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Apparel sales grew by three per cent last year in the US. Overall, the industry had positive performance growth in most categories. The growth of online retail was one of the most highlighted shifts of 2016. In 2011, online was only 11 per cent of total US men’s, women’s, and children’s apparel sales but in 2016 the number rose to 19 per cent.
Online’s continued growth has come at the expense of in-store sales, affecting more traditional apparel department, national chain, and specialty channels. The growth that occurred in the online, off-price, and mass channels came from a consumer focus on convenience, value and price.
Apparel consumer’s desire for a combination of comfort and style has sustained the growth of the athleisure movement. Athleisure, which is heavily driven by millennials but appeals to all age groups, continued to be a top growing apparel segment through 2016 with 11 per cent increase. Sales of tailored clothing increased five per cent and dresses retained their rank as one of the top performing categories in overall sales and growth.
Last year was also positive for jeans, which finally rebounded in 2016. The apparel industry is being pushed and pulled in different directions by consumers who are demanding something different, and looking to less traditional buying channels to find it.
Indigo yarn specialist Unitin, is adding and offering on stock service a new exclusive yarn. This new yarn’s main applications are seamless technology and circular knitting..
The new complete total look capsule collection is composed of body hugging, comfortable, sporty, chic and trendy denim items. This stretch indigo denim concept further enhances the idea of innovative knit denim as a counter-point to traditional woven denim fabric.
The indigo-dyed cotton eliminates the need to dye during the garment process, saving much water. It is available in a range of indigo hues and different denim tones can be achieved. Lenzing has previously worked with Unitin indigo yarns on a flat-bed knit project.
Unitin is the trademark of Industrias Morera, based in Spain, a textile industry specialized in the dye and finishing on piece and yarn. Industrias Morera has been in the textile business since 1924 and has four different departments: yarn die, piece dye, upholstery and denim.
Ralph Lauren, Massimo Dutti and Benetton are three of the clients of Industrias Morera. The denim of these three heavyweights of fashion is woven with the indigo-tinted thread of this company. A few years back Industrias chose to market the indigo-tinted yarn instead of offering only the tincture service.
The Scheme for Integrated Textile Parks (SITP) as launched by the Indian government has not worked as per plan. One reason is high rentals in some parks. There has been a lack of marketing efforts. No special benefits are available for investors in parks and many of the parks are not easily accessible.
Many SPVs were found violating norms as non-textiles units were operating from inside the parks. In fact, a report by Wazir Brothers has indicted my SITPs for not following norms. SITPs were launched in 2005 to encourage private investments and employment generation in the textile sector. The primary objective was to provide the industry with world class state-of-the-art infrastructure for setting up new textile units. The SITP was launched by merging two schemes, Apparel Parks for Exports Scheme and Textiles Center Infrastructure Development Scheme.
The parks would cover all segments of the textile industry such as spinning, weaving, knitting, processing and garmenting. These parks would include apparels and garments, hosiery, silk, technical textiles including medical textiles, carpet and power loom. There are suggestions SITPs should occupy a minimum 1,000 acres area, with infrastructure support in the form of readymade factory sheds, warehouse, effluent collection treatment and disposal systems, incubation centers and testing labs, first aid centers, with express connectivity to seaports and airports.
US cotton currently has a 36 per cent market share of the world cotton trade, and its increasing. The US took advantage of several competitors backing out of the market. India’s demonetization policy kept cotton out of export channels. Reduced export volumes from Pakistan and Uzbekistan also helped move US cotton. Currently cotton profit potential tops corn and soybeans in the Southeast, the delta and the Southwest.
The good news for US cotton producers is that China is reaching a point where it will have to import significant volumes of cotton to maintain a stable minimum reserve. In 2017 and 2018, the balance between China’s stocks and the rest of the world will be closer, with China holding about 39 million bales and the rest of the world holding about 44 million. As China has sold off some of its reserves, ending stocks are still high but are moving in the right direction, down from 112 million bales to 90 million bales.
With China virtually out of the market, other buyers, including Vietnam and Bangladesh, have taken up the space. A number of factors have emerged and will continue to develop in the near future to push US cotton prices up. US production could reach 20 million bales by 2020.
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) has released version 5.0 of textiles standards. GOTS is the worldwide recognized standard for the processing of textiles made with 95 per cent or at least 70 per cent certified organic fibers.
The use of viscose and modal is now restricted to 10 per cent. It’s 25 per cent for sportswear and socks. Lyocell may be used up to 30 per cent because of its more sustainable manufacturing processes. The criteria for the additional fiber material are now stricter regarding environmentally improved and certified regenerated cellulosic fibers. For the first time GOTS will allow combined products such as prams with textile fabrics, bassinets, car seats or furniture with textile fabric upholstery to have certified and labeled fabric components.
Core provisions such as the minimum content of certified organic fibers and the general ban on use of toxic and harmful chemicals, conventional cotton, virgin polyester have been maintained. Version 5.0 includes the tightening of composition requirements with respect to regenerated cellulosic fibers. On the other hand, the new possibility of combined products with fabric components certified to GOTS helps include a range of products that could not carry the GOTS label in the past.
The Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) is promoting the use of banana fiber for making handmade paper bags, statues, pen stands and garments. Once the fabrics match the three categories of fineness, softness and durability, fine, soft and durable yarn is extracted from banana leaves and stitched into clothes.
The banana fiber is most commonly found in hot tropical climates. All varieties of banana plants have fibers in abundance. These fibers are obtained after the fruit is harvested and fall in the group of bast fibers. This plant has long been a good source for high quality textiles in many parts of the world, especially in Japan and Nepal.
Banana fiber was primarily used for making ropes, mats, and some other composite materials. With increasing environmental awareness, and the growing importance of eco-friendly fabrics, the banana fiber is finding application in other fields such as garments and home furnishings. In Japan, it has long been used for making traditional dresses like the kimono. It’s lightweight and comfortable to wear, and is preferred by people in Japan as summer wear.
Rugs made from banana silk yarn fibers are popular the world over. Banana fiber is also used to make cushion covers, neckties, bags, table cloths, curtains etc.
Creativity, sustainable technology, reliability and quality are the characteristics which have made Italy a global leader in manufacturing of textile machinery. Exports amount for more than 86 per cent of total sales. And 30 per cent of Italy’s revenue from sale of textile machinery derives from the production of technical and innovative textiles. Demand for such products has consequently also driven up demand for ad hoc machinery specifically designed for this sector. The offering promoted by Italy’s textile machinery industry is thus expanding to new demands of customers operating in this specific sector.
In recent years, the technical and innovative textiles industry has seen a great deal of development in many markets, and especially in Europe. Italy is the world’s second largest producer of machinery for the textiles industry. In the production of machinery for tanning, and for the footwear and leather goods industry, Italy accounts for over 50 per cent of world production.
Orders for Italian textile machinery for October to December 2016 period rose five per cent compared to the same period previous year. For the first nine months of 2016 there was a three per cent increase compared to the same period in 2015. Around 70 Italian machinery manufacturers are slated to take part in Techtextil, Germany, May 9 to 12.
China International Nonwovens Expo (CINE) will be held from June 21 to 23. The expo last year featured over 80 exhibitors, with nonwovens products for medical, filtration, building and other industries on display. It is ideally suited for companies in the fields of nonwoven and nonwoven products, machinery and ancillaries for nonwovens, raw materials and chemicals for nonwovens, and nonwoven industry related services.
China is the world’s largest producer, exporter and consumer of nonwoven fabrics, and over the past decade, growth in these three areas has been rapid. From 2011-15, nonwovens output grew on an average annual growth rate of 11.7 per cent. The country now occupies 40 per cent of global output. During this same period, sales of nonwovens in China grew 21.6 per cent while exports increased by 13.9 per cent.
From 2016-20, Asia is expected to occupy 47.1 per cent of the global market consumption share. Within Asia, China, India and Japan will account for 77 per cent of nonwoven consumption, with China alone predicted to comprise around 57 per cent of this consumption. Efforts to reduce industrial pollution in China have led to a surge in demand for filtration nonwovens. New requirements for cleaner air and water and lower carbon-dioxide output are driving growth in the filtration nonwoven industry.
Planet Textiles will be held in Bangalore on May 24. This year’s summit will be dominated by issues like: water availability, costs, efficiency and environmental solutions in textile dyeing and wastewater discharge; water use, disposal, and remediation in the denim industry; water conservation in wet processing, and wastewater discharge in the textile supply chain.
The event will also feature a special breakout session hosted by the ZDHC Group. ZDHC will reveal results of pilot testing from studies at textile mills that have adopted its pioneering wastewater discharge guidelines. ZDHC hopes that brands and retailers will roll out these guidelines across their textile supply chains worldwide.
From 2017, Planet Textiles will focus more strongly on the implementation and practical side of sustainability in the textile supply chain with real-world case studies and examples of best practice. This year’s event partner will be leading manmade cellulosic fiber supplier Lenzing, which will unveil its latest sustainability report.
Water use in cotton agriculture will feature strongly at the event. India happens to be the world’s largest cotton producer. Cotton textile conglomerate Pratibha Syntex will give an overview of how it has reduced water consumption at factory and the farm. Some of the sponsors are: textile standard Oeko-Tex, and Covestro, a leading supplier of high-tech polymers and raw materials for the textile and footwear sector.
"Apparel Sourcing And Shawls & Scarves – The Accessories Showcase Paris, Avantex Paris and Texworld Paris, held at Paris Le Bourget from February 6 to 9, 2017 received tremendous response from global visitors. Messe Frankfurt's February 2017 trade shows in Paris demonstrated calm optimism with a total of 13,559 visitors, an increase of 6.9 per cent compared to February 2016 show. The uncertainty experienced in February 2016, due to challenging security issues, returned to normal."
Apparel Sourcing And Shawls & Scarves – The Accessories Showcase Paris, Avantex Paris and Texworld Paris, held at Paris Le Bourget from February 6 to 9, 2017 received tremendous response from global visitors. Messe Frankfurt's February 2017 trade shows in Paris demonstrated calm optimism with a total of 13,559 visitors, an increase of 6.9 per cent compared to February 2016 show. The uncertainty experienced in February 2016, due to challenging security issues, returned to normal. Indeed, a situation that puts the fashion industries back in an ideal position to move on. Europeans and American visitors saw an average increase of 6 per cent during this show.
Focus on new business opportunities
The French are keener than ever to attend the show and numbers grew for the 3rd show in succession, amounting to 12 per cent this time. Italian visitors are up 9 per cent and those from Spain also saw 3 per cent increase. Extremely stable figures for the UK, which still remains the second-most represented country. The conspicuous presence of numerous trade visitors from Greece, an increase of 13 per cent, is evidence of a return to form for this well-known player in the sector
Americans found their way back to Paris trade shows organised compared to February 2016, there is a 9 per cent increase in attendance. The South American continent too was not lagging behind and displayed a strong interest in the trade shows' fashion business platform with increased attendance from Brazil and Argentina (36 per cent) and from Mexico (5 per cent).
Contractors from Asia were not lacking either, up by 9 per cent. Growing interest from African trade visitors: 17 per cent. The new Texworld and Apparel Sourcing shows in Addis Ababa are no doubt not without relevance in this scenario for the business platform for all fashion-related industries. Top five visitor countries were: France, UK, Spain, Turkey, and Italy.
Apparel Sourcing Paris
“A truly successful show, both for visitors and exhibitors who regard it a positive result not experienced for quite a long time. The show got off to an excellent start on the very first day. The market was confident, less hesitant and more assured in terms of activities. With regard to apparel sourcing, it must also be said that visitors to this show had full authority to make decisions. Qualifications did not escape the notice of exhibitors. The latter have also praised the great diversity of fashion brands that were represented: major global players through to young companies having acquired a certain reputation and including well-established ready-to-wear names. This diversity is reflected in buyers’ countries of origin; Russians, British, French and above all North and South Americans were frequently to be seen at the stands,” reports Michael Scherpe, President of Messe Frankfurt France.
Visitors have also been curious, based on their business strategy. As Uzbek Ibragimov Rustam Ismailovich from Imir, a manufacturer of men’s suits, said, “We have made plenty of contacts among proactive visitors who have shown a keen interest and asked numerous questions about the Uzbek clothing industry.
Avantex Paris
Avantex Paris, the trade fair dedicated to innovative solutions and products for fashion, strengthened its position and built on meaningful discussions between fashion and new technologies. The organisation was lauded by exhibitors and visitors alike for its flow, clear and uncluttered presentation, arranged around the agora, which is the centre for panel discussions and discussions on future prospects. The 4th Avantex Paris show provided a global, transverse offer for the innovative fashion. Textile manufacturers, colleges, institutions and high-tech designers (for prototyping, eco design and manufacture, marketing and sales, the blending of new functionalities with fashion products etc.) were all present at a meeting of the vanguard of the textile industry.
Texworld Paris
Spring had very nearly arrived in the aisles at Texworld Paris, the trade fair for fabrics, trimmings and accessories for fashion: bringing a breath of fresh air with new products and giving some 730 exhibitors an urge to roll up their sleeves and get things moving. Visitors demonstrated (renewed) confidence in their choices and a definite determination to bring their projects to a successful conclusion. ‘Order’ was without the slightest doubt the word spoken most during conversations at this show, while not so long ago ‘contact’ was the buzzword. However, the word ‘contact’ was still popular, very much heard during the four days of the show, mainly combined with the adjective ‘new’. The great majority of exhibitors observed the arrival of fashion brands and businesses, of major groups or luxury ready-to-wear brands, that were not – or sometimes were no longer – in their portfolio of clients.
Their satisfaction was all the greater because their usual customers were also there to see them. “Our exhibitors are very satisfied with this show as many buyers have come to see us. The layout of stands facilitated contact, which made for a good business climate. We already knew very many visitors and we can now rank Spain and the UK among our new customers. We have attended Texworld Paris for nine years and I can tell you that it is an event definitely not to be missed”, says Kelly Parc from the Korean Textile Centre.
