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India's cotton textile exports have fallen 10 per cent over the last three fiscals. Shipments of cotton textiles from India stood at Rs 70,936 crores during 2016-17 as against Rs 72,994 crores in the previous financial year and Rs 71,913 crores in 2014-15. Cotton textiles comprise cotton yarn, other textile yarn, fabrics, made-up articles, cotton raw waste and cotton fabrics and made-ups, which include products like bed sheets, blankets and curtains.
Export of cotton at present is under the open general license. India is among the largest producers and exporters of cotton textile products. India exports cotton textiles to Russia, UK, Australia, Sri Lanka, Iran, Germany, Belgium, Italy etc. The cotton textile industry requires raw cotton as the principal raw material and chemicals like caustic soda, dyes, arrowroot or starch etc. Cotton growing regions are Maharashtra, Gujarat, Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, etc.
However, cotton textile industry in India faces some problems. Long staple cotton is not well grown in many parts of India. Many of the factories are old and, as such, productivity has been lowered. Plants and machinery employed in many textile mills are out of date. There is competition from synthetic fibers like polyester etc. The high cost of production is retarding the growth of the industry.
"The concept of ‘fast fashion’ has ignited a media frenzy and intense backlash for the wide scale ramifications it has through its supply chain. This phenomenon has occurred over several decades, with the onset and expansion of globalisation. As trade barriers began to soften, major brands had the freedom to jump from one country to the next in pursuit of cheaper labor and materials."
The concept of ‘fast fashion’ has ignited a media frenzy and intense backlash for the wide scale ramifications it has through its supply chain. This phenomenon has occurred over several decades, with the onset and expansion of globalisation. As trade barriers began to soften, major brands had the freedom to jump from one country to the next in pursuit of cheaper labor and materials.
The International Labour Organisation (ILO) estimates there are around 170 million children engaged in child labour worldwide. This is a particular issue in the fashion industry as the majority of the supply chain requires low-skilled labour, with some tasks even considered better suited to children than adults. In cotton picking, for example, employers prefer to hire children for their small fingers, which do not damage the crop.
The fashion industry supply chain is intricately complex and spread vastly across many countries, making it
difficult for retailers to control every stage of production. Sadly, this makes it possible for manufacturers to employ children and labourers in immoral conditions without brands and consumers ever finding out or facing adequate consequences.
Negative impact of fast fashion on the environment
Water pollution, the use of toxic chemicals and increasing textile waste are some of other negative impacts that fast fashion has on the planet. The pressure to produce rising volumes of garments at a reduced cost within tight timeframes leads to manufacturers cutting corners in environmental parameters.
A man-made, energy-intensive synthetic fibre commonly used in fashion, Polyester has sparked major controversy for its artificial makeup of micro-plastics, which easily pass through waterways and end up in our oceans. Since these micro-fibres do not disintegrate, every piece of polyester that has ever been made is still in existence today, contributing to large mountains of textile waste dumped in landfills across the globe. In addition, the dyes and toxic chemical components of other low quality textiles such as nylon and acrylic, as well as genetically-modified cotton, release methane, a harmful greenhouse gas and significant contributor to global warming, into the atmosphere when decomposing.
Brands adopt green initiatives
Many companies are introducing sustainable, ethical and ‘green’ initiatives into their overall retail strategy. Swedish brand H&M is publishing the names and addresses of all its factories in each country on the website. The company has outlined a number of sustainability targets in its annual Sustainability Report.
The brand’s Conscious Exclusive Collection – a range that champions 100 per cent recycled and raw materials – has grown from strength to strength. Its in-store Garment Collecting initiative also encourages customers to hand in unwanted clothing, from any brand and in any condition, all-year round.
Another brand, G-Star RAW, alongwith H&M has signed a Transparency Pledge. The pledge was drawn up by coalition of global unions and labour rights groups advocating for companies in the fashion industry to make information about their manufacturing supply chain accessible to the public. The brand has also incorporated a Fair Wage Project into their supply chain, which continually seeks to ensure workers are paid a living wage.
While cannot change people’s capitalistic conditioning, we can look at sustainability as a catalyst for innovations. Retailers can embrace responsible and ethical sourcing initiatives by utilising technology for their production processes.
Indian Textile Accessories and Machinery Manufacturers Association (ITAMMA) plans to set up a textile and garment technology centre in Vietnam to introduce machines, equipment and provide after-sale services to Vietnamese customers. It will also serve as a venue for the two countries’ businesses to exchange and update on the latest technologies.
Vietnam is a potential market where Indian businesses are seeking opportunities to boost export of textile machines and equipment. As one of the world’s leading textile and garment exporters, Vietnam has a growing demand for machinery and equipment, thereby creating big opportunities for Indian firms.
Indian businesses have opportunities to supply machines and equipment at affordable prices to the Vietnamese market as machines imported from Europe have high prices. India’s export turnover of textile and garment machinery and equipment surpassed $400 million in 2016 and its earnings from Vietnam was much less. Therefore, Indian enterprises want to boost trade and business networking in Vietnam’s garment and textile sector. Indian firms can work with Vietnamese fabric and textile factories to create material supply chains, bringing long-term benefits to both sides. India is an important trade partner for Vietnam in the field of garment and textiles and machinery and Vietnam is a potential market for Indian businesses.
A report released by the National Bank of Cambodia, Cambodia’s shows garment exports grew slower than expected by about 4 per cent in the first half of the year compared with 9 per cent in the same period last year while foreign investment in the sector fell by 30 per cent.
The US and the EU are the top two destinations for Cambodia’s garments and the NBC report pointed out that in the first half of the year total US-EU garment exports was 67 per cent of the kingdom’s total exports, down from 75 per cent in the same period last year. The report also stated investment in the garment sector fell due to investors realising Cambodia, in the next three years, would no longer enjoy preferential tax treatment from the EU as it moves up the ranks from a lower income country to a lower middle income nation.
Cambodia will face tough competition in the global market in the short, medium and long term due to Vietnam, Cambodia’s main competitor in garment sector, getting preferential tax treatment in 2018 on its exports to the EU under the Free Trade Agreement, says Chea Serey, NBC’s DG. Increasing minimum wages will also put pressure on Cambodia’s competitiveness, she added. Cambodia is a highly dollarised economy, it must be careful to align minimum wage adjustments with productivity increases to keep wage costs in check and stay competitive as a manufacturer for export markets.
Meanwhile, NBC governor Chea Chanto stated that Cambodia’s GDP is estimated to grow 7 per cent in 2017. The garment sector continues to be a major contributor to the GDP, despite its slower growth rate, while the construction and tourism sectors continue to grow, says Chanto.
The uncertainty about the effect of British withdrawal from the EU on Cambodian exports to the UK is also a cause for concern, he added.
C&A, one of Europe’s leading fashion retailers has launched the first Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold products in its stores in 18 European markets. As per aa company report these recyclable T-shirts are made of 100 per cent organic cotton, with safe materials and chemicals and produced in a socially and environmentally responsible way. They have been certified at gold level by the Cradle-to Cradle Product Innovation Institute (C2CPII). The dyes used in the T-shirts available in two styles and 17 colours, were selected from the range of DyStar Levafix and Remazolreactive dyes, which received C2C Gold Level certification for Material Health from C2CPII in 2016.
DyStar strives to be part of a more sustainable future and growing a circular economy, as well as reaffirms its commitment to environmental and human health. The styles were developed in close partnership with Fashion for Good. The DyStar Group is a leading dyestuff and chemical manufacturer and solution provider, offering customers a broad portfolio of colorants, speciality chemicals, and services. DyStar’s key service divisions assist brands and retailers and their industry partners to ensure that they meet stringent quality and ecological specifications, reduce costs and shorten lead times.
The DyStar econfidence programme is designed to provide assurance to textile customers that the dyes and chemicals supplied by DyStar comply with legal requirements. Econfidence also provides expertise so that selected products are compliant with voluntary Restricted Substances Lists (RSLs), including those of brands and retailers.
ShanghaiTex 2017 focuses on latest innovative textile technology, high-growth application sectors and cross-border technology, thereby assisting industry to overcome challenges and spark new opportunities. The next edition will demonstrate the integration of information, internet and mobile electronics technology, breathing new dynamics and value to the industry in response to the customisation trend. To be held at Shanghai New International Expo Center, Pudong, Shanghai, PR China frp, November 27-30, 2017, ShanghaiTex will unleash latest and sustainable denim manufacturing technology and application under the wind of industry 4.0.
A special denim theme zone Eco-Denim Centre will be featured. A series of new and greenovation technologies including dyes, additives, textile chemicals; denim finishing equipment; and laser processing, tailoring equipment will be showcased. ShanghaiTex, is a good trading and networking occasion for industrial elites in the textile industry. The event will host denim and jeans brands, industry players and organisations. Denim makers will explore new business network and opportunities.
Also lined up is Denim Chic which will showcase latest applications of technologies for denim clothing enterprises. High-caliber experts from around the world are invited to share their insight at seminars on the challenges and opportunities of denim industry and introduce latest technology, eco-friendly and fashionable solutions.
Brandix has emerged as Sri Lanka’s most valuable export brand for the third consecutive year, reveals the 2017 Brand Finance rankings of the country’s leading brands. Brandix leads a group of highly respected export brands in apparel, IT, tea, manufacturing, processed foods, services and printing.
According to Brand Finance, the attributes taken into account for the rankings included a brand’s corporate vision, reputation and image, leadership and people, degree of innovation, and quality consciousness. The scale or size of the exporter plays a key role in being included in the listing.
Brandix has been rated as Sri Lanka’s top exporter across all industries for the past four years. In all, the group has won 25 presidential export awards. The pioneer of the concept of total solutions in Sri Lanka’s apparel sector, and a preferred supplier to some of the top retail brands in the US and Europe, Brandix is also a benchmark and international award winner for eco-friendly manufacture and commitment to environmental best practices.
Last year, Brandix was declared the country’s largest exporter overall by the Export Development Board for 2014 and 2015. Brandix has set up a textile park in Andhra Pradesh. The workforce comprises mostly women from rural areas, with schooling between seventh and tenth grades. They are trained to manufacture products for international brands and labels.
Last fiscal year, Bangladesh’s garment shipments to India fell 4.85 per cent year-on-year. One reason is Indian manufacturers are producing the same clothes at cheaper rates. Also Indian importers are not interested in sourcing from Bangladesh because of the 12.5 per cent countervailing duty, an import tax imposed on certain goods in order to prevent dumping or counter export subsidies.
Moreover, previously, India did not allow big industrial groups to invest in garment manufacturing industry but now they are not restricted in printing, dyeing, weaving, spinning or finishing. They can also set up garment manufacturing factories. Therefore, the Indian garment sector has been growing in stature every year and its market share worldwide is also increasing. Since both Bangladesh and India are strong in producing the same kinds of garments, demand for Bangladeshi goods in India is low.
The country will now export goods to India in which it has an advantage and India doesn’t. Not only garments, but also Bangladesh’s overall exports to India has declined in fiscal 2016-17. On the other hand, imports from India have been swelling every year.
The Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) wants the Rebate of State Levies scheme to be continued post GST and inclusion of other state levies not subsumed in GST. The council has also requested for a drawback for central taxes outside the GST purview besides full accumulated input GST tax credit.
AEPC is the apex body of apparel exporters. It raised the issue of embedded blocked taxes which the industry is facing in central taxes. It has drawn attention to the new levies like intra company stock transfers, GST on job work, etc. which have been imposed in the GST regime but which have not been factored in the earlier announced drawback rates. It is felt these new levies will lead to a cost escalation especially in the transitionary phase.
The garment industry welcomes GST as a move to unify the national economy but not at the cost of growth of the apparel sector. AEPC feels GST has diluted most FTP benefits that the industry was availing so far besides putting a huge pressure on working capital. It wants all taxes - direct and indirect—to be reimbursed under the drawback and ROSL benefits. AEPC also wants an exemption for samples sent to buying agents within India or abroad from GST.
Halfway into the year, the Asian Development Bank has raised the estimated GDP growth rate for developing countries in Asia this year and next by a few tenths of a percentage point. In a mid-year supplement to its Asian Development Outlook report, which is updated twice a year, the ADB increased developing Asian countries’ predicted growth rate for this year from 5.7 per cent to 5.9 per cent, while next year’s growth rate was bumped up from 5.7 per cent to 5.8 per cent.
The report also suggests Cambodia’s inflation rate would increase from an earlier prediction of 3.4 per cent because of strong demand and increased food prices. The bank inched up its growth rates for Asia’s developing nations because the region saw higher local prices for consumer goods and a stronger demand for exports than originally predicted.
It has not changed its prediction for southeast Asia’s overall growth rate, which is still expected at 4.8 per cent this year. The Asian Development Bank was conceived in the early 1960s as a financial institution that would be Asian in character and foster economic growth and cooperation in one of the poorest regions in the world.
ADB assists its members, and partners, by providing loans, technical assistance, grants, and equity investments to promote social and economic development.
