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Sustainable clothing options are increasing for those dedicated to the cause. Luxury knitwear made from dead-stock yarns, one-of-a-kind pieces from unwanted locally sourced materials, and a synthetic spider silk parka are some of the latest options. The first product successfully made of synthetic spider silk materials is the Moon Parka. It took 11 years, 10 design iterations, and 656 gene synthesis designs to create it. Spiber, the Japanese advanced biomaterials company in collaboration with The North Face, created the prototype outerwear jacket and expects to deliver the final product in 2016. The product was a result of biomimicry and Spiber’s researchers were inspired by the extremely strong and flexible threads that spiders produce with biological proteins. The synthetic fibre used in the Moon Parka, called Qmonos was due to the development of over a decade. It is produced through an industrial fermentation process that involves micro-organisms producing proteins.
Spiber hopes to revolutionise the apparel industry with Moon Parka as a proof of concept for the spider silk fibre and the company has also set its sights on the automotive and medical device industries for future product development. Focussing on geckos’ sticky toe pads to improve adhesives and recyclability, Ford Motor Company’s researchers are also exploring biomimicry for inspiration.
Eleanor O’Neill, the designer with her Study 34 label is doing her part, where she hand-makes clothing using leftover luxury yarn. O’Neill buys the remnants of high-quality yarns disposed by manufacturers if there is not enough left to produce a complete line of garments. She buys in bulk and produces limited knitwear collections.
President John Mahama’s directive on government's policy on Made in Ghana products is being flouted by the Min¬istry of Education according to certain documents. Fabrics being used for government's free school uniform programme for de¬prived pupils by the ministry are being imported from China. The ministry has rendered a contractual agreement with one of the local textile manufacturing companies, to supply the fabric useless with Printex Ghana.
Now, equipment worth millions of dollars, which the company purchased to re¬tool in anticipation of continuous production of the uniforms, lies idle. In 2009, local textile manufac¬turing companies were empowered by the government, by procuring all its fabric needs from local manufacturers. However, it seems the government has abandoned the plan a few years down the line as the local textile manufacturing companies, to pro¬cure the uniforms from China made huge investments into retooling and installing new ma¬chines to meet the new demand.
The Greater Accra Regional Directorate of the Ghana Ed¬ucation Service released sets of uni¬forms to schools in Metropolitan, Municipality and District Assemblies for onward distribution to pupils in the region, recently. This action has resulted in many in the manufacturing industry doubting the government's commit¬ment to grow the local industry if it continues to import cheap fabric from China at the expense of a weak local textile manufacturing industry.
Secretary General of the Ghana Federation of Labour, Abraham Koomson said that the policy to pro¬cure fabrics locally was to help resusci¬tate the local textile industry and to create jobs and the union was seriously disappointed at the development.
“Where global industry and economy is facing challenge, the biggest edition opening today, attests ITMA as the trend setting exhibition,” says Charles Beauduin, President of the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX) which owns the ITMA series, said, "ITMA has a very strong reputation as the world's most established textile and garment technology exhibition. We are grateful to our exhibitors and industry partners who have put their faith in the ITMA brand. The key to ITMA's success is its ability to reinvent itself and remain relevant to the industry that it serves.” Adding further he said, “The increasing number of exhibitors is an indication that industry is looking for efficient solutions, better technology and ITMA is responding to the demands of the textile industry.”
ITMA 2015 has opened up today on Nov 12, 2015 achieving a new 
milestone, with 1,691 exhibitors, the maximum so far in 64 years of history of ITMA, 20 per cent larger than 2011 exhibition. Opening at the Fiera Milano Rho today, the 17th edition of ITMA has 1,691 exhibitors from 46 countries and economies. The previous record was set by ITMA 2007 when 1,451 exhibitors from 38 countries took part in the exhibition.
The theme of ITMA 2015 is 'Master the Art of Sustainable Innovation'. The exhibition is not only a mega technology showcase; it also features initiatives underpinning the focus on sustainability. “As manufacturers realize that investing in sustainable technology is not about saving earth but also this is reducing cost of production” says Charles. Among the new initiatives is the launch of the ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award, the rebranding of the Research and Education Pavilion to Research and Innovation Pavilion, and many knowledge-sharing platforms to drive home the sustainability message.
ITMA 2015 features the largest exhibition so far, with the net exhibit space of over 108,000 square metres, occupying 11 halls of the Fiera Milano Rho fairgrounds, about 20 per cent larger than the 2011 exhibition.As in previous editions,exhibitors from CEMATEX countries occupy the largest space, with 73,830 square metres representing 69 per cent of the total net exhibit space, an increase of 18 per cent increase from the 2011 figure.The largest participating country in terms of space booked is Italy. Italian exhibitors totaled an area of 32,540 square metres, followed by Germany at 21,380 square metres, Switzerland at 5,530 square metres, and Spain with 4,540 square metres.
From non-CEMATEX countries, the four largest groups of participants are from Turkey at 7,590 square metres, China at 5,880 square metres, India at 4,870 square metres, and Japan at 3,960 square metres.The countries fielding the largest contingent of exhibitors at ITMA 2015 are Italy (453 exhibitors), Germany (238 exhibitors), China (184 exhibitors) and India (158 exhibitors).
ITMA 2015 features exhibits clustered into 19 product sectors. The sectors range from spinning, web formation, winding and texturing, weaving, knitting and hosiery, embroidery and braiding, finishing, dyestuffs and chemicals, software, logistics, plant operations, recycling and education to garment making and textile processing, printing and fibre and yarn.The top five sectors being dyeing and finishing which occupies 23 per cent of the space, with 303 exhibitors, spinning with 14 per cent of the space, 290 exhibitors, weaving with 12 per cent of the space, 179 exhibitors, knitting and hosiery, 13 per cent of the space, 128 exhibitors and printing that has 10 per cent of the space, 113 exhibitors.
CEMATEX continues to support research and educational institutes with a grant for the participation in the Research and Innovation Pavilion.The pavilion has 40 participating institutions. Taking centre-stage at the pavilion is the Speakers Platform which will be held from 15 to 17 November. A total of 43 papers on the theme of sustainable innovations, achievements in innovation and technical textiles applications, will be presented at the platform.
A series of complementary events have been organised to meet the needs of textile and garment industry professionals. These key events include, 2nd World Textile Summit, Nonwovens Forum, Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forum, 2BFUNTEX Final Conference, Better Cotton Initiative's Responsible Sourcing Seminar, Digital Textile Conference, EURATEX Convention and SistemaModa Italia Presentation Organised by MP Expositions, ITMA 2015 is expected to draw visitors from over 130 countries. It is held from 12 to 19 November at the Fiera Milano Rho. The next ITMA will be held in Barcelona at Fira de Barcelona Gran Via venue from 20 to 26 June 2019.
World Textile Summit
13 November 2015 -The World Textile Summit (WTS) 2015 will bring together the world's most influential textile business leaders to explore business responses to the international drive for sustainable manufacturing. Hosting the summit is Nadine Dereza – an award-winning journalist. Illustrious speakers include:Franke Henke, Global Vice President of Social &Environtment Affairs, adidas Group,Linda Keppinger, Global Materials Director, Nike Inc., and Roger Yeh, President, Everest Textile Co Ltd.WTS 2015 is organised by CEMATEX, MP Expositions and World Textile Information Network.
Textile Colourant and Chemical Leaders Forum
14 November 2015- Launched at ITMA 2011, the forum was an industry initiative that drew lively participation from dyestuff, colour and chemical professionals from around the world. This year’s forum focuses on sustainable manufacturing vis-à-vis colourants and chemicals. The agenda will addresstopics related to chemical pollution and the environmental issues and how these impact the market place, the response of supply chain; andthe trends and/or game changers moving forward.
Nonwovens Forum at ITMA
16 November 2015- Jointly organised by EDANA, the international association for the nonwovens and related Industries and MP, the forum features topics relating to applications and technologies, as well as added value ingredients and finishing for nonwovens. Jacques Prigneaux, Market Analysis and Economic Affairs Director at EDANA, will also touch on production figures, trends and forecast, and international trade dynamics for the nonwovens sector.
Bangladesh wants to develop its silk industry. The traditional silk industry has lagged behind economically and market is limited. Original silk has been replaced by synthetic duplicates. Bangladesh imports 486 tons of silk mostly from China every year as the local production of raw silk is only 24 metric tons against the demand of 510 tons. Local production of silk meets only 4.7 per cent of the domestic demand.
The country also wants to encourage production of quality silk for export. The main constraints of the silk sector in Bangladesh are a shortage of local mulberry production, obsolete technology, poor advertising, inadequate capital and insufficient governmental facilities. The sericulture industry in the country has largely become stagnant. Silk production declined dramatically over 1995 due to an increase in VAT on imported silk, followed by devastating floods in 1998.
Mulberry leaf is the food on which the silkworm lives. Production of raw silk is directly dependent on the production of this leaf. In Bangladesh mulberry plantation occupies now about 4,000 hectares. Bangladesh today can produce 80 to 100 metric tons of raw silk if it utilises its present resources. India is the second largest producer and the largest consumer of silk in the world.
During the recent Denim Playground show in Dhaka, organiser Denimsandjeans.com launched a first of its kind online show called DeBrands.
The idea behind this concept is to take advantage of the changes happening in the global fashion space owing to the Internet revolution. Elaborating, Sandeep Agarwal, Organiser, Denim Playground says, “Lots of business will be transacted online in the coming years and that’s the reason we need to be prepared for the new trend driven by the Internet and social media. So through Denimsandjeans.com, we decided to create a platform specifically for the denim industry, where the denim mills could showcase their collections to the buyers across the world, without actually having to meet in person to do so.”
Initially, the platform would implement the program with some denim fabric companies and later it will extend it to garment producers and others, who are part of the supply chain. The platform will provide several features for exhibitors, suppliers and buyers such as exhibiting products, opportunity to show limited or entire product range, initiate a dialogue and so on.
The fourth edition of our Denimsandjeans show, Denim Playground was based on the theme of athleisure, sighting the trend that consumers across the world are looking for much more comfortable, stretchy and active wear products with a lot of sales from the denim industry shifting to active wear segment. The idea was to focus on the athleisure part of the denim and how the industry players can integrate this trend in their denim offerings.
www.denimsandjeans.com
The Russian government plans to focus on the development of domestic technical textiles industry for the next several years. According to Denis Pak, Head of the Department of Development of domestic trade, light industry and consumer market of the Russian Ministry of Industry and Trade, technical textiles is considered the most promising segment among Russia’s light industry.
Linen and wool currently occupy a small share of the Russian market, which is steadily declining. However, consumption of polyester and viscose is steadily growing. Historically, Pak says, the Russian light industry was focussed on natural raw materials, and in particular cotton, wool, linen, while the production of synthetic fibres and technical textile materials was insignificant. However, technical textile industry could potentially be the largest contributer to the national GDP and they are planning to focus on the development of this segment during the next several years.
Despite all efforts taken by the Russian government in recent years, though, the volume of domestic technical textiles production still remains low, while up to 80 percent of the market accounts for imports, according to data from the Russian Ministry of Industry and Trade. However, the government believes that in the coming years, the current situation would change.
The implementation of a series of investment projects in the field of technical textiles in Russia would provide import replacement in the domestic technical textiles market that would amount to 70 billion rubles ($1,2 billion) a year, as per the Ministry. To speed up R&D activities in the field of technical textiles and in particular those aimed at developing new types of synthetic fibres and yarns, the government also plans to allocate funds.
Many Chinese textile manufacturers are building factories in Vietnam. Reason: apparel produced in the Southeast Asian country for the US market will be tariff-free under the new Trans-Pacific Partnership agreement. The prospect of a sweeping Pacific trade agreement is led by the United States, and excluding China, is also driving Chinese yarn companies to gain a foothold in Vietnam, lest they be shut out of the lucrative American market.
Before the zero-tariff policy under TPP, many labor-intensive Chinese industries had already shifted to Southeast Asian countries like Vietnam. Labor costs there are four to five times cheaper than in China. Chinese companies are putting money in R&D centers in Vietnam covering the whole industry chain, including cotton, spinning, weaving and dyeing.
Vietnam has become a major importer of fabrics and a leading exporter of clothing. But weak domestic production has left local companies struggling to cope with international demand. So in a way the Chinese can be credited with getting textile jobs back.
Textile production in China is becoming increasingly unprofitable after years of rising wages, higher energy bills and mounting logistical costs as well as new government quotas on the import of cotton. In China, the whole yarn manufacturing industry is losing money. Manufacturing wages adjusted for productivity have almost tripled in China over the last decade.
In the two years since the launch of the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) 2020 targets, WRAP claims that waste generated by the clothing supply chains has remained ‘stable’. WRAP identified key areas that could deliver reductions in environmental impact of clothing. These are: using lower impact fibres, extending the active life of clothes, and increasing re-use and recycling and that is when SCAP was launched in 2013. Retailers such as Marks & Spencer, have signed up to the SCAP 2020 commitment.
Signatories pledged to reduce carbon, water and waste to landfill by 15 per cent alongside a 3.5 per cent reduction in the amount of waste arising per tonne of clothing by 2020, under the commitments. A 16,000 tonne waste reduction across the clothing supply chain, encompassing the entire lifecycle of the products would be required for the targets measured against a 2012 baseline.
Nationwide retailers such as the Arcadia Group, Debenhams, John Lewis, New Look, Next, and Marks and Spencer, including clothing designers, textile recyclers and waste management firms are all a part of the 82 signatories and supporters that signed up to the commitment. WRAP estimates that signatories to the commitment represent over 50 percent of the UK retail market by sales, volume and value.
Director of WRAP, Marcus Gover said that SCAP signatories have made great progress against the targets to date, particularly water and that this was a positive indication of what can be achieved and it must be capitalised on the momentum it has been built. He added that they would be working with the sector to ensure focus is maintained on priority areas.
A further sharp downturn in emerging market economies and world trade has weakened global growth to around 2.9 per cent this year – well below the long-run average – and is a source of uncertainty for near-term prospects, says the OECD, the organisation of Economic Cooperation and Development.
In its latest twice-yearly, the OECD projects a gradual strengthening of global growth in 2016 and 2017 to an annual 3.3 per cent and 3.6 per cent respectively. But a clear pick-up in activity requires a smooth rebalancing of activity in China and more robust investment in advanced economies. Emerging market challenges, weak trade and concerns about potential output suggest higher downside risks and vulnerabilities compared with the OECD’s June Outlook.
Presenting the outlook in Paris on November 9, 2015, OECD Secretary-General Angel Gurría said, “The slowdown in global trade and the continuing weakness in investment are deeply concerning. Robust trade and investment and stronger global growth should go hand in hand. G-20 leaders meeting in Antalya need to renew their efforts to secure strong, sustainable and balanced growth.”
The outlook calls for greater ambition by OECD and G20 countries in supporting demand and pursuing structural reforms to boost potential growth and ensure that its economic benefits are shared by all. It calls for policies to support short-term demand, including on-going monetary and fiscal policy support in accordance with countries’ policy space. Collective action to increase public investment is essential and would increase growth without increasing debt-to-GDP ratios.
www.oecd.org
