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Global textile and apparel industry's most anticipated event, Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition 2025 officially opened at the National Exhibition and Convention Center. To run until September 4, 2025, the three-day trade fair serves as dynamic hub for innovation, a barometer of future trends, and a crucial meeting point for industry leaders from around the world.
This year’s event focuses on two important pillars: sustainability and digital innovation. The fair's dedicated Econogy Hub is a testament to this commitment, showcasing cutting-edge, eco-friendly products and processes. Exhibitors in this zone are highlighting everything from recycled fabrics and organic cotton to low-impact dyeing techniques, providing solutions for brands seeking to meet growing consumer demand for greener products.
The Digital Solutions Zone offers a glimpse into the future, featuring technologies like AI-driven design software, 3D body scanning, and automated manufacturing systems that promise to revolutionize the supply chain.
Navigating the global supply chain
As an important sourcing platform, Intertextile Shanghai proves as a vital link in the global textile value chain. The event offers an unparalleled opportunity to international buyers and brands to connect directly with suppliers and manufacturers from across Asia and beyond. The diverse product zones cater to every need, from high-end luxury to everyday essentials. In SalonEurope, European exhibitors are presenting their latest collections of premium fabrics. Meanwhile, the Beyond Denim zone is showcasing innovative denim washes, sustainable materials, and new fabric constructions.
The Functional Lab is drawing a lot of attention, with its display of performance fabrics designed for sportswear and activewear. Attendees can also find every accessory imaginable in the sprawling Accessories Vision section, which is filled with everything from zippers and buttons to decorative trimmings.
Knowledge and networking
A major attraction of this event is the fair's robust program of educational events and networking opportunities. A series of seminars, workshops, and forums are delving into topics that will shape the industry for years to come. Experts are leading discussions on next season's trends for A/W 2026/27, providing valuable insights for designers and buyers.
Other sessions are exploring the transformative role of AI in textile design, new strategies for sustainable practices and circularity, and key market trends. These events provide a crucial platform for knowledge exchange and strategic planning, helping attendees stay ahead in a fast-paced market.
Being held concurrently with Yarn Expo Autumn and CHIC, Intertextile Shanghai –Autumn Edition creates a one-stop-shop for the entire textile and apparel industry. This synergistic approach allows buyers to source everything from raw materials to finished garments under one roof, strengthening the fair's status as a comprehensive and indispensable industry event.
London-based designer Patrick McDowell has refreshed its brand identity with a new wordmark and monogram. This refreshed look is meant to reflect the brand's evolution and prepare it for future growth.
The designer is scheduled to host a show on September 20 during London Fashion Week, a platform he has used to build his brand by championing responsible design and luxury.
Developed in partnership with the creative consultancy Duncan Fenech, the new wordmark and monogram is inspired by Marie Antoinette, the last Queen of France. The consultancy says her ornamental influence was transformed into a powerful symbol of renewal, capturing the brand's ability to turn classical inspiration into a modern, relevant aesthetic. The new monogram is described as both fluid and feminine, blending softness with precision while also referencing traditional craftsmanship.
Luke Fenech, Creative Director, Duncan Fenech, says, the new identity celebrates the brand’s values of circularity and British craftsmanship.
A global leader in developing fiber and technology solutions for the apparel and personal care industries, The Lycra Company made a comeback to Intertextile Shanghai with an exclusive global preview of its latest innovations in denim fabrics.
For the first time, the company's booth features an open-concept co-creation space designed to foster collaboration. Four key industry partners join The Lycra Company in this shared exhibit space, located in Hall 4.1 (Booth E56). This area is part of a larger 788-sq-m pavilion, which also includes 18 co-exhibitors. The impactful and visually striking design brings the new All In Lycra brand positioning to life, creating an immersive experience for visitors.
This new positioning highlights the company's commitment to helping partners stay competitive with advanced fiber solutions that enhance their products' capabilities.
Visitors to The Lycra Company’s booth can explore the company innovations like the Lycra Vintage FX denim technology, bio derived Lycra Ecomade fiber, Lycra FitSense denim technology, Coolmax EcoMade Fiber and Thermolite Ecomade fiber.
The four partners in the open pavilion showcase Lycra fiber across the value chain—from yarn to finished garment.
A leading global fiber and technology solutions provider to the apparel and personal care industries, the Lycra Company is committed to offering sustainable products using renewable, pre-, and post-consumer recycled ingredients that reduce waste and help set the stage for circularity. Headquartered in Wilmington, Delaware, United States, it owns the Lycra, Lycra Hyfit, Lycra T400, Coolmax, Thermolite, Elaspan, Supplex and Tactel brands.
Following the recent 50 per cent tariffs imposed by the US on Indian goods, several Indian companies are strategically shifting their operations to Africa to maintain access to the American market. This move is a direct response to the punitive tariffs, which were a consequence of India's continued purchases of Russian oil.
Companies like apparel manufacturer Gokaldas Exports and premium garments maker Raymond Lifestyle are among those looking to expand production in African countries, where US tariffs can be as low as 10 per cent. The tariffs have hit labor-intensive sectors such as jewelry and apparel the hardest, with a recent Bloomberg Economics note suggesting that exports of some goods could drop by as much as 90 per cent.
The tariffs are expected to more than halve India's overall exports to its largest market, the US/ In 2023, India exported over $20 billion in textile products, jewelry, and diamonds to the U.S.
Sivaramakrishnan Ganapathi, Managing Director, Gokaldas Exports, confirms, his company plans to continue expanding its presence in Africa to offset the high tariffs. Gokaldas already operates four factories in Kenya and one in Ethiopia, both of which face a 10 per cent US tariff. Similarly, Amit Agarwal, CFO, Raymond Lifestyle, notes, the company is in talks with its American clients to increase shipments from its Ethiopian plant.
African nations have emerged as a viable alternative for Indian companies due to favorable business environments. Countries like Ethiopia, Nigeria, Botswana, and Morocco are offering various incentives, including tax holidays, customs duty exemptions, and value-added tax (VAT) exemptions, to attract foreign investment.
In a bid to address a long-standing issue threatening the man-made fiber (MMF) textile industry, the Northern India Textile Mills Association (NITMA) has urged the Union Finance Minister and the GST Council to ensure a uniform GST rate of 5 per cent is levied on both Polyester Staple Fiber (PSF) and Polyester Staple Yarn (PSY), thus aligning them with the tax on fabrics and garments.
This change would eliminate the inverted duty anomaly, free up capital, and make the spinning industry financially sustainable, states Siddharth Khanna, President, NITMA.
A failure to act on this could lead to widespread factory shutdowns and job losses across the country, Khanna adds. He highlights, while the cotton value chain enjoys a uniform 5 per cent GST on all its products, the MMF sector faces disparate tax rates that create a significant imbalance. The current GST framework taxes PSF at 18 per cent, polyester spun yarn PSY)at 12 per cent, and MMF fabrics and garments at just 5 per cent. This misalignment means manufacturers get taxed more for their raw materials than for their finished products, leading to a financial logjam.
This structure is an existential threat to the industry, emphasizes Khanna. The high tax on raw materials like PSF forces companies to block a significant portion of their annual turnover in GST refunds, leading to high interest costs on locked capital and complex refund procedures. The tax on new capital investments is also hiked by 18 per cent, making it expensive to modernize. Moreover, imported yarns, which don't face this domestic tax structure, gain an unfair advantage, directly undermining the ‘Make in India’ initiative.
Amazon finds itself at the center of a new wave of legal and regulatory scrutiny in Europe, as two major actions challenge its long-standing price-parity policies. In the UK, a consumer group is spearheading a massive class action lawsuit on behalf of millions of customers, while in Germany, antitrust regulators are probing the company's algorithm-driven pricing mechanisms. These cases highlight a shift from past regulatory battles over explicit clauses to a new front focused on the subtle, yet powerful, influence of algorithmic control.
UK class action seeks compensation
The Association of Consumer Support Organisations (ASCO) has initiated a collective opt-out class action against Amazon in the UK, alleging that the e-commerce giant's policies forced consumers to pay inflated prices. The lawsuit, filed with the Competition Appeal Tribunal, represents over 45 million customers who purchased from third-party sellers on the platform between August 2019 and August 2025.
ASCO argues that while Amazon formally removed its explicit price-parity clauses, it has continued to enforce price alignment through other means, such as its ‘Fair Pricing Policy’ and its dominant Buy Box algorithm. This, according to the group, restricts sellers' ability to offer lower prices on competing platforms and ultimately harms consumers.
In a statement, Amazon responded that the claim is "without merit," citing an independent analysis by Profitero that found Amazon to be the lowest-priced online retailer in the UK for the fifth consecutive year.
German regulators probe algorithmic controls
Simultaneously, Germany’s Federal Cartel Office (Bundeskartellamt) has raised its own concerns about Amazon’s pricing mechanisms. The regulator is investigating whether the company's system, which highlights competitively priced listings and suppresses those it deems "overpriced," violates competition laws.
The investigation focuses on how Amazon's algorithms can first, suppress visibility. Listings flagged as ‘uncompetitive’ may be demoted in search results, excluded from advertising, and lose the coveted Buy Box the white box on a product page where a customer can add an item to their cart. Also under the radar is pricing pressure. Sellers who don't comply with Amazon’s dynamically calculated price caps risk being removed from the marketplace altogether, effectively forcing them to align their prices. This marks a new phase of regulatory enforcement, moving beyond the simple presence of a price-parity clause to scrutinizing the opaque, complex code that governs the marketplace.
The historical shift from clauses to code
The current legal challenges are the culmination of a decade-long battle over Amazon's pricing practices.
Table: Amazon’s policies under scrutiny
|
Jurisdiction |
Explicit parity clause |
Algorithmic enforcement |
|
Europe (EU) |
Removed in 2013 following antitrust probes. |
Under review by German Federal Cartel Office and EU's Digital Markets Act. |
|
US |
Removed in 2019 amid mounting antitrust scrutiny. |
Subject of lawsuits from D.C. Attorney General and class action plaintiffs. |
After the official removal of its clauses, Amazon has faced accusations of replacing them with functionally equivalent policies. Attorneys general in Washington, D.C. have argued in court filings that policies like the Fair Pricing Policy and the Buy Box algorithm are designed to maintain price alignment and prevent sellers from undercutting Amazon on other platforms.
Experts say that ending price-parity clauses can lead to tangible benefits for consumers. A 2021 study by Yu Song of the University of Michigan analyzed the impact of Amazon's 2019 decision to drop its price-parity clauses in the US.
Table: Study findings
|
Outcome |
Impact |
|
Prices on Amazon |
Decreased, especially for products sold directly by Amazon. |
|
Prices on eBay |
Also decreased, showing increased competition between platforms. |
|
Impact on Sellers |
Greater price flexibility, leading to lower prices on all platforms. |
The findings of the study align with economic theory, showcasing that when a dominant platform loses its ability to enforce pricing across the web it fosters greater platform competition and results in lower prices for consumers.
Legal and regulatory precedents
The outcome of the UK and German cases will set important precedents. The UK class action, if it proceeds, could result in significant financial compensation for millions of consumers. In the US, similar litigation from the D.C. Attorney General's office is ongoing and could further define the legal boundaries for platforms. The European Union's Digital Markets Act (DMA), which came into force in March 2024, is also a key factor. The DMA designates Amazon as a ‘gatekeeper’ and prohibits unfair practices, including those that might enforce a de facto price-parity. This gives regulators powerful new tools to examine and intervene in the very algorithms that govern Amazon’s marketplace.
As regulators and courts increasingly focus on the behavior of a platform's algorithms, the debate over price-parity is no longer about a simple contract clause but about the fundamental fairness and transparency of digital marketplaces.
The value of the global market for women's apparel is projected to grow at a 4 per cent CAGR to reach $1.28 trillion by 2033. This growth is being driven by a number of factors, including a growing global female population, rising awareness of women's rights, and an increased focus on personal style and well-being. The industry is also being reshaped by the rapid rise of e-commerce and a growing demand for sustainability.
Technological advancements are playing a crucial role in this transformation. The development of eco-friendly and recycled fabrics is a key trend, with brands like the Indian athleisure company aastey introducing sustainable blends. Additionally, tech innovations are enhancing the online shopping experience. Virtual try-on technologies and AI-driven personalization are helping consumers visualize how clothes will fit, which boosts satisfaction and reduces returns. The use of data is also transforming product development, as seen with ThirdLove, a company that used 600 billion data points to create better-fitting bras.
Demand for women's apparel is also being influenced by key social and economic trends. The global female population is projected to reach parity with males by 2050, expanding the consumer base. The rise of urbanization and increasing disposable incomes in emerging economies are also fueling growth. A growing number of working women is boosting sales of formalwear and activewear. This has also created new opportunities for brands that are focusing on size inclusivity and sustainable fashion to cater to a diverse consumer base.
From a market segmentation perspective, tops, shirts, t-shirts remain the top investment segment due to their versatility and broad appeal. The online sales channel is projected to grow at a 5 per cent CAGR, driven by the shopping habits of Millennials and Gen Z. The 18-35 age demographic is a key target market, as younger consumers influence trends through social media. Geographically, key countries like India, the United States, and China are leading the market, each with unique drivers. For example, the US market is being shaped by trends in inclusivity and casualization, while China is benefiting from its growing middle class and increasing demand for premium and sustainable clothing.
Indonesia is actively engaging in the global fashion scene by sending designers and industry representatives to two major international events: the BRICS+ Fashion Summit in Moscow and Front Row Paris.
Held annually in Moscow, Russia, the BRICS+ Fashion Summit brings together industry leaders and creatives from over 60 countries to discuss the future of the global fashion industry. The key themes revolve around decentralization and democratization, with a focus on showcasing emerging fashion markets and fostering cross-cultural collaboration.
The summit provides Indonesian designers with a platform to discuss industry challenges, promote their work, and forge new partnerships. Ali Charisma, President, Indonesian Fashion Chamber (IFC), has previously been a delegate at this event.
Scheduled to be held on September 6, 2025 in Les Salons Hoche, Paris, Front Row Paris is a flagship initiative by IFC to promote Indonesian traditional fabrics and textiles, known as wastra, to the European market. It aims to position Indonesia as a significant player in the global fashion industry.
Themed ‘Wastra Beyond Borders,’ the 2025 event features seven Indonesian designers and fashion brands. The event also coincides with the 75th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Indonesia and France, serving as a platform to strengthen cultural diplomacy through the creative economy. The Indonesian Embassy in Paris supports the event, underscoring its importance in showcasing the country's unique creative and cultural heritage.
The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) is advocating for a uniform 5 per cent Goods and Services Tax (GST) rate across the entire Indian textile value chain. This proposal aims to simplify the current multi-tiered tax structure, which has created complications and a problem known as the inverted duty structure.
The current GST framework for textiles is complex and varies based on the type of product and its price. Garments priced below Rs 1,000 are taxed at 5 per cent while garments priced above Rs 1,000 are taxed at 12 per cent.
Raw materials like Purified Terephthalic Acid (PTA) and Monoethylene Glycol (MEG) are taxed at 18 per cent, MMF filament and spun yarn are taxed at 12 per cent. Fabrics and garments are taxed at 5 per cent or 12 per cent, depending on the price.
This differential taxation creates an inverted duty structure, where the tax on raw materials (eg: MMF) is higher than the tax on the finished product (garments). This makes it difficult for manufacturers to claim a full Input Tax Credit (ITC), leading to a build-up of tax liability and an increase in working capital costs.
Supporting a uniform 5 per cent GST, CMAI and other industry bodies like the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), argue, a lower tax rate would make textiles and garments more affordable for consumers. They believe, a single tax rate would eliminate the confusion and compliance complexities caused by multiple slabs and price thresholds. This would also reduce the risk of under-invoicing and the informal ‘grey; market. A uniform 5 per cent GST would also support higher-priced traditional wear, handloom, and embroidered garments that are currently penalized by the 12 per cent GST rate. Besides, a lower, uniform GST would stimulate demand and help the industry grow. Additionally, it would help attract investments and create more jobs.
The GST Council is currently considering a major restructuring of the tax slabs, and CMAI is hopeful that the textile industry will be placed in the lowest 5 per cent slab to address these long-standing issues.
Formerly known as the Boohoo Group, Debenhams Group registered 3 per cent growth in adjusted EBITDA to £41.6 million for the fiscal year that ended on February 28, 2025. This was a result of the major transformation undergone by the company under new leadership.
Having his position as the CEO in November 2024, Dan Finley implemented aggressive cost-cutting measures, including £50 million in annualized headcount savings. This resulted in the achieving the strong performance for its Debenhams brand, which saw GMV (Gross Merchandise Value) grow by 34 per cent to £654 million and delivered £25 million in adjusted EBITDA.
The group also significantly reduced expenses by cutting inventory holdings by over 50 per cent and decreasing capital expenditure by more than 50 per cent. As a result, net debt reduced to £78.2 million at the end of the year, down from £143.1 million at the half-year mark and £95 million in fiscal year 2024.
In August 2025, the company secured a new three-year finance facility of up to £175 million, replacing its previous facility more than a year before it was due to expire.
While group revenue declined by 12 per cent to £790.3 million, this reflects the growing importance of the marketplace model, where only commission income is recognized instead of the full transaction value. The gross margin also saw a slight decrease of 50 basis points to 52.6 per cent.
The company is exploring the potential sale of PrettyLittleThing (PLT) and is evaluating options for its US and Burnley distribution sites to align with its new ‘stock-lite’ strategy.
The company anticipates that its adjusted EBITDA for continuing operations in H1, FY26 will surpass the same period in FY25. The transformation strategy is centered on creating the right operating model, expanding the Debenhams brand, and shifting toward fashion-led marketplaces.
