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Collaboration & innovation – the highlights of Interfiliere 2017

"With a new avatar, this year’s Interfilière edition was all about new collaborations and closer alliance between the lingerie and swimwear show. Experimental work from St Martins School of Art, with students demonstrating new bio-materials, and even a French underwear brand called Spartan explaining men’s briefs with silver fibre to shield the wearer’s delicate parts from mobile phone radiation, offered innovative streaks of new age professionals."

 

 

Collaboration and innovation the highlights of Interfiliere 2017

 

With a new avatar, this year’s Interfilière edition was all about new collaborations and closer alliance between the lingerie and swimwear show. Experimental work from St Martins School of Art, with students demonstrating new bio-materials, and even a French underwear brand called Spartan explaining men’s briefs with silver fibre to shield the wearer’s delicate parts from mobile phone radiation, offered innovative streaks of new age professionals.

Prints reigning the closet

Like last year, prints were a hit this year too. A special exhibition was dedicated to print technologies, including 3D printing that can create innovative solutions. Dutch start-up brand Mesh demonstrated customisable, bespoke bras using scanning, 3D printing to prototype bras for customers. Creatures founder, Dan Walters described the overall print trend as being ‘full on print’ prints were also texturally very sensuous.

Collaboration innovation the highlights of Interfiliere 2017

 

Collaborations were the spotlight during the entire event. For instance, Asahi Kasei and Wolford has been collaborating to improve the luxury hosiery line’s product range with the ‘Salad Collection of hosiery’ made with Roica’s Eco Smart Family of premium stretch fibres supporting Wolford’s Gold Certified Cradle to Cradle standards. This means the garment has an end of life certification that it can break down naturally without polluting the environment with harmful materials according to the Hohentein Environmental Compatibility Certification. The tights will be in shops for AW 18-19. Roica is also working with lace manufacturer Iluna to bring added value to ranges by luxury lingerie brand Aubade.

The Willy Hermann/Invista partnership created the ‘Casual Bra’ project. Bralettes for smaller cup sizes and wire-free bras for bigger cup-sizes, as well as performance fabrics for sports bras have been major focusses for Willy Hermann. Using differing percentages of Lycra has been part of the answer, with percentages as high as 48 per cent Lycra for the natural support ranges.

In intimate wear, comfort is one of the most important parameter. Shape wear companies are taking note of this with the use of control panels and using fabrics, fibres and design to create shape wear that supports, moulds, contours without constriction and excessive compression. Easy to apply, wear and wash garments add value to the wardrobe.

Athleisure has also been creating a new wave of growth for intimate wear companies. Work Leisure engages with professional’s 360 lifestyle, where there is a need for clothes that can be worn to run or bike to work and then head to a meeting. Work clothes are becoming more casual and demands for specialist fibres is growing, with a savvy consumer with money to spend. Comfort, performance and good design are essential to this trend, making sports clothes integrate into a working wardrobe.

Fabric trends

In terms of colour and fabric trends, there were the usual forecasts for colours in lingerie, split between the more romantic and the more adventurous for 2019. Soft nude and pastel tones, including soft blues, peaches, with a chalky finish, lace both as trim and a main fabric is important. Sofileta is producing a nanofabric of 60gsm only beaten by Willy Herman’s fabric weighing in at a feather light 50gsm.

Bishchoff led the way in 3D fabrics, fishnets adorned with notions, bobbles, and ribbons, stand out lace florals and embroidery. Ribbons, zippers and other notions were also very expressionistic and much more creative than before. Elastic trips seem to be centre of attraction. Elastic knitters made headlines with lacy edging, intricate visual designs that put elastic centre stage, a big leap forward for the elastic trim industry.

 
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