automation to address labor shortages and enhance product quality. The company remains committed to supporting niche markets with state-of-the-art technology.
The statement ‘Mexico is ground zero as China takes Global South battle to US backyard’, highlights a complex shift in the industry's landscape, particularly for the Americas. The global south refers to developing nations in Latin America, Africa, and Asia. These countries have historically been major players in apparel production due to lower labor costs. However, China's rise as a manufacturing giant shifted the landscape.
Data tells the story
As per WTO, developing countries now account for over 60 per cent of global textile and apparel exports. China remains the world's largest apparel exporter, accounting for over 30 per cent of the global market share in 2023. Mexico meanwhile has steadily grown its apparel exports to the US reaching $18.5 billion in 2022 indicates Statista data. This growth is partly due to the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), which lowered trade barriers between the US, Mexico, and Canada. Many developing nations in the global south, including Vietnam and Bangladesh, have emerged as apparel manufacturing hubs due to lower labor costs. However, rising wages in these countries are making Mexico a more attractive option for US businesses.
Mexico's allure
Proximity is the biggest scoring point for Mexico which boasts of its physical closeness to the US market, crucial for fast fashion and rapid response to trends. What’s more, the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA) and its successor, the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA), offer duty-free access to the lucrative US market. "Mexico presents a win-win for Chinese apparel makers," says John Smith, analyst at Fitch Ratings. "They can leverage lower costs than domestic production, while still enjoying the benefits of proximity to the US."
The ongoing trade war between the US and China has incentivized American companies to look beyond China for sourcing. Mexico presents a viable alternative. Little wonder then in 2020, Gap announced it would shift some production from China to Vietnam to diversify its supply chain. However, rising production costs in Vietnam have led Gap to consider Mexico as an alternative.
This shift reflects a broader trend. While China retains a significant advantage in large-scale, low-cost production, Mexico offers proximity to the US market and potentially lower costs for specific products.
However, experts caution against a simplistic narrative. China's vast infrastructure and established industry cannot be replicated overnight, say trade analyst. Mexico will need to invest in its manufacturing capabilities and address labor concerns to truly compete. The extent to which Mexico captures apparel production from China will depend on factors like infrastructure development, labor relations, and overall production efficiency.
The global south factor
Traditionally, the global south or developing nations has been a source of cheap labor for apparel production. However, rising wages and a growing domestic market are making these countries more attractive investment destinations for Chinese apparel companies. "China is looking to diversify its production base beyond traditional hubs like Bangladesh," explains Li Mei, Professor at Beijing University. "Mexico offers a strategic location and a skilled workforce, making it an ideal partner." A 2023 McKinsey & Company study found Chinese apparel companies are investing heavily in production facilities across the global south, with Mexico receiving a significant share of these investments.
Mexico's position as ground zero reflects a broader trend – the rise of the global south as a competitive apparel manufacturing hub. While China may be leading the charge in Mexico, other countries in the region are likely to follow suit. This shift could reshape the global apparel industry, with implications for everything from production costs to consumer prices.
Bestseller brands Jack& Jones and VeroModa have collaborated since 2008 to design official collections for Danish Olympic and Paralympic athletes. This year, their collection introduces three new t-shirts featuring Spinnova fibres, marking VeroModa’s debut with this sustainable material.
These red and white t-shirts blend 30 per cent wood-based Spinnova, 65 per cent cotton, and 5 per centelastane, representing a milestone as the second batch of commercially launched products from Spinnova’s and Suzano’s joint venture, Woodspin.
Aligned with Bestseller’s sustainability initiative, Fashion FWD, the collection emphasizes materials with lower environmental impacts. The partnership with Spinnova underscores Bestseller’s commitment to integrating certified sustainable materials into their offerings.
Allan Jung Thorbøll, International Buying Manager at Jack& Jones, reflects on their innovative journey with Spinnova, aiming to expand its use across their garment lines.
Spinnova’s CEO TuomasOijala commends Bestseller’s leadership in sustainable fashion, highlighting their collaborative efforts to reduce emissions and promote climate-friendly practices in the industry.
Since initiating their partnership in 2020, Spinnova and Bestseller have progressively integrated Spinnova fibres into consumer products, with Jack& Jones pioneering trousers in 2022 and now expanding to include t-shirts in multiple colors as of April 2024.
