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The recent article ‘Style: The Death of Pak Fashion?’ highlights the grim situation of the Pakistani fashion industry. The author, a seasoned fashion journalist, laments the decline of creativity and innovation, replaced by a glut of celebrities, uninspired bridal bling, and a focus on commercial viability over artistic expression.
The rise and fall of Pakistani fashion
Pakistani fashion has witnessed a remarkable journey. It first stepped onto the global stage with its intricate hand embroidery and vibrant colors, captivating audiences with its unique blend of traditional craftsmanship and modern silhouettes. Designers like Deepak Perwani and HSY became household names, showcasing their collections at international fashion weeks and dressing global celebrities.
However, the article argues this golden age is fading. The author observes a decline in the quality of fashion shows, with even established designers producing "generic mish-mash." This raises a critical question: What factors have contributed to this perceived decline?
Reasons for the decline
Commercialization: The article highlights the shift towards commercially viable designs, often at the expense of creativity. This is reflected in the dominance of bridal wear, a lucrative segment that often prioritizes opulence over innovation. Data from a 2022 report by Fashion Council Pakistan indicated that bridal wear accounted for 60 per cent of the industry's revenue, highlighting its commercial importance.
Celebrification: The obsession with celebrity endorsements has overshadowed the focus on design. The author criticizes the ‘unabashed celebrification’ where "profits get generated when a popular 'it' celebrity is seen wearing clothes by a design house. Even when the clothes are downright ugly,” this over-reliance on star power can stifle creativity and originality.
Lack of curation: The absence of strong curatorial voices and platforms for showcasing cutting-edge design is another contributing factor. The author points to the decline of fashion weeks and the lack of mentorship for emerging designers.
International popularity endures
Despite these challenges, Pakistani fashion continues to enjoy significant international popularity. Pakistani designers are increasingly gaining recognition on global platforms. For example, Mohsin Naveed Ranjha showcased his collection at Milan Fashion Week 2023, receiving critical acclaim for his modern take on traditional silhouettes. Similarly, brand Khaadi has successfully blended traditional craftsmanship with contemporary designs, creating a global following. Their focus on handloom fabrics and ethical production practices resonates with conscious consumers worldwide.
E-commerce platforms like Etsy and Shopify have opened up new avenues for Pakistani designers to reach international customers. A 2023 study by Statista revealed a 30 per cent increase in online sales of Pakistani fashion products to international markets compared to the previous year. The Pakistani diaspora too plays a crucial role in promoting local fashion abroad. As fashion blogger Aamna Haider Isani notes, "The diaspora acts as a bridge, carrying the trends and aesthetics of Pakistani fashion to their adopted countries, creating a ripple effect that influences global fashion." For example, known for its luxurious and intricately embellished designs, Élan has captured the attention of international celebrities and fashion influencers. Their recent collaboration with Indian couturier Manish Malhotra further solidified their global presence.
The way forward
The challenges facing Pakistani fashion are undeniable. However, the industry's inherent strengths – its rich heritage, skilled artisans, and growing international recognition – provide a strong foundation for a resurgence. To move forward, the industry needs to first reclaim its creative identity. Designers need to prioritize innovation and originality, moving beyond commercially safe choices. As designer Shehla Chatoor points out, "Pakistani fashion needs to rediscover its soul. We need to go back to our roots, to the craftsmanship and artistry that defines us." Also, leveraging digital platforms for showcasing talent and reaching global audiences is crucial. Initiatives like the Digital Fashion Week Karachi are steps in the right direction. And establishing mentorship programs and curatorial platforms can nurture emerging talent and provide guidance.
The future of Pakistani fashion hinges on its ability to adapt, innovate, and reclaim its narrative. While the challenges are real, the potential for growth and global recognition remains immense. By embracing its strengths and addressing its weaknesses, Pakistani fashion can once again soar to new heights.
The apparel export industry expressed gratitude to Prime Minister Narendra Modi for his encouraging speech at Bharat Tex 2025. Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) Chairman, Sudhir Sekhri, pledged the industry's commitment to realizing the PM's vision of a developed India by 2027.
Sekhri emphasized the industry's focus on empowering MSMEs, which comprise 80 per cent of garment exporters, and women, who make up 80 per cent of the workforce. He lauded the government's support for this employment-intensive sector. The industry, he stated, is already actively embracing sustainable practices and waste management, exceeding many developed nations in this area.
Bharat Tex, within two years, has become a vital platform for textile stakeholders, fostering collaborations across the value chain, Sekhri noted. He highlighted the Union Budget 2025-26's focus on MSME exports through government-guaranteed credit support and the mission to address tariff and non-tariff barriers, simplifying business operations.
Sekhri acknowledged the PM's call for skill development, citing his interaction with women workers who have achieved socio-economic mobility through training. He also welcomed the PM's appeal to banks for priority lending to MSMEs for capacity expansion.
The industry, Sekhri affirmed, will heed the PM's suggestion to partner with institutions like IITs to promote innovation and startups. The apparel sector is committed to working towards the PM's vision, driving growth and empowerment.
Isko and Gant have teamed up to launch a sustainable denim collection, available online and in select stores. This collaboration blends classic style with innovation, offering pieces that are both fashion-forward and eco-friendly. The collection is crafted from recycled materials and features Isko's advanced fabric technologies, ensuring durability, quality, and conscious design.
Both brands emphasize responsible fashion, utilizing recycled materials and patented technologies to produce high-quality, long-lasting products. "This collaboration is rooted in our shared commitment to innovation and sustainability," said Mirela Slowik, Isko’s Global Product Marketing Manager. "Together, we are proving that fashion and responsibility can coexist, upholding excellence in both design and environmental impact."
By focusing on sustainability without compromising on style, the partnership aims to set a new standard for denim, demonstrating that responsible fashion can also be cutting-edge and durable. This collection is a testament to the power of collaboration in shaping the future of fashion, with a focus on quality, sustainability, and style.
Oerlikon Riri’s SS26 collection redefines high-end accessories with two distinct yet harmonious themes: Athletic Elegance and Neoclassical Luxury. This season, the luxury zipper and button brand combines performance with refinement, embracing innovation and sustainability.
The collection marks a shift towards stainless steel components, with metal parts featuring at least 50 per cent recycled stainless steel. Oerlikon Riri also advances eco-conscious design with Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) coatings, ensuring durability and reduced environmental impact.
Blurring the lines between luxury and sportswear, this theme features bold, high-performance accessories inspired by elite sports. Aquamarine and red dominate the palette, while stainless steel pullers and PVD-coated buttons enhance durability.
Notable highlights include Metamorph, a cutting-edge button range with an asymmetrical synthetic ring, offering firm resistance while opening and effortless closure. The Zero button, long admired for its sleek design, debuts in a refined slim version.
Drawing from classical Greek aesthetics, this theme features cream, beige, and soft brown tones with opulent gold and palladium finishes. Accessories include Greek column-inspired zippers, diamond embellishments, and natural stones.
Advancing precision engineering, Oerlikon Riri utilizes Metal Injection Molding (MIM) for intricately crafted, durable components. With stainless steel zippers and expanded PVD applications, the brand continues its commitment to sustainable luxury.
US cotton producers plan to plant 9.6 million acres in 2025, a 14.5 per cent decline from 2024, according to the National Cotton Council’s (NCC) 44th Annual Early Season Planting Intentions Survey.
Of the total, 9.4 million acres are dedicated to upland cotton, while extra-long staple (ELS) cotton acreage is expected to drop 23.5 per cent to 158,000 acres. These reductions reflect lower cotton prices compared to other crops like corn and soybeans, influencing farmers' planting decisions.
The survey, which surveyed producers across the 17-state Cotton Belt, also forecast a harvested area of 7.8 million acres and a crop size of 13.9 million bales. The reduction in acreage is attributed to shifts in crop rotation and growing interest in corn, soybeans, and peanuts, particularly in the Southeast and Mid-South regions. For example, Georgia is expected to experience its lowest cotton acreage since 1993, with a 21.5 per cent decrease.
In the West, upland cotton acreage is set to decline by 12.3 per cent, with California seeing a significant 40.8 per cent drop. However, New Mexico expects a slight increase in cotton planting. The survey highlights that weather conditions, market trends, and input costs will continue to impact final planting decisions throughout the season.
These planting intentions offer a snapshot of current market conditions but may change as farmers respond to shifting economic and environmental factors.
In the fourth quarter of 2024, Italy's textile machinery industry experienced a 19 per cent decline in order intake, according to the ACIMIT index, compiled by the Economics Department of the Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers (ACIMIT). The index reached 49.6 points (base 2021=100), reflecting a contrast between a modest increase in domestic orders and a significant drop in foreign demand.
Domestic orders saw a slight growth of 6 per cent, while international orders fell sharply by 22 per cent. In absolute terms, the foreign market index stood at 48.3 points, and Italy's index reached 58.5 points. Despite the downturn, the order backlog was sufficient to cover 3.3 months of production.
For the full year of 2024, the index showed a 16 per cent decrease compared to 2023, with a 10 per cent rise in domestic orders, but a notable 19 per cent drop in international orders. The decline in orders is attributed to ongoing weakness in global demand, particularly in key markets outside of China.
Marco Salvade, President of ACIMIT, noted that the negative trend in machinery demand is most pronounced abroad, with exports to major markets such as Turkey, India, the United States, and Germany all declining. This trend, confirmed by data through October 2024, underscores the challenging global conditions facing Italy's textile machinery sector.
The Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has launched the ‘GFA Mapping of Global Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for Textiles,’ a dynamic resource documenting the growing number of textile EPR schemes worldwide. Providing a practical reference for industry stakeholders, policymakers, and sustainability advocates, this tool helps them understand the complexities of these schemes and their impact.
GFA advocates for global harmonization of EPR schemes to simplify compliance, drive innovation, and support effective waste management. The mapping resource offers a comprehensive overview of existing and upcoming compulsory and voluntary schemes across continents, focusing on textiles and apparel. It details their status, obligated producers, products covered, known Producer Responsibility Organizations (PROs), and other key elements.
The publication highlights the EU's leading role in legislating textile EPR, with other regions like Australia, Chile, and some US states following suit. It also addresses the opportunities and challenges in emerging markets such as India and China.
A key upcoming milestone of this tool includes the ongoing revision of the Waste Framework Directive (WFD), which targets textiles and food waste. Expected to be finalized by March 2025 and implemented in 2027, the revised WFD aims to introduce compulsory and minimum harmonized EPR schemes in the EU.
The fashion industry's transition to circularity requires urgent action, and EPR schemes are crucial by making producers responsible for their products' lifecycle. This mapping resource equips stakeholders, from policymakers to sustainability advocates, with the knowledge to navigate the evolving EPR landscape.
As of January 1, 2025, EU member states are obligated to separately collect textiles for reuse, preparation for reuse, and recycling. The final WFD version will determine if there will be a unified, well-functioning EU-wide EPR system or a fragmented approach with varying rules, potentially increasing compliance costs for businesses.
This dynamic resource will be updated with input from industry stakeholders. GFA encourages feedback and contributions to ensure the mapping remains accurate and comprehensive.
Organized by the Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, in Bharat Mandampam alongside Bharat Tex 2025, the fashion event, ‘Breathing Threads’ demonstrated the power of Indian heritage textiles on a global stage.
The event was organized at an amphitheatre in with Vaishali S Couture, Vaishali S Threadstories and in coordination with Handloom Export Promotion Council. It was a great success and hugely appreciated by buyers from overseas countries such as Australia, UK, France, Germany, Italy, Russia, Srilanka, Bangladesh, Kuwait, Chile, etc. Stakeholders from the Indian textile industry also appreciated gther show.
A 24-year old brand, Vaishali S Couture is dedicated to reviving old and dying hand weaving techniques and offers them to the top global luxury brands.
The show featured fabrics woven in the villages from five different states viz. West Bengal, Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, Karnataka and Rajasthan. The weaves were showcased by 20 models in 30 looks, draped in seven different weaving techniques including Chanderi, Maheshwari, Jamdani, Khun, Benarasi, Kota Doria, Murshidabad. Each of these weaves was creatively embellished with unique textures and cording.
The show highlighted the importance of skill and hard work alongwith with creativity in making a hand-woven fabric.
Despite a 16.22 per cent decline in textile imports by the EU, Tunisia's textile exports increased from €1.96692 billion in 2019 to €2.35840 billion in 2023, according to official data.
From January-December 2023, Tunisia's clothing exports grew by 6.8 per cent to 8,178.68 million Tunisian dinars, while textile exports rose by 3.07 per cent. Overall textile and clothing exports by Tunisia grew by 5.61 per cent to nearly 9.7 billion dinars, with a 12.5-point improvement in the trade balance. Along with the support from public authorities and companies, the Tunisian textile industry is well-positioned for future challenges.
Tunisia has focused on product quality to differentiate itself in the European market. While competitors have lowered prices, Tunisian companies have maintained margins by offering high-end products. Tunisia ranks 10th globally as a clothing supplier to the EU, surpassing major players like the UK and Egypt.
An ambitious roadmap aiming to recycle 90 per cent of wastewater and reduce the carbon footprint by 30 per cent by 2030 is expected to further enhance Tunisia's competitiveness.
The Export Promotion Center (CEPEX) plans to organize professional and partnership meetings for the textile, clothing, leather and footwear sectors on April 21-22, 2025, in Algiers, during the 8th TexStyle Expo. This event will provide Tunisian companies with opportunities to establish business relationships and partnerships with economic operators in the clothing and footwear sectors.
The event will target sectors including materials and accessories for clothing, solutions for the textile and clothing industry, and leather, soles, and footwear components. This mission will be eligible for the Export Promotion Fund (FOPRODEX), a financial support mechanism for Tunisian exporters, notes CEPEX.
Parent company of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, PVH has been added to the ‘unreliable entities’ list of China's Ministry of Commerce (MOFCOM). According to MOFCOM, PVH undermines market rules and violates Chinese laws.
This designation could potentially shut down all of PVH's business operations in China, although no specific sanctions have been announced yet, and PVH has a timeframe to present its defense.
PVH is the first fashion brand to receive this designation, typically reserved for companies in defense and biotech, such as Illumina, which was also recently added to the list. This move comes amidst escalating US-China trade tensions and follows the Trump administration's 10 per cent tariff on Chinese imports. MOFCOM has been investigating PVH's China operations since September.
In its 20 years of operating in China and serving customers, PVH has always maintained strict compliance with all relevant laws and regulations and operates in line with established industry standards and practices, a company’s spokersperson. It will continue engaging with relevant authorities and looks forward to a positive resolution, he adds.
The MOFCOM decision appears to stem from PVH's ban on the use of cotton from China's Xinjiang region, aligning with US government’s import restrictions imposed in 2020. Experts suggest that China is using PVH as an example in the ongoing trade dispute.
While Stefan Larsson, CEO, PVH emphasizes on the importance of the Chinese market for retail growth (the Asia-Pacific region accounted for approximately 20 per cent of PVH’s $9.2 billion in revenue in fiscal year 2023), the greater threat may be to PVH’s manufacturing capabilities.
The company operates 128 factories in China, producing approximately 20 per cent of its goods. Shifting manufacturing could be disruptive, impacting quality and production processes, according to analysts. PVH also has manufacturing facilities in Vietnam, Turkey, and other countries.
Experts speculate, PVH was targeted due to its size—large enough to make a statement, but not as large as other US brands like Nike or Gap, which also have policies against using Xinjiang cotton. Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein have a significant retail presence in the Asia-Pacific region, with thousands of stores.
Neil Saunders, GlobalData, opines, China is using PVH as an example to say, look, if tariffs go ahead, if other restrictions are put in place on China, we can make life difficult for US companies in the country.
