Denim is emerging from its purely masculine look to reveal more subtle and sensual fabrics with no gender attached. The result is high-end fabrications intended for tailored trousers, jackets and outerwear. There’s fluidity between fashion and denim. Whereas denim tends to dwell on the past—be it heritage work wear or nostalgic ’90s—the new season has shades of blue, novelty textures and a focus on how denim can adapt to its new niche market, including sport, street wear and evening.

Wool aspects can be visible such as natural-looking surfaces with irregular yarns or hidden as brushed wool on the inside of a jacket. Pinstripes, herringbones, Prince of Wales check and classic window pane patterns play up the tailoring story but are updated in blue.

To contrast, relaxed heavy denim inspired by street style is gaining momentum in the men’s and women’s categories. The trend is urban, graphic and inventive. Fabrications are made with thicker yarns to add softness and fullness to silhouettes. Nonchalant styling like cozy knits and cocoon-like shapes are key. Techniques that pump-up volume, such as smocking placed on shoulders to create an exaggerated ruffle, are made simply to surprise. Color blocking and contrast stitching add a youthful feeling.