FW
The Indian government has postponed the implementation of the Quality Control Order (QCO) on cotton for another year. Originally set to take effect in 2023 and then delayed to 2024, the QCO will now come into force on August 27, 2025, according to a recent notification from the Ministry of Textiles.
The QCO mandates strict quality standards for cotton, including moisture and trash content, as prescribed by the Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS). However, the country's ginning industry, largely composed of MSMEs, is struggling to meet these requirements. The industry operates with outdated machinery, and modernizing to comply with the QCO would require significant investment, which many small units cannot afford.
While the QCO has already been implemented for polyester, viscose, and other fibres, cotton has been given more leeway due to these challenges. The Cotton Association of India (CAI) and other industry bodies had urged the government to extend the deadline, arguing that a phased approach is more practical given the industry's current limitations.
This extension is seen as a temporary relief for the ginning sector, allowing more time to upgrade facilities and meet the stringent standards that will eventually be enforced.
Twenty-five Vietnamese garment makers showcased their products at this year’s edition of Sourcing at Magic Fashion Trade Show in Las Vegas, US, as per reports by the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS).
Held from Aug 19-21, 2024, the trade show featured a wide range of products made by different materials and in different patterns and designs in 16 pavilions.
The United States is a traditional export market of Vietnamese textiles and garments, accounting for a large turnover. In the first six months of 2024, the United States importedtextiles worth $7.2 billion from Vietnam, making up 7.2 per cent of the US market share, second only to China.
However, the United States importers are tightening regulations on imported products, especially with supply chain control. VITAS has advised garment makers to diversify supply sources of materials from new markets, instead of relying on China that supplies more than 50 per cent of the materials to the Vietnamese garment industry.
Currently, many local garment makers have imported materials from the Republic of Korea, India and Japan, among other markets.
The Government has approved the Strategy for development of Vietnam’s Textiles, Clothing, Leather and Footwear industries to 2030, with a vision to 2035, which emphasises domestic supplies of materials. Businesses are encouraged to promote investment in modern technology in production, thereby gradually solving difficulties and proactively controlling supply sources to reduce dependence.
In just five days, Shanghai will host Yarn Expo Autumn 2024 from August 27 to 29 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center. The event promises to be a hub of activity for exhibitors, visitors, and industry experts, fostering valuable connections and business deals. Over 500 suppliers from 15 countries will gather, with special pavilions and zones showcasing the latest in innovative, eco-friendly, and quality products.
Key highlights include the India Pavilion, which will feature over 40 enterprises, marking the highest exhibitor number in a decade. Organized byCotton Textiles Export Promotion Council(TEXPROCIL), the pavilion will present an array of traditional and eco-friendly cotton products from leading companies such as Indo Industries, Padwa Worldwide, and Niva Organics. The Pakistan Zone will also stand out, with major exhibitors like Abtex International and Masood Textile Mills showcasing their diverse offerings, including fancy yarns, greige, and organic cotton.
In addition to these international zones, the expo will feature domestic product zones, including the Chemical Fibre, Cotton Yarn, and Fancy Yarn Zones. The Chemical Fibre Zone, with nearly 200 companies, will spotlight eco-friendly and functional fibres, while the Cotton Yarn and Fancy Yarn Zones will bring together over 100 exhibitors each, highlighting innovation and green potential in their respective categories.
Beyond the exhibition floor, Yarn Expo will host a series of fringe events aimed at steering industry trends and developments. Key events include the China Fibre Fashion Trends 2024/2025 Display Zone, the Textile Materials Innovation Forum, and various product launches. These events will feature insights from university professors, scholars, and industry leaders, offering attendees a glimpse into the future of yarn and fibre applications.
Running concurrently with Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition, CHIC, and PH Value, Yarn Expo Autumn will bring together multiple sectors under one roof, amplifying business opportunities for all participants. The event is co-organized by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Sub-Council of Textile Industry, CCPIT.
Marking a significant advancement in scalable textile-to-textile recycling, Unifi has introduced two innovative products—white-dyeable filament yarn and ThermaLoop insulation material. Both these products are made from 100 per cent recycled polyester feedstock, excluding additives and colorants, and consist of at least 50 per cent textile waste. Despite their recycled origins, these products achieve virgin-quality standards, demonstrating Unifi’s commitment to sustainability without compromising on performance.
These products were created using Unifi’s Textile Takeback process, which recycles global post-industrial and post-consumer textile waste into next-generation materials. The company is partnering with global brands to reclaim their waste and keep materials in circulation longer, contributing to a more sustainable textile industry.
The new circular Repreve filament yarn is a versatile, white, dyeable, high-performance polyester designed for critical applications across various industries. This circular polyester line also includes black filament yarn and black and white staple fiber, all of which feature FiberPrint tracer technology, ensuring U-Trust certification for authenticity and sustainability.
Available in down-like fiber, fiberball, and padding formats, thermaLoop insulation offers excellent performance, recovery, and thermal efficiency. Engineered with Repreve low melt fiber, the padding's launch in black insulation highlights the diverse types of textile waste that can be repurposed as feedstock.
These products can be seamlessly integrated into existing supply chains, addressing a significant challenge for polyester-reliant industries, particularly fashion brands aiming to create circular apparel in line with sustainability goals. Unifi’s initiative supports the company’s ambitious target to recycle the equivalent of 1.5 billion t-shirts worth of textile waste by 2030.
From Rs 1,081 crore in 2013-14, the sales of Khadi fabrics expanded by staggering 500 per cent to reach Rs 6,496 crore in 2023-24.
In the previous fiscal year, 2022-23, the sales of Khadi fabric had amounted to Rs 5,943 crore. As per the Khadi and Village Industries Commission, (KVIC), this growth was fueled by extensive promotional initiatives that have significantly expanded Khadi's global reach, from the US and UK to Europe and Dubai.
The Indian government has launched several initiatives to establish Khadi as a global brand and boost its exports. A few of these include the registration of the Khadi trademark in five countries—Germany, the UK, Australia, Russia, and China—and efforts to prevent the misuse of the Khadi brand name internationally. Additionally, the Centre of Excellence for Khadi (CoEK) has collaborated with various Khadi institutions to develop new clothing lines featuring vibrant colors and modern silhouettes.
Employment in Khadi and village industries has also increased from 1.3 crore in FY 2013-14 to 1.87 crore in FY 2023-24 As per KVIC, sales under its supervision increased to Rs 1.5 lakh crore in the FY 2023-24, compared to ₹1.3 lakh crore the previous year. As a statutory entity under the Ministry of Micro, Small, and Medium Enterprises, the commission is tasked with promoting Khadi fabric and providing employment opportunities for rural artisans.
India’s textile and apparel (T&A) exports grew by 4.73 per cent Y-o-Y to $2.94 billion in July 2024as against $2.81 billion in July 2023, as per figures by the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI).
Apparel exports from India grew by 11.85 per cent Y-o-Y to $1.28 billion during the month as against $1.14 billion in July 2023. This growth could be attributed to the rising demand for Indian apparel in prominent markets such as the US, the EU and the UK, says RakeshMehra, Chairman, CITI.
Meanwhile, India’s textile exports remained steady in July 2024 to $1.66 billion compared to July 2023. CITI remains optimistic about the future growth of the T&A industry in India. The free trade agreements (FTAs) being negotiated by the government will provide additional momentum to these exports, adds Mehra.
Anticipating growth, the industry is strategically positioning itself to capitalise on these opportunities, ensuring India remains a key player in the global textiles and apparel market.
Hyosung will introduce innovative sustainable textile solutions and fresh designs across its value chain at the world’s largest professional fabrics and accessories exhibition, China International Textile Fabrics and Accessories (CITFA) A/W Expo.
To be held in Shanghai from Aug 27-29, 2024, the expo serves as a comprehensive platform for showcasing new products, technologies, trends, and concepts in the textile industry, fostering healthy and sustainable development through collaboration.
Hyosung will participate in this exhibition along with 27 domestic and international partners. It will occupy a large 828 sqm booth to showcase its multi-functional and eco-friendly yarns including regen spandex and regen Bio Spandex, says Scott Park, Hyosung Marketing Director, China.
Hyosung's RCS-certified, 100 per cent recycled regen Spandex is produced from reclaimed waste generated during Hyosung’s manufacturing process. On the other hand, Regen Bio Spandexis made from renewable resources instead of petroleum-based materials, helping to reduce carbon footprint and reliance on non-renewable resources. Hyosung offers three bio-based Spandex yarns with varying amounts of renewable content: regen BIO, regen BIO+, and regen BIO Max.
Additionally, Hyosung will highlight its popular Creora Fresh Spandex, which will now be produced domestically in China. Creora Fresh Spandex is known for its odour-neutralising functionality and high elasticity. Utilising a chemical neutralisation method, Creora Fresh efficiently and permanently neutralises odor components like ammonia, acetic acid, and isovaleric acid, ensuring lasting freshness and comfort.
Hyosung’s Fashion Design Center (FDC) team will also present the latest trends for the Spring/Summer 2026 season, incorporating consumer needs into product design and development. The presentation will feature three major textile trends across different apparel categories: sports/outdoor, lingerie, and home leisure.
Zara was compelled to withdraw a controversial children’s T-shirt from sale after it sparked outrage among parents on TikTok, with many criticising it as being sexually suggestive, according to The New York Post.
Featuring a picture of a strawberry with captions like, ’The Perfect Snack’ and ‘Take a bite,’ the white crew-neck shirt invited backlash from mothers who found the messaging inappropriate.
Laura Wilson, a 32-year-old mother of two from London, criticised the message on the T-shirt as being ‘completely unnecessary and inappropriate. Despite Zara apologizing for the message and removing the shirt from their inventory, Wilson continued to criticise it, voicing concern over how individuals with harmful intentions might interpret the design.
This incident underscores the challenges fashion brands face in navigating controversial content. Zara has encountered similar backlash in the past, notably in December, when an ad campaign featuring mannequins wrapped in white sheets drew criticism for its perceived resemblance to scenes of carnage in the Gaza Strip.
The US textile industry mourns the passing of Congressman Bill Pascrell (D-NJ), a staunch advocate for American manufacturing and the domestic textile supply chain. National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas expressed deep sorrow, highlighting Pascrell's unwavering commitment to confronting unfair trade practices and supporting US manufacturers.
Pascrell, who served as co-chair of the House Textile Caucus since 2013 alongside Rep. Patrick McHenry (R-NC), was instrumental in advancing key legislation. Notably, he championed the Import Security and Fairness Act, which aimed to exclude Chinese imports from de minimis treatment. His efforts also included co-sponsoring a bill to strengthen the American PPE supply chain by expanding the Berry Amendment to encompass nearly all federal PPE purchases.
Pascrell's dedication to onshoring and nearshoring textile production, as well as safeguarding the US Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR), underscored his commitment to bolstering the domestic manufacturing sector. His contributions extended beyond textiles, benefiting American manufacturers and workers nationwide.
Kim Glas praised Pascrell as a "manufacturing warrior" whose legacy will be deeply missed by the industry and all who knew him. The NCTO extends heartfelt condolences to the Pascrell family and his staff.
Gen Z, the generation born between the mid-1990s and early 2010s, is rapidly emerging as a key driver of the fashion industry. Their spending patterns, shaped by digital fluency, social consciousness, and an evolving sense of identity, are influencing fashion brands across the globe. These digital natives preferences driven by factors such as sustainability, social consciousness, and instant gratification, are forcing brands to rethink their strategies. And understanding these patterns, and their nuances across different fashion segments and regions, is crucial for brands aiming to thrive in this new era.
Digital natives spending patterns
One major trait among Gen Z consumers is they are mindful of their spending and seeks value beyond price tags. They are drawn to brands that align with their values, whether it's sustainability, ethical practices, or social responsibility. Social media and e-commerce play a significant role in their shopping journeys. Gen Z relies heavily on online reviews, influencer recommendations, and seamless digital experiences. They value authenticity, sustainability, and inclusivity, often prioritizing these factors over traditional brand loyalty. Gen Z values individuality and self-expression through their fashion choices. They gravitate towards brands that offer customization and unique designs.
At the same time they are also impulsive spenders who look for experiential consumption. A recent survey by Zhaopin, an online recruitment platform, in China revealed that nearly half 49.1 per cent of Gen Z consumers have increased their spending to "live in the moment." This trend towards experiential consumption is further evidenced by the fact that 39.7 per cent spend to relieve stress and 31.9 per cent increase spending as their income rises. However, the same survey also unveiled a contrasting trend. Almost three-quarters (74.2 per cent) of respondents who reduced their spending cited prioritizing value for money as the primary reason. This suggests a cautious and considered approach to consumption among a significant portion of Gen Z.
While fast fashion remains popular due to its affordability and trendiness, Gen Z is also embracing premium and luxury brands, often for special occasions or investment pieces. This reflects a desire for quality, longevity, and self-expression. Their spending patterns exhibit regional variations. While American Gen Zers tend to prioritize comfort and individuality, European counterparts are more inclined toward classic styles and sustainability. In Asia, particularly in emerging markets, Gen Z is driving a boom in luxury consumption.
In fact, the rise of athleisure, driven by a focus on health and wellness, is a prominent trend across all regions. Denim remains a staple, but Gen Z is seeking more sustainable and innovative options. Casual wear, reflecting Gen Z's laid-back lifestyle, is also gaining traction.
Table: Gen Z fashion spending patterns
|
Factor |
Impact |
|
Market segment |
|
|
Luxury |
Increased interest, particularly for investment pieces and special occasions |
|
Premium |
Growing demand for quality and unique styles |
|
Fast Fashion |
Remains popular due to affordability and trendiness |
|
Region |
|
|
USA |
Focus on comfort, individuality, and athleisure |
|
Europe |
Preference for classic styles, sustainability, and premium brands |
|
Asia |
Rising luxury consumption, particularly in emerging markets |
|
Fashion Sector |
|
|
Menswear |
Growing interest in streetwear, athleisure, and self-expression |
|
Womenswear |
Diverse trends, including athleisure, vintage, and sustainable fashion |
|
Kidswear |
Increased demand for comfortable, stylish, and sustainable options |
|
Product Sector |
|
|
Athleisure |
Significant growth driven by health and wellness trends |
|
Denim |
Continues to be popular, with a focus on sustainability and innovation |
|
Casualwear |
Increasing demand, reflecting Gen Z's laid-back lifestyle |
|
Classicwear |
Steady interest, often for special occasions or investment pieces |
Understanding a complex cohort
The conflicting consumption patterns present a complex challenge for luxury brands. While they can capitalize on Gen Z's desire for instant gratification and status symbols, they must also demonstrate value and sustainability to appeal to the more rational segment. A study by McKinsey survey supports this duality, highlighting Gen Z's focus on health-conscious lifestyles and social interaction. This suggests that luxury brands should not only offer products that provide immediate pleasure but also align with consumers' long-term aspirations for well-being and personal growth. Trade analysts point out, Gen Z is the most diverse and socially conscious generation yet. They expect brands to reflect their values and contribute to a better world.
And to pander to their demands brands have reworked their strategies. Nike for example, successfully caters to Gen Z's desire for athleisure and personalization through its customizable sneakers and focus on sustainability. Similarly Everlane appeals to Gen Z's value-driven consumption with its transparent pricing and focus on ethical practices. And Gucci engages Gen Z through its playful and irreverent marketing campaigns and collaborations with influencers.
Gen Z's spending patterns are transforming the fashion industry, forcing brands to adapt and evolve. By understanding their values, preferences, and digital habits, brands can create meaningful connections and build lasting relationships with this influential generation.
