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Surging yarn prices have hit the powerloom units in Tamil Naud’s Erode district. So much so that loom owners have now decided to cut production by downing their shutters once in a week in order to stay in the business by avoiding huge losses. Though loom owners are trying their best to clock a handsome business ahead of Diwali, they are finding it difficult to meet orders as yarn prices have gone up. This was disclosed by K Suresh, President of Erode Powerloom Owners Association (EPOA).
In the current scenario, powerloom weavers are forced to up prices of their products and as a result, sales have come down. There are more than one lakh powerloom units in Erode district and Pallipalayam and Kumarapalayam in Namakkal district. They usually use cotton and Viscose Rayon yarns to make the products.
The retail sector needs to work across all aspects of production process to achieve closed loop clothing, said H&M’s sustainability manager Catarina Midby while addressing the Textiles Recycling Conference in London. She spoke of the importance of working across the spectrum to achieve the best recycling rates while being cost conscious.
With over 4,000 shops worldwide, H&M is committed to a goal of being 100 per cent circular in terms of how its fashion is made and used. The goal is to use 100 per cent recycled or other sustainably sourced material, Midby informed. H & M works across the entire chain from design to how raw materials are sourced and grown, all the way through to the product reaching the customer, she added.
H&M is committed to a goal of being 100 per cent circular in terms of how its fashion is made and used. Globally the company through its recycling scheme, which it runs through stores, has collected 36,000 tonnes of material, she told delegates.
Upon hearing the word pollution, we usually think of smoke and dust filled roads that affect the environment. However, we are not aware that the fashion industry is the second largest polluting industry in the world, oil being number one, says a report of Eco Warrior Princess.
Adding to the issue of pollution, also comes the problem of over production within the fashion industry. We are not aware that 30 per cent of garments and clothing made in this world are such that consumers would desist buying, the report adds.
This enormous excess of clothing is turned to landfill or burned. This act is simply at which is completely shameful considering there are ways in which clothing can easily be reused and recycled.
This year particularly, there has been much criticism and judgment towards the fashion industry from people in all areas of experience. Essentially, there are too many clothes in the world and our greediness combined with unsustainable consumption is leading us towards major economic and environmental trouble, the report divulges.
Overproduction in fashion is the process of producing a much higher number of goods compared to the demand. Therefore, the manufacturer’s factories are too big in size and large amounts of products that are left unsold build up. A smarter design process is how this problem will eventually erode with clearer communication between brands and factories and creating a business plan that caters for sustainability.
These smarter design procedures are increasingly being applied on a much larger scale with both accomplished and new designers looking to overcome this issue. The T-shared zero waste tee is high in quality, made with the most admirable organic materials, each custom to the buyer and made to last.
With the official prêt-à-porter calendar coming to a close, most of Paris’ women’s trade shows that were highlighting their spring/summer ’17 came to an end on Monday. And what was seen while the shows were on is that there were plenty of things to see.
Tranoi’s ca. 650 women’s wear exhibitors were once again spread out over three locations: Next to the classic and history-loaded venues of the Louvre and La Bourse, this season the trade show also occupied the Cité de la Mode by the other side of the Seine. All the venues hosted a similar, very international mix of women’s wear and accessory brands from new to established, sporty to dressy and clean to pompous.
In its regular abode near République, Woman hosted around 100 brands from the upper casual segment in its cozy, family-like atmosphere. While big draft horses were missing, there were lots of interesting newcomers who could be spotted especially from the US and the Asian continent.
The Berlin Showroom brought a reduced selection (11) of some of Germany’s most interesting fashion designers to the Paris audience. Then, at the Tuileries Gardens, Premiere Classe hosted Paris’ largest selection of footwear, bags, accessories and jewelry with almost 500 (a mix of both popular and lesser known exhibitors) sub-divided into three tents. And in respect to the show’s ready-to-wear concept, Paris sur Mode, showed ca. 100 clothing brands plus the newly established Don’t Believe the Hype area with 15 brands including interesting names such as Lupe or Sunspel and an incorporated mini-version of the Capsule trade show.
All in all, it was noticed that all important buyers showed up in Paris once again. Clearly Paris has the most international audience of all European trade show grounds. Antoine Floch, co-founder and director of the Man/Woman shows reported 90 per cent international visitors of which many were from Japan, Korea, China and United Emirates beside the USA and continental Europe.
Brexit did send shock waves to the entire world. However, it will only happen when the UK government triggers Article 50 of the Lisbon Treaty and formally begins its withdrawal from the EU. As per Article 50, UK has to enter into fresh negotiations with member states about the terms of its departure. This process can take up to two years with the possibility of an extension to a longer negotiation period. With no clear timeline set, Brexit cannot be a possibility for at least in the coming two years.
UK, being a developed country and a major consumption center, imports variety of textile and apparel products from the world. Its textile and apparel imports in 2015 stood at $35 billion. That has grown at a CAGR of 1.2 per cent from $33 billion in 2010. The textile and apparel export is also predominant in total merchandise exports of India to UK vis-à-vis EU. Textile and apparel exports accounted for more than one fourth of the merchandise exports to UK while it has share of 21 per cent in the total exports to EU during 2015-16. In short, Brexit will have negative implications on UK’s textile and apparel imports due to devaluation of the Pound.
Bangladesh's Jamdani textiles, Dhakai Jamdani, Bangladesh's finest muslin textiles is set to be registered as the country's first Geographical Indication (GI) product this month, a media report has stated. This was disclosed by senior secretary of the Industries Ministry M Mosharraf Hossain Bhuiyan while addressing the 56th annual meeting of the World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO) in Geneva.
The Department of Patents, Designs and Trademarks (DPDT) that comes under the Industries Ministry will provide the registration for Jamdani. Bhuiyan revealed that the government attaches highest importance to preserving intellectual property for ensuring knowledge-based industrialisation. Bhuiyan, who led a two-member Bangladeshi delegation to the WIPO meeting, said that Bangladesh, in association with the WIPO, has already implemented the Industrial Property Rights project with a view to preserve, develop and register intellectual property. The historic production of Jamdani was patronised by imperial warrants of the Mughal emperors. The term Jamdani is a Persian word derived from 'Jam' meaning flower and Dani, a vase or a container.
In its report, Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety has said that 55 per cent of high-priority repairs and 63 per cent of all required repairs in its affiliated readymade garment (RMG) factories have been completed. In the coming year, the Alliance will focus on critical safety repairs that are most important for life safety and establishment of worker safety committees.
As per the report, 55 per cent high-priority items have been completed, 41 per cent is in progress while 4 per cent is yet to start. While the remediation of 43 per cent factories is on track, 30 per cent need intervention, 6 per cent have completed Corrective Action Plans (CAPs), while 1 per cent are in a critical situation and 20 per cent shared factories are being remediated by Accord.
To date, 55 per cent of high-priority repairs across all Alliance-affiliated factories have been completed, the report added. It is said that by July 2018, all Alliance-related factories will have either completed their high-priority repairs or have been suspended from the Alliance’s list of suppliers.
"Lately there has been much controversy surrounding Monsanto’s Bt cotton, the sustainable agriculture company. The controversy has spawned first of its kind intellectual property (IP) disputes in India, involving at least 15 different proceedings in various courts, government agencies and tribunals. Interestingly, another controversy has emerged around two IP regimes: the Patents Act or the Protection of Plant Varieties and Farmers’ Rights Act (PPVFRA). Experts say both these legislations apply and one does not necessarily trump the other."
Lately there has been much controversy surrounding Monsanto’s Bt cotton, the sustainable agriculture company. The controversy has spawned first of its kind intellectual property (IP) disputes in India, involving at least 15 different proceedings in various courts, government agencies and tribunals. Interestingly, another controversy has emerged around two IP regimes: the Patents Act or the Protection of Plant Varieties and Farmers’ Rights Act (PPVFRA). Experts say both these legislations apply and one does not necessarily trump the other.
BT cotton patenting process
Monsanto patented a number of components related to Bt cotton, a biotech invention involving the infusion of Bt gene into cotton genome. Bt stands for Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacteria that kills the pest that has perennially plagued the cotton plant. The patent does not cover the plant itself, as plants and animals are ineligible for patent protection in India. However, microbiological processes and microorganisms are patentable under the Indian Patents Act, and Monsanto’s patents cover most of these components. Using the patented technology, Monsanto created a host of donor Bt cotton seeds and distributed them to seed companies under specific agreements mandating the payment of royalties while seed companies used these donor seeds to introgress the desirable genetic trait into their own specific hybrid varieties by backcrossing.
Monsanto’s patents cover various components of the technology embedded in the donor seeds handed out to seed companies. Any seed company that uses this donor seed and creates a new plant variety is entitled to register such variety under the PPVFRA.This new plant variety registration, however, does not extinguish Monsanto’s upsteam patent rights. Neither does the patent right override the plant variety protection. They co-exist. The seed companies cannot commercialise their hybrids without a patent licence from Monsanto similarly, Monsanto cannot sell or distribute these hybrids without permission from the seed company.
Policy paradox plagues system
It is clear if Monsanto refuses to licence the seed companies, they can move for a compulsory licence (CL) under the Patents Act, provided they satisfy the terms of Section 84, which states that a CL could be granted if the patented invention is exorbitantly priced or not available in reasonable quantities to the public or is not being worked in the territory in India. But this licence application has to be under the terms of the Patents Act, and not the PPVFRA. As per news reports, there are pending invalidity proceedings before both the IPAB (Intellectual Property Appellate Board) as also the DIPP (Department of Industrial Policy and Promotion).
The DIPP proceeding is a particularly interesting one as Section 66 of the Patents Act invokes an exceptional provision that provides for revocation on grounds that the patent is “mischievous to the state or generally prejudicial to the public”. The key contention appears to be that the patent is no longer effective, given the pest resistance that developed over time.
The paradoxical situation is that while the Ministry of Agriculture has recently issued a draft notification qualifying GM technology as an industry “standard” that must mandatorily be licensed on FRAND (Fair, Reasonable and Non-Discriminatory) terms to as many seed companies as possible, another one (DIPP) insists that the technology is of no use.Further to worsen the situation Ministry of Agriculture, with no jurisdictional competence over patent issues, suggest ed Monsanto’s patents over upstream GM technology must necessarily yield to downstream plant variety rights.
It is a matter of deep concern as government agencies are flouting the rule of law. Experts believe while there may be merit in regulating GMO patents, this must be done after following due processes, through relevant competent authority and not through abusive lawmaking that benefit certain interest groups. Moreover, it is not clear why the government chooses to concentrate all its eggs in the Bt cotton basket. Particularly when its own institutes contend that even Bollgard-II technology is succumbing to progressive pest resistance. The government should encourage a diversity of approaches entailing both GM technology and traditional processes.
According to World Bank senior economist Sodeth Ly, the garment sector has been the strongest driver of growth. Speaking at the release of the Bank’s latest biannual East Asia and Pacific Economic Update he said garment being a footloose industry, it can move quickly from one country to another. For this, the exposure is significant.
China and its affiliates like Taiwan, Hong Kong and Macau made up more for than 90 per cent of investment in the garment industry while local investment made up just 1.4 per cent of the total, according to the report. Nevertheless, buoyed by increasing exports to Europe, the sector is expected to contribute 2 percentage points to growth in gross domestic product this year, propping up a robust growth rate of 7 per cent for the country. That forecast is a slight on the upper side from April’s report which predicted a growth of 6.9 per cent next year. The World Bank also forecasts the same for the next two years.
Regionally, Southeast Asia is among the fastest growing areas of the world, a rare bright spot amid the sluggishness of advanced economies, claimed Sudhir Shetty, World Bank’s chief economist for East Asia and the Pacific, who appeared at Wednesday’s briefing via video link from Washington. The good news is that for most countries there’s a window of accommodating financial environments in advanced economies.
Textile Exchange has gone into a partnership with NSF.
US-based consultancy Textile Exchange and NSF a non-profit public health organization have joined hands and aim to work together. NSF works globally with the full range of textile supply networks including farmers, processors, manufacturers and multinational brands. It independently tests, audits, certifies, trains and consults for the food, water, health science, sustainability and consumer product sectors.
NSF has more than 70 years of standards development experience. Textile Exchange's textile industry experience is expected to help broaden NSF’s scope beyond its current expertise, which lies in animal welfare, food, safer chemicals, building products and materials, and water quality.
The partnership will be mutually beneficial, with NSF making targeted investments in Textile Exchange’s global operations, information systems and personnel, while also sharing its expertise and resources related to standards development, certification, proprietary supply chain technology and global marketing.
By working together, they hope to expand their reach globally, work more deeply within existing programs and maximise the positive impact they are making. The organisations have similar missions and have worked together closely in the past. This strategic partnership is a natural fit since they are both committed to, and working diligently to, protect the environment and human health through sustainability standards, certification and supply chain services in several sectors.
