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Textile millers have expressed deep concerns over the ongoing challenges facing Pakistan’s textile industry, which is underperforming in export markets by a significant $9 billion below its potential.
A high-level delegation from the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), including Kamran Arshad, Chairman; Asad Shafi, Chairman-North and Naveed Ahmed, Chairman-South recently met Ali Pervaiz Malik, Minister of State for Finance and Revenue, and senior officials from the Federal Board of Revenue to address the industry's pressing issues.
The delegation acknowledged the positive impact of Pakistan’s successful negotiations with the International Monetary Fund (IMF) for a $7 billion loan program, crucial for stabilising the country’s economy. However, while they commended the government’s efforts to reduce cross-subsidies in industrial power tariffs, they stressed that more needs to be done to make electricity prices competitive within the region.
Currently, the industrial electricity tariff in Pakistan is around 15 cents per kWh, significantly higher than the 6-9 cents per kWh in neighboring countries like India, Bangladesh, and Vietnam. The millers also raised alarm over the government’s agreement with the IMF to halt gas supply to captive power plants (CPPs) of industrial units by Dec 2024. APTMA warned, industries relying on gas-fired power are unlikely to transition to the national grid due to the high cost of electricity. If gas supplies are cut off, many industries may seek alternative energy sources or be forced to shut down operations.
Another key issue discussed was the withdrawal of the zero-rating facility, or sales tax exemption, on local supplies required for manufacturing export goods under the Export Facilitation Scheme. The removal of this exemption has caused exporters to switch from domestically produced inputs to imported raw materials, as the 18 per cent sales tax on local supplies—though refundable—takes months to process, straining liquidity and driving up production costs.
This policy change has severely impacted the spinning sector, noted APTMA. By June 2024, yarn production had dropped by 41 per cent, while cotton yarn imports increased by 435 per cent Y-o-Y in August 2024. Over 40 per cent of spinning units have been forced to close, resulting in widespread unemployment and loss of livelihoods.
The association also raised concerns over the misuse of the Export Facilitation Scheme, where yarn imported under the scheme for exportable goods is being illegally sold in the domestic market. This practice is harming the local textile industry and undermining its competitiveness.
The delegation urged the government to reconsider its policies, particularly regarding energy pricing, tax exemptions, and the misuse of import schemes, to help revive the textile sector and restore its potential in export markets.
Cinte Techtextil China 2024, held from September 19–21, marked a significant milestone for the technical textiles and nonwovens industries, showcasing how these sectors are adapting to global demand. The event hosted nearly 400 exhibitors from 13 countries, attracting close to 17,000 visits from 77 regions. The trade fair featured an extensive display of innovations and sustainable products, underscoring the pivotal role technical textiles are playing across industries like medical, automotive, construction, and industrial sectors.
Expanding opportunities in technical textiles
Demand for technical textiles and nonwovens has surged due to various factors, including population growth, industrialization, and heightened public concern for healthcare. Technical textiles used in medical treatments, protective gear, and construction materials saw increased attention at the fair. The rise of e-mobility, particularly electric vehicles, has further driven demand for automotive textiles.
Exhibitors at the event showcased cutting-edge technologies and sustainable innovations, with a strong focus on nonwovens, weaving machines, and composite lines. Among the key international players, Autefa, JH Ziegler, Lindauer Dornier, Perlon, and Reifenhauser, all represented Germany’s advancements in the field. Meanwhile, industry giants like Andritz Nonwoven, Dilo Group, and Groz-Beckert highlighted their latest innovations.
Renewed market potential in China
The return of the German Pavilion and the European Zone was a major highlight, as these exhibitors capitalized on China’s recovering domestic market. Messe Frankfurt (HK) General Manager, Wilmet Shea, emphasized how the show continues to position itself as Asia’s leading technical textiles event, drawing in international visitors and offering diverse solutions across various application areas.
Shea noted that there was strong demand in sectors such as medical, protective, automotive, industrial, and construction textiles. She added that the fringe events enhanced the fair's appeal by focusing on innovation and sustainability.
Several international exhibitors participated in Cinte Techtextil China for the first time. Notable names included AiDLab from Hong Kong, FPC Industrial from Saudi Arabia, and Nihon Glass Fiber from Japan, who expressed optimism about the fair’s role in fostering business growth.
High impact exhibitor experiences
Exhibitors praised the fair for its effectiveness in connecting them with both domestic and international buyers. Kabilen Sornum, Vice President of Marketing & E-Commerce at Groz-Beckert East Asia, highlighted the event as a key platform for accessing China's vast market, noting the strong turnout from a wide range of countries.
Chinese exhibitors also made a strong impact, with six regional pavilions, including Foshan Jiujiang and Zhejiang Tiantai, debuting at the event. Zhao Chixian, Deputy General Manager of IBENA Shanghai Technical Textile, praised the fair’s high visitor turnout, which included industry leaders and VIP buyers.
Diverse global presence and buyer engagement
The increase in visiting countries and regions by 25, compared to the previous edition, underscored the growing international interest in technical textiles. Top countries represented included Korea, Taiwan, India, and Germany. VIP buyers from 15 countries were invited, representing diverse sectors, with key delegations coming from Mexico, Australia, and India.
Visitors were impressed by the variety of products and innovations showcased at the fair. Claudia Moreno, Sourcing Manager at Group Dragon in Mexico, emphasized the event's role as a gateway to the Chinese and Asian markets and appreciated the focus on sustainable products. She mentioned making valuable contacts for potential future collaborations.
Similarly, Zhang Guoping, Production Department Head at Shikishima Industrial Fabrics, China, noted the fair’s effectiveness in connecting them with potential partners, stating they were already planning detailed post-fair discussions for future collaborations.
Spotlight on sustainability and innovation
Fringe events at Cinte Techtextil China further solidified its status as a leading platform for innovation and sustainability. Panels, guided tours, and seminars focused on how sustainability can be integrated into various sectors, from automotive to construction. A standout event was AiDLab’s presentation on automating textile inspection using AI, which garnered significant interest from attendees.
Karl Borgschulze, Managing Director of Consulting Service International, emphasized the importance of innovation as a driver for sustainability, noting that fairs like Cinte Techtextil China provide critical solutions for complex industry challenges.
Cinte Techtextil China 2024 successfully demonstrated the global demand for technical textiles and nonwovens, bridging international markets and fostering collaboration. The next edition is set for September 2025, promising even more innovations and opportunities as the industry continues to grow and adapt to new challenges.
In his inaugural address, Kamran Arshad, Chairman, All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA), reiterated the association’s commitment to revitalise the textile sector in Pakistan.
Arshad recently assumed office for a two-year term (2024-26) alongside Muhammad Jameel Qasim, Senior Vice Chairman and Siddique Javed Bhatti, Vice Chairman. On the other hand, Shahzad Ahmed Sheikh was appointed as the Vice Chairman of the value-added sector.
Additionally, Fawad Anwar of Al-Karam Textile Mills has been appointed Chairman of the Pakistan Textile Council (PTC) while Musadaq Zulqarnain has been elected as the Vice-Chairman.
At a session organised by the All India Professional’s Congress, P Chidambaram, Former Union Minister emphasised on the need to reducing import duties in the apparel sector to ensure a more sustainable growth.
Chidambaram pointed out, when the BJP government took power in 2014, the average customs tariff was only 8 per cent, but it has now risen to 13 per cent. He argued that an economy heavily controlled by the government cannot compete effectively in the global market.
During the seven years of Prime Minister Modi’s administration since 2016, India’s apparel exports dropped by 15 per cent, Chidambaram revealed. On the other hand, exports from Bangladesh increased by 65 per cent during the same period. Data from the Apparel Export Promotion Council shows, India’s apparel exports declined from $16.2 billion in 2022–23 to $14.5 billion the following year. Although some improvement is anticipated in 2024–25, exports continue to remain below the previous year’s levels.
He criticised the imposition of government control in the industry through regulations like the Company’s Act, Income Tax Act, and the rules set by the Director General of Foreign Trade (DGFT).
Chidambaram also criticised the government for neglecting labor-intensive sectors like apparel manufacturing. He pointed out, while China's decline has benefitted Bangladesh and Vietnam’s garment sectors, India has not experienced similar advantages. He reiterated that tariffs on apparel have escalated.
Leading importer and distributor of knitting machines, Goldstone International showcased its latest technological innovations at the recent Garment Technology Expo (GTE) 2024 in Bengaluru.
A specialist in flatbed computerised knitting machines, Goldstone has been a supplier of state-of-the-art machinery to both garment and footwear manufacturers across India for over a decade. The company is known for its high-quality products, prompt deliveries, competitive pricing, and exceptional after-sales support.
The company’s key exhibit at GTE 2024 was the whole garment machine. According to Bhupesh Jain, Director, this advanced machine enables the company to create fully knitted garments with minimal human intervention. It eliminates the need for stitching, significantly reducing both labor costs and production time, making it an appealing option for manufacturers looking to boost efficiency, he adds.
Highlighting the cost-benefits of the new machine, Jain cites yarn wastage and overall time savings in production process as primary advantages. Automation also ensures greater consistency, reducing the need for manual oversight and intervention, he adds.
The response to the machine at GTE 2024 from visitors and potential buyers has been overwhelmingly positive, says Jain. Goldstone International continues to lead the market as the largest importer of footwear knitting machines in India since 2017, he adds.
Emphasising the importance of automation in garment manufacturing, Jain notes, it guarantees consistent output. With standardised processes being crucial, automation is the way forward, he explains. To support the adoption of these new technologies, Goldstone International offers training programs in collaboration with educational institutions, helping students learn how to operate the advanced knitting machines.
Goldstone International also provides subsidised machines to educational institutes to address the shortage of skilled workers capable of operating sophisticated machinery. The company ensues the next generation is equipped with the skills needed to work with modern knitting technology, Jain points out. It remains committed to empowering future operators to understand and utilise automated knitting systems, he concludes.
Busana Apparel Group, established in 1975, is a global leader in the fashion industry, offering a diverse product line that includes woven dress shirts, women’s tops, bottoms, denim, outerwear, and knits. The company operates 24 manufacturing facilities across Indonesia and Ethiopia, employing over 33,500 workers and producing 70 million units annually. Busana’s production capacity and innovation make it a key player in global fashion.
In a recent development, Busana Apparel joined the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) as a corporate member. Christian Schindler, Director General of ITMF, welcomed Busana, highlighting the mutual benefits of this collaboration. ITMF connects producers of fibers, yarns, fabrics, and machinery, fostering an exchange of expertise across the entire textile value chain.
Chairman Maniwanen Marimoetoe of Busana Apparel expressed that membership in ITMF grants access to valuable industry reports, statistics, and surveys. Additionally, it enhances connections with key companies worldwide, supporting Busana's goal of staying competitive and informed in the global market.
By joining ITMF, Busana Apparel is set to strengthen its global presence and enhance its position within the textile industry.
Monforts marked its 140th anniversary with a special celebration at its Monchengladbach, Germany, headquarters, honoring employees and their families. Since its founding in 1884 by August Monforts, the company has been dedicated to advancing textile machinery technology.
Under the theme ‘140 Years of Performance, Innovation, and Partners,’ Monforts plans further celebrations during ITMA Asia + CITME in Shanghai, showcasing its continued leadership in the textile industry.
Over the years, Monforts has transitioned from mechanical and steam-powered machinery to advanced digital solutions. Managing Director Gunnar Meyer emphasized the company’s commitment to digitalization, quality control, and energy efficiency.
Monforts early machines, including cotton fabric nappers, gained international attention at the 1893 Chicago World Fair. By 1897, the company employed 1,200 workers and pioneered semi-automatic tools. Today, it stands as a key player in fabric finishing technology, particularly through its Montex stenters, which are industry standards for processes like heat-setting and coating.
The company’s Advanced Technology Centre, opened in 2013, allows customers to test new textile finishes. Monforts’ production site in Austria, Montex Maschinenfabrik, has been a cornerstone of precision manufacturing for over 40 years, collaborating closely with Monforts’ R&D team.
With a global presence and an estimated 2,000 machines in operation, Monforts continues to innovate and provide durable, high-performance machinery for the textile sector.
In celebration of the 75th anniversary of the People's Republic of China, Hong Kong Polytechnic University (PolyU) and the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (HKSAR) Government collaborated to showcase modern Chinese fashion. PolyU’s School of Fashion and Textiles (SFT) was invited to design outfits for key female government figures, including the Chief Executive’s wife, five bureau secretaries, and the director of the Chief Executive’s Office. These outfits were worn at the National Day flag-raising ceremony and other celebratory events.
Led by Jin Lam Chi-hin, Associate Professor at SFT, the design team created seven bespoke ‘China-chic’ outfits over a period of three months. The designs reflected the personal styles and professional roles of the officials, incorporating traditional Chinese elements such as knot buttons, Mandarin collars, and jacquard fabrics. The collection merges traditional Chinese culture with modern aesthetics, using innovative tailoring to highlight the elegance of contemporary women.
Jin Lam, a PolyU graduate, has gained recognition for her work, including a commendation from the Times Higher Education Awards Asia 2024. PolyU’s Council Chairman, Lam Tai-fai, emphasized that the project demonstrates the university's leadership in combining Chinese heritage with modern design. He added that PolyU is committed to nurturing fashion talents to reinforce Hong Kong’s position as Asia’s leading fashion hub.
This project aims to inspire young designers to embrace Chinese cultural elements in their work, fostering national pride and advancing oriental aesthetics globally. PolyU’s SFT, with 67 years of history, continues to evolve its curriculum to include modern subjects like AI and sustainability to stay at the forefront of the fashion industry.
Sanjay Garg, President of NITMA, expressed his gratitude to Textile Minister Giri Raj Singh and Commerce Minister Piyush Goyal for extending the Minimum Import Price (MIP) on 13 synthetic knitted fabric HSN codes. The extension includes 8 new HSN codes—60019200, 60041000, 60049000, 60053600, 60053790, 60053900, 60062200, and 60064200—while 5 codes, previously under MIP, continue to be covered. The Directorate General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) has set a minimum import price of $3.50 per kg on these fabrics, effective from September 15 to December 31, 2024.
Earlier this month, a delegation led by Garg met with Textile Minister Singh and senior officials to advocate for MIP on underpriced knitted fabric imports. Garg emphasized the critical role NITMA and other trade bodies, including the All India Knitter Association, Punjab Dyer’s Association, and stakeholders from Surat, played in highlighting the negative impact of cheap imports.
While praising the government’s decision, Garg warned the domestic industry that the fight against underpriced fabric imports is not over, as some entities may shift imports to other HS codes within chapter 60. He urged the industry to remain vigilant, closely monitoring imports beyond chapter 60 as well.
Garg concluded by stating that this MIP measure will significantly curb the import of undervalued synthetic knitted fabrics under the specified HS codes, offering vital relief to the struggling domestic industry.
A survey by Textiles Intelligence highlights optimism amid global challenges in textile industry. The positive buzz has been generated by the release of the ‘Survey of the European Fabric Fairs for Spring/Summer 2025’. The comprehensive survey paints a picture of a dynamic and evolving industry, filled with optimism despite ongoing global challenges. It reveals fabric fairs across Europe, including Munich Fabric Start, Milano Unica, Première Vision Paris, and Texworld Paris, showcased a vibrant and innovative collection of fabrics that highlight sustainability, comfort, and aesthetic appeal.
Optimism and positivity the buzzword
The survey conducted across various fairs reflects a sense of optimism and positivity among exhibitors and visitors.
• Strong attendance and exhibitor participation: The survey revealed robust attendance and exhibitor participation at major European fabric fairs, including Munich Fabric Start, Milano Unica, Première Vision Paris, and Texworld Paris. This strong turnout is a testament to the industry's resilience and its eagerness to connect and collaborate.
• Sustainability takes center stage: A clear trend emerged across all fairs and that is sustainability is no longer just a buzzword; it's a core business principle. A significant emphasis on sustainable materials and manufacturing processes was evident throughout the fairs. Exhibitors showcased an array of eco-friendly fabrics, from recycled materials to organic fibers, demonstrating the industry's commitment to a greener future. This reflects the growing demand for environmentally responsible fashion choices from both consumers and industry professionals.
• Digital innovation drives efficiency: The survey also highlighted the increasing importance of digital technologies in the textile industry. From virtual showrooms to online ordering platforms, digital tools are streamlining processes and enhancing efficiency.
• Cautious optimism prevails: Despite the positive trends, the report also noted a degree of cautious optimism among industry players. Concerns persist about rising costs, supply chain disruptions, and the lingering impact of the COVID-19 pandemic.
• Vibrant color palettes and bold prints: On a lighter note, the survey revealed a vibrant array of color palettes and bold prints for the Spring/Summer 2025 season. Designers are embracing playful and energetic styles, reflecting a desire for optimism and joy in the face of adversity.
• Comfort and functionality: The focus on comfortable and functional fabrics continues to be a strong trend. Fabrics with natural fibers, such as cotton, linen, and wool, alongside innovative blends that offer stretch and moisture-wicking properties, were prominently featured. This trend aligns with the consumer preference for versatile clothing that seamlessly transitions from work to leisure.
Textiles Intelligence analysts noted the European fabric fairs are indicative of a positive trajectory for the Spring/Summer 2025 season. The emphasis on sustainability, comfort, and aesthetics suggests a growing consumer demand for responsible and versatile fashion that empowers personal expression. The integration of technology further strengthens the industry's ability to connect with global audiences and showcase innovations effectively. The report offers a comprehensive overview of the latest fabric trends and insights into the evolving fashion landscape. The focus on sustainability, comfort, and aesthetics aligns with the growing consumer demand for responsible and versatile fashion. With the integration of technology, the industry is poised for further growth and innovation in the coming seasons.
