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To be held from Sep 03-07, 2025, the 2025 Spring/Summer Seoul Fashion Week will connect 95 Korean brands with 120 global buyers. The event will showcase the upcoming year's spring and summer collections at Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) and other key fashion districts across the city.
Since its inception in 2000, this annual event has aimed to elevate K-fashion on the global stage by strengthening the international networks of domestic designers and fashion brands, linking them with buyers from around the world.
This year, the event will focus on enhancing exchanges and maximising contract opportunities through a more robust business program. It will feature prominent apparel brands including Youser, Julycolumn, Ulkin, Eenk, Bonbom, Amomento, and Marhenj.
Prominent international buyers, such as France's Prendang clothing store, Japan's Daimaru department store, and Singapore's Club 21, will also attend the show, highlighting the high expectations for the event.
The tradeshow will feature one-on-one business consultations at each brand’s pop-up booth, with a total of 62 brands—spanning women’s clothing, unisex, men’s clothing, accessories, and jewelry—scheduled for around 15 buyer consultations each.
Additionally, first introduced at the 2024 Fall/Winter Fashion Week, the showroom tour program will be expanded this year. This program allows buyers to visit designer showrooms for in-depth consultations. Due to its success in enhancing brand understanding and securing orders, the program will now include Hannam, alongside Seongsu and Cheongdam.
A total of 28 brands will participate in the expanded showroom tour, featuring 18 operating showrooms. Each showroom will host approximately six buyer consultation sessions.
Furthermore, this year’s Seoul Fashion Week will introduce a new presentation program aimed at international buyers and media. Designer brands such as Seokwoon Yoon, Eenk, Boncom, Mmam, and Hyosung TNC, a chemical manufacturing company, will present their collections at DDP and Hannam-dong showrooms.
Sustainable fashion will be a key focus of this year’s event, emphasised through presentations, exhibitions, and resource circulation projects. Under this theme, Hyosung TNC will make a presentation on eco-friendly materials, including fabrics made from recycled fishing nets. Designer brand PartsPartswill host an exhibition titled ‘Zero Waste Design Philosophy and Sustainable Fashion.’
Seoul Fashion Week provides a crucial opportunity to Korean designers and brands to create global business prospects, says Choi Pahn-kyu, Head-Creative Industry Planning Bureau, Seoul Metropolitan Government. The tradeshow enables the governmento help international buyers recognise the potential of the K-fashion industry, fostering greater collaboration and achieving tangible results, he adds.
The fashion industry is notorious for its environmental impact accounting for roughly 10 per cent of global carbon emissions according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. From overproduction leading to textile waste to resource-intensive dyeing processes, the need for a sustainable change is clear. Enter on-demand fashion, a revolutionary approach that promises to disrupt the traditional model by producing clothes only after an order is placed.
The need for change
The traditional fashion model relies on ‘made-to-stock’ production. Large quantities of clothing are produced based on forecasts, often leading to excess inventory and ultimately, waste. A 2022 study found the industry generates a staggering 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually. Additionally, many fashion brands have been accused of unethical practices, such as burning unsold clothes. Clearly, the current system is unsustainable.
Environmental impact: The fashion industry is a major polluter, responsible for an estimated 10 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions. Production also generates massive amounts of textile waste, with 92 million tons discarded annually.
Wasteful practices: Traditional ‘made-to-stock’ models lead to overproduction and unsold inventory. Fast fashion, known for trendy, cheap clothing, is a prime culprit.
Ethical concerns: Low wages and unsafe working conditions plague garment workers, particularly in developing countries.
On-demand fashion, a new path
On-demand fashion flips the traditional model on its head. Clothing is only produced when a confirmed order is placed. This eliminates the risk of overproduction and significantly reduces waste. Proponents also envision a more agile supply chain, with smaller production batches and factories located closer to consumers. On-demand fashion dismantles the traditional ‘push’ system, where vast quantities of clothing are produced based on forecasts, often leading to unsold inventory and eventual waste. Instead, it adopts a ‘pull’ system, where garments are manufactured based on confirmed customer orders. This reduces the risk of overstock and minimizes waste generation.
On-demand fashion seeks to:
• Reduce waste: By producing clothes only when needed, on-demand fashion eliminates the risk of overproduction and unsold inventory ending up in landfills.
• Promotes sustainability: On-demand models often incorporate more sustainable practices like using recycled materials and local manufacturing, reducing the environmental impact of transportation.
• Enhances customization: On-demand allows for greater customization options, catering to individual needs and reducing the pressure to follow fleeting trends.
A 2023 study by GlobeNewswire predicts the on-demand fashion market will reach $38.2 billion by 2027. This growth is pushed by the increasing adoption of data analytics. On-demand companies leverage customer data and real-time trends to predict demand more accurately, minimizing the risk of overproduction.
Stitch Fix, a leading personalized styling service, exemplifies the on-demand model. Customers fill out style profiles and receive curated clothing selections based on their preferences. This approach reduces impulse purchases and ensures garments are actually worn. Stitch Fix itself reported a 30 per cent decrease in returns in 2022, highlighting the effectiveness of data-driven personalization in reducing waste. Similarly, The R Collective, a US-based clothing company, uses on-demand manufacturing to create high-quality, ethically made garments. Their model allows for customization and reduces waste by producing clothes only after an order is confirmed. "On-demand fashion empowers us to create clothing that aligns with our values," says Vanessa Liu, Founder, The R Collective. "We can offer unique styles while minimizing our environmental impact."
In fact, several established fashion brands are experimenting with on-demand models. Levi's launched a customization platform allowing customers to personalize their jeans. Patagonia offers a ‘Worn Wear’ program where customers can buy and sell used Patagonia clothing, extending the life cycle of garments. Burberry launched a program offering limited-edition, customizable trench coats produced on-demand. And Adidas introduced a line of customizable sneakers that customers can design and order online.
The business model and scalability
On-demand fashion offers a compelling business model. To begin with it reduces inventory costs as brands don't have to hold large amounts of stock, freeing up capital and storage space. It increases brands’ agility as they have faster response time for trends and customer preference. Has the potential for higher margins, as personalized items can command premium prices.
However, scalability presents challenges. Scaling up production quickly to meet surge demand requires a robust on-demand manufacturing network. Moreover, customers may expect faster delivery times as on-demand production eliminates pre-made stock.
The future of on-demand fashion
While widespread adoption may take time, on-demand fashion offers a promising path towards a more sustainable and ethical garment industry. Initiatives like:
Supply-side innovation: Companies like Unspun (3D weaving) and Silana (robotic sewing) are developing technologies to facilitate efficient on-demand production.
Demand-side education: Consumers need to understand the true cost of fast fashion and embrace a more mindful approach to clothing consumption.
Regulation and transparency: Government regulations like France's Anti-Waste Circular Economy Act can incentivize sustainable practices.
Indeed, the on-demand model necessitates a shift in the traditional fashion supply chain. Localization of manufacturing, near-shoring, and on-demand printing technologies will likely become more prominent. Traditional large-scale manufacturers may need to adapt by offering smaller batch production capabilities. It does hold immense potential for a more sustainable and responsible fashion future. By embracing innovation, educating consumers, and implementing supportive regulations, the industry can move towards a more ethical and environmentally conscious model.
The Textile Exchange’s latest Materials Market Report paints a complex picture of the global fiber market. A market that despite economic headwinds, has shown remarkable resilience, expanding to a record 113 million tonnes in 2021. This highlights a near-doubling in the past two decades, with projections indicating a further increase to 149 million tonnes by 2030 if current trends persist.
However, the report underscores a critical dichotomy: while the market is booming, its environmental footprint is deepening. The dominance of virgin fossil-based synthetic fibers, particularly polyester, is a cause for concern. Despite growing awareness about sustainability, these fibers continue to hold almost 54 per cent market share due to their lower cost. As experts say, the global fiber market is at a crossroads. On one hand, there is unprecedented growth but on the other, we face the looming shadow of unsustainable practices. It's imperative to shift towards more sustainable options.
Cotton, a cornerstone with cracks
Cotton, long considered the king of fibers, is facing a multifaceted challenge. While it remains a staple in wardrobes globally, its market share has dipped, reflecting a complex interplay of factors. The report highlights a decline in cotton grown through sustainable programs, from 27 per cent in 2021 to 24 per cent in 2022. This indicates a need for deeper brand commitment and support for farmers.
Moreover, the cotton industry grapples with issues of water consumption, pesticide use, and land degradation. Despite initiatives like Better Cotton and Organic Cotton, the road to sustainability is still long. Cotton is undoubtedly an important fiber, but its future hinges on addressing sustainability challenges, say experts. One needs to move beyond certifications and create a system that ensures holistic well-being of farmers and the environment.
Manmade fibers, the synthetic surge
Manmade fibers, led by polyester, have experienced meteoric growth. Their low cost, versatility, and performance properties have made them the darling of the fashion industry. However, the report underscores the environmental implications of their production, primarily from fossil fuels.
A glimmer of hope lies in the growing market for recycled manmade fibers, particularly recycled polyester from plastic bottles. While still a small fraction of the overall market, it represents a step in the right direction. Experts point out, the dominance of manmade fibers is a double-edged sword. While they offer immense potential, their environmental impact cannot be ignored. The industry must accelerate its transition to recycled and sustainably produced manmade fibers.
The cotton vs. manmade conundrum
The report doesn't pit cotton against manmade fibers but rather highlights the need for a balanced approach. Both fiber types have their strengths and weaknesses, and the optimal choice often depends on the end product and its intended use. The future, experts suggest, lies in innovation and diversification. Blending cotton with manmade fibers, developing new sustainable materials, and circular economy models are potential pathways forward.
The Textile Exchange’s Materials Market Report serves as a wake-up call for the industry. It underscores the urgent need for a systemic shift towards sustainability. By understanding the dynamics of the global fiber market, stakeholders can make informed decisions and drive positive change.
Burberry, the iconic British fashion house, has found itself in a peculiar position. While the brand has been aggressively increasing prices across its product range, it has simultaneously seen outlet store sales increase. This paradoxical situation raises questions about the sustainability and efficacy of Burberry's strategy.
In recent years, Burberry has implemented substantial price increases, with some products witnessing a jump of up to 20 per cent in a single season. The strategy, ostensibly aimed at boosting the brand’s perceived value, has coincided with a broader industry trend of luxury brands seeking to optimize margins. However, the effectiveness of this approach is being challenged by the brand’s growing reliance on outlet stores. Experts point out, luxury brands walk a fine line between exclusivity and accessibility, while price increases can enhance the perception of luxury, they can also deter potential customers who may feel priced out of the market.
Outlet boom: A silver lining or a warning sign?
Despite the price hikes, Burberry has reported a significant increase in sales from its outlet stores. This suggests that consumers are still drawn to the brand but are unwilling to pay full price for its products. While this may seem like a positive development, it could also indicate a long-term problem. At the same time full-price stores have also reported growth, the disproportionate rise in outlet sales suggests a potential shift in consumer behavior.
Retail analysts say it’s a classic case of luxury dilution. By aggressively increasing prices, Burberry is pushing consumers towards discount channels. This not only erodes brand value but also creates a perception of the brand as less exclusive. The appeal of outlet shopping lies in the promise of luxury at a discounted price. As Burberry’s products become more expensive, consumers are increasingly drawn to outlet stores for perceived value. This trend could have far-reaching consequences for the brand's image.
And as some argue, outlet sales can be a double-edged sword. On one hand, they can help to generate additional revenue. On the other hand, they can damage the brand’s prestige and exclusivity.
Where is this strategy leading?
Burberry's dual strategy of price hikes and outlet expansion is a complex one. On one hand, the brand is attempting to maintain its luxury positioning by increasing prices. On the other, it is catering to a price-sensitive segment of the market through its outlet stores. Burberry has defended its pricing strategy, arguing that it is necessary to maintain the brand’s luxury positioning and offset rising costs. However, the company has yet to provide a clear explanation for the increase in outlet sales.
Some analysts believe that the brand may be overestimating its pricing power. As the global economy faces challenges and consumer spending becomes more cautious, luxury brands may find it increasingly difficult to pass on price increases to customers. Retail experts point out, the luxury market is becoming more competitive. Consumers have more choices and if Burberry continues to raise prices without delivering commensurate value, they risk losing customers to other brands.
Ultimately, the success of Burberry's strategy will depend on its ability to balance price increases with brand desirability. If the brand can successfully communicate the value proposition of its products and maintain a loyal customer base, it may be able to justify higher prices. However, if customers feel they are being overcharged, the consequences could be severe.
The Andhra Pradesh Government has announced plans to introduce a new policy to promote the textile and apparel(T&A) industry in the state.
The government aims to develop the required infrastructure for the development of this industry besides offering incentives and ensuring timely clearances for it, informs S Savitha, Minister of Backward Classes Welfare and Handlooms & Textiles.
The upcoming policy will be an enhanced version of the 2018-23 Textile Policy introduced by the TDP government during its 2014-19 tenure. The earlier policy was subsequently discarded by the YSR Congress Party government, leading to significant challenges for the existing industry and causing potential investors to look to other States for expansion, adds S. Savitha.
The government will provide a comprehensive support to companies interested in establishing their operations in the State, assures S Savitha further asserting, Andhra Pradesh is an ideal destination for investors due to its unique advantages. It ranks second in the country for silk production and is sixth and seventh in the production of cotton and jute, respectively. The State also boasts nine textile and apparel parks, three of which are in the public sector, she adds.
Additionally, Andhra Pradesh is home to 146 mega textile industries and 15 technical textile manufacturing units which attract investors to explore new opportunities in the state. the minister adds.
Vietnam's textile and garment enterprises are intensifying efforts to make their production processes more sustainable by aligning them with environmental standards and regulations regarding product origin.
According to the Ministry of Industry and Trade, the European Green Deal is driving the revision of regulations across the textile and garment industry including eco design requirements for sustainable products, waste directives, and extended producer responsibility programs.
In response to these new demands, May 10 Corporation has been greening its production processes for the past three years. The company has invested in modern machinery and equipment that consume less electricity and has made significant investments in solar energy systems and rooftop power installations. May 10 has also integrated its supply chains both within Vietnam and internationally to maximise the use of recycled and natural materials, ensuring that the fiber content in its products meets customer requirements for origin.
Than Duc Viet, General Director, May 10, emphasises, green production is no longer optional but a mandatory requirement. The company is transitioning from coal-based fuels to biomass electricity to further reduce carbon emissions. By 2024, subject to all its projects being fully operational, the company expects to cut its emissions by more than 20,000 tons annually.
Similarly, the Vietnam National Textile and Garment Group (Vinatex) is implementing carbon reduction strategies by measuring the carbon footprint across product life cycles and developing a green, circular production approach. So far, Vinatex members have reduced electricity consumption per product unit by 2 per cent compared to 2022.
Nguyen ThiTuyet Mai, Deputy Secretary General, VITAS, points out, major global fashion brands are increasingly prioritising green enterprises or requiring suppliers to adopt sustainable practices. This shift not only aligns with their business philosophies but also ensures compliance with increasingly stringent regulations.
However, despite the necessity of meeting green standards, the transition involves significant costs and extended timelines. Most Vietnamese textile exporters are small- and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), making the switch to internal control systems and conducting greenhouse gas inventories both costly and time-consuming.
To navigate these challenges, enterprises are advised to remain flexible in the short term by seizing market opportunities and focusing on technically demanding, small-batch, high-value-added products, rather than competing in the low-cost, mass-market segment.
Gokaldas Exports has deferred its expansion plans for Bangladesh as the country continues to suffer from political unrest. The company had planned to set up a garment factory in the nation.
However, Gokuldas Exports will continue to engage in contract manufacturing in Bangladesh for the time being, says SivaramakrishnanGanapathi, Vice Chairman and Managing Director. The company currently exports to over 50 countries including the US, Canada and various other European nations,
Emphasising the importance of the apparel manufacturing sector to Bangladesh’s economy, Ganapathi states, the country needs to protect and support the industry for its own best interest.
The turmoil in Bangladesh escalated when Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina was forced to step down and flee to India following violent clashes between students and pro-government supporters. What began as peaceful protests against government jobs quota quickly spiraled into deadly unrest, with the UN Human Rights Office reporting that over 600 people have been killed in the protests.
In light of the situation, several leading European companies have approached Gokaldas Exports for assistance in meeting their increased demand, Ganapathi notes. Although sourcing from India instead of duty-free Bangladesh is more expensive for these companies, their inquiries reflect a growing effort by foreign brands to mitigate risks in their supply chains.
Despite recent political upheaval in Bangladesh, including the ousting of Sheikh Hasina's government due to the quota reform movement, several global fashion brands have increased their sourcing from the country.
As per reports by industry insiders, brands from Europe, America, and East Asia have expanded their orders from the country, largely due to proactive efforts by exporters to maintain communication and meet deadlines amid the turmoil. The appointment of Nobel laureate Professor Muhammad Yunus as head of the interim government has reportedly enhanced Bangladesh's international image.
US brands such as US Polo, Gap, and Express are among those that have increased their orders. Korean brand BYC has also started sourcing from Bangladesh. Faruque Hassan, Managing Director, Giant Group, notes,US Polo has become his company's largest buyer, accounting for about 40 per cent of their capacity.
Shovon Islam, Managing Director, Sparrow Groupadds, three US buyers have increased their orders from the group. Theseinclude regular clients like US Polo and Gap, as well as Express, which has ramped up its sourcing following its exit from bankruptcy.
MdSharafatHussainSohail, Masco Group reveals, a top Korean brand has inquired about sourcing from Bangladesh for the first time. His company, which produces around 11 million garments monthly, has not faced significant challenges and is preparing to supply for the next summer season in the EU market.
Many global brands, including G-Star Raw, M&S, H&M, and Inditex, have not imposed penalties for delayed shipments due to recent unrest. For instance, H&M AB has assured its suppliers that it will not seek discounts for delays caused by the factory shutdowns during the protests. Inditex has also confirmed that their business remains stable with no changes in orders or pressure for discounts.
However, Syed Mohammad Tanvir, Managing Director, Pacific Jeans Group, has expressedconcerns over the effect of the political instability on future orders that may potentially lead buyers to shift their sourcing elsewhere.
Certain companies may face order losses due to recent revelations of financial irregularities linked to the ousted regime, notes AK Azad, Managing Director, Hameem Group.
Industry leaders also emphasise challenges such as electricity and gas shortages and congestion at ports and airports. They hope, if the interim government addresses these issues, Bangladesh's apparel industry can expand its global market share.
From August 7 to 9, 2024, the Istanbul Fashion Connection (IFCO) marked its sixth successful edition at the Istanbul Expo Centre, solidifying Turkiye’s position as a pivotal player in the global fashion industry. With 300 exhibitors spread across four halls, the event drew nearly 18,000 visitors, a 13.9 per cent increase in international attendance compared to the previous year. The event's growing appeal is evident, with 35 per cent of attendees hailing from abroad, underscoring Istanbul's strategic importance as a fashion hub.
The event attracted high-ranking buyers from 121 countries, with Asia and the Middle East leading in representation, followed by Europe, North Africa, and the Americas. The rise in international visitors highlights IFCO’s role in bridging fashion markets across continents. Mustafa Paşahan, Vice President of the Istanbul Apparel Exporters' Association (IHKIB), emphasized IFCO’s rapid ascent in the global fashion calendar, positioning Istanbul as a premier destination for fashion, design, and trade.
Diverse exhibitor showcase
IFCO 2024 showcased a diverse array of fashion sectors across 30,000 square meters of exhibition space. The event featured collections in womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, sportswear, evening and wedding wear, lingerie, hosiery, leather, and furs. The designer area, The Core Istanbul, once again captivated attendees with exclusive collections from over 20 established and emerging designers. Among the standout names were ArzuKaprol, MeltemOzbek, and Tuba Ergin, who have already made their mark on the international stage.
ArzuKaprol, a renowned designer, highlighted the significance of IFCO for Turkish design, particularly in fostering new business relationships with buyers from the USA and Russia. She noted the event's success in uniting the international fashion industry, enabling intensive networking and business opportunities.
Retail giants and strategic growth
In the IFCO Brands area, leading market players such as B&G Store, Jakamen, Giotelli, NCS, and 7Camicie showcased their latest collections in meticulously designed stands. These brands, which already have a strong international presence, reported high satisfaction with their participation. CemilKarabel, Vice President of Karabel Group, praised IFCO as an efficient platform for brand presentation, networking, and customer acquisition, particularly in regions like North Africa and the Middle East.
BatuhanKutlu, owner of Gizia, Turkiye's pioneer of the ‘Accessible Luxury’ concept, echoed this sentiment, noting the trade fair's role in connecting Turkish fashion brands with global buyers. Gizia's participation in IFCO resulted in valuable new contacts and expanded customer bases, reinforcing the importance of the event for the industry.
The IFCO B2B Meeting was a highlight of the event, attracting nearly 100 prestigious buyer groups from over 20 countries. Notable participants included major retailers from the USA, UK, UAE, India, and Mexico. These meetings facilitated significant business deals and networking opportunities, further strengthening IFCO's reputation as a critical event for global fashion players.
Trends and innovation at IFCO
This year's IFCO Trend Area, themed ‘Ascension,’ was curated by the Istanbul Moda Academy (İMA), showcasing future-oriented fashion philosophies. The Trend Area explored themes of self-discovery and mindfulness, visualizing concepts such as Zen Revival, Multifaceted, Reclaimed Confession, and Freed. İMA's involvement highlights Turkiye's commitment to nurturing creative talent and innovation in fashion, with international collaborations and educational programs that connect students to global fashion schools and brands.
Turkiye’s fashion industry is increasingly recognized as a global powerhouse, ranking third in clothing and textile exports to the European Union and sixth worldwide. In 2023, the sector achieved exports worth $28.8 billion, with ambitions to reach $40 billion in the near future. Mustafa Gultepe, President of IHKIB and the Turkish Exporters Assembly (TIM), outlined the strategic initiatives aimed at achieving this goal, including digital transformation and sustainable development.
Significant investments, including over €10 million in digital transformation since 2014 and €7 million in sustainable projects in 2021-2022, underscore Turkiye's commitment to maintaining its competitive edge in the global market. The expansion of modern production facilities in eastern Turkiye further aligns with the country's strategic vision.
Looking ahead: IFCO’s continued growth
As IFCO continues to grow, it cements Turkiye's role as a key player in the global fashion industry, bridging East and West. The next edition of IFCO is scheduled for February 5-8, 2025, while Texhibition Istanbul, focusing on fabrics, ingredients, and yarns, will take place from September 11-13, 2024. These events are poised to further enhance Turkiye's influence in the international fashion business.
Testex, a Swissbased independent testing and certification institute and a founding member of Oeko-Tex, has officially joined the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF). Established in 1846 as the "Seidentrocknungsanstalt Zurich" (Silk Conditioning Institute), Testex is recognized for its expertise in testing, analyzing, and certifying textiles and leather. The company now operates with 40 branches and employs around 400 people globally.
Christian Schindler, Director General of ITMF, expressed his enthusiasm for the new partnership, highlighting the crucial role of testing and certification in the textile value chain. He noted that Testex’s involvement will enhance ITMF’s position as a leading international platform for the industry.
Marc Sidler, Group CMO of Testex, emphasized the benefits of joining ITMF, particularly in gaining access to valuable industry insights through ITMF’s publications, statistics, and events. Sidler believes that this membership will deepen Testex's understanding of global textile dynamics and strengthen its connections with associations and companies worldwide.
This partnership marks a significant step in fostering collaboration across the textile industry, with Testex contributing its vast experience to the global conversation on testing and certification.
