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CENTRESTAGE, Hong Kong’s premier fashion event organized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) and sponsored by the Cultural and Creative Industries Development Agency (CCIDA), will unfold from September 4 to 7 at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. For the first time, the event will be open to both industry buyers and the public for all four days.
This year's highlights include the "Home Coming" grand opening show at the Hong Kong Palace Museum on September 3, featuring Hong Kong-born designer Robert Wun, a star at Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week. His collection will also be showcased at CENTRESTAGE, where he will host a masterclass on September 5.
CENTRESTAGE 2024 will feature over 250 brands from 17 countries, including Roksanda, a British label favored by celebrities like Lady Gaga and Kate Middleton. RoksandaIlincic herself will attend, engaging with attendees in a special session.
The event introduces new zones focusing on Athleisure and Circular Fashion, reflecting current trends. The runway will also feature a cinematic collaboration for the Fashion Hong Kong Runway Show, directed by Steve Chan, transforming traditional presentations into storytelling experiences.
Key industry players, including the Hong Kong Fashion Designers Association and Redress, will participate, alongside global institutions like the Singapore Fashion Council and Japan's Ueda College of Fashion.
Seminars will explore future industry developments, with a focus on innovation and sustainability. The Redress Design Award 2024 finals and the Young Knitwear Designer’s Contest will take place, leading to the grand finale: the Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers' Contest (YDC) on September 7.
With this robust lineup, CENTRESTAGE continues to cement Hong Kong's position as a global fashion hub, showcasing the best of east-meets-west creativity.
The Social & Labor Convergence Program (SLCP) has unveiled new Guidance on the EU Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD). This Guidance highlights how SLCP’s Converged Assessment Framework (CAF) aligns with CSRD requirements and identifies areas beyond its scope.
As the CSRD introduces mandatory sustainability reporting, it becomes crucial for companies inside and outside the EU to enhance transparency and address human rights risks in global supply chains. SLCP’s CAF, designed to meet international labor standards and national laws, offers reliable data to aid in human rights disclosures.
SLCP’s Guidance clarifies how its data supports CSRD compliance, detailing the CAF’s role in meeting specific disclosure requirements and its limitations. It is an essential resource for brands preparing for reporting obligations and for manufacturers navigating CSRD complexities.
Joe Wozniak, Head of Trade for Sustainable Development at the International Trade Centre, underscores the significance of the new Guidance. He notes that a clear and transparent explanation of SLCP’s role in European Sustainability Reporting Standards is crucial, particularly for smaller companies. He points out that effective disclosures rely on credible data, which improves transparency about the impact of supply chains on workers—something that SLCP’s Guidance supports.
This new resource is set to assist stakeholders in understanding and implementing the CSRD effectively.
The global textile industry continues to grapple with a challenging business environment, according to the International Textile Manufacturers Federation's (ITMF) Global Textile Industry Survey (GTIS) conducted in July 2024. While the current business situation remains bleak due to persistently low order intake, there is cautious optimism for improvement in the next six months.
Order intake showed a slight improvement in July, reaching -20 percentage points (pp) compared to -24pp in May and a significant recovery from the -50pp recorded in November 2023. Despite this, capacity utilization dropped slightly to 68 per cent, a level last seen at the end of 2023.
Weak demand remains the primary concern for 66 per cent of survey participants. Geopolitical tensions have emerged as the second major concern, with 40 per cent citing it as a significant issue, reflecting the impact of global conflicts on consumer and investor sentiment. High costs, particularly in logistics (24 per cent), raw materials (27 per cent), and energy (22 per cent), continue to strain the industry.
Notably, order cancellations are no longer a significant problem, and inventory levels across the textile value chain are stable. Retailers and brands, who had struggled with excess inventory since late 2022, have now reduced stock to manageable levels, potentially leading to increased orders in the coming months.
Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals, is showcasing its latest "Planet Conscious+" innovations at Febratex 2024 in Brazil, aiming to empower the region's textile mills and brands in driving sustainability.
Leonardo Harsch, VP of South and Central Americas at Archroma Textile Effects, emphasized Brazil's leadership in sustainability due to its integrated textile supply chain. He noted that Archroma's solutions tackle challenges in water and energy use, chemical management, and waste reduction while enhancing global competitiveness.
At Febratex 2024, Archroma is spotlighting its Super Systems+, an end-to-end suite combining fiber-specific processing solutions and intelligent effects. These systems include sustainable wet processing techniques, durable colors, and eco-friendly chemistries. Highlighted technologies include Denim Halo, aniline-free Denisol Pure Indigo 30 LIQ (stands for liquid), and EarthColors, which utilizes bio-waste to create dyes.
Also featured are Ultratex STS-U, a hydrophilic silicone softener for cotton blends; Siligen EH1, a biomass-based softener with moisture management; Avitera Se Generation Next, offering resource-saving dyeing solutions; and Eriopon E3-Save, an all-in-one auxiliary for cellulosic fibers.
Febratex, one of the Americas' largest textile trade fairs, takes place in Blumenau from August 20-23, 2024.
Ganni, the fashion and lifestyle brand, has announced a new partnership with non-profit organization Canopy to eliminate the use of materials sourced from climate-critical forests in its textiles and paper packaging. The brand’s commitment aligns with Canopy’s CanopyStyle and Pack4Good initiatives, which aim to protect ancient and endangered forests by promoting low-carbon, circular alternatives.
Each year, over 3.4 billion trees are cut down for paper packaging and fabrics like viscose. As part of this partnership, Ganni will transition away from these sources, focusing on Next Generation materials, such as textiles made from recycled fabrics and packaging from agricultural residues.
Ganni joins over 550 brands with CanopyStyle policies and 444 brands committed to Pack4Good, collectively representing more than $1 trillion in market value. This move supports Ganni’s broader sustainability goals as a B-Corp-certified company, aiming for a 50 per cent reduction in absolute carbon emissions by 2027, using 2021 as a baseline.
Lauren Bartley, Ganni’s Chief Sustainability Officer, emphasized that the partnership with CanopyStyle and Pack4Good is a critical move in their strategy to reduce environmental impact. Canopy’s Founder, Nicole Rycroft, noted that the collaboration has the potential to significantly transform the fashion industry’s environmental footprint.
This collaboration marks a significant step in Ganni's efforts to lead a supply chain revolution while ensuring the protection of the world’s vital forests.
Abercrombie & Fitch Cohas partnered with Haddad Brands to expand its kidswear brands-Abercrombie Kids internationally. Through this collaboration, Abercrombie & Fitch Co will continue to produce its children’s clothing line, while Haddad Brands will provide new distribution channels. The partnership will also include the introduction of baby and toddler categories into the Abercrombie Kids range, which currently caters to children aged 5 to 14.
Starting next month, Aberchrombie plans to launch its Fall 2025 Abercrombie Kids collection in Haddad Brands’ showrooms worldwide. This move aligns with the company’s recent strong performance despite challenging market conditions for other retailers. In fiscal 2024, the net sales of Abercrombie & Fitch increased by 16 per cent to $4.3 billion, with sales of its brands, including Abercrombie Kids growing by 35 per cent Y-o-Y. The momentum continued into the first quarter, where the company’s overall net sales rose by 22.1 per cent Y-o-Yto just over $1 billion while the net sales of Abercrombie brands grew by 31.1 per cent to $571.5 million.
The partnership with Haddad Brands is part of Abercrombie & Fitch Co’s strategy to further diversify its channel mix and drive sustainable, profitable growth. The company’s push into the children’s apparel market comes as competition intensifies. Macy’s recently reintroduced its Epic Threads children’s line across all stores and online, while Target began selling its Cat & Jack children’s line at 82 Hudson’s Bay locations in July. Meanwhile, legacy brands like The Children’s Place are grappling with internal challenges, including the recent departure of its CEO amid strategic and financial struggles.
To be held from Sep 03-07, 2025, the 2025 Spring/Summer Seoul Fashion Week will connect 95 Korean brands with 120 global buyers. The event will showcase the upcoming year's spring and summer collections at Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) and other key fashion districts across the city.
Since its inception in 2000, this annual event has aimed to elevate K-fashion on the global stage by strengthening the international networks of domestic designers and fashion brands, linking them with buyers from around the world.
This year, the event will focus on enhancing exchanges and maximising contract opportunities through a more robust business program. It will feature prominent apparel brands including Youser, Julycolumn, Ulkin, Eenk, Bonbom, Amomento, and Marhenj.
Prominent international buyers, such as France's Prendang clothing store, Japan's Daimaru department store, and Singapore's Club 21, will also attend the show, highlighting the high expectations for the event.
The tradeshow will feature one-on-one business consultations at each brand’s pop-up booth, with a total of 62 brands—spanning women’s clothing, unisex, men’s clothing, accessories, and jewelry—scheduled for around 15 buyer consultations each.
Additionally, first introduced at the 2024 Fall/Winter Fashion Week, the showroom tour program will be expanded this year. This program allows buyers to visit designer showrooms for in-depth consultations. Due to its success in enhancing brand understanding and securing orders, the program will now include Hannam, alongside Seongsu and Cheongdam.
A total of 28 brands will participate in the expanded showroom tour, featuring 18 operating showrooms. Each showroom will host approximately six buyer consultation sessions.
Furthermore, this year’s Seoul Fashion Week will introduce a new presentation program aimed at international buyers and media. Designer brands such as Seokwoon Yoon, Eenk, Boncom, Mmam, and Hyosung TNC, a chemical manufacturing company, will present their collections at DDP and Hannam-dong showrooms.
Sustainable fashion will be a key focus of this year’s event, emphasised through presentations, exhibitions, and resource circulation projects. Under this theme, Hyosung TNC will make a presentation on eco-friendly materials, including fabrics made from recycled fishing nets. Designer brand PartsPartswill host an exhibition titled ‘Zero Waste Design Philosophy and Sustainable Fashion.’
Seoul Fashion Week provides a crucial opportunity to Korean designers and brands to create global business prospects, says Choi Pahn-kyu, Head-Creative Industry Planning Bureau, Seoul Metropolitan Government. The tradeshow enables the governmento help international buyers recognise the potential of the K-fashion industry, fostering greater collaboration and achieving tangible results, he adds.
The fashion industry is notorious for its environmental impact accounting for roughly 10 per cent of global carbon emissions according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. From overproduction leading to textile waste to resource-intensive dyeing processes, the need for a sustainable change is clear. Enter on-demand fashion, a revolutionary approach that promises to disrupt the traditional model by producing clothes only after an order is placed.
The need for change
The traditional fashion model relies on ‘made-to-stock’ production. Large quantities of clothing are produced based on forecasts, often leading to excess inventory and ultimately, waste. A 2022 study found the industry generates a staggering 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually. Additionally, many fashion brands have been accused of unethical practices, such as burning unsold clothes. Clearly, the current system is unsustainable.
Environmental impact: The fashion industry is a major polluter, responsible for an estimated 10 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions. Production also generates massive amounts of textile waste, with 92 million tons discarded annually.
Wasteful practices: Traditional ‘made-to-stock’ models lead to overproduction and unsold inventory. Fast fashion, known for trendy, cheap clothing, is a prime culprit.
Ethical concerns: Low wages and unsafe working conditions plague garment workers, particularly in developing countries.
On-demand fashion, a new path
On-demand fashion flips the traditional model on its head. Clothing is only produced when a confirmed order is placed. This eliminates the risk of overproduction and significantly reduces waste. Proponents also envision a more agile supply chain, with smaller production batches and factories located closer to consumers. On-demand fashion dismantles the traditional ‘push’ system, where vast quantities of clothing are produced based on forecasts, often leading to unsold inventory and eventual waste. Instead, it adopts a ‘pull’ system, where garments are manufactured based on confirmed customer orders. This reduces the risk of overstock and minimizes waste generation.
On-demand fashion seeks to:
• Reduce waste: By producing clothes only when needed, on-demand fashion eliminates the risk of overproduction and unsold inventory ending up in landfills.
• Promotes sustainability: On-demand models often incorporate more sustainable practices like using recycled materials and local manufacturing, reducing the environmental impact of transportation.
• Enhances customization: On-demand allows for greater customization options, catering to individual needs and reducing the pressure to follow fleeting trends.
A 2023 study by GlobeNewswire predicts the on-demand fashion market will reach $38.2 billion by 2027. This growth is pushed by the increasing adoption of data analytics. On-demand companies leverage customer data and real-time trends to predict demand more accurately, minimizing the risk of overproduction.
Stitch Fix, a leading personalized styling service, exemplifies the on-demand model. Customers fill out style profiles and receive curated clothing selections based on their preferences. This approach reduces impulse purchases and ensures garments are actually worn. Stitch Fix itself reported a 30 per cent decrease in returns in 2022, highlighting the effectiveness of data-driven personalization in reducing waste. Similarly, The R Collective, a US-based clothing company, uses on-demand manufacturing to create high-quality, ethically made garments. Their model allows for customization and reduces waste by producing clothes only after an order is confirmed. "On-demand fashion empowers us to create clothing that aligns with our values," says Vanessa Liu, Founder, The R Collective. "We can offer unique styles while minimizing our environmental impact."
In fact, several established fashion brands are experimenting with on-demand models. Levi's launched a customization platform allowing customers to personalize their jeans. Patagonia offers a ‘Worn Wear’ program where customers can buy and sell used Patagonia clothing, extending the life cycle of garments. Burberry launched a program offering limited-edition, customizable trench coats produced on-demand. And Adidas introduced a line of customizable sneakers that customers can design and order online.
The business model and scalability
On-demand fashion offers a compelling business model. To begin with it reduces inventory costs as brands don't have to hold large amounts of stock, freeing up capital and storage space. It increases brands’ agility as they have faster response time for trends and customer preference. Has the potential for higher margins, as personalized items can command premium prices.
However, scalability presents challenges. Scaling up production quickly to meet surge demand requires a robust on-demand manufacturing network. Moreover, customers may expect faster delivery times as on-demand production eliminates pre-made stock.
The future of on-demand fashion
While widespread adoption may take time, on-demand fashion offers a promising path towards a more sustainable and ethical garment industry. Initiatives like:
Supply-side innovation: Companies like Unspun (3D weaving) and Silana (robotic sewing) are developing technologies to facilitate efficient on-demand production.
Demand-side education: Consumers need to understand the true cost of fast fashion and embrace a more mindful approach to clothing consumption.
Regulation and transparency: Government regulations like France's Anti-Waste Circular Economy Act can incentivize sustainable practices.
Indeed, the on-demand model necessitates a shift in the traditional fashion supply chain. Localization of manufacturing, near-shoring, and on-demand printing technologies will likely become more prominent. Traditional large-scale manufacturers may need to adapt by offering smaller batch production capabilities. It does hold immense potential for a more sustainable and responsible fashion future. By embracing innovation, educating consumers, and implementing supportive regulations, the industry can move towards a more ethical and environmentally conscious model.
The Textile Exchange’s latest Materials Market Report paints a complex picture of the global fiber market. A market that despite economic headwinds, has shown remarkable resilience, expanding to a record 113 million tonnes in 2021. This highlights a near-doubling in the past two decades, with projections indicating a further increase to 149 million tonnes by 2030 if current trends persist.
However, the report underscores a critical dichotomy: while the market is booming, its environmental footprint is deepening. The dominance of virgin fossil-based synthetic fibers, particularly polyester, is a cause for concern. Despite growing awareness about sustainability, these fibers continue to hold almost 54 per cent market share due to their lower cost. As experts say, the global fiber market is at a crossroads. On one hand, there is unprecedented growth but on the other, we face the looming shadow of unsustainable practices. It's imperative to shift towards more sustainable options.
Cotton, a cornerstone with cracks
Cotton, long considered the king of fibers, is facing a multifaceted challenge. While it remains a staple in wardrobes globally, its market share has dipped, reflecting a complex interplay of factors. The report highlights a decline in cotton grown through sustainable programs, from 27 per cent in 2021 to 24 per cent in 2022. This indicates a need for deeper brand commitment and support for farmers.
Moreover, the cotton industry grapples with issues of water consumption, pesticide use, and land degradation. Despite initiatives like Better Cotton and Organic Cotton, the road to sustainability is still long. Cotton is undoubtedly an important fiber, but its future hinges on addressing sustainability challenges, say experts. One needs to move beyond certifications and create a system that ensures holistic well-being of farmers and the environment.
Manmade fibers, the synthetic surge
Manmade fibers, led by polyester, have experienced meteoric growth. Their low cost, versatility, and performance properties have made them the darling of the fashion industry. However, the report underscores the environmental implications of their production, primarily from fossil fuels.
A glimmer of hope lies in the growing market for recycled manmade fibers, particularly recycled polyester from plastic bottles. While still a small fraction of the overall market, it represents a step in the right direction. Experts point out, the dominance of manmade fibers is a double-edged sword. While they offer immense potential, their environmental impact cannot be ignored. The industry must accelerate its transition to recycled and sustainably produced manmade fibers.
The cotton vs. manmade conundrum
The report doesn't pit cotton against manmade fibers but rather highlights the need for a balanced approach. Both fiber types have their strengths and weaknesses, and the optimal choice often depends on the end product and its intended use. The future, experts suggest, lies in innovation and diversification. Blending cotton with manmade fibers, developing new sustainable materials, and circular economy models are potential pathways forward.
The Textile Exchange’s Materials Market Report serves as a wake-up call for the industry. It underscores the urgent need for a systemic shift towards sustainability. By understanding the dynamics of the global fiber market, stakeholders can make informed decisions and drive positive change.
Burberry, the iconic British fashion house, has found itself in a peculiar position. While the brand has been aggressively increasing prices across its product range, it has simultaneously seen outlet store sales increase. This paradoxical situation raises questions about the sustainability and efficacy of Burberry's strategy.
In recent years, Burberry has implemented substantial price increases, with some products witnessing a jump of up to 20 per cent in a single season. The strategy, ostensibly aimed at boosting the brand’s perceived value, has coincided with a broader industry trend of luxury brands seeking to optimize margins. However, the effectiveness of this approach is being challenged by the brand’s growing reliance on outlet stores. Experts point out, luxury brands walk a fine line between exclusivity and accessibility, while price increases can enhance the perception of luxury, they can also deter potential customers who may feel priced out of the market.
Outlet boom: A silver lining or a warning sign?
Despite the price hikes, Burberry has reported a significant increase in sales from its outlet stores. This suggests that consumers are still drawn to the brand but are unwilling to pay full price for its products. While this may seem like a positive development, it could also indicate a long-term problem. At the same time full-price stores have also reported growth, the disproportionate rise in outlet sales suggests a potential shift in consumer behavior.
Retail analysts say it’s a classic case of luxury dilution. By aggressively increasing prices, Burberry is pushing consumers towards discount channels. This not only erodes brand value but also creates a perception of the brand as less exclusive. The appeal of outlet shopping lies in the promise of luxury at a discounted price. As Burberry’s products become more expensive, consumers are increasingly drawn to outlet stores for perceived value. This trend could have far-reaching consequences for the brand's image.
And as some argue, outlet sales can be a double-edged sword. On one hand, they can help to generate additional revenue. On the other hand, they can damage the brand’s prestige and exclusivity.
Where is this strategy leading?
Burberry's dual strategy of price hikes and outlet expansion is a complex one. On one hand, the brand is attempting to maintain its luxury positioning by increasing prices. On the other, it is catering to a price-sensitive segment of the market through its outlet stores. Burberry has defended its pricing strategy, arguing that it is necessary to maintain the brand’s luxury positioning and offset rising costs. However, the company has yet to provide a clear explanation for the increase in outlet sales.
Some analysts believe that the brand may be overestimating its pricing power. As the global economy faces challenges and consumer spending becomes more cautious, luxury brands may find it increasingly difficult to pass on price increases to customers. Retail experts point out, the luxury market is becoming more competitive. Consumers have more choices and if Burberry continues to raise prices without delivering commensurate value, they risk losing customers to other brands.
Ultimately, the success of Burberry's strategy will depend on its ability to balance price increases with brand desirability. If the brand can successfully communicate the value proposition of its products and maintain a loyal customer base, it may be able to justify higher prices. However, if customers feel they are being overcharged, the consequences could be severe.
