FW
Denim Première Vision, which ended on May 24, demonstrated varied fashion applications of denim and the savoir-faire of the show’s exhibitors. An impressive installation welcomed visitors with meters of blue material unfurled and suspended as though in a factory. However, these fabrics were not mass runs, but special samples representing the latest denim trends for autumn/winter 2019-2020.
Visitors had the opportunity to discover a more fashion focused fair in this edition. For starters, this year, for the first time, the trade show’s five chosen themes were also interpreted by a renowned designer. Lutz Huelle had come up with a handful of silhouettes for each theme, using the products and innovations proposed by the various weavers, finishers and tailors at work in the world of denim.
This season's selection presented some interesting discoveries. In sportswear category, dubbed Active Denim, the concepts of elasticity and comfort are evidently still a priority. For example, through the application of a special technique, a fleece effect can now be achieved on the inside of denim products. But the sector is also exploring denim’s potential to capture market share from the ever present padded jacket, experimenting with elegant and intelligent padding techniques which could lead to some interesting developments in the future.
Russia’s Minister of Trade and Industry Denis Manturov and his Egyptian counterpart Tarek Kabil signed an agreement to establish a Russian industrial zone in Egypt. The zone will boost cooperation between the two countries, especially in the industrial, agricultural and customs fields. It will also promote Russian high-tech products in the huge new markets in the Middle East, Africa, Europe and Latin America.
The Russian industrial zone, located within the economic zone of the Suez Canal, will cover 5.25 square kilometers with an investment of $6.9 billion, enough to provide an estimated 35,000 jobs. The zone project will cover several industrial fields, including construction equipment, glass and ceramics, wood and paper, autos and medicine.
KARL MAYER has introduced the HKS 3-M model having a width of 280 inches. Like all HKS three-bar machines, the new machine offers multiple features. The high-speed tricot machine operates with a 3 x 32" beam mounting arrangement as standard. It is available with a mounting configuration with a diameter of 40" for beam position GB 1, and 32" each for beam positions GB 2 and GB 3. Just like the machines having a smaller working width, the HKS 3-M, 280", is available in the gauges of E 28 and E 32.
The machine can be equipped with the new KAMCOS® 2 efficient computer platform, the LEO® Low Energy Option for energy-efficient running, and a camera monitoring system above or below the web. A face plate under the textile web for monitoring transparent fabrics is also available as an option. The knitting motions and elements are the same as on the existing machines. This machine delivers the dependable quality typical of all KARL MAYER’s machines. It can be supervised easily and operates steadily and reliably with low maintenance requirements. It is also extremely efficient. The HKS 3-M, 280", operates at a maximum speed of 2,200 min-1.
Garment workers in Karnataka have sought revision of minimum wages, withdrawn by the earlier government in March 2018. As per the draft notification, the minimum wage was to be revised to Rs 445 per day for an unskilled worker from Rs 220 a day. For a semi-skilled worker in Bengaluru, the wage was proposed to be revised from Rs 229 to Rs 490. For skilled and highly-skilled workers, the wages were proposed to be revised upwards from Rs 232 and Rs 240 to Rs 539 and Rs 593, respectively.
Implementation of this notification would have benefitted around 4.5 lakh people, mostly women, employed in the state’s garment industry. Bengaluru alone employs nearly 3.5 lakh people. The notification was withdrawn by the labour department stating that the industry management objected to the revision as minimum wages in the state were already higher compared to other states, and increasing the wages would have an adverse impact on the industry.
ITAMMA has won the 4th Award for Responsible Indian BMOs under the category ‘Environment Responsibility’ at National level. 145 BMOs (also known as Industry Associations) at National, State, District and State levels, from 19 States competed for an all India Award for ‘Responsible Indian BMO’ held on 8th February, 2018 in New Delhi by the Foundation for MSME Clusters (FMC).
ITAMMA had applied for this Award under the category “Environment Responsibility” at National level , where main thrust was on Lean Manufacturing Competitiveness Scheme programme organised at Gujarat and Panipat; Occupational Health and Safety, First Aid and Safety Training camps organised at Navi Mumbai and Cost effective schemes organised during International and National Events .
The 87th annual Congress of the IWTO took place in Hong Kong, with more than 250 wool textile industry professionals from around the world in attendance. Communicating wool's sustainability emerged as one of the key themes of the event. In his closing, IWTO President Peter Ackroyd advised attendees to serve as ambassadors for wool's environmental credentials, taking the message across the board from consumers through to textile buyers.
Stephen Wiedemann, Principal Scientist at Integrity Ag Services and Chair of the IWTO Wool Life Cycle Assessment Working Group, presented the work being done by the industry to improve the way wool is rated by environmental agencies. Members Madam Peng Yanli, President, China Wool Textile Association, and Joachim Schulz, CEO, Vlnap Wagenfelder Spinning Group spoke on wool in the automotive industry, opportunities and drawbacks.
Michael Jackson, Managing Director, AWTA chaired the forum on contracts and specifications. The contracts and specifications committee reviews proposed changes to IWTO test methods for the measurement of wool fibre, yarn and fabric properties, IWTO regulations concerning sampling and certification procedures, and the IWTO arbitration agreement.
Some other interesting presentations were by Cathrine Stange, CEO, Devold, Norway who spoke about a holistic approach to quality and Joseph Chang, Senior Sales Director, Nameson Group Retail who spoke on fashion trends.
The Indonesian industry has proposed textile-specific clusters to improve competitiveness of domestic products. The domestic textile industry is also constrained by logistics problems because the upstream and downstream industries are located in dispersed areas. Fiber and yarn producers are in one area, clothing manufacturers are elsewhere.
Industry players want the upstream and downstream industries integrated in one region. In terms of production, from January-March 2018, the textile industry increased eight per cent on an annual basis. The growth is driven by domestic demand as there is still a tightening factor in wholesale imports and other imports, so domestic consumers are still looking for local products.
Indonesia hopes to triple textile and textile product exports in the next five years. If this happens, this sector will be Indonesia’s largest non-oil export contributor and create jobs for six million people. Indonesia is one of the world’s largest textile manufacturers and exporters (although trailing far behind China).
At present, the US is the largest clothing importer from Indonesia. If the country were to lobby with the US to expand its Generalised System of Preferences to include more Indonesian apparel and accessories, this would facilitate the entry of more Indonesian products into the US at lower tariffs.
Aditya Birla Group company Grasim is expanding its textile and chemical business, which saw robust growth in the fourth quarter of the year. The investment will help Grasim maintain its leadership position in both segments, and also keep a tab on the rising competition from China, especially in the case of viscose staple fiber (VSF).
For Grasim 75 per cent of sales comes from India, up from 69 per cent the last year. Liva has helped better the company’s offering. In three years, Liva-tagged garments have seen a tenfold increase. In the last financial year, India had 30 million Liva tagged garments.
To increase awareness among brands on the use of viscose staple fiber, Grasim has two studios in Delhi and New York. In the value chain, the company is far from a designer, and that’s why through the studios it wants to showcase to the designer that if you use viscose this is the garment that you get.
In the last two years in India, the company’s growth is around 22 per cent. At a global level VFS is growing at four to five per cent and in India the industry average is eight per cent to nine per cent.
Myanmar, in the last five years, has built around 250 garment and footwear factories. The country’s, export earnings from the CMP garment sector in 2017 reached nearly US$ 2.7 million. Its exports from the industries have increased around three times during five years. The garment sector sees an inflow of foreign investments. In 2017, the EU overtook Japan which is also placing more garment order. Currently, the EU has topped the list of garment orders placed.”
Myanmar earns an average of 10 per cent income for sewing. Some garment industries earn eight per cent and 12 per cent incomes respectively based on products.
Gap’s first quarter profit has fallen below expectations. The quarter presented challenges like operating issues and the unseasonably cold and snowy weather. The brand has struggled to keep pace with fast-fashion rivals such as H&M and Forever 21 and tackle the dominance of Amazon.
Though the company has pushed hard to bring styles to stores faster like fast fashion chains, the company has failed to capture the imagination of shoppers like it had done a decade ago. Besides Gap, the company also owns Old Navy and Banana Republic. Sales at Gap branded stores open for at least a year sank four per cent.
Even its strong performing Old Navy business posted a lower-than-expected three per cent rise in same-store sales, missing estimates for the first time in four quarters. Inventories in the quarter rose 3.7 per cent from a year earlier, mainly due to Gap merchandise stuck on shelves and in warehouses.
Gross margins dropped 120 basis points, excluding new accounting rules, in the quarter. The company, however, expects pressure on margins to ease in the current quarter. Overall same-store sales rose one per cent in the three months ended May 5, while analysts were expecting a 1.67 per cent increase.
