Uncertainty over Britain’s continuation in EU has hit a third of businesses in the UK’s manufacturing sector, which barely scraped growth in May, says a recent study. Foreign demand for goods from British factories fell for a fifth month as firms reported customers were unwilling to commit to investment ahead of the June 23 referendum.

Uncertainty over Britain’s continuation in EU has hit a third of businesses in the UK’s manufacturing sector, which barely scraped growth in May, says a recent study. Foreign demand for goods from British factories fell for a fifth month as firms reported customers were unwilling to commit to investment ahead of the June 23 referendum. CIPS survey of the 427 businesses reported 27 per cent saying a potential Brexit was having a detrimental impact on business, while a 8 per cent said impact was a strongly detrimental. However, 50.8 per cent said they expected it to have no significant effect.

And as CBI Director-General, Carolyn Fairbairn has warned that leaving the EU could cause a serious shock to the UK economy, with a potential cost to UK GDP of £100 billion and 950,000 jobs by 2020 and negative echoes that could last many years after that. Indeed, when talks about Britain’s exit from the EU first started in early 2015, it seemed absurd. The idea of putting the matter to a direct public vote appeared unlikely, an actual “Brexit” seemed completely implausible. But 18 months later, with a national referendum just weeks away and public sentiment stirred up by an unprecedented migration crisis on top of the on-going European debt crisis, which has seen countries like Greece bailed out by the rest of the Eurozone, opinion polls on Brexit are much too close for comfort for British prime minister David Cameron, who has staked his political future on a “Remain” vote.
While experts say Brexit would affect manufacturing, the textiles and fashion industry is expected to take a hard hit both in UK and across the world. UK’s fashion industry contributed an estimated £26 billion to the economy in 2014.
To begin with under the ‘FTA scenario’, the UK negotiates a free trade agreement with no tariffs on exports and imports between the UK and Europe by 2020. As it is no longer in the single market, it experiences a modest rise in non-trade barriers. The UK is assumed to maintain existing free trade agreements with other countries currently held by the EU, and signs a new trade deal with the US. The ‘WTO scenario’ is based on the UK failing to secure a deal with the EU and therefore, trading under World Trade Organisation rules after leaving. Tariff and non-tariff barriers with the EU rise significantly. The UK loses its existing free trade agreements with other countries, but renegotiates them on the same terms by 2026 and signs a deal with the US in the same year. If the UK leaves the EU without a free trade deal, 90 per cent of British exports to the EU, by value, could face tariffs. Some sectors could be hit particularly hard. Under WTO rules, UK textile exports to the EU could face tariffs of nearly 10 per cent.
And as Fairbarn says, products imported from the EU into the UK could also face tariffs – passing the costs onto customers through higher prices. Even as part of the EEA or EFTA, rules of origin reporting and VAT payments at borders make it harder for small firms to trade with the EU. So, in short, leaving the EU could mean the return of significant barriers to trade.
Moreover, the British currency is expected to depreciate after the exit. Already, the debate over Brexit has had a dramatic impact on the country's currency. According to HSBC if Britain votes “Leave,” its value could fall by a further 20 per cent. And this could significantly affect bottomlines of British fashion businesses, as many outsource production to countries such as China, where they pay in dollars. (British clothing and home furnishing retailers source about three-quarters of their goods from Asia, according to financial services firm UBS.) A weaker pound would make these deals more expensive, leaving British businesses to either shoulder the costs, or pass them on to consumers.
Also, British fashion companies that do a significant volume of sales abroad — such as Burberry — could experience a dip in profits. “If their costs are largely in pounds, but their revenues are in euros or dollars, the euros and dollars they would get from abroad would buy a larger amount of pounds,” explains Luca Solca, head of luxury goods at Exane BNP Paribas.
Experts say if British vote to leave, it could lead to a rise in apparel prices. With falling pound it is likely to impact consumer prices and imports in Britain. The cost of a weaker pound impacts all retailers, which may be passed on to consumers. There by making clothes more expensive for the end consumer.
Another fall out will be on London’s top fashion education system, a Brexit would also be bad news. British fashion education benefits from EU investment in the form of research funding and initiatives that support innovation and bring together fashion designers, manufacturers and technology partners from across Europe. Moreover the EU’s open borders have made it easy for many fashion houses and companies to operate on both sides of the English Channel. But with Britain’s exit, brands would have second thoughts about establishing their headquarters or their creative departments in London.
The bottomline thus is Brexit would weaken the pound, negatively impact consumer confidence, push up prices, open up trade regulations and threaten free movement of talent. The loss would be on the fashion industry, both in Britain and the world.
According to latest official figures, Bangladesh’s apparel export will predictably cross this fiscal year’s target as the earning is already more than $25bn with one month left before another year begins. The target was set at $27.37bn for the FY2015-16 after earning $25.49bn in last fiscal. After Rana Plaza tragedy in 2013, observers prophesied that the country’s biggest export industry might face severe image crisis and suffer loss of global market share. But it has continued to shine ever since as a lot of investment has been made to improve factories’ safety standards with the help of its Western retailers.
This demonstrates in the sector’s nearly 9.44 per cent growth to reach $25.08bn in first 11 months of the current fiscal year. RMG makers believe improvement of safety standards and progress of remediation work in factories has helped to restore buyers’ confidence. Now if the RMG wants to further accelerate the growth in the years to come, experts think focus should be given on productivity, manufacturing medium and higher-end products and exploring markets other than traditional ones.
According to provisional data of Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), of the total amount earned in last 11 months, woven products fetched $13.16bn with a 12 per cent growth and knitwear products $11.92bn with 6.74 per cent from the same period last year.
UK will host a fashion industry conference ‘The Emperor's New Clothes’ at the University of Leeds in the North of England on September 8. It will enable participants to explore points of difference, challenge myths and preconceptions, and consider alternative approaches for a more sustainable fashion and textiles future. The conference is organised by researchers from the School of Design at the University of Leeds and will host speakers and attendees from a diverse range of backgrounds, industry and academia, design and technology, micro enterprises and industrial giants.
Among the speakers is Dr Alison Gwilt, Reader in fashion and sustainability at Sheffield Hallam University, who is a fashion design researcher, author and consultant who explores and promotes a range of innovative design methods and approaches that seek to enable the fashion and textiles community to adopt more sustainable and ethical practices.
Professor William Young teaches sustainability and business, and is co-director of the sustainability research institute at the University of Leeds. William's research is focused on consumer behavior around sustainability issues. He will be talking about the mainstreaming of sustainability issues in consumer attitudes along with some behaviors and how retailers and consumer-citizens are filling the void being left by slow government action.
The keynote address will be by Kate Fletcher, a professor of sustainability, design and fashion at London College of Fashion. Kate has written more than 50 scholarly and popular publications in the fashion field.
Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) and the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) have signed a new MoU, signifying another step in their five-year-old partnership to drive environmental and social best practices in the global apparel, textile and footwear supply chain.
The objectives detailed in this third MoU include: ensuring broad adoption and alignment around the Higg Index as the ‘go-to’ supply chain sustainability management tool for companies in the industry sectors in which it applies, starting with apparel and footwear; avoid duplication of efforts among groups and serve as a model for other industries as a collaborative effort and catalyst for change among others.
The new agreement includes specific Higg Index adoption targets set by OIA for its members as well as a commitment from the SAC to provide OIA members with access to the Higg Index web tool through 2017 and beyond. (OIA is subsidizing small to medium enterprise members’ access to the tool in 2016 as part of its campaign to boost broader adoption of the Higg Index.) To date, 53 outdoor industry brands have Higg.org accounts, 43 Brand Modules are in progress or completed, and 21 Brand Modules have been posted.
Over 319 companies from 28 countries, an increase of 20 per cent more than at the previous event in 2012 have registered to present their latest products and innovations at the world’s leading trade fair for textile care ‘Texcare International 2016’ which will open its doors in Frankfurt am Main from June 11 to 15, 2016. For the first time, Hall 9 is being used in addition to Hall 8, which means the fair occupies 30 per cent more exhibition space than four years ago. Wolfgang Marzin, Chairman of the Board of Management of Messe Frankfurt explains that he was delighted about the increase in the size of Texcare, an outstanding result that underscores its significance as the world’s leading trade fair for modern textile care. All market leaders are here in Frankfurt to launch their innovations onto the world market.
Visitors to Texcare come from the dry-cleaning trade, industrial laundries and the textile-service sector.
The clothing and textile industry in South Africa is beginning to stabilise after years of turmoil and job losses. Competitiveness has risen partly as a result of support programs. Measures have been taken over the last few years to defend South African borders against the influx of illegal imports flooding the market. Support has been provided through the Clothing and Textile Competitiveness Program, which ensured that 65,000 jobs were kept and 7000 new ones created.
The footwear and leather industry has also been revived. It now contributes significantly to export earnings, with 20 new factories having been opened. Clothing and textile companies have adapted to the fast fashion approach, getting a product to retailers faster than imported goods. Currently, minimal export takes place, even though opportunities are there. There is the African Growth and Opportunity Act, which the industry hasn’t exploited yet. There is the advantage of the weak currency, which too hasn’t been exploited.
South African shopping malls have more of global retail players than of South African fashion. So the shopping malls today are increasingly becoming indistinguishable from retail malls elsewhere in the world. Well-branded domestically produced fashion is often absent.
According to a consortium of environmental groups, most companies using cotton do nearly nothing to improve environmental sustainability in their supply. A report titled ‘Top Brands Failing on Cotton Sustainability’, compiled by Rank a Brand, one of Europe’s largest brand-comparison sites on sustainability and corporate social responsibility in conjunction with World Wildlife Fund - Solidaridad and Pesticide Action network UK, reveals that 29 of the estimated 37 biggest cotton users scored in the red in a recent survey of policy, sourcing, use and traceability.
Interestingly, H&M, which is known for its poor manufacturing oversight, dirt-cheap textiles, rampant green washing initiatives and its connection with repeated manufacturing tragedies, scores remarkably well on the Rank list, thereby raising questions as to the credibility of the list. H&M's favorable placement, however, is almost certainly due to the fact that only publicly available information was used in scoring company performance, the environmental groups said. Also placed highly on the list is Ikea, the only company to fall within the ‘Leading the Way’ category. This is followed by ‘On its Way,’ a level occupied by H&M and Adidas. Next up: ‘Starting the Journey,’ which include Kering (parent company to Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, and others) and Marks & Spencer. And ranking poorly, in the ‘Not Yet in the Starting Blocks’ category’ is Burberry, Macy’s, LVMH, Uniqlo’s parent company Fast Retailing, Coach, Gap, Ralph Lauren and Richemont.
Leading garment exporter of Bangladesh, Envoy Textiles has been recognised by a US organisation for its green initiatives that helped save a significant amount of energy and water in its production process. Envoy Textiles received the Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design's (LEED) platinum certification - the first Bangladeshi exporter to get the recognition from US-based Green Building Council in the denim category.
Platinum is the highest level of green-factory certification that a structure can earn and LEED is a popular green building certification programme used worldwide. The procedure includes a set of rating systems for design, construction, operation, and maintenance of green buildings, homes, and neighborhoods. The programme aims to help building owners and operators be environmentally responsible and use resources efficiently. Envoy Textiles saves 30 per cent electricity by means of the green initiatives, according to Abdus Salam Murshedy, managing director of the company.
The factory in Bhaluka of Mymensingh produces high-value denim fabrics for renowned retailers such as Marks & Spencer, GAP, Wrangler, Tesco and Next. This recognition is a reward for the 10-year old factory after it met standards by improving working conditions and adopting the environmental protection system in its production process.
Vietnam’s exports to China for the first five months of 2016, has gone up by 16.5 per cent year on year while imports from China fell 3.67 per cent. Vietnam mainly imports machines, equipment, mobile phones, computers, fabrics, iron and steel from China.
Vietnam expects to ship about $20 billion worth of commodities to China and spend $48 billion on imports from partners this year. Its trade deficit with China would total $28 billion, 13.6 per cent lower than last year’s $32.4 billion dollars. The contraction could be a good sign for Vietnam which has long been dependent on exported goods from China. However, China still enjoys a vast surplus in cross-border trade.
The United States continues to be Vietnam’s biggest buyer, importing $14.6 billion worth of commodities from Vietnam, up 14.9 per cent compared to the same period last year. It was followed by the European Union with $13.3 billion in imports, up 11 per cent.
Vietnam had $134 billion in trade revenue with foreign partners during the period, with an export turnover of $67.7 billion, up 6.6 per cent year on year, and an import value of $66.3 billion, down 0.9 per cent.
The auction of Chinese cotton reserves began on May 3, 2016. The results in the first week showed a very active participation of spinners with a purchase rate of 99.9 per cent. This purchase rate is much higher than the 3.4 per cent purchase rate for all of 2015. Out of the 1,21,165 metric tons offered, 1,20,350 metric tons were purchased by spinners. Of the total volume purchased, 27,671 metric tons were domestic cotton and 92,679 metric tons were imported cotton. The imported cotton offered in the auctions was fully purchased while the domestic crop was 97.2 per cent purchased.
US and Australian cotton were the most popular during the auctions and were also purchased at a higher price. So the high purchase rate indicates a shortage of cotton, specifically high-grade imported cotton, in the Chinese market.
The auction floor price offered this year appeared to be acceptable to buyers compared to last year. The high rate of purchase is likely to continue at least during the first weeks as Chinese mills are short of cotton. Spinning mills are the main buyers. However, some traders are also involved in auctions mainly to source imported cotton as some of them see a recovery in global cotton prices.
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