FW
Fast fashion's grip on the clothing industry may be loosening, as a growing movement – slow fashion – takes root. Fast fashion, with its emphasis on cheap, trendy clothes and frequent turnovers, has dominated for decades. However, a growing awareness of its environmental and social costs has led to the rise of slow fashion – a movement promoting ethical production, quality garments, and mindful consumption.
The rise of slow fashion, a measured emergence
Data suggests slow fashion is gaining traction. A Global Fashion Agenda 2022 Pulse Survey revealed that 63 per cent of fashion executives believe sustainability will be a key competitive differentiator within the next three years. This shift is driven by a growing consumer base concerned about the environmental and ethical impact of fast fashion. A McKinsey & Company report: states that 60 per cent of millennials are willing to pay a premium for sustainable products. . The rise of resale platforms like ThredUp (reportedly valued at $1 billion in 2021) and Patagonia's worn wear program further highlight a shift in consumer behavior.
Growth drivers: Ethics, environment in focus
Several factors fuel slow fashion's rise. Ethical concerns about garment worker rights and fair wages are a major motivator. The Rana Plaza garment factory collapse in 2013 tragically highlighted the dangers of fast fashion's exploitative practices. Exploitative labor practices in fast-fashion factories have been exposed, pushing consumers towards brands committed to fair wages and safe working conditions. Environmental consciousness is another key driver. A 2020 McKinsey report estimates the fashion industry is responsible for 10 per cent of global carbon emissions. Consumers, particularly millennials and Gen Z, are increasingly concerned about sustainability and are seeking eco-conscious alternatives. Patagonia, a leading outdoor apparel brand, exemplifies this shift. The company prioritizes recycled materials and encourages customers to repair worn-out gear, fostering a culture of mindful consumption. Also, slow fashion emphasizes well-made, timeless pieces that last longer, appealing to those seeking value over fleeting trends.
Challenges in slow fashion's growth
Despite its momentum, slow fashion faces hurdles. Higher production costs due to quality materials and ethical labor practices can translate to steeper price tags making it less accessible to budget-conscious consumers. Transparency throughout the supply chain is another challenge. Consumers need clear information about a garment's origin and production process to make informed choices. While awareness is growing, many consumers remain unfamiliar with slow fashion options or struggle to differentiate between genuine and performative sustainability efforts by brands. Moreover, fast fashion's dominance, aggressive marketing strategies, and convenience still pose a significant challenge.
The embrace of slow fashion varies geographically. Europe, particularly Germany and Scandinavia, leads the way, driven by strong consumer awareness and government regulations promoting sustainability. North America shows promise, with a growing market for eco-conscious brands. As per Grand View Research, the US market projected to reach $25.2 billion by 2025. However, regions like South Asia, where fast fashion's affordability holds strong appeal, may take longer to adapt. A growing middle class and rising awareness of environmental issues could lead to a shift in these regions.
Segment wise, luxury and premium have a higher profit margin, allowing brands to invest in sustainability initiatives more readily. Consumers in these segments are also more likely to prioritize ethical and environmental factors. The value segment presents the biggest challenge. While some affordable slow fashion brands exist, convincing budget-conscious consumers to pay a premium for sustainable clothing requires a shift in mindset and potentially, government incentives.
Womenswear has traditionally been a bigger driver of fashion trends, making it a natural leader in slow fashion adoption. Menswear and kidswear sectors are showing slower growth, possibly due to a more traditional focus on functionality and durability, which slow fashion inherently promotes. However, there's growing interest in sustainable options for these segments as well.
The future of slow fashion is promising. As environmental concerns escalate and consumer awareness grows, slow fashion is expected to continue its upward trajectory. Technological advancements in sustainable materials and production processes, coupled with government support and increased industry transparency, can further accelerate this growth. However, bridging the price gap and effectively communicating the value proposition of slow fashion remain key challenges.
The Tamilnadu Spinning Mills Association (TASMA) has urged Union Textile Minister Giriraj Singh to ensure Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) sells cotton procured through the minimum support price (MSP) programto actual user mills only till the season’s end.
In a letter to the minister, K Venkatchalam, Chief Advisor, TASMA said, the sale of CCI’s stocks in a calibrated manner will enable the cotton textile value chain to sustain its performance, especially in export markets.
TASMA urged Singh to direct CCI to continue to retain the stock without selling to traders and ensure it sells only to user mills till September, the season’s end.
Of the total cotton procured by it, CCI currently holds around 20 lakh bales (170 kg each), which is only around 22 days’ consumption. To ensure the stability of cotton prices, fulfill export commitments and sustain their current performance, it is essential to ensure the availability of home-grown cotton to the cotton spinning mills in India, adds Venkatchalam.
Stating that India has become a ‘cotton-deficit country,’ he said globally, all the cotton-consuming countries maintain 70 to 80 per cent of the annual cotton consumption as reserve stocks.
India had decided to maintain at least 2.5 months’ consumption, as the closing stock which works out to 65-70 lakh bales and the Committee on Cotton Production and Consumption (COCPC) Chaired by the Textile Commissioner has projected 47.38 lakh bales as the closing stock.
Considering the speculative tendency, cotton traders, taking advantage of the 11 per cent import duty on cotton, other than ELS cotton, have been adopting import parity pricing and consequently, increasing the cotton price during the off-season, Venkatachalamalleges.
This is affecting the export performance which is leading to stoppage of production by spinning mills, which would make a cascading effect on the entire textile value chain, he adds.
In a seminar titled ‘Roadmap for Manufacturing Machines and Components for Technical Textiles,’ BhaveshPael, President, ITAMMA, projected the Indian textile industry will grow to $350 billion by 2030 with exports reaching $100 billion.
Titled, ‘Roadmap for Manufacturing Machines and Components for Technical Textiles - with B2B Interactions,’ the seminar was organised by ITAMMA as a part of the “ITAMMA Technology Cell” initiative during ‘Texfair 2024,’ held from June 21-24 in Coimbatore. . According to Patel, India’s fiber production grew to 2.15 million tons in 2022-23 with yarn production reaching 5,185 million kg, driven largely by a demand for natural fiber. He emphasisedon the importance of exhibitions like Texfair as platforms for connecting supply and user industries to address future business needs.
The seminar featured a presentation by SudarsanRajagopalan, a textile engineer with extensive experience in medical textiles. His presentation focused on the immense potential of technical textiles, urging participants to look beyond traditional classifications and embrace high-value, high-volume opportunities. He stressed on the importance of understanding the needs of customers from different industries and forming strategic joint ventures and international associations.
Rajagopalan highlighted the necessity of proper testing, quality benchmarking, compliance with standards, and patenting innovations. He emphasisedon the need for a new talent pool to communicate effectively with end-users and suggested creating special-purpose vehicles (SPVs) and leveraging the National Technical Textile Mission (NTTM) scheme to develop local machines and tools for technical textiles.
The seminar concluded with a call to address the environmental impact of synthetic textiles and the need for efficient disposal processes. ITAMMA announced the formation of a ‘Member-Group for Technical Textile Projects,’ inviting industry experts to provide guidance, consultancy, and turnkey project handling for members exploring opportunities in technical textiles.
Attended by over 240 exhibitors and over 60,000 visitors, the 14th edition of SIMA Texfair 2024 generatedaround Rs. 1000 crores in business. ITAMMA, closely associated with SIMA, executed its services from stall D 112-A and interacted with over 75 exhibitors, inviting them to join ITAMMA.
Reflecting the optimistic outlook of the Indian textile industry fuelled by a boost in the manufacturing sector, signing of new FTAs, recent growth in textile exports, and the government's focus on making India a 'global manufacturing hub, GartexTexprocess India is expected to showcase over 600 brands over 15,000 sq m.
The show is scheduled to be held from Aug 01-03, 2024 at Yashobhoomi (IICC), Dwarka, New Delhi. It will feature global excellence in textile solutions from countries such as China, Italy, Japan, Singapore, Taiwan and the US. Over 200 exhibitors will present their latest innovations from over 600brands across seven countries.
The show will have curated zones for product categories like Knitting, Sewing Machinery, Digital Printing, Embroidery, Fabrics& Trims. The Trims segment will be expanded with the addition of new exhibiting companies to it. The show will also host knowledge sessions with government officials, industry experts, and innovators.
Leading Indian brands like AT Inks, Aura Technologies, BABA Textile Machinery, and Britomatics India alongwithinternational brands includingBaoyou, Brother, Datatex, Dupont, and Jack will participate in the show. The event will launch over a dozen new products by notable brands including Amtex Dye Chem Industries, Behariji Enterprises, Codeverse Technologies, Creative Industries, LNJ Denims, and Panchsheel Enterprises.
Organised byMesse Frankfurt Asia Holdings and MEX Exhibitions, GartexTexprocess will showcase new innovations in the Indian textile industry besides presenting a transformative display of textile manufacturing machinery, garments, fabrics, denim, trims, and accessories.
Despite the global economic and political landscape, India’s textile and apparel exports increased by 9.59 per cent and 9.70 per cent respectively in May 2024, as per a report by the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI). Growing at a CAGR of 10 per cent, the Indian textiles and apparel market is projected to reach$350 billion by 2030, with exports hitting$100 billion, adds another report by IBEF. The sector will expand with new innovations from fabric and garment manufacturers, textile machinery companies, and future government policies.
A recent meeting between a Chinese delegation including representatives from leading garment and textile companies, and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), explored trade and investment opportunities in the textile and apparel sectors of the two countries.
Both sides highlighted the potential for expanding business ventures, emphasising Bangladesh’s capabilities in producing high-value, man-made fiber-based garments and its ongoing efforts to upgrade technological infrastructure.
The BGMEA delegation was led by SM Mannan (Kochi), President while the Chinese side was represented by XuJinshan, President, Fujian Qunfeng Machinery Co The meeting was also attended by MdNasirUddin, Vice President-Finance, BGMEA, Rajiv Chowdhury and MdJakirHossain, Directors and Solaiman, Director , M & H Corporation. From the Chinese delegation, XuJinshan, Chen Qi Ping, and Yang Ming Ming participated in the discussions.
BGMEA leaders underscored Bangladesh’s growing focus on high-value products, particularly man-made fiber-based garments, and upgrading technology and machinery to enhance manufacturing capabilities. They also emphasised on the prospects of Chinese investment in Bangladesh’s high-end textile and backward linkage industries, noting that such investment would benefit both parties.
The participants expressed optimism about collaborative efforts aimed at increasing Bangladesh’s garment production capacity through knowledge exchange and technical skill enhancement.
Bangladesh’s garment exports to major markets, namely the US and the EU, declined during the latter half of the current fiscal year.
As per data from the US Department of Commerce’s Office of Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA), in the first four months of the 2024, Bangladesh’s apparel exports to the US declined by 14.44 per cent to $2.31 billion compared to $2.70 billion in the same period last year. Additionally, the combined textile and garment exports from Bangladesh to the US fell by 14.15 per centY-o-Y to $2.38 billion.
Factors contributing to this decline included inflationary pressures, increased production costs, lead times, and an energy crisis. Increased lead times caused shipment delays, a significant disadvantage compared to competitors like Vietnam and Cambodia. In the past, Bangladesh had mitigated this issue with cheap labor and large-scale production of low-end apparel products. However, inflation and the energy crisis exacerbated the challenges in garment exports.
Meanwhile, Vietnam's exports to the US grew by 0.31 per cent during the period with the country becoming the largest RMG exporter to the US. US apparel imports from Cambodia also increased by 7.92 per cent to $1.03 billion compared to $951.93 million in the same period in 2023.
The situation in the EU is similarly troubling. from Jan-Apr’24 Bangladesh's RMG exports to the EU fell by 9.85 per cent to €6.01 billion as against €6.67 billion in the same period in 2023, according to Eurostat data. Despite slightly reducing negative growth, Bangladesh still underperformed compared to competitors in the EU market due to an energy crisis, high utility costs, increased production costs, long lead times, and cumbersome customs procedures. Knitwear exports to the EU dropped to €3.38 billion from €3.88 billion, and woven garment exports declined to €2.64 billion from €2.79 billion during the same period.
Exporters note that despite a recent increase in US demand for apparel and growing EU imports, Bangladesh failed to capture a larger market share due to factors like longer shipment times and higher production costs. Buyers have been placing more orders with Vietnam and China, primarily due to shorter delivery times. Exporters report that lead times for importing and processing exports have increased to 70-80 days from the previous 50-55 days.
Lead time is a significant deterrent for importers placing work orders with Bangladesh. Equally important issues include logistical and infrastructure limitations and an unstable energy supply. One way to reduce lead times is by increasing the local supply of raw materials and accessories. Despite substantial investment in the textile sector to meet export demands, unstable energy supply has led most mills to operate below capacity.
Gas and power shortages, ongoing for about a year, now threaten almost the entire industrial sector, including textiles, RMG, light engineering, fertilizer, and cement. Textile mills are particularly affected, operating at 60-70 per cent capacity due to energy shortages, causing buyers to redirect orders to China and Vietnam for quicker deliveries. Around 300 textile mills in various regions are struggling to remain operational.
Artistic Garment Industries (AGI) Denim, a B Corp with over 30 years in denim manufacturing, is advancing its offerings through innovation and sustainability. AGI Denim oversees the entire production process, from yarn spinning to garment finishing, ensuring quality control and efficiency.
This year, AGI Denim launched The Agency, an in-house creative service providing clients with tools such as trend decks, fit catalogs, wash stacks, and rapid prototyping in both digital and physical formats. Lizzie Kroeze, AGI Denim's director of product development and marketing for the EU and UK, emphasized The Agency's role in supporting brands with market intel, fiber and dye technology, fit and sustainable wash development, and marketing materials.
In line with its sustainability commitment, AGI Denim partnered with Green Story in April to implement Digital Product Passports, which offer clients transparent sustainability data through QR codes. This initiative helps brands meet new regulatory requirements and promotes trust with consumers.
AGI Denim also launched the Regenerative Cotton Farm Project in May, collaborating with the Rural Education and Economic Development Society (REEDS) to promote sustainable agricultural practices in Sindh, Pakistan. This project aims to provide Regenagri-certified, traceable regenerative cotton, grown with minimal water and chemicals, enhancing biodiversity and soil carbon-sequestration.
Kroeze envisions a future where the denim industry adopts regenerative agricultural practices and makes informed decisions to minimize environmental impact. AGI Denim aims to lead this transformation by fostering strong partnerships and creating innovative, sustainable solutions.
Lenzing Group has introduced its new Black Towel Collection, featuring LenzingEcovero and Tencel branded black fibers. This collection includes a range of essential personal care items—makeup removal pads, towels, gym towels, bath towels, hand towels, hair bonnets, and beach towels—all designed to meet the increasing demand for sustainable, high-quality daily essentials.
Unlike traditional disposable products and conventional reusable towels prone to staining, the Black Towel Collection is crafted from responsibly produced fibers. These towels combine LenzingEcovero Viscose and Tencel Modal fibers with cotton, offering exceptional softness, durability, and color vibrancy.
The unique spin-dyeing process used for these towels reduces energy and water use by 50 per cent, significantly lowering carbon emissions by 60 per cent compared to traditional dyeing methods. This process ensures long-lasting color and minimizes discoloration, even with repeated washes.
The collection's fibers, sourced from certified wood, use 50 per cent less carbon and water, and the LenzingEcovero Viscose fibers are biodegradable and compostable. The towels' chlorine-resistant properties extend their lifespan, making them an ideal choice for both everyday and specialized use.
EbruBayramoglu of Lenzing highlights this collection as a sustainable alternative to traditional cotton towels, addressing the growing consumer demand for environmentally friendly personal care products.
Europe's premier responsible sourcing event, Source Fashion, will be held at Olympia London from July 14-16, 2024. This major fashion sourcing show highlights the UK’s top manufacturers, suppliers, and fashion industry leaders.
Event Director Suzanne Ellingham highlights the UK's strong reputation in fabric and garment manufacturing. She underscores that the event aims to support the UK fashion industry by linking visitors with local manufacturing options. Source Fashion will present a diverse lineup of exhibitors from different sectors, showcasing innovative products and sustainable practices.
Among the key exhibitors is Figastore, a Leicester-based womenswear supplier renowned for its quick sample turnaround and full design services. With factories in the UK, Morocco, and Pakistan, the company looks forward to engaging with new brands and retailers. Design Manager Rosie Clarke expresses excitement about returning to Source Fashion to broaden their network and highlight their capabilities.
TS Knitwear UK, a family-run business established in 1976, will showcase its high-tech knitwear and jersey collections. Leveraging advanced knitting technology and dyeing facilities in France, the company offers flexibility and innovation in its products. Director CharanjitBiring expresses enthusiasm about presenting their latest designs and sustainable manufacturing processes to a global audience.
Varsity City, the UK’s leading supplier of authentic American varsity jackets, is also set to make its mark. Founder Syed Kazmi expresses enthusiasm about showcasing their products in London and meeting international buyers.
A standout innovation at the event will be BoomerangTag, a solution for lost property management using digital nametags. Founder Charles Braham aims to address global lost property issues and promote a circular economy.
Other notable exhibitors include Shirley, offering expert testing and Oeko-Tex certification services, National Weaving, specializing in woven and printed labels, and Trade Fabrics, with its extensive range of knitted and printed fabrics.
Source Fashion will also feature pavilions from global powerhouses like China, India, and Turkey, as well as representatives from countries including Peru, Cambodia, and Greece, making it the most diverse sourcing show in the UK.
Karl Mayer has introduced the RE 4-1 Raschel machine, designed to enhance efficiency in producing highly elastic textiles. This new model expands the company's Elastomeric series and complements the existing RE 4-1 machine, focusing on the volume business with a compelling price-performance ratio. It promises to match the speed and quality of its premium counterpart.
The RE 4-1 is designed to be highly appealing to price-sensitive markets, including China and Turkey, by offering cost-effective production of standard Power net articles. The 170-inch model has already achieved notable success in China, and a new 190-inch version will be introduced to global markets starting in July 2024. Sascha Muller, Product Owner Global Lace &Raschel at Karl Mayer, highlighted the machine's effectiveness in these markets.
Equipped with E 28 and E 32 gauges, and optional features like yarn tension sensors and LED lighting, the RE 4-1 is optimized for producing elastic and non-elastic fabrics, primarily for the lingerie market. It excels in manufacturing Power net, a key material in bras, sportswear, and swimwear, as well as other fabrics like RaschelLocknit and Satin net.
The machine’s debut at ITM 2024 in Istanbul was well-received, reinforcing Karl Mayer's strategic direction in the market.
