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Forum for the Future, along with several industry partners which form the Cotton 2040 coalition have launched a new online guide to facilitate increase in sustainable cotton sourcing. The online guide – CottonUP -- provides accessible delivery, reduces the time and resources necessary for brands to investigate and understand which type of cotton to source from which supplier.
The project also addresses a long-standing need in the industry for clarity around cotton sourcing options by providing brands and retailers with the resources to help them go further, faster. Sustainability non-profit Forum for the Future took the lead on the project, with funding from the C&A Foundation.
The Cotton 2040 coalition behind this new industry tool comprises brands and retailers, industry standards bodies, and industry-specific initiatives. M&S, Target and Aditya Birla Fashion Retail make up the brand contingent, with BCI and Cotton Made in Africa (CMiA) and Fair-trade amongst the group of industry organisations and initiatives which form the coalition.
"While there’s a growing risk that supply chain and CSR managers are faced with, they also need to address other aspects of their businesses that are adversely impacted by loss of control of the supply chain. These include potential loss in market share, brand reputation, stolen IP, liability to recall, potential legal and accounting costs, and even criminal action. However, it seems that necessary measures are now being taken as more than 280 brands and retailers have signed a ‘Company Pledge Against Forced Labor in the Cotton Sector of Uzbekistan’. The pledge was initiated by the Responsible Sourcing Network, an organization dedicated to ending human rights abuse associated with materials in everyday products, and Cotton Campaign, a coalition of organizations aimed at eradicating forced labor in cotton production.
Human Rights First recent survey suspects that more than $140 billion worth of goods suspected of being made by forced labor enters the US market each year. In Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, two of the largest exporters of cotton, forced labour organized on a mass scale demands engagement by up to one million people and possibly more during pick seasons. Another report by a media agency found that much of the cotton produced in Uzbekistan is missing labels or has labels with misleading statements of origin. This provides the opportunity for cotton obtained through human rights abuse to enter manufacturing supply chains often unwittingly.
While there’s a growing risk that supply chain and CSR managers are faced with, they also need to address other aspects of their businesses that are adversely impacted by loss of control of the supply chain. These include potential loss in market share, brand reputation, stolen IP, liability to recall, potential legal and accounting costs, and even criminal action. However, it seems that necessary measures are now being taken as more than 280 brands and retailers have signed a ‘Company Pledge Against Forced Labor in the Cotton Sector of Uzbekistan’. The pledge was initiated by the Responsible Sourcing Network, an organization dedicated to ending human rights abuse associated with materials in everyday products, and Cotton Campaign, a coalition of organizations aimed at eradicating forced labor in cotton production. Companies that signed the pledge committed not to knowingly sourcing cotton from Uzbekistan. Another pledge is soliciting signees for the same commitment against the problem in Turkmenistan.
The repercussions
Going by prevailing scenario, the US government recently banned import of goods made with Turkmenistan cotton under a law prohibiting import of 
goods made with forced labour. There are chances that the government might ban cotton exports from Uzbekistan too. In order to get the situation in control, a Cotton Campaign delegation interacted with Uzbek officials and guided them towards reforms process. Recommended actions include legal and policy reforms, a time-bound plan to dismantle the structural underpinnings of the forced labor system, and accountability mechanisms.
Today it’s not just the NGOs who are stern against forced labour, consumers are becoming increasingly conscious about unethically-produced cotton and are putting pressure on the industry with their most powerful asset, their pocketbooks. Roughly three in five Americans (61 per cent) responding to a survey said that if they discovered a brand made their bedding/clothing products from raw cotton that was picked by child/forced labourers, they wouldn’t buy it.
Tech to the rescue
There are technologies to verify the origin of the cotton and its path throughout the supply chain. Fibre Forward traceability with DNA uses DNA molecular tracers and applies them onto the cotton fibre itself. Portable DNA testing systems can be installed on-site at a mill or at the gin for quality control purposes. Cotton genotyping uses natural biomarkers that designate the DNA fingerprint of the cotton species, some of which may be associated with a geographic region. Additionally, there are blockchain platforms, which provide open transparency across transactions between supply chain partners. It is essential, however, to ensure the initial data entered into distributed ledgers comes from forensically verified (such as with DNA methods) sources. Otherwise, blockchains may be inadvertently used to propagate mis-information.
"As per Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) they had urged many large international brands that source from Shahi to pressure the company into taking appropriate action. But the brands continued to work with the company, even though they haven’t taken steps to redress the situation at the Unit 8. These brands include the four that the specific factory was producing for directly, and more than a dozen others that Shahi supplies through other facilities: American Eagle, C&A, Children’s Place, Decathlon, Gap, Inditex (owner of Zara), Marks & Spencer, Primark, Puma, PVH Corp. (owner of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger), Tesco, Uniqlo, VF Corp. (owner of Vans and others), and Walmart."
Fast fashion retailers like H&M, Abercrombie & Fitch, Columbia Sportswear, and Benetton, are reportedly ignoring incidence of violence and other abuses happening at their sourcing factories. One incident that has spurred speculation is of a Bengaluru factory owned by Shahi Exports. Here the mangers brutally repressed attempts by workers to unionise and stifled an increase in workers’ wages.
As per Worker Rights Consortium (WRC) they had urged many large international brands that source from Shahi to pressure the company into taking appropriate action. But the brands continued to work with the company, even though they haven’t taken steps to redress the situation at the Unit 8. These brands include the four that the specific factory was producing for directly, and more than a dozen others that Shahi supplies through other facilities: American Eagle, C&A, Children’s Place, Decathlon, Gap, Inditex (owner of Zara), Marks & Spencer, Primark, Puma, PVH Corp. (owner of Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger), Tesco, Uniqlo, VF Corp. (owner of Vans and others), and Walmart.
Scott Nova, Executive Director, WRC, points out Shahi’s customers are leading brands. All have policies supposedly prohibiting physical and verbal abuse of workers and protecting the right to unionise. This case reflects that such companies do not take their own human rights commitments seriously. As a result, neither do their suppliers.
Companies’ reactions
Columbia Sportswear spokesperson reacted to and said Shahi management should take immediate action to address the situation, including: reinstating
suspended workers, paying medical expenses of workers, returning any personal property of workers, engage in constructive and meaningful engagement with the union, and discipline any employees found to have engaged in violence or acts of discrimination. Similarly, H&M spokesperson asserted it has an ongoing dialogue with factory management and the worker representatives, who are supported by the global trade union IndustriALL. It is doing its best to facilitate a dialogue between the parties involved to get to a solution, as well as to give the supplier the right stimulus to set up a different approach to industrial relations and strengthen their policies.
As per American Eagle’s statement it took the concerns raised by WRC seriously and has been in communication with the factory to discuss their response. Its goal is to create strong, supportive relationships with its factory partners and work collaboratively to improve working conditions in its supply chain. Gap Inc.’s Code of Vendor Conduct (COVC) expressly prohibits any efforts to undermine workers right to freedom of association, and any harassment or abuse. While Gap Inc. has never had any production in Shahi’s Unit 8, it does work with Shahi in other facilities, and as such expect their company to fully abide by their ethical sourcing standards and to respect the rights of workers.
To push the development forward when it comes to workplace dialogue and industrial relations, H&M group signed a Global Framework Agreement, GFA, with the global trade union IndustriALL and the Swedish Trade Union IF Metall in 2015. Apart from acting as a framework for local capacity building, this has also proved to be a good platform to engage around dispute resolutions.
Patagonia is reintroducing wool into its product range with fresh standards and certifications. The company’s wool is now certified as per Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), from farm to finished product. In addition, its key wool partners also meet the stringent requirements outlined in the Patagonia Wool Standard (PWS). The company, as a part of its wider responsibly sourced wool strategy, has worked with sheep farmers and its manufacturing supply chain to obtain certification to the RWS.
In addition, to ensure a “best in class” supply chain assurance from farm to finished product, Patagonia obtained certification for its own brand. Through its diligence, the company was able to find wool suppliers willing to provide visibility to their farms and guarantee the traceability of the wool through the supply chain. It believes that its requirements have challenged farmers to change long-held wool ranching practices.
World T-shirt exports were up 4.3 per cent in 2017; year-over-year, value of globally exported T-shirts rose 1.2 per cent between 2016-17. Asian countries accounted for the highest dollar worth of exported T-shirts (inclusive of all materials) during 2017 and had a 56.7 per cent share of worldwide exports. Bangladesh was the top supplier of cotton T-shirts in 2017. It had a 18.3 per cent share in the global supply of cotton T-shirts. India’s share was 4.4 per cent.
China was second in followed by Turkey and Germany. India bagged the fifth position. As for exports of T-shirts (cotton as well as synthetic), Bangladesh ranked second, behind China. India stood fifth. Bangladesh is known as a sourcing hub for cotton made T-shirts.
While economically mature markets of the US, Canada, and Western Europe are close to their saturation point in terms of T-shirt consumption, emerging economies, such as China, India, Russia, and Brazil, are far from saturated. They share a few similar characteristics, including a rising population, an improved economic situation, rising disposable incomes, and urbanization. Despite the fact that China remains a key global centre for the production of T-shirts, production is gradually shifting to other countries in Asia.
American brands in China face are facing a threat from local brands offering innovative products at lower costs. Brands like Apple, Starbucks and Procter & Gamble's Pampers are being challenged by local brands, potential threat to the hundreds of billions of dollars US firms make in China. Analysts from Bain and Kantar say, local brands usurped almost three-quarters of China's 639 billion yuan ($97 billion) market for FMCG - a category that includes items like soft drinks and shampoo - last year, up from two-thirds in 2013.
US products like Pampers, Colgate toothpaste and Mead Johnson infant formula saw their market share drop around 10 percentage points in the past five years. The data was based on a survey of 40,000 urban households. Chinese brands like SeeYoung, offering a popular silicon-free shampoo, and Pechoin, a maker of skincare products that plays up local ingredients, gained rapidly.
In case of a full-scale trade war, average tariffs could rise to as high as 30 per cent for American exporters, 35 per cent for the European Union and 40 per cent for Chinese exporters. Bangladeshi exporters may face an average tariff of over 40 per cent. The country currently enjoys around three per cent tariff on an average in the global market.
Exporters of India and Pakistan would face tariffs of 31.70 per cent and 40 per cent respectively. The tariff for Sri Lanka would be around 47 per cent. Bangladesh already faces a 15 per cent average tariff in the US market. In the EU, the country has tariff-free market access.
Least Developed Countries including Bangladesh will continue to enjoy tariff-free access to different developed countries for the time being. These countries may face higher tariffs only if there is an all-out trade war where every country will increase its tariff. However, the increased tariffs are calculated under the assumption that all countries would engage in a trade war and set tariffs to their optimal mercantilist levels.
The US is imposing high tariff on the imports of products it thinks should get protection. But other countries are also retaliating.
The government is planning to form a Tk 10,000 crore special fund, similar to Export Development Fund, to provide low cost loans to jute industry and regain its past glory. Bangladesh Bank would be assigned to manage the funds where the loans will be disbursed at 5 per cent interest and half of the interest payments would come from the state coffers as subsidy.
A panel headed by Md Mahmudul Hassan, Chairman, Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation (BJMC) has prepared the draft for the Jute Sector Development Fund. As per the draft, loan defaulters will not be eligible for applying for fresh loans. The draft policy targets providing the ailing sector with opportunities similar to what garment and leather goods industries enjoy.
According to the association, around 2 lakh people work in 176 public and private jute mills, which process two thirds of the country's annual jute production of 14 lakh tons of this 8.36 lakh tons are exported and the rest consumed locally.
Spain’s textile and apparel imports have increased by six per cent during the last five years. Spain is the world’s sixth largest apparel importer. Apparel is the largest imported category in apparel and textile making up 78 per cent, followed by manmade textiles, cotton textiles and others with a share of 10 per cent, eight per cent and three per cent respectively.
China is the largest textile and apparel supplier to Spain, with a 21 per cent share of Spain’s imports, followed by Bangladesh and Turkey with a share of 11 per cent each. India’s exports to Spain have grown at three per cent year on year. India is the seventh largest supplier of textile and apparel products to Spain. Apparel is the largest category, with a share of 77 per cent in India’s textile and apparel exports to Spain. This is followed by cotton textiles and manmade textiles having a share of 13 per cent and six per cent respectively.
Countries like Bangladesh and Turkey have increased their share in Spain’s textile and apparel imports over the last few years, owing to their market access arrangements with the European Union. The Spanish apparel industry is expanding fast with the growth of fast fashion brands like Zara and other clothing retailers like Desigual and Mango.
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