India is likely to delay the imposition of retaliatory tariffs on US goods. Incensed by the American refusal to exempt it from the new tariffs, India had decided in June to raise import tax on some US products from August 4. The US wants to reduce its trade deficit with India. The country’s US export growth has consistently declined till May. It fell from a 21.49 per cent growth rate in January to 19.50 per cent in February, 14.75 per cent in March, 13 per cent in April and 11.38 per cent in May.

India’s share in the US’ total goods imports is two per cent and five per cent in services. In contrast, the US’ share in India’s goods imports is five per cent and 15 per cent in services imports. India is also hopeful of securing exemption from the US regarding steel and aluminium tariffs, which had been imposed earlier by the US against all trade partners.

Tariff hikes raise new trade barriers, make domestic manufacturing more attractive as the steep increases in customs duties make imports unaffordable. For agri products such as pulses, which have witnessed an increase from 30 per cent to 70 per cent, this would provide encouragement in increasing the cultivable area, on the back of good pulse production in recent years in India.

Bangladesh feels by building its image as a green industry in the global market the country’s export earnings can see growth. But the country faces problems of poor awareness on environmental sustainability and inadequate funds. Lack of technical expertise, limited availability of resources, scarcity of land and poor data management at the factory level are other factors.

But efforts toward green initiatives in the readymade garment sector are unstinting. Buyers the world over are attracted to green factories because of their commitment towards the environment. Green industrialization can play a vital role in increasing product diversification, price competitiveness and cost competitiveness.

Since 2011, 67 Bangladesh readymade garment factories have received Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certification from the US Green Building Council (USGBC), one of the top green building rating systems in the world. Out of the 67 factories, 13 have been rated platinum, 20 gold, and five silver. At least 222 more factories have been registered with the USGBC for the LEED certification.

The world is moving toward green industrialization. Green initiatives in the apparel industry attract global brands and retailers. Indonesia has 40 green factories, followed by India with 30 and Sri Lanka with 10. Bangladesh’s readymade garment sector is a $28 billion dollar industry.

The Chairman of Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association, Vu Duc Gaing says, free trade agreements, particularly the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP) and the EU-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA), are attracting big investments in Vietnam’s garment-textile industry. Giang revealed that in the first six months of 2018, Vietnam attracted $2.8 of foreign direct investment (FDI) in garment-textile, bringing the total FDI in the sector to nearly $17.5 billion.

The country also witnessed the launching of several large-scale projects including a German-invested sheep wool yarn spinning plant in the Central Highlands city of Da Lat and an US-invested yarn production plant in the southern province of Dong Nai. Many Vietnamese firms also invested in material production projects. Besides, CPTPP and EVFTA have changed the structure of export markets of Vietnamese garment-textile products in recent years.

The Green Supply Chain Map has top notch brands as its members. This is an online transparency tool that ties companies to their suppliers’ environmental performance in China. It collates data from the Chinese government and member brands to map out and monitor the individual performance of supplier factories based around China.

The online tool, launched at the start of the year, details the names, addresses and geo locations of supplier facilities and provides real-time emissions data, feedback about corrective actions and resource use information.

Among the members of Green Supply Chain Map are Levi’s, Tesco, Target, Esprit, New Balance, Puma, Adidas, Gap and Inditex. These are leaders in supply chain transparency and environmental management.

So 70 of Levi’s’ suppliers and 145 of Tesco’s suppliers will have their supply chains made publicly available on the Green Supply Chain Map. Users of the online tool are then able to filter information by brand and assess details relating to air emissions and wastewater discharge from individual supply chains.

These suppliers primarily conduct wet processing operations, such as dyeing and finishing of fiber and leather. The tool gives companies the real-time information they need to ensure environmentally responsible operations from afar. It also allows customers and other concerned members of the public to gain greater transparency around companies’ environmental impact.

Chinese and US textile and apparel organisations are concerned about escalating trade tensions and have voiced their opposition to protectionism. Tariff increases are not just a tax on consumers it also brings uncertainty to the supply chain for brands. Top brands depend a lot on a stable global supply chain.

Around 1,000 types of Chinese products in the textile and apparel category are subject to tariffs imposed by the US. The products, mainly raw materials such as yarns and fabric, range from silk and cotton to lace and embroidery. However, in order to not hurt consumers, the tariffs have been focused on manufacturing inputs rather than clothing, footwear and home textiles.

Though American brands and retailers are sourcing from many other countries, including Vietnam, Bangladesh, India and Indonesia, as well as countries in the western hemisphere, they feel there aren’t enough viable sourcing in the world to replace China – and especially not the quality sourcing that they want. US companies are very concerned about the broader implications of protectionism for their economy, consumers and the global economy.

Neither US consumers, nor fashion brands or Chinese textile and apparel manufacturers are expected to benefit from the conflict. The US will take a final decision by the end of August.

Burberry has recently acquired a new logo that says "Burberry London England" in stark capital letters, replacing the softer, rounder font the company previously used. The brand also adopted a new monogram print featuring interlocking T's and B's—for its founder, Thomas Burberry.

The graphics were designed in collaboration with the British art director and graphic designer Peter Saville, who last year revamped the Calvin Klein logo with Raf Simons. The logo and monogram print recently began appearing across all of Burberry’s channels and in a new advertising campaign.

The new logo was adopted after recent public outrage over Burberry reportedly burning unsold clothing stock worth €28 million. The London-based brand, which joined Nike and H&M in an initiative to improve industry sustainability earlier this year, said the move was in an effort to protect against counterfeiters. Many consumers had voiced their disapproval, and ThredUp, an apparel resale site, penned an open letter it released on Instagram.

An ambitious startup - the Walls of Benin - led by 30-year-old Chi Atanga, a man from Cameroonian born in Manchester, England, plans to build factories in Africa for making stylish and sophisticated sleepwear, loungewear and casualwear that is suitable for all occasions

Atanga, who researched and designed the business plan for Walls of Benin, is now setting up operations in a Special Economic Zone outside the coastal city of Mombasa, Kenya's second-largest city. He will take the spirit of African print textiles and swap wax and heavy cloth for more luxurious and ecological fabrics. Kente, Ghana's famous silk-and-cotton blend is an example of an African fabric, while silk and Tencel are natural fibres with extra softness and moisture-wicking properties.

Currently, Walls of Benin operates from Kenya and Rwanda, and imports silk and Tencel from Portugal. In April 2018, the company partnered with Wildlife Works, a wildlife conservation group based in Kenya, to launch an African production. It hopes to export luxury loungewear made of extra-soft silk and Tencel to Europe and elsewhere.

Bluezone will be held on September 4 to 5. This will reinforce denim’s sense of community and discovery. This edition will be the largest yet with more than 100 international brands in the denim and sportswear categories showcasing their latest fabric developments.

The show’s overriding theme for the season, Perpetuum Blue, reflects how the denim industry is in a state of constant motion. Through trend displays, workshops and presentations, Bluezone will bring to life how parallel universes like high fashion and non-fashion are developing in the denim sector.

New exhibitors at the already sold-out show include: Desert Studio, Pizarro Wiser, Hyosung Creora and Imatex. Fashion label Atelier & Repair will also present a collection in partnership with Candiani and Lenzing. Italian denim mill Berto will present its Pianeta fabric development made with upcycled production scraps.

Pakistan-based mills will showcase sustainable inroads they’re making. Rantex will introduce an eco-color concept, while Soorty will bring its Zero Waste Water collection. Meanwhile, Naveena will present its flexible performance technology, Wraptech.

For the first time, the outdoor area around Bluezone will be used as additional exhibition space. The street festival-inspired space, called the Blue Yard, will offer a blend of old and new, showcasing a mix of vintage showrooms and exhibits that revolve around new technologies.

"Garment Technology Expo (GTE), is one of the biggest and most comprehensive B2B expos for apparel machinery. The next edition of GTE ’18 will take place in Bengaluru from August 18 to 20, 2018 at Dr Prabhakar Kore Convetion Centre. This is the 8th edition of GTE to be held in South India. The three-day expo will showcase technologies related to making fine garments under one roof. The exhibits encompass technology dedicated to apparels, embroidery, laundry and steam finishing, knitting, digital printing and accessories. The first GTE Bengaluru was held in 2006 and since 2008, the expo is being held every alternate year."

Garment Technology Expo (GTE), is one of the biggest and most comprehensive B2B expos for apparel machinery. The next edition of GTE ’18 will take place in Bengaluru from August 18 to 20, 2018 at Dr Prabhakar Kore Convetion Centre. This is the 8th edition of GTE to be held in South India. The three-day expo will showcase technologies related to making fine garments under one roof. The exhibits encompass technology dedicated to apparels, embroidery, laundry and steam finishing, knitting, digital printing and accessories. The first GTE Bengaluru was held in 2006 and since 2008, the expo is being held every alternate year.

Many firsts

Many first time exhibitors will showcase their latest products and technologies at GTE ’18 to help the industry gear up for the future. These include exhibitors showcasing embroidery machinery, lazer cutting machines etc. They will launch innovative machines to cater to the domestic and export market. The three-day expo will host customers and international participants from over 22 countries.

The nerve centre of the garment industry, home furnishing fabricators in South India, Bengaluru, is also the region’s biggest readymade garment production and export hub with over 1,500 factories employing 500,000 workers. The metro is conveniently connected with neighbouring states in the South. All major garment brands have set up production bases in the city while many big Indian garment exporters operate from the city.

Wide array of products on display

GTE ’18 will showcase a wide range of products including sewing machines, knitting, embroidery and digital textile printing machines, laundry & steam finishing equipment, quilting, spreading & cutting and leather garment machines, CAD/CAM, finishing & testing, fusing and dyeing machines, dyes & chemicals, spares & attachments, accessories & trims, fancy yarns, fabrics, IT enabled services, software solutions.

The biggest industry show in the subcontinent, GTE is patronised by trade professionals including manufacturers, exporters, institutions and other volume consumers. Numerous brand owners, CEOs, MDs, production heads and the like visit the expo to negotiate deals for new machinery while designers, technical supervisors, shop floor managers, etc, update themselves on new technologies, materials etc. The expo attracts visitors from all over Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, Madhya Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh, Kerala, Maharashtra, Goa, Gujarat and more. Designers, manufacturers, dealers, traders, distributors and agents are the target visitors.

Ensuring a good footfall

A promoter of value addition shows, GTE ’18 will ensure record footfall of genuine visitors. The expo is being publicised through all industry related trade magazines, media, emails, SMS messages etc to stakeholders in the garment industry. Prior to the expo, the organiser ensure extensive branding on autos, advertisements in all leading newspapers in India and hoardings in vantage locations.

"As per latest US customs data, the country’s imports of home textiles and made-ups grew at a robust 7.7 per cent to reach 8,740 million sq. mt. during the January-May 2018 period. Import of made-ups and home textiles of man-made fibres grew 10 per cent to reach 6,093.6 million sq. mt. In contrast, cotton made-ups and home textile imports grew by 1.6 per cent to reach 2,375.5 million sq. mt."

As per latest US customs data, the country’s imports of home textiles and made-ups grew at a robust 7.7 per cent to reach 8,740 million sq. mt. during the January-May 2018 period. Import of made-ups and home textiles of man-made fibres grew 10 per cent to reach 6,093.6 million sq. mt. In contrast, cotton made-ups and home textile imports grew by 1.6 per cent to reach 2,375.5 million sq. mt.

Home textiles and growing business

In value terms however, US imports of cotton made-ups and home textiles during January-May 2018, were $3034.7 million, 1.41 per cent lower than during January-May 2017. China, which enjoys a share of 36 per cent in total US cotton home textile imports, witnessed a fall of 0.57 per cent in exports to the US, at $1,091.6 million. Close on the heels is India at $990.99 million, witnessed a drop of 6 per cent.

In MMF made-ups and home textiles, India's share is a meager 4.43 per cent, while China enjoys majority share of 61 per cent. In dollar terms, India's exports of MMF home textiles to the US grew 6.66 per cent to $100 million during January-May 2018. China's exports during the period were to the tune of $1390.92 million, growing 7.52 per cent

The global home textile market is estimated to reach $130 billion by 2021. Bed linen accounts for the largest share of 45 per cent in this segment, while bath linen constitutes 20 per cent. Other segments such as floor coverings, furnishings, table and kitchen linen make up 35per cent of home textile market. Bed linen and bedspreads segment is expected to grow at a CAGR of 4.4 per cent to reach $60 billion by 2020. The US is the world's single largest home textiles market accounting for 21 per cent market share. The US market is projected to grow at CAGR of 3 per cent to reach $27 billion by FY2020. Europe is the second largest home textiles market, accounting for 26.8 per cent. Bed and bath linen market in Europe is expected to grow at CAGR of 1.7 per cent to $17 billion by 2020.

Meanwhile, Asia Pacific, accounting for 44 per cent of the market, remains the most dominant producer and consumer of home textiles. Here, China is the largest manufacturer and consumer of home textiles. The market size is estimated at $30 billion.

India is the third largest home textiles market in the Asia Pacific region, projected to grow at a CAGR of 7.2 per cent to reach $5.6 billion by 2020. India's bed linen consumption is expected to reach Rs 19,350 crore ( $US 2.81 billion) by 2021, growing at a CAGR of 8 per cent from 2011-2021. Towels consumption in the country is estimated to reach Rs 7,060 crore ( $US 1.02 billion) by 2021, curtains Rs 4,790 crore ( $US 0.70 billion) , blankets Rs 2,850 crore ( $US 0.41 billion), upholstery Rs 3,080 crore( $US 0.45 billion), kitchen linen Rs 2,400 crore( $US 0.35 billion), and rugs and carpets ( $US 0.18 billion) crore by 2021. The strong growth expected in the market over the next three years has pushed up investments in the sector.