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The global apparel sector still has a long road ahead until it can claim it is environmentally and socially sustainable. Cotton production worldwide consumes six per cent of all pesticides and 14 per cent of insecticides sold. Millions of farmers, the vast majority of which are smallholders, are dependent on raising cotton as their sole source of income – exposing them to climate change risks and human rights violations. These are the results of a survey by the NGO Solidaridad.
The good news is that the total amount of sustainable cotton sourced by brands and retailers increased from 17 per cent in 2015 to 21 per cent in 2016, indicating that the entire industry at large is slowly changing its ways. But certification and traceability still impose huge challenges, meaning many farmers could be losing out on revenues that could make a difference in their lives. Up to 80 per cent of more sustainably produced cotton was sold as conventional, without any recognition.
There is a need to increase the amount of sustainable cotton in the industry’s global supply chain. Cotton sourcing policies need far more rigor. Companies have to communicate to stakeholders their approach to problems such as water consumption, biodiversity, human rights and recycling. Transparency is key. Companies should report annually on their policies, sourcing strategies and progress as they shift to recycled, organic or more responsibly-grown cotton.
Woolmark has unveiled an unique two-sided fabric Neulana Double. Neulana Double is a 100 per cent wool fabric with two very different surfaces, with one face smooth like a traditional outer shell, with the other side being soft, bulky and brushed.
The innovative double weave fabric provides maximum insulation, while minimising fabric weight and retaining all merino wool’s natural properties such as breathability and moisture management. The outer face of Neulana Double is constructed at high levels of thread density in warp and weft using fine merino wool yarns that have been stretched, but not set, during processing. It is only when the fabric is wet-finished that the stretch is released causing the yarns to contract, thus leading to an extreme tightening of the fabric structure and the creation of the immensely dense fabric.
The inner side of Neulana Double is soft to touch and is suitable next to skin. By using special treatment technology, a loose-yet-full structure is formed inside the yarn, raising the ratio of fabric volume to weight. The end result is an air-like, soft fabric with voluminous characteristics and an exquisitely soft handle. The fabric appears to be bonded, but is actually woven, eliminating the need for any synthetics, glue, membrane or lining, and is suitable for high-end casual jackets.
Thailand hosted an IndustriALL’s Asia-Pacific regional meeting for the textile, garment, leather and shoe sectors, September 29 to 30. Participants discussed the sector’s policies and priorities, common goals and strengthening unions through unity. IndustriALL’s global brand strategy has resulted in agreements between global labor and brands such as H&M, Inditex and Tchibo. Bangladesh’s Accord and the Act initiative illustrate the promises of collective actions to leverage change.
The fashion industry has changed rapidly; strategies of the past are no longer relevant today. IndustriALL regularly joins forces with relevant actors fighting for a sustainable garment industry. Sarah Ditty from Fashion Revolution spoke about their communication strategies and how teaming up with IndustriALL helps to amplify and share union struggles in the sector by sharing their message to their large audience of consumers.
A case study on the H&M global framework agreement was presented and brought together National Monitoring Committee (NMC) representatives from Cambodia, Myanmar, Bangladesh and Indonesia. They reported on the process of creating well functioning industrial relations through the NMC mechanism.
In a growing industry with complex supply chains, transparency is vital. Human Rights Watch wants factories to publish information on their supply chains and presented its Transparency Pledge Campaign. The pledge was fully supported by participants as increased transparency means that violations of labor rights can be identified.
A clearer picture has emerged of the textile culture in Italy and Greece during the first half of the first millennium BC. There is overwhelming evidence of frequent contact between Italy and Greece during the first half of the first millennium BC, but this evidence shows their textile traditions were technically, aesthetically and conceptually different.
Textiles are relatively rare finds, especially in Mediterranean Europe, due to conditions which are unfavorable for organic material preservation. Many archaeological textile fragments do, however, survive in mineralised form. During the Iron Age people were buried with a lot of metal goods such as personal ornaments, weapons and vessels. These metals are conducive to the preservation of textiles as the metal effectively kills off the micro-organisms which would otherwise consume the organic materials, while at the same time metal salts create casts of textile fibers, thereby preserving the textile microstructure.
This is how a large number of textiles are found, even though they only exist in tiny fragments. Through meticulous analysis using digital and scanning electron microscopy, high performance liquid chromatography and other advanced methods it is possible to determine a lot of information including the nature of the raw materials and structural features such as thread diameter, twist direction, type of weaving or binding, and thread count.
Switzerland’s textile machinery manufacturers exhibited in their own pavilion at Irantex, September 4 to 7. A total of 13 Swiss companies took part. Among them were Jakob Müller, Benninger, Luwa, Saurer, and Drop Chemicals. The exhibition attracted wide international participation and Switzerland’s special pavilion – its first after a decade – helped its companies make a strong impression on trade visitors. Business contacts were enhanced and some notable project negotiations were finalized.
SERV, the Swiss Export Credit Insurance organisation, secures exports of Swiss companies against political and transfer risks, as well as payment losses, and provides additional liquidity for specific export deals.
SERV has many years of very positive experience with Iranian buyers. At Irantex it was able to present the available services for transactions between Swiss and Iranian companies and facilitate talks about the markets, politics and customs of Iran.
Following the ending of international sanctions on Iran at the start of 2016, there has been a move toward reintroducing and expanding financial and trade frameworks to allow the Iranian textile sector to upgrade its technology levels. Customer interest in high-quality and technology-driven machinery is strong. There is even a strong desire to overcome the financial complexities to enable the Iranian industry to take advantage of imported products.
Fashion brand Stella McCartney has worked with Italian worsted spinner Zegna Baruffa to develop a Cradle to Cradle certified gold level product. This is a wool yarn and it will feature in Stella McCartney’s ready-to-wear collections and accessories. It has been produced without the use of pesticides, by optimisation of textile dye chemistry and so improving the health, safety and environmental profile of the wool fiber.
The certification marks the fashion industry’s first gold level Cradle to Cradle certification for a wool yarn. The initiative’s aim is to accelerate the fashion industry’s trajectory towards circular design through the collaborative development of circular building block materials.
Stella McCartney selected wool yarn as its first certified gold product because of the continuity of this raw material used in products from year-to-year, across categories and collections, including men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and accessories.
Every step of wool production was scrutinised, beginning with the strict selection of farmers and the avoidance of toxic pesticides, and the careful monitoring of the use of detergents, leveling agents, biocides and processing chemicals. As a result, more than 70 per cent of the yarn’s chemistry was optimized.
Stella McCartney is among an influential group of brands working together to lead the industry towards more responsible, sustainable and circular practices.
Anta became the official partner of sports apparel for the organising committee for the 2022 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games ("Beijing 2022").
Chen Jining, Acting Mayor of Beijing and Executive President of Beijing 2022, Yang Shu'an, Vice Minister of the General Administration of Sport and Vice President of Beijing 2022; Lu Yong, Board Chairman of the China Disabled Persons' Federation and Vice President of Beijing 2022 attended the signing ceremony in the Capital Gymnasium.
Anta already has a deal to supply the Chinese Olympic team, who have sported the brand’s apparel for the past two Olympic cycles, and also has ties with several Chinese national winter sports organisations.
Beijing 2022 will mark the first time that the Winter Olympic and Paralympic Games have been staged in China, and is scheduled to take place between 4th and 20th February 2022.
Gap Inc., is the newest member of the Cotton LEADS and extends its commitment to sustainable raw material sourcing. The leading global retailer joins more than 470 program partners that acknowledge the ongoing sustainable gains by United States and Australian cotton growers. Gap Inc., which includes Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy and Athleta brands, had previously announced a range of sustainability goals, including a 50% reduction of greenhouse gas emissions (GHG) from their global operations by the end of 2020. In April, Gap brand committed to sourcing 100% of its cotton from more sustainable sources by 2021, and Athleta aims to use 80% sustainable fibers in Athleta apparel by 2020.
“Reducing the climate and water impacts of our product assortment and our global supply chain remain a key focus for us,” says Melissa Fifield, Senior Director of Sustainable Innovation at Gap Inc. “The GHG reductions already achieved by cotton growers from Australia and the United States give us confidence that by partnering with the Cotton LEADS program we can encourage and support measurable, real reductions to help meet our sustainability goals.”
Mark Messura, senior vice president Global Supply Chain Marketing at Cotton Incorporated, a founding member organization of the Cotton LEADS program, highlights other benefits. “Retail, brand and manufacturing partners with program recognize the investments in responsible production that Australian and U.S. growers are making, along with their commitment to supporting improvements in cotton globally. These efforts in continual improvement come from the cotton producers themselves and impose no downstream costs on the supply chain.”
Cotton LEADS is a partnership between the entire U.S. and Australian cotton industries to promote responsible cotton production practices. One unique program aspect is that the growers invest in their research and development and share best practices for the industry. The program aims to influence cotton supply chain strategies by raising awareness of characteristics common to U.S. and Australian cotton industries.
Three months after GST was implemented, exporters in Gujarat are facing working capital issues due to delayed refunds of integrated GST (IGST). Under GST, exporters must pay IGST and claim refunds for tax paid on exported goods and services; or they can export goods and services by furnishing a detailed bond or letter of undertaking before each export, without paying IGST and then claim refund of input tax credit.
With no GST refunds for two months, merchant exporters are facing a major working capital crunch. Due to this exports are likely to be down by five or ten per cent in the immediate future. If refund inflows are not available, there may be losses. Order books - especially of merchant exporters- have taken a hit.
Liability on processing refunds for industries across the country is Rs 65,000 crores. Small exporters are facing cash flow issues and in the long run, it will reduce competitiveness. Major exports from Gujarat are: textiles, chemicals, pharmaceuticals, ceramics and gems and jewelry. Merchant exporters in the pharma industry are facing an estimated 50 to 60 per cent working capital crunch. The ceramics industry business has declined significantly. Business is down by more than 50 per cent. As most merchant exporters operate on margins of around 10 to 12 per cent, it becomes difficult to fulfil orders.
Neiman Marcus is looking at replacing its current CEO Karen Katz. Katz will abdicate her role as CEO at the retailer but will retain her seat on the board. She has worked at Neiman Marcus' since 2010.
This US luxury department store is now looking outside the company for her successor, but no timeframe has been mentioned for her replacement.The Dallas-based group, which owns MyTheresa.com and Bergdorf Goodman, has been struggling since 2013, post Ares and Canadian public pension fund CPPIB acquired it from other private equity firms and exited with approximately $5 billion in debt.
In March last year, the troubled Neiman Marcus entered into discussions with Hudson's Bay Co. for a potential buyout, but the Canadian retailer backed out from any deal following Neiman's high debt.
Neiman was also looking at other options to change its capital structure, but backed out of a restructure plan as its heavy debt made any acquisition hard to structure. The firm's most recently financial quarterly result saw losses extend to $26.2 million when compared to $23.5 million over the same period last year, as debt and previously accrued losses continued to drag the business down.
Despite this Neiman Marcus showed a 4.2 per cent rise in comparable revenue in the Q1 of 2018, which it attributed to its ‘digital first' strategy and investments in new technology. Quarterly revenue rose to $1.12 billion, up 3.8 per cent from $1.08 billion a year ago, the company announced.
