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The joint ITMF Annual Conference and IAF World Fashion Convention, held from September 8-10 in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, underscored the country’s burgeoning influence in the global textile sector. Hosted by Uztextileprom, the Uzbekistan Textile and Garment Industry Association, and the Chamber of Commerce & Industry, Uzbekistan, the event drew over 350 industry leaders from more than 30 countries, signaling a pivotal moment for the industry.
Uzbekistan, known for its deep-rooted cotton production tradition and significant recent growth in textile exports, was chosen as this year’s host due to its impressive strides in sustainable development and its emerging role as a major player in the textile value chain.
Challenges and opportunities
IAF President CemAltan emphasized the crucial role of manufacturers in driving industry-wide change. “Apparel and textile manufacturers hold the keys to meaningful, positive change,” Altan noted, highlighting initiatives like decarbonization, reducing overproduction, and enhancing transparency. These efforts are essential as the industry faces high input costs, low demand, and regulatory pressures.
ITMF President KV Srinivasan echoed these sentiments, describing the current industry climate as a “perfect storm” of economic challenges. Despite these obstacles, the winners of the ITMF Awards 2024, recognized for achievements in ‘Start-up,’ ‘Sustainability & Innovation,’ and ‘International Cooperation,’ demonstrated the industry’s resilience and capacity for innovation.
Regulatory pressures and shared responsibility
The convention also spotlighted increasing global regulatory pressures on the textile sector. Altan stressed the importance of equitable distribution of the financial burden of sustainability standards across all supply chain partners, from raw material suppliers to end consumers.
Srinivasan emphasized the value of in-person meetings among industry leaders and experts from across the value chain. Such gatherings are crucial for discussing and analyzing both the immediate and long-term challenges and opportunities facing the industry.
Future outlook
The insights and partnerships formed during this historic event are expected to drive significant, positive changes across the apparel and textile industries. Both ITMF and IAF are optimistic that the collaboration and dialogue from the convention will contribute to overcoming current challenges and fostering sustainable growth in the sector.
Yarn Expo Autumn 2024 concluded on a high note, welcoming nearly 22,000 buyers from 81 countries and regions. The event showcased the textile industry's commitment to sustainability and innovation, featuring a wide array of eco-friendly products and solutions.
Diverse offerings and international participation
The fair attracted nearly 540 exhibitors from 15 countries and regions, including new additions like Germany and Thailand. International buyer numbers increased by 6.7%, demonstrating the show's growing global appeal. Nguyen Thi To Trang from Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group VinatexPhu Hung Joint Stock Company aptly captured the sentiment, saying, “We aim to connect with suppliers, buyers, and partners who are interested in green products, and we have met international and Chinese customers who share this interest.”
New product zones and innovative solutions
Yarn Expo Autumn introduced a new Silk Yarn Zone, further diversifying its product offerings. The show also featured quality cotton, recycled and bio-based yarns and fibres, as well as cutting-edge products utilizing bottle flakes, castor beans, and more.
Green transition in spotlight
Wilmet Shea, General Manager of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, highlighted the importance of sustainability in the global economy, especially in the textile industry. She emphasized that Yarn Expo, as a member of Messe Frankfurt's Texpertise Network, actively promotes the concept of the industry's green transition.
Echoing this sentiment, Karuna Changmai from Thai Acrylic Fibre Co., Ltd., Thailand remarked, "Yarn Expo emphasizes sustainability, featuring many exhibitors dedicated to green initiatives, which is crucial for the future of the fashion industry."
Fringe Programme Highlights Sustainability
The three-day fringe programme offered valuable insights into the industry's green future. The New Fibre New World - Textile Materials Innovation Forum focused on reducing environmental impact through new technology and materials. The Tongkun - China Fibre Fashion Trends 2024/2025 Display Zone showcased the latest trends, emphasizing the balance between style and sustainability.
Key Highlights:
• India launched Kasturi Cotton, a new initiative promoting premium cotton fabrics.
• Pakistani companies made a strong presence at Intertextile Shanghai, showcasing their apparel and yarn products.
• Square Textiles from Bangladesh presented a diverse range of yarns at Yarn Expo.
Kasturi Cotton: India's Fragrant Offering at Yarn Expo 2024
India's textile industry made a strong presence at the Yarn Expo Autumn 2024, showcasing a new initiative called Kasturi Cotton. Murali Balkrishna, Joint director, TEXPROCILexplained that the name refers to musk a product emanating from deer and widely used in the perfume industry. “But a deer does not notice the smell itself”. Murali added, “In a similar way, we think cotton fabrics of very high quality have always been present in the large volumes of the fibre that India exports and we have launched this initiative to bring more attention to it.”
Like always, the Pavilion was organised by the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), with Indo Industries, Padwa Worldwide, Texperts India, Niva Organics and other members exhibiting under the banner.
Pakistan Shines at Yarn Expo
Sixteen Pakistani exhibitors showcased their apparel and yarn products, garnering positive feedback even amidst challenging market conditions. Mahmood Textile was recognized for its ten years of participation at the event. Pakistani companies expressed optimism about future business prospects in the Chinese market.
Akmal, Marketing Manager at Mahmood Textile, shared his positive experience: “We’ve been attending ITSA & Yarn Expo for ten years, and it has always been exceptional. Messe Frankfurt Karachi’s support has been outstanding, and we look forward to continuing this successful partnership.” Adds, Adnan Butt, Director of Sales and Marketing at Yarana Textiles, “Despite the tough market conditions in China, we’ve been pleasantly surprised by the strong response from potential buyers. The level of interest has surpassed our expectations, and we are eager to further explore this promising market.”
Square Textiles, Bangladesh showcased diverse range of yarns
Square Textiles from Bangladesh participated showcasing a variety of yarns, including cotton yarn, polyester, organic yarn, and cotton-polyester blended yarns. International participation from both exhibitors and visitors was strong. Shah Muhamed Faisal, General Manager of Marketing at Square Textiles, expressing his views about the show said, 'We’re very optimistic that this platform will help us grow our business significantly”.
NEW PRODUCT LUNCHES
Lycra's Qira: Pioneering sustainable spandex from corn
Lycra Company unveiled its ground-breaking sustainable spandex, Qira, made from corn at Intertextile Shanghai. Qira, expected to launch in 2025, aims to cut carbon emissions by up to 44%. Lycra also highlighted other eco-friendly products and its partnership with Regina Miracle showcasing Lycra Adaptiv for inclusive sizing.“We have been thrilled to showcase our sustainable solutions,” said Jason Wang, Lycra Vice President, Asia.
Tencel embraces sustainable future with rebranding
Lenzing unveiled a fresh brand identity for its flagship lyocell fiber, Tencel, at Intertextile Shanghai. The new theme, "Nature, Future, Us," underscores Tencel's dedication to sustainability and innovation. This strategic move aims to solidify Tencel's position in the evolving textile landscape, assuring consumers of its commitment to quality, renewable resources, and traceability. “When consumers see the Tencel trademark, they can rest assured that they are choosing renewable, traceable fibres that guarantee quality and comfort,” said Kit Ping Au-Yeung, Lenzing’sExecutive Vice-President, Textile Business
Sustainable acrylic fibresfrom Thai Acrylic shine at Yarn Expo
TAF, an Aditya Birla Group company, showcased its sustainable acrylic fibersRadianza, Regel, and Pilbloc at Yarn Expo in Shanghai. These innovative fibers are designed to reduce environmental impact and offer high performance. TAF is committed to driving growth and innovation in the acrylic fiber industry through its focus on sustainability and quality."Our participation in Yarn Expo underscores our commitment to driving global growth and innovation within the acrylic fiber sector," said TuhinKulshreshtha, head of Marketing, Value Added Products, TAF.
Buyer endorse Yarn Expo Autumn 2024, another successful edition Buyers were impressed by the product range and international scope of the fair. Tang Wenting, a Knitting Designer from Meige Clothing ,Shanghai noted, "Yarn Expo has made significant strides in fostering international exchange, allowing me to better understand the needs of foreign buyers.
" Sudhir Kumar, a Business Development Manager from India, was particularly pleased with opportunities show provided, "Each time I visit this platform I find something new, such as functional yarns and fabrics with unique properties", he commented.
Concurrent fairs enhance business opportunities
Yarn Expo Autumn 2024 successfully marked another successful edition and facilitated the global eco-transition in the textile industry. The event was held alongside Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics, CHIC, and PH Value, creating synergy and maximizing business opportunities for exhibitors and buyers across the entire textile value chain.
With its diverse product offerings, increased international participation, and focus on sustainability, the fair served as a vital platform for industry players to connect, collaborate, and explore new opportunities.
In order to promote recyclability and transition towards a circular economy, the European textile industry needs to reduce its dependence on PFAS (polyfluorinated alkyl substances) in clothing and other textile products, says a study conducted by the European Environment Agency (EEA).
According to this study, textiles are a significant source of PFAS pollution in Europe as these chemicals are being widely used for waterproofing, stain resistance, and durability in various products such as clothing, carpets, and household items.
Highly persistent chemicals, PFAS accumulate in humans, animals, and the environment, leading to potential health and environmental risks. The EEA study outlines EU’s efforts to limit PFAS use within the region and how such restrictions could enhance the possibility of reusing and recycling textiles. This work is part of a broader report commissioned by the EEA and complements research by other EU bodies, such as the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA).
The study indicates,there are several sustainable alternatives to PFAS available in many textile categories. However, categories like personal protective equipment for firefighters lack such viable alternatives or have inconclusive data regarding their technical and economic feasibility, it adds.
PFAS in textiles not only pose environmental and health challenges but also hinder efforts to prolong the lifespan, reuse, and recycling of textiles. Most textile waste in the EU is currently incinerated, but it's unclear if incineration adequately destroys PFAS. The briefing emphasises on the need for developing new methods to identify and separate PFAS from textiles at the end of their life cycle, a practice rarely implemented today.
The capacity to eliminate PFAS at scale must be enhanced in the EU, the study emphasises. Additionally, unregulated waste management practices, such as uncontrolled landfilling and open burning, should be avoided to prevent further environmental harm. The study concludes by saying, transitioning to sustainable alternatives and improving waste management practices will be the key to reducing PFAS pollution and advancing a circular textile economy in Europe.
Kornit Digital, a global leader in sustainable digital textile production technologies, has announced an extended partnership with DO Apparel, a custom sportswear company specializing in garments for major league teams across basketball, football, and baseball. DO Apparel has further embraced Kornit's on-demand digital production as an alternative to traditional screen printing for its sports apparel, including jerseys, uniforms, and t-shirts.
Based in Livonia, Michigan, DO Apparel provides custom sportswear for organizations including Major League Baseball, the NBA, and the NFL. The company recently invested in Kornit’s Atlas Max Poly system to enhance its production capabilities across various fabrics, such as cotton and polyester. This system allows DO Apparel to create high-quality designs, including photorealistic images, neon patterns, and 3D effects on a wide range of polyester blends.
Ronen Samuel, CEO of Kornit Digital, emphasized the growing demand for medium-run, on-demand digital production, stating that traditional screen printing can no longer meet the custom requirements of today’s team apparel market. Matt McKae, COO of DO Apparel, praised the Atlas Max Poly system for its versatility and ability to handle medium-sized orders of 500 to 1,000 pieces, calling it a significant boost for the company’s operations.
Pakistan’s textile exports increased by 5.37 per cent in the first two months of the fiscal year 2024-25 (July–August), as per data by the Pakistan Bureau of Statistics (PBS). The country's textile exports rose to $2.92 billion during this period from $2.77 billion in the same months last year, reflecting the sector's resilience amid global economic uncertainties.
Growth in the Pakistan’s textile sector was fuelled by several key segments within the industry including knitwear whose exports rose by 7.15 per centto $820.59 million as against $765.80 million in the previous year. This rise could be attributed to a growing global demand for casual and comfortable clothing, a trend that has accelerated post-pandemic.
Pakistan’s bedware exports expanded by 7.61 per cent to $505 million compared to $469 million during the same period last year. The demand for Pakistani bedware remains strong, particularly in Europe and North America, where quality textile products are highly valued.
Additionally, towel exports increased by 6.87 per cent to $170.77 million as against $160 million in the previous fiscal year. This growth highlights the competitiveness of Pakistan’s textile industry, known for meeting high international standards in both quality and production.
The RMG segment posted the highest growth, with exports rising by 18 per cent to $658.50 million from $559 million last year. This reinforces Pakistan’s growing reputation as a significant player in the global apparel market. The country’s skilled labor and cost-effective manufacturing have enhanced its position in the international fashion industry.
Sri Lanka’s apparel industry is experiencing a rebound, with factories planning to expand their workforce by 10-15 per cent this year. The sector is also bracing for a potential surge in orders from Bangladesh, should conditions there deteriorate.
According to Yohan Lawrence, Spokesperson, Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF), garment exports from Sri Lanka grew by 4 per cent to $417.71 million in June 2024 compared to $401.63 million in June 2023. Garment exports in July increased by 3.29 per cent to $414.38 million from $401.18 million in the previous year. This boost in exports prompted larger factories to seek an additional 10-15 per cent workforce to manage the growing demand.
To meet this need, the industry plans to rehire and train staff who had voluntarily left, with an estimated three months required to bring them up to speed.
Hemantha Kumara, Secretary General, Sri Lanka Chamber of Garment Exporters, notes, the small and medium enterprise (SME) sector has witnessed a 120 per cent rise in orders, which is expected to last through early next year, driven by increased consumer demand in major markets like the US, UK, and Europe. This uptick is anticipated to bring a strong Christmas season for the sector. However, the SME sector faces a significant shortage of skilled and unskilled workers.
Currently, the SME sector employs around 30,000 people, though the workforce has declined by 30 per cent in recent years. Factories in this sector typically employ between 50 and 500 workers, depending on their size, and are actively recruiting to meet rising demand.
The International Cotton Association (ICA) has officially joined the Make the Label Count (MTLC) coalition to push for changes in the EU’s Product Environmental Footprint (PEF) framework. The ICA and MTLC argue that the PEF approach, which could underpin new EU legislation, overly simplifies sustainability claims and favors synthetic fibres over natural alternatives.
The ICA claims the PEF rules neglect key environmental factors like plastic waste, microplastics, and the broader ecological impact of fossil-fuel-based fibres. They also fail to recognize the biodegradable, renewable, and recyclable nature of natural fibres like cotton.
ICA President Kim Hanna emphasized the urgency of supporting MTLC’s campaign, warning that these rules could be implemented within three years. Hanna called on the cotton community to promote awareness of the legislation’s potential risks to natural fibres and encourage local associations to join the campaign.
ICA Bremen, the ICA’s joint venture company, has also joined the MTLC coalition, adding its voice to the movement for fair and credible labelling practices.
MTLC spokesperson Dalena White welcomed ICA’s support, stressing the importance of legislation addressing textile pollution at its source and ensuring a level playing field for all fibres, while safeguarding vulnerable communities.
The ICA was the first cotton organization to financially back MTLC’s campaign.
Global footwear and accessories brand Aldo has unveiled its latest collection that redefines the brand’s athletic fashion range. Known as theAldo Sport Club, this new collection introduces exclusive sneaker designs inspired by the brand’s iconic A/heart emblem. It reflects the brand’s rich heritage while underscoring its dedication to creative expression and innovation.
The collection embodies the growing fusion of sports and fashion culture. It captures the rising influence of athletes as fashion icons and sports as a lifestyle by offering a variety of athletic-inspired footwear designed for versatility, blending vintage design with modern craftsmanship.
At the heart of the Aldo Sport Club’s Sport Heritage collection are this season’s most coveted silhouettes, including retro-inspired sneakers that balance timeless elegance with athletic influence. The highlight of the collection is the Motion X sneaker, engineered for individuals on the move. It features a shock-absorbing sole for optimal rebound, breathable engineered knits, and the lightweight comfort of Aldo’s Pillow Walk cushioning technology.
Beyond sneakers, the collection extends to other athletic-inspired footwear, ideal for those seeking both style and functionality in their everyday wardrobe. The Aldo Sport Club and Sport Heritage collection is available in stores and online at aldoshoes.in.
In a memorandum addressed to Nirmala Sitharaman, Union Finance Minister, the Tiruppur Exporters' Association (TEA) urged for an introduction of a new version of the production-linked incentive (PLI) scheme, referred to as PLI 2.0, for the textile industry. The association also put forth several other proposals to strengthen the sector.
The current PLI scheme largely favors large textile units, particularly those in the manmade fibre segment, TEA pointed out. To address this, the requirement for minimum capital investment t needs to be lowered and the scheme to include cotton-based industries broadened to offer significant support to small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), it added.
Additionally, TEA called for a one-year extension of the Interest Equalisation Scheme (IES) to all units in the sector. The IES, which was recently extended by two months from its original expiration on June 30, 2024, currently applies to rupee credit for pre- and post-shipment for micro, small, and medium enterprises (MSMEs). TEA believes, extending this scheme for a full year would provide much-needed financial relief to the industry.
Another pressing issue raised by TEA is the delay in importing woven labels due to the Customs Department's Compulsory Compliance Requirements (CCRs). Importers are facing delays of five to seven days, as Customs requires group sample testing in laboratories, disregarding lab reports from shippers or external reports from the country of origin. These delaysare disrupting export schedules, the association warned.
In a related move, the South India Hosiery Manufacturers Association (SIHMA) also proposed additional recommendations to aid the textile industry. These include extending capital subsidies to units investing in new machinery and the establishment of a Knitwear Board to support garment producers in Tiruppur. SIHMA also called for measures to regulate garment imports from Bangladesh, citing the adverse impact on smaller local manufacturers
The National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) is actively promoting the use of natural dyes among its registered handloom weavers across the country, according to its Rita Prem Hemrajani, Managing Director.
In FY 2022-23, NHDC supplied yarn, dyes, and chemicals worth Rs 1,150 crore, a figure expected to rise to Rs 1,200 crore this year. The Corporation provides yarn to nearly five lakh weavers, with 50 per cent of them being individual weavers and the remaining part of various handloom societies.
This year, NHDC is organising workshops for weavers to encourage the use of natural dyes and encourage its adoption by all handloom societies, states Hemrajani.
To support this initiative, NHDC has partnered with two textile mills; one in Coimbatore and another in Salem to produce yarn dyed with natural dyes. It has also sent samples of the dyed yarn, ranging from 20s to 40s count to handloom societies for evaluation. Certain societies in Odisha and West Bengal, which prefer high-count yarns, have expressed interest, and the mills are currently conducting trials. NHDC is also seeking additional suppliers to meet the growing demand, adds Hemrajani.
