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In the two years since the launch of the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) 2020 targets, WRAP claims that waste generated by the clothing supply chains has remained ‘stable’. WRAP identified key areas that could deliver reductions in environmental impact of clothing. These are: using lower impact fibres, extending the active life of clothes, and increasing re-use and recycling and that is when SCAP was launched in 2013. Retailers such as Marks & Spencer, have signed up to the SCAP 2020 commitment.
Signatories pledged to reduce carbon, water and waste to landfill by 15 per cent alongside a 3.5 per cent reduction in the amount of waste arising per tonne of clothing by 2020, under the commitments. A 16,000 tonne waste reduction across the clothing supply chain, encompassing the entire lifecycle of the products would be required for the targets measured against a 2012 baseline.
Nationwide retailers such as the Arcadia Group, Debenhams, John Lewis, New Look, Next, and Marks and Spencer, including clothing designers, textile recyclers and waste management firms are all a part of the 82 signatories and supporters that signed up to the commitment. WRAP estimates that signatories to the commitment represent over 50 percent of the UK retail market by sales, volume and value.
Director of WRAP, Marcus Gover said that SCAP signatories have made great progress against the targets to date, particularly water and that this was a positive indication of what can be achieved and it must be capitalised on the momentum it has been built. He added that they would be working with the sector to ensure focus is maintained on priority areas.
A further sharp downturn in emerging market economies and world trade has weakened global growth to around 2.9 per cent this year – well below the long-run average – and is a source of uncertainty for near-term prospects, says the OECD, the organisation of Economic Cooperation and Development.
In its latest twice-yearly, the OECD projects a gradual strengthening of global growth in 2016 and 2017 to an annual 3.3 per cent and 3.6 per cent respectively. But a clear pick-up in activity requires a smooth rebalancing of activity in China and more robust investment in advanced economies. Emerging market challenges, weak trade and concerns about potential output suggest higher downside risks and vulnerabilities compared with the OECD’s June Outlook.
Presenting the outlook in Paris on November 9, 2015, OECD Secretary-General Angel Gurría said, “The slowdown in global trade and the continuing weakness in investment are deeply concerning. Robust trade and investment and stronger global growth should go hand in hand. G-20 leaders meeting in Antalya need to renew their efforts to secure strong, sustainable and balanced growth.”
The outlook calls for greater ambition by OECD and G20 countries in supporting demand and pursuing structural reforms to boost potential growth and ensure that its economic benefits are shared by all. It calls for policies to support short-term demand, including on-going monetary and fiscal policy support in accordance with countries’ policy space. Collective action to increase public investment is essential and would increase growth without increasing debt-to-GDP ratios.
www.oecd.org
2BFUNTEX Final Conference
14 November 2015 -Taking place at the Research and Innovation Speakers Platform, the conference will feature a presentation by the winner of the functional textiles technology competition. Other discussion topics include textiles for technical applications, etc. Digital Textile Conference
15 November 2015 - This conference on provides a comprehensive presentation of the most important new developments in the printing sector, in particular digital textile printing. Themed ‘The Next Stage: Latest Advances in Production Inkjet Printing’, it will offer detailed insights into these innovations across applications that include fashion, home and technical textiles. It is organised by World Textile Information Network.
BCI’s Responsible Cotton Forum
17 November 2015 -Learn about global challenges in cotton production and how BCI is able to provide leading retailers and brands with a mainstream option for more sustainably produced cotton. The Better Cotton Standard is designed to help mitigate risks and create opportunities in existing cotton supply chains. The forum comprises three sessions: How BCI Equips the Value Chain with Sustainability Solutions, Nike Inc. &Candiani Share Experiences of Industry Collaboration on Better Cotton, and Cotton Market Challenges with Louis Dreyfus Commodities.
EURATEX Convention
18 November 2015-Industry and technology thought leaders will discuss if the EU textile and apparel sector has found enduring competitive advantages in its focus on quality, innovation and sustainability. Textile and clothing manufacturers will share experiences, and promising technologies and markets in a roundtable discussion.
Overview of the Italian Textiles and Clothing Sector
Presentation by SistemaModa Italia, 19 November 2015-The presentation focuses on recent trends of the Italian textiles and clothing industry; the industry’s position in the global context and its role in the Italian economy; the evolution of the Italian consumer market and retail. The speaker is Dr. C Gilodi, Department Manager, Statistics Department, SistemaModa Italia.
Two-decade old Plummy Fashions started its journey as a small knitwear exporting company. Recently it got ‘Greenest Production Facility’ in the world certificate from a UK-based association.
“Some are not really interested in the green idea. That means they are focusing on their margins and benefits. But there are good buyers and good initiators who support our ideas and sustainability concept. They are leading brands in Europe and the US,” says Fazlul Hoque, Managing Director of Plummy Fashions and former president, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BKMEA) and Bangladesh Employers’ Federation.
Challenges facing Bangladesh
Bangladesh has grown fast despite the fact it doesn’t have strong raw material and machinery base because of investors backing and entrepreneurial skills. In 1983, some business shifted from Sri Lanka to Bangladesh and entrepreneurs grabbed the opportunity in RMG supported by the quota system. Initial growth came from the US market and duty free access all over Europe boosted business. “The political turmoil in Pakistan and developments in China also helped Bangladesh. Preferential treaties like duty free access to Europe, Canada, Australia, Japan, China and India helped us get an edge over competitors like Pakistan and Vietnam,” explains Hoque.
But he thinks the industry could have done better with sound policies. “The pace of infrastructure development was slow, while the apparel business grew. So there was a mismatch. If the two had grown in tandem, we would have had a much better scenario. Instead of a $25 billion industry, we would have been a $35 or $40 billion industry,” avers Hoque.
However, challenges like euro depreciation, Europeans buying in dollars and selling in euros, fall in cotton prices, no preferential access to the US and compliance issues after Rana Plaza collapse have had a serious impact. “Every factory has to undergo a strict procedure. Some factories can’t cope. They have had to reduce productivity because they have to keep some portions closed. Some entrepreneurs felt the requirements were excessive. Buyers became shaky about sourcing from Bangladesh. These are some of the reasons causing a slowdown in our growth rate,” he asserts.
Steps to bounce back
But the situation, says Hoque is improving with buyers regaining confidence and increasing sourcing. “While Alliance is arranging soft loans for entrepreneurs, Accord is left behind in that perspective but their inspection reports are on the whole accepted. Inspection of factories after Rana Plaza showed that only two per cent were not safe. Out of this two per cent, many factories took remedial steps including structural safety, fire safety and other compliance issues,” he explains.
Players are investing in new technology, product development, quality improvement. Big names are sourcing from Bangladesh and not all of them for low price. Major buyers have their own sourcing office in Bangladesh. “Earlier they had offices in India to oversee Bangladesh operations. Many buyers who used to source third party now source directly. When you are a 30-year-old industry you can’t work only on price. We have to work also on quality, product development and delivery. There is a market also for expensive products. Once we were known as a supplier of only cotton based products. But now we have multi fiber products, blended products. So we are enhancing our product basket,” states Hoque.
As for TPP, Hoque says it may take a couple of years to come into force. “I think it’s about a preferential duty, not necessarily zero duty. Bangladesh is not part of TPP. Only one of our competitors is in TPP, Vietnam. There is a fear Vietnam will overtake Bangladeshi exports to the US. I don’t think that will happen. Among the TPP countries, only the US produces raw cotton and though Singapore also produces raw cotton, it is very expensive. In the short term I don’t see TPP as a problem. But in the long term we have to see how it develops. Especially Vietnam is backed by huge Chinese investments. We have to see how we can have a similar treaty with the US and other countries like Russia where we don’t have preferential access,” he says.
MTEX Solutions is a leading wide format digital textile printer manufacturer. MTEX is launching a new mini lab for sampling digitally printed textiles. The mini lab comprises a coater, steamer, washer and dryer which, when coupled with a digital textile pigment, acid or reactive printer, will produce a million square samples accurately in a controlled professional environment.
The MTEX CW-100 coater and washer coats standard fabrics such as cotton, linen and silk ready for digital textile printing. Once coated, the material is passed through two rollers to squeeze out excess liquid and gain the correct coating weight. The fabric is then put through the MTEX D-100 dryer and dries ready to be printed.
Once the print sample is complete, the printed fabric is then mounted into the MTEX S-100 steamer and steamed for the required amount of time depending on the ink or dye type used. The MTEX S-100 features controlled humidity and an inbuilt steam generator so the unit is concise, compact, with a small footprint and only requires a standard cold water connection.
Once steamed, the fabric can then be washed in the CW-100 wash tank and again dried on the D-100 dryer to complete the process. The entire workflow will take between 20 to 30 minutes depending on the dye type and the length of time in the steamer.
mtex.eu/
The wool industry, British Wool and the Campaign for Wool is planning a magnificent trade event for the South soon. For wool carpet manufacturers, the Wool Floor Show London, will provide a Spring event in March in the region, where much of the product is sold in the country. Some of the best carpet companies will come together to support the many new dynamic promotions, which are pushing the wool industry forward. The event itself, is a key part of the Campaign for Wool and British Wool Marketing Board’s promotional activity.
WoolRetailer.com, a new website for independent wool retailers, will be launched live at the show. This is also a promotional vehicle for wool carpets that has already received the backing and support of many key manufacturers and buying groups. The website includes a wool educational standard that is planned to give retailers and sales personnel ‘Wool Specialist’ status and also provide them with access to materials and promotional packages to support their business. Registration with the website will benefit retailers, as it offers both retailer and consumer appeal. Getting a quality wool retailer in the locality of the consumers is the aim and also that wool retailers can gain more knowledge, status and access tools to help them be better informed to sell wool carpets.
Campaign for Wool’s Wool Carpet Awards is the highlight of the event, which will celebrate wool’s performance, quality and style. The event will take place at the Chelsea Football Club Stadium.
Bridgette Kelly of the Campaign for Wool believes that the Wool Floor Show London is going to be the most impressive and stylish statement for wool flooring.
Myanmar’s small and medium-sized businesses want to work more closely with US companies. However, a number of important changes have to be made. Until 2003, more than 50 percent of Myanmar’s garment exports were shipped to the US. This was when trade sanctions crippled the industry, forcing many factories to close. The, the US government eased sanctions since 2012 prompting US companies such as Ball Corp, Coca-Cola and clothing retailer Gap, to reach out to local SMEs again.
U Than Htaik Lwin, Director of manufacturer Proven Group, during a US-ASEAN Business Council seminar in Yangon, said that SMEs in Myanmar could develop faster with help from the US. However, he also added that they need an open market and they would like to export to the US, but would first have to improve many things, such as access to funding and technology.
U Sai Maung from RWT Garment said that companies in the garment sector in particular wish to improve relations with the US. They had good relations before sanctions were imposed and if more US companies could engage with their garment sector, it would help with job creation, Maung added. However, at present, many struggle to find opportunities to work with US businesses and that US companies are unwilling to do business in Myanmar due to an underdeveloped supply chain, he stated. The costs in Myanmar are high and they don’t have factories to manufacture raw materials such as cotton, mentioned Maung.
According to Maung, the US sanctions has extended beyond US companies and another challenge was to understand what these US companies wanted. Businesspeople looking to export to the US would find it difficult at first, until they learn how to produce products to an international standard, he said.
H&M has a commitment to circular innovation within fashion and textiles. As one of the world’s largest fashion retailers, H&M has the potential to fundamentally shift the extent to which the clothing sector restores and regenerates fabrics and fibers for productive use — as it is working to develop a circular resource model for textiles.
The company is identifying opportunities to create value through circular practices and develop and implement targeted programs across its activities. Both the paper and textile industries are fiber-based. But the paper industry has already come a long way in terms of recycling. So a substantial opportunity exists for the clothing industry to emulate this success and to take it much further with regards to keeping high quality biological and technical based fibers in circulation.
H&M is committed to taking a leading role in these regenerative practices. It will work at applying circular economy thinking to all aspects of its operations and physical infrastructure, including its store footprint. Swedish retailer H&M operates clothing stores in 53 markets worldwide. Like many other European retailers, H&M is seeking to diversify from the crisis-hit euro zone. It has opened a store in New Delhi and a second one will follow soon.
https://www.hm.com/in/
A revolutionary colour solution for sewn products, CoatsMatch is being launched by Coats Group plc, the world’s leading industrial thread and consumer textile crafts business. It reduces lead times and the high costs associated with the colour design and approval processes and is targeted at the colour supply chain. The award winning thread sampling service Coats Colour Express’s success is what CoatsMatch is built upon. CoatsMatch has a portable and user-friendly colour-reading device like Coats Colour Express. Besides, CoatsMatch connects via Bluetooth to two mobile Apps—Coats Colour Select and Coats Colour Compare.
Coats Group plc CEO, Industrial, Rajiv Sharma said that CoatsMatch is another clear example of Coats using its global expertise to deliver customer-led innovation. Each a substantial amount of money is wasted through inefficiencies in the colour supply chain within the sewn products industry, he stated adding, that CoatsMatch helps reduce downtime and waste, resulting in lower costs for customers.
The colour is instantly loaded onto the Coats Colour Select App, once it has been captured. With its comprehensive set of more than 7,500 colour standards or a customer’s own colour library, this digital representation of the colour can then be accurately compared to the Coats Colour Atlas. Then, within seconds, the selected colour reference can also be transferred to other users along the supply chain, which in turns saves a substantial time and increases accuracy. Besides, a colour can be captured and referenced in the Coats Colour Compare App.
Colour supply chain stakeholders can share the measured colour standards, set tolerances within which a colour is acceptable, and compare physical fabric with their chosen colour for accuracy through the App.
Mexico-based Global Denim’s collection for Spring/Summer ’17 focuses on ‘weight’. Stretch and rigid is no longer a ‘valid conversation’ in the world of denim believes the Mexican mill, as both have become a norm in women’s and men’s market. Global Denim is dividing its collection into fabric under 10 oz. and fabric 10 oz. or more instead. Heavier fabrics with a more masculine appearance are examined in the Hardcore collection for S/S ’17. Global Denim is digging deeper into sturdier, high-stretch denim with Lycra for extreme activities as well as new denim with warp-only stretch. This is along with classic rigid denim.
In under 10 oz, Global Denim’s lightweight line, Enlightened, represents spring itself with fun, light and airy fabrications. Breezy shirting weights are teamed with Tencel bottom weights by the mill. Fit and better recovery alongside comfort and softness are provided by constructions with a structured, high-stretch foundation.
For the season, there are strong themes in deep indigo, ink and black, while naturals make a comeback as a light option. To round out its spring line, ‘Old Blue’, which is a lighter shade of blue is being introduced by the mill.
