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Macpi India launched innovative finishers for denim which are selling out quickly. With casual jackets being in trend, they have also launched finishers for casual jackets, crafted with various fabrics. Mohanti Basanta Kumar, Director (Sales), sees high potential for his products and business is growing exponentially, not only for Macpi India but also the industry as a whole. And Mohanti expects the trend to continue for next five years.
Macpi was exhibiting at the recent Garment Technology Expo (GTE) held in Delhi. Speaking to Fashionatingworld Mohanti says, “We import machinery from Italy and China and have two manufacturing facilities in Italy and one in China. The company is based in Italy and this is our 14th year in India.” Mohanti avers this is the 20th GTE for the company. “We have seen a change in the manner with which clients deal with us at the fair. Earlier, they would come and strike deals to get discounts now they come to our office and expect significant discounts.” He points out GTE serves the purpose of meeting clients/potential clients in huge numbers at one niche platform. Hence, it saves efforts, time and energy. “We even meet clients from small towns who would not otherwise get a chance to review our range.” Mohanti says India is undergoing a transition which is good for the country. “We are optimistic about reforms as the market is constantly seeing improvement and that is a good sign for the economy.” Finishing industry undergoing change
Discussing the finishing sector he says, “There has been a marked improvement in garment finishes. We opened our office in 2004 and have a presence for over 30 years. Earlier people would ask only for vacuum and ironing tables but today, everybody is looking at automated dressing machines amongst others. This move towards automation indicates the Indian garment sector is gradually becoming more productive and quality-oriented. Earlier, with manual operations, quality was good but lacked productivity.”
Mohanti sees a promising domestic market with many opportunities, given the scale, size and population of the country. “If one looks at exports, countries like India and Bangladesh may hope for good growth in the garmenting sector, however, China is moving towards high engineered items.” The market is still not mature. “We lack discipline and that is our drawback. We need to resolve exporter’s issues and labour laws for the well-being of the industry.”
Mohanti feels competition is fierce but it helps us work harder, “Now, we are focusing mainly on finishing and fusing machines. Innovation and product development has been taken on a priority. The market is still nascent in India. Our strength lies in finishing and we are doing an exceptional job in that area,” he concludes.
Lectra has appointed Holger Max-Lang as Managing Director of Lectra Central & Eastern Europe region, Russia. Holger’s role is to support fashion & apparel, automotive and furniture companies in the region as they embrace Industry 4.0. Anchored in the digitalisation of industrial processes, from design to production, Industry 4.0 is redefining how factories are organised; smart and connected, they are driving the value chain, propelling a new digitalized lifecycle for products.
Daniel Harari, Chairman and CEO, Lectra explains, “The transformation to Industry 4.0 is in full swing: the Industrial Internet of Things, Software as a Service (SaaS), cloud technology, data analyses and data exploitation have become key.”
Central & Eastern Europe and Russia is strategic for Lectra, offering strong potential in the Group’s main market sectors due largely to: A strong automotive industry; a dynamic furniture industry, especially in Germany and Poland; and a close connection between fashion brands in Germany, Austria, Switzerland and suppliers in Eastern Europe.
Working for Lectra for over 15 years, Holger has a deep experience and knowledge of Lectra’s DNA and is in a strong position to support customers in the digitalisation of their processes. “Lectra is very well-positioned to support our customers in their transformation,“ says Holger.
Following marketing and sales positions in the IT and automotive industry sectors, Holger joined Lectra Germany in September 2002 as a salesperson for automotive accounts. He held diverse sales’ roles in the region, including the position of Sales Manager for all Lectra markets in Central & Eastern Europe region, Russia. Since September 2017 Holger has held the role of Business Development Director, Automotive, with the responsibility to develop the leather cutting activity worldwide.
Kering has been named as the world’s most sustainable textile, apparel and luxury goods corporation, as per the Corporate Knights’ Global 100 index published at the World Economic Forum in Davos today. This marks the third consecutive year that Kering has been included in the ranking, placed 1st within its own industry and 47th overall within the 2018 Global 100 index.
Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability Officer and Head of international institutional affairs of Kering says, “A criterion in all business decisions, traversing all departments and areas of our supply chain, we consider sustainability to be the Kering seal of savoir-faire. Inclusion in Corporate Knights’ 2018 Global 100, as the most sustainable corporation in the textile, apparel and luxury sector, is thus truly an honour for Kering, and a source of motivation to continue our pursuit of a more sustainable luxury.” The Corporate Knights’ Global 100 is recognised as the joint best index in the world, as per the Branding Institute, for its relevance, insight, trustworthiness and convincing methodology. The index is devised from a starting universe of 7,425 listed companies which represents a market capitalisation of over $2 billion on October 1, 2017.
A global Luxury group, Kering develops an ensemble of luxury houses in fashion, leather goods, jewellery and watches: Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Brioni, Christopher Kane, McQ, Stella McCartney, Tomas Maier, Boucheron, Dodo, Girard-Perregaux, Pomellato, Qeelin and Ulysse Nardin. Kering is also the force behind sport and lifestyle brands Puma, Volcom and Cobra. The group generated revenue of €12.385 billion in 2016 and had over 40,000 employees.
IndustriALL Global Union and UNI Global Union have reached a $2.3 million settlement with a multinational apparel brand to resolve life-threatening workplace hazards. The settlement, reached through an arbitration process under the legally-binding Bangladesh Accord for Fire and Building Safety, represents one of the largest payments made by a brand to remedy workplace dangers in its supply chain.
The brand, under the terms of the settlement, has agreed to pay $2 million towards remediation of more than 150 garment factories in Bangladesh. The apparel maker will contribute a further $3,00,000 in IndustriALL and UNIs joint Supply Chain Worker Support Fund that was established to support the work of the global unions to improve pay and conditions for workers in global supply chains.
The global unions brought the case to the Permanent Court of Arbitration arguing that the brand did not require its factories to remedy timely hazards leaving thousands of workers in dangerous conditions. The unions also charged that the brand did not ensure that it was financially feasible for its factories to fix on-going safety issues, as required by the Accord. At the time of the case’s filing in October 2016, none of the brand’s known supplier factories had completed the required remediation and all of them had at least one high risk safety hazard which had not been fixed. These included factories lacking fire alarm and sprinkler systems, lacking fire doors and not separating flammable materials from the factories’ boilers.
The unions’ claim for arbitration urged several of the brand’s contracted factories towards better progress—one went from a remediation rate of around 50 per cent in October 2016 to over 90 per cent in October 2017. However, many other factories supplying the brand continue to stagger far behind, with remediation rates hovering near 50 per cent and serious structural and fire safety issues left unresolved. All necessary safety improvements need to be completed by the Accord’s expiration in May 2018.
With margins squeezed in the past couple of quarters owing to dwindling yarn exports and excess spinning capacity the cotton yarn industry is pinning its hopes on a fall in raw material (cotton) prices. Cotton spinners pin hopes on demand uptick to improve margins. According to CRISIL, among other issues, disruptions stemming from the roll-out of the GST took a toll on margins.
Yarn spinners say, margins were hit when the price of cotton went up, leading to lower demand from fabric and garment manufacturers, as well as dwindling yarn exports. They are hoping margins will improve in the last quarter of the current fiscal year on the back of an uptick in demand and improved yarn exports. However, in the interim, the industry is also expected to see a bumper crop, which could bring down cotton prices to some extent.
According to CRISIL, margins fell to a 20-quarter low in the second quarter of 2017-18.It further stated that the second quarter of fiscal 2018 was the least profitable in five years for spinners, or cotton yarn mills. Spinning units such as Chiripal Group and Balkrishna Textiles are hoping increased arrivals might bring down cotton prices.
Crisil has pointed towards a sharp increase in cotton production, expected at 37.5 million bales, in cotton season (CS) 2017-18 which would be a shot in the arm for spinners in the last two quarters of this fiscal year. It could frustrate further drop in margins. Also, demand normalisation after demonetisation and goods and services tax- or GST-led disruptions would improve utilisation.
However, the research firm is of the view that the Ebitda margin profile is different for large organised players owing to efficient procurement practices as well as benefits accruing from economies of scale.
Brunello Cucinelli, the Italian fashion businessman owner of the high-end label he founded 40 years ago, has sold 6 per cent stake in the fashion company and raised about €100 million for his family’s charitable foundation. Through his company Fedone Srl, Brunello Cucinelli sold over four million shares of the luxury group at €26 a share, for a total of around €100million.
Cucinelli reportedly said he and his family will continue to remain majority shareholders of the company but he wanted to raise funds from the share sale to finance his “life-long project of restoration” in his local community. To put it in a nutshell, he will invest further in what the family calls “humanist capitalism.” After the share sale, Brunello Cuccinelli, his wife, and two daughters will remain majority shareholder, with 51 per cent of the company’s equity. Fidelity with a 10 per cent stake, and OppenheimerFunds — one of the world's most reputable investment firms — with a 5 per cent stake, are the other largest shareholders. Through the share placement, he wanted to separate the family’s philanthropic activities from the business for the long term. The family had reached the decision as part of a wider discussion over strategy “for the next 15, 30, 40 years”, he added.
The Egyptian Textile Export Council says the country’s textile and spinning exports increased 6 per cent in 2017, to touch $832 million as against $783 million in 2016. As per Minister of Trade and Industry Tarek Kabil Egypt will establish the largest textile and garment city in Egypt on an area of 3.1m sq m in that city. The city will incorporate 568 factories with a paid-up capital of $2 billion —infused over seven years — 87 per cent of which will come from foreign investments and 13 per cent from local investments.
Kabil announced the textile and garment city will provide up to 1,60,000 direct job opportunities, with a total production value of $9bn per year. Kabil said, “This new city will include schools for training with the latest technology in the spinning and textile industry.” The General Authority for Investment and Free Zones earlier announced, “Egypt is home to the only fully integrated textiles industry in the Middle East, where the entire production process is carried out in Egypt, starting from the cultivation of cotton and ending with the production of yarns, fabrics and ready-made garments, carried out domestically.”
The Garment Technology Expo (GTE) 2018, held from January 19 to 22 at NSIC Complex, New Delhi, concluded on a positive note for both visitors and technology suppliers who displayed latest innovations.
On Day 4, despite being the start of the week, people came in huge numbers to make the 26th edition of the GTE a huge success. Industry leaders including G S Madan, M D, Madan Trading Company, Delhi; domestic brand and manufacturer Harjot Takkar, Director, Sahib Textiles (Tacfab), Sonepat; Consultant Pooja Makhija, Director, Fashion Futures, Delhi; and pattern services provider Shri Niwas Sharma, Director, Apparel Solutions, Delhi were present.
G S Madan explored automation in all segments from cutting to stitching and finishing, “As the industry is still on oxygen, the only way to survive is to adopt automation as much as possible so that we can reduce workforce and minimise cost,” he observed.
Technical and PD teams of various companies also shared upcoming developments. Nikita Gupta, Merchandise Manager, Sreepriya Exports, Kolkata opined her company is installing CAD systems and has recently started working on the lean project to boost efficiency. The key attraction at the fair was technology, the display of machine-to-machine communication systems powered by several tech companies like Juki, Jack, Hikari, Duerkopp Adler and Brother.
The display of Pick and Place heat seal machine by Cheran was much appreciated. The machine reduces the time of tag attachment in the garment by replacing conventional stitching with automatic sticker attachment. ‘Shirt Automation’ by Italian pioneer MAICA drew crowds at its stall. MAICA displayed ‘UAM 04’, an automatic placket attachment machine.
Digital printing was showcased by India-based ColorJet, which presented digital printer TXF at the fair. The printer offers speed of up to 24 sq. mt. per hour and can achieve print resolutions of up to 1,440 DPI. The company has ambitious plans in place to expand in apparel manufacturing hubs like Bangladesh and Vietnam. And as Smarth Bansal, Brand Manager, Colorjet points explained, “India is already our stronghold and now we are looking to capitalise on the lucrative opportunities in other emerging countries. We are looking to collaborate with local partners, especially in Vietnam.”
Aimed at increasing productivity, efficiency and creating an ecosystem of smart factories in India, the 26th Garment Technology Expo 2018, attracted about 350 companies and more than 21,000 visitors. The annual Garment Technology Expo’s is the flagship event of GTE New Delhi and is held in spring. This is Indian subcontinent’s largest show for apparel technology.
But what was really a star attraction in this edition was the ‘Apparel 4.0’ conference held on the second day of GTE. ‘Apparel 4.0’ is an interpretation and application of Industrial Revolution 4.0 in the apparel technology and apparel manufacturing sectors across the supply chain. The day-long conference was jointly organised by DFU Publications was aimed at educating the industry on how Apparel 4.0 is shaping and transforming the global fashion and apparel business. The discussions got a tremendous response and appreciation from industry stakeholders.
The conference was attended by distinguished stakeholders and experts from the industry who discussed major challenges the industry is facing in today's digital marketplace and how to identify them and what practical steps companies can take to digitize their value chain. H KL Magu, Chairman, AEPC, was the chief guest and inaugurated the conference in the presence of Zhang Min, Chairman, ShangGong Group, who also was the guest of honour. The opening remarks were offered by Sanjay Chawla, Founder, DFU Publications & FashionatingWorld. Speaking on the occasion, HKL Magu, spoke about the possibilities of adapting Apparel 4.0 in India especially with focus on export and what steps the Indian garmenting sector can take to be competitive in the global space.
Other well known experts who spoke on the occasion were: Mike Fralix, President and CEO, TC2, USA, Dietrich Eichoff, CEO & Chairman, Duerkopp Adler, Germany, Samath Fernando, CIO, Hirdaramani Group ,Sri Lanka , Darlie Koshy, Director General , ATDC, Prabir Jana, Head Research, NIFT Delhi and Ricky Sahni , Organiser GTE, among others.
Mike Fralix spoke on how millennials are disrupting the fashion supply chain, and technology is leading the Apparel 4,0; the introduction of sewbots and the resurgence of robotic systems in apparel making. Fralix also talked about the big shift taking place in the global garmenting market and how India being a resourceful country can take advantage of rising demand in the domestic and international market. Prabir Jana spoke on how the global apparel industry is moving fast towards adapting Apparel 4.0 and how China is emerging among the frontrunners. China over the years has become one of the fastest adapters of technology and the factory ecosystem is changing fast in the country.
Samath Fernando, stressed on the need of using cutting edge technology and how being technological sound can bring a big transformation in the entire sector. He also spoke on the efforts made by him towards technological improvement in his group and across Sri Lanka.
A panel discussion on Opportunities and Challenges for implementation of Apparel 4.0 in India was also a part of the conference. Rajesh Bheda of RBC, was the moderator with Darlie Koshy, DG, ATDC as session chairman, Raja N Shanmugam, TEA President, J D Giri, Shahi Exports, Sudhir Sekhri, GEA, R C Kesar, OGTC, Gunish Jain, Royal Datamatic, Vinod Aiyer, Fortuna Colours among the panellists. The discussions revolved around digitalization of apparel manufacturing processes, from design to production, creating a new organization and factory ecosystems, increasing flexible with optimized resources and smart factories.
Italian entrepreneur Silvio Albini, 61, was found dead unexpectedly in his house in Bergamo. His death was probably due to a stroke. Albini managed Cotonoficio Albini — the fine quality shirting manufacturing company that employs over 1,400 people and registers over €147 million in annual sales.
His company, founded in 1876, celebrated its 140thanniversary in 2016 and is led today by the fifth generation of his family.
The entrepreneur,who had been president of the Italian textile show Milano Unica and vice president of the Bergamo association of entrepreneurs, strongly believed in the importance of promoting and supporting Made in Italy products.
He had recently started a series of initiatives targeted at expanding his group’s presence in the smart casual segment through its own Albiate 1830 company and a collaboration project started with Candiani Denim designed by Matias Sandoval.
