FW
Surat in Gujarat is one of the largest man-made fabric (MMF) industries in India and a leading supplier to the southern states. However, recent heavy rains and flood situation in the states of Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu adversely impacted the business prospects since most of the orders getting cancelled.
The buyers in Tamil Nadu source saris and dress materials and other polyester fabrics for Pongal festival celebrated on January 14 in the southern states every year. The orders are placed after the end of Diwali festival. Industry estimates suggest that around 25 per cent of traders in MMF wholesale market from Surat supply fabrics, including saris and dress materials to the southern states of Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh around October-November every year.
According to the Chairman of textile committee of Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry Devkishan Manghani, Chennai being lead importer of polyester fabrics from Surat, wholesale traders from the region were looking forward to their yearly business deals however heavy rains have made a negative impact leaving them worried about the business.
There are over 65,000 textile shops located in some 150-odd textile markets in Surat. The daily turnover of the textile goods is said to be around Rs 110 crores and weak demand from the southern states has led to a decline in pre-Diwali business of almost 35 per cent.
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The Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) among 12 countries led by the US, along with Canada, Mexico, Peru, Chile, Australia, and New Zealand, encompasses not only tariff reductions for trade in goods among members but also includes eliminating barriers to investments and services trade. TPP members account for 40 per cent of Thailand’s total trade and 45 per cent of foreign direct investments (FDI) annually. Thailand has free-trade agreements (FTAs) with most of the 12 countries except the US, Canada, and Mexico.
FDI from Canada and Mexico comprise less than 2 percent of Thailand’s total FDI annually and exports to Canada and Mexico account for less than 1 percent of. Thailand’s total exports come from the US, is 8 percent and direct investment in the country is 8 percent annually. The largest potential impact from TPP the agreement on Thailand is greater competition in the US market from TPP members.
As tariffs charged on Thai products will be higher than on those from TPP members, exporters are concerned that Thai exports to the US will be less price-attractive than similar products from member countries. When the TPP takes effect, there will probably be a negative effect on Thai exports of garments and certain agricultural products to the US. Currently, key garment exports from Thailand to the US, are charged tariff rates of 5.7 to 21.6 percent.
Businesses in Thailand have another concern the country will be a less attractive destination for FDI from US companies compared to Vietnam or Malaysia. This could deter some new investments from the US to member countries instead of Thailand as investment protection among TPP member countries will be stronger.
At the seasonal novelties of exhibitors presented at the Californian-inspired Trends Area of the last edition of Denim Première Vision, there was much contemplation on what’s trending during spring/summer 2017. The season will see vivid colours find their way back into collections while floral and tropical motifs in jeans too make a comeback. This is in contrast to the previous summer season dominated by dark shades and decent silhouettes. The key inspiration for 217 trends is the summer festivals and fashion lifestyle around.
Pastels will be in, with the colour intensity of the jeans following pastel shades of light green, pink and blue embellished sometimes with interesting coatings. Patched jeans and denim vests in mid to dark blue hues are also likely to be a big thing, especially due to customisation and DIY possibilities that the trend might offer to consumers.
Texturing will be in vogue and textile surfaces, fruit of geometrical shapes, will all be in demand. Besides, it’s predicted that featherweight denims, with little shrinking, high shape recovery properties and a super soft touch will be in. These were present all over the fair as well. Floral and palm print jeans, degraded and blend jeans imitating the look of sea waves with different tonalities of blue is set to be a part of the denim collections as well.
Along with pastels, sprayed denims with a worn-out look and various earth tones, especially camel, will be prominent during spring/summer ’17. A new twist to distressed denim is to superimpose it over denim patches stitched under the garment with skin remaining out of sight and frayed edges on legs, sleeves and pocket rivets will be in trend.
Bangladesh Technical Education Board, the statutory authority for quality assurance and certification for Technical and Vocational Education and Training has accredited the Centre of Excellence for Bangladesh Apparel Industry (CEBAI) as a Registered Training Organization (RTO). Swedish retailer H&M, the Swedish government, the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the ILO, in a joint effort established the CEBAI late last year. Its role is to improve the quality of work and productivity in RMG factories and enable workers to have their skills formally recognised through implementation of certified training within the national skills development policy (NSDP) of Bangladesh.
ILO County Director for Bangladesh, Srinivas Reddy said ILO considers CEBAI as an important new institution driven by the industry to play a valuable role in meeting the changing needs of Bangladesh RMG sector as it seeks to move up the value chain. However, at the same time it helps RMG workers, particularly women, improve their skills, incomes and gain skills certification, he added.
The National Technical and Vocational Qualification Framework (NTVQF), which is based on competency based training methodology, would be the base CEBAI’s training courses, because of the RTO certification. Besides, instructors, industry trainers and assessors will be trained and get certification through CEBAI. Also, women will benefit the most and there is a target of 5 percent for those with disabilities too, benefitting them as well.
At ITMA Milan 2015. Stäubli offered an important product portfolio to weavers. Weavers can orchestrate the creation of the highest-quality textiles for a wide range of applications through this portfolio. Stäubli showcased a selection of its most modern products from its range of textile machinery, which included cam motions, dobbies, electronic Jacquard machines with harnesses, weaving preparation systems with automatic warp drawing in, and warp-tying machines.
Stäubli presented a new weaving system along with recently developed and exclusive carpet samples produced on the ALPHA 400 and 500 carpet weaving machines, with its business unit ‘Schönherr carpet systems’. In a separate booth, it also exhibited its DEIMO knitting solutions that had state-of-the-art electronic drives and control solutions predominantly for textile machines, including weaving and knitting applications.
A variety of Jacquard fabrics is being produced by Stäubli this year on three weaving machines. It demonstrated the production of African damask, a high-quality Jacquard fabric made of 100 percent cotton, on the world’s most modern Jacquard machine, the new type SX, operating at a rate of over 1,000 weft insertions per minute.
A revolutionary machine invented by Stäubli many years ago, the rotary dobby has been developed further. There’s a new locking system, which features enhanced security for the selection of the heald frames, allowing higher running speeds and superior reliability.
Moreover, to meet the latest requirements of modern weaving machines, Stäubli’s range of cam motions has been further developed and the complete line now has the types that are equipped with a high-performance cam-and-lever assembly and a broad range of symmetrical and asymmetrical cams. Besides this, Stäubli is also known to provide original spare parts and an assortment of these were on display from every business area.
Global premium denim market under one roof
Faithful to its original concept and values, Denim Première Vision brought together a selected offer reflecting the global premium denim market. Around 87 exhibitors including weavers, manufacturers/launderers/finishers, accessory makers, fibre producers and spinners and technology developers and promotional organisations represented the value-chain of worldwide denim production.
Six new companies were rigorously selected of which three were manufacturers – Baykanlar Tekstil, Firemount Textiles and Ariteks Boyacilik, one weaver – Advance Denim Limited, one accessories manufacturer – Kasiv Leather Label and one fibre producer- Hyosung Corporation exhibited at the show. Know-how and developments from the 21 important countries in jeanswear industry were on display during the event. Turkey represented 33 per cent of exhibitors, Italy made up14 per cent, Spain were 8 per cent, Morocco at 8 percent and rest of the exhibitors were from Japan, France, Germany, Pakistan and Hong Kong.
Innovative functional denim fabrics on display
Many exhibitors showcased new functional denim fabrics and alternative new fibres. Among them, for instance, Orta launched its BioKinetic denim, Prosperity unveiled some new fabrics including Amicor, an antimicrobial fibre, and Sweet Indigo, a fabric that demands 60 per cent less chemical oxygen in its production.
Bossa’s new line of fabrics included four-way stretch high-recovery denim with climate control properties created using Coolmax, another variation with 21per cent Cleancool, a Japanese antibacterial fibre, and 79 per cent organic cotton range of sustainable fabrics. Also new is their denim range was product made with Ice Cotton, a 100 per cent natural cotton produced by Swiss company Spoerry.
Tejidos Royo launched a series of 3D fabrics, Tencel fabrics featuring high-resolution special motives as part of their Ambi-Wash project. This group of fabrics is made with high-end sustainable fibres and processes employing environmentally friendly dyeing substances made by Italian specialist Montega Verde and washed by Italian laundry Lim.
Important sessions marked the event
This season’s major events included The Denim Trend Tasting seminar held on November 18, 2015, which was organised by the Première Vision fashion team. The seminar focused on seasonal influences and forecast of Spring/Summer ’17 trends. The session was presented by consultant Michelle Branch, an international expert in the denim industry - from product development to production, from technological innovations to finishing, from style to the construction of collections, including marketing and sales challenges.
The 1st Denim Smart Conversation was held on November 19, 2015. An exclusive master class was organised to understand the innovations and challenges related to responsible creation and production in the denim industry. This event also presented the strategies and actions put in place by Denim Première Vision to better respond to the new issues of responsibility in the sector.
Denimpremierevision.com
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The 17th edition of Denim Première Vision - an event for the entire global chain of upscale and creative jeanswear witnessed a relatively low visitor turnout compared to its May edition. However, exhibitors expressed satisfaction over the overall response they received during the two days on November 18 and 19, 2015 in Barcelona. Nearly 4,000 international visitors against 4,131 in May 2015 included premium and high-end fashion and jeanswear brands; designers, and major luxury names. </br>
Global premium denim market under one roof
</br>
Faithful to its original concept and values, Denim Première Vision brought together a selected offer reflecting the global premium denim market. Around 87 exhibitors including weavers, manufacturers/launderers/finishers, accessory makers, fibre producers and spinners and technology developers and promotional organisations represented the value-chain of worldwide denim production. </br>
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Six new companies were rigorously selected of which three were manufacturers – Baykanlar Tekstil, Firemount Textiles and Ariteks Boyacilik, one weaver – Advance Denim Limited, one accessories manufacturer – Kasiv Leather Label and one fibre producer- Hyosung Corporation exhibited at the show. Know-how and developments from the 21 important countries in jeanswear industry were on display during the event. Turkey represented 33 per cent of exhibitors, Italy made up14 per cent, Spain were 8 per cent, Morocco at 8 percent and rest of the exhibitors were from Japan, France, Germany, Pakistan and Hong Kong. </br>
Innovative functional denim fabrics on display
</br>
Many exhibitors showcased new functional denim fabrics and alternative new fibres. Among them, for instance, Orta launched its BioKinetic denim, Prosperity unveiled some new fabrics including Amicor, an antimicrobial fibre, and Sweet Indigo, a fabric that demands 60 per cent less chemical oxygen in its production. </br>
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Bossa’s new line of fabrics included four-way stretch high-recovery denim with climate control properties created using Coolmax, another variation with 21per cent Cleancool, a Japanese antibacterial fibre, and 79 per cent organic cotton range of sustainable fabrics. Also new is their denim range was product made with Ice Cotton, a 100 per cent natural cotton produced by Swiss company Spoerry. </br>
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Tejidos Royo launched a series of 3D fabrics, Tencel fabrics featuring high-resolution special motives as part of their Ambi-Wash project. This group of fabrics is made with high-end sustainable fibres and processes employing environmentally friendly dyeing substances made by Italian specialist Montega Verde and washed by Italian laundry Lim. </br>
Important sessions marked the event
</br>
This season’s major events included The Denim Trend Tasting seminar held on November 18, 2015, which was organised by the Première Vision fashion team. The seminar focused on seasonal influences and forecast of Spring/Summer ’17 trends. The session was presented by consultant Michelle Branch, an international expert in the denim industry - from product development to production, from technological innovations to finishing, from style to the construction of collections, including marketing and sales challenges. </br>
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The 1st Denim Smart Conversation was held on November 19, 2015. An exclusive master class was organised to understand the innovations and challenges related to responsible creation and production in the denim industry. This event also presented the strategies and actions put in place by Denim Première Vision to better respond to the new issues of responsibility in the sector. </br>
Denimpremierevision.com
Sri Lanka is aiming at a quantum jump in apparel exports despite the market scenario being grim. The country is targeting $50 billion in apparel exports by 2020. The apparel categories span sportswear, lingerie, lounge wear, bridal wear, work wear, swim wear and children’s wear.
Sri Lanka’s apparel exports are the main contributor in the country’s total exports, which stood at $4.5 billion in 2013 and surged by 9 per cent to $4.9 billion in 2014. In the January-September period this year Sri Lanka’s apparel exports fetched $3.6 billion.
Sri Lanka has become a reliable and high quality manufacturer on the global map over the course of time and it caters to reputed international brands like Victoria’s Secret, GAP, Liz Claiborne, Next, Jones New York, Nike, Tommy Hilfiger, Pink, Triumph, Ann Taylor and Speedo.
Sri Lanka’s apparel export is the most significant and dynamic contributor to the economy. The industry has enjoyed epic growth levels over the past four decades and is today Sri Lanka’s primary foreign exchange earner accounting for 40 per cent of total exports and 52 per cent of industrial products exports. The industry is almost entirely privately owned.
To promote opportunities in India for textile machinery manufactures, India’s ITME Society organised a networking dinner at NH Fiera, Milan recently. Industry members, Associations, media and government officials from various countries attended this by invite-only event. The meet saw a good gathering of 17 associations, 36 journalists and above 50 MNCs from 17 countries. Basant K Gupta, India’s ambassador to Italy graced the evening as the chief guest while the guest of honour was Raoul Ascari, Chief Global Development Officer, SACE.
Ascari spoke about the support offered by SACE to Italian companies interested in investing in India, and the presentation generated much interest among the guests, making everyone believe that India and Italy will in future activities benefit from each other in the textile and textile engineering industry.
Gupta highlighted the various textile parks and schemes initiated by the government of India, which is expected to create more opportunities for textile machinery manufacturers and textile companies in India. He also pointed out the Indian’s governments schemes to encourage ‘Make in India’ and the high demand for modern textile machinery in India.
Raju Paithankar, from Indian Textile Technologist made a presentation about the traditional textile fabric of India ‘Pashmina Cashmere’, which is a rare and luxury fibre, and obtained from a specific breed of goats, which survive at a height of 17,000 feet in Ladakh. Two Italian companies, Loro Piana and Reda and Paithankar are together working extensively to produce and promote this traditional fabric from India.
The use of child labor in Uzbekistanʼs cotton harvest is becoming rarer, but there are indications adults are being press-ganged into service this year. In 2012, Uzbekistan banned the practice of child labor following a punishing cotton boycott by leading western brands. Authorities have taken a range of measures to reduce the incidence of child labor and make it socially unacceptable.
Apparent efforts by Uzbekistan to reduce reliance on underage workers prompted the US to promote Uzbekistan from Tier III to Tier II on its watch list. However, the burden of meeting harvest quotas has shifted to adults, who may be recruited against their will though large numbers of citizens seem to be willing recruits and see the harvest as an opportunity.
Organised recruitment of large number of people within such a short period of time carries risks linked to workers’ rights. There are certain indicators of forced labor. Students from colleges and universities take part in the harvest. But there are doubts if they are coming of their own will. Labor has been drawn from the healthcare and education sector and this has had a devastating effect on the quality of public services.
There have been widespread reports of intimidation of civil society campaigners seeking to document abuses in cotton harvesting.
Bangladesh’s earnings from exports to the US saw a robust 15.76 per cent growth during the first quarter of the current fiscal. This represents 20.04 per cent of the country’s total export earnings during the period. Increase in export earnings was mainly due to the good performance of the readymade garment sector.
The US is the largest export destination for Bangladesh’s goods. Major exports to the US market during the period were woven garments, knitwear, frozen shrimps, home textiles and caps. Around 31.94 per cent of Bangladesh’s total woven garment exports entered the US market followed by knitwear at 12.85 per cent.
The 2009-10 fiscal marked the end of an up-and-down period for Bangladesh’s exports to the US. From robust $2.5 billion during the 2000-01 fiscal, exports had fallen below two billion dollars by 2003-04. Exports to the US rose steadily to cross the three billion dollar mark in 2005-06 and peaked at nearly 3.6 billion dollars during the 2007-08 fiscal.
Bangladesh’s export earnings from the US in fiscal 2013-14 were impressive at $5,583.62 million, up from $5,419.60 million in fiscal 2012-13. Exports in 2011-12 were also impressive, totaling $5,100.91 million, slightly down from $5,107.52 million in fiscal 2010-11.
