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Offering a temporary relief to powerloom weavers in Surat, the Union Ministry of Textiles has delayed the imposition of an anti-dumping duty on nylon yarn.
The decision was prompted by a petition filed by nylon spinners Century Enka and Orilon, who sought an anti-dumping duty citing substantial losses caused by the influx of low-cost imported nylon yarn. However, powerloom leaders, including Mayur Golwala, Ashish Gujarati, and Vimal Bekawala, vocally opposed the petition. They challenged the spinners' claims of financial distress and warned that imposing additional duties would harm the weaving sector.
Golwala emphasized, the Ministry of Textiles had previously advised against anti-dumping duties in 2020. He also highlighted the steady growth in domestic nylon yarn production, which has kept pace with imports in recent years.
Emphasisng on the need for high-quality yarn, industry representatives pointed out, many Surat weaving units have invested in high-speed machines with capacities of 300 to 1,200 rpm, requiring superior yarn quality. Domestic spinners currently struggle to meet this demand, forcing weavers to depend on imported yarn to maintain operations.
Outlining the potential consequences of restricting nylon yarn imports, Ashish Gujarati, Former President, Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI), points out, Surat’s textile industry consumes supports approximately 80, 000 weaving machines besides employing 1 lakh workers by consuming 8,000-10,000 tons of nylon FDY yarn monthly. Any import restrictions could lead to machine shutdowns, turning them into scrap and causing widespread unemployment, he warns
Weaver leaders also refuted claims that imported yarn was responsible for the financial distress of companies like Praful Overseas, which recently became a non-performing asset (NPA). They argued, multiple factors contribute to an NPA status and rejected the notion that imported yarn was the sole cause. Instead, they asserted that imposing duties would merely increase profits for spinners at the expense of weavers and the broader textile sector.
The government’s decision to delay the imposition of anti-dumping duties has provided much-needed relief to Surat’s powerloom weavers. Industry leaders view the move as essential for sustaining Surat’s position as a major MMF textile hub, preserving jobs, and ensuring continued growth.
Year 2024 proved to be a dynamic one for the global apparel sector, marked by a complex interplay of economic, social, and technological forces. This report looks at the key trends, challenges, and triumphs that shaped the industry, examining its performance against projections, highlighting winners and losers in global trade, and offering an outlook for 2025.
Factors that shaped 2024
Several factors exerted significant influence on the apparel industry in 2024.
Economic volatility: Global economic uncertainty, pushed up by inflationary pressures and geopolitical tensions, impacted consumer spending and supply chain stability.
Sustainability concerns: Consumers increasingly demanded ethical and sustainable practices, pushing brands to adopt eco-friendly materials and transparent production processes.
Technological advancements: Automation, AI, and data analytics continued to reshape manufacturing, design, and retail experiences.
Shifting consumer preferences: Demand for personalized experiences, comfort-driven apparel, and inclusive sizing grew, forcing brands to adapt.
While the year began with cautious optimism, growth projections were tempered by economic headwinds.
|
Metric |
Projected growth |
Actual growth |
|
Global Apparel Market Value |
4.50% |
3.80% |
|
E-commerce Share |
25% |
27% |
|
Sustainable Apparel Market |
15% |
18% |
(Source: Statista, McKinsey & Company)
The apparel sector showed resilience, exceeding expectations in e-commerce adoption and sustainable apparel sales. However, overall market growth fell slightly short of projections due to inflationary pressures and reduced consumer spending in key markets.
Winners and losers in global trade The global apparel trade landscape witnessed shifts in 2024 with some clear winners and losers.
Winners
Bangladesh: Continued its strong performance in fast fashion exports, capitalizing on its competitive labor costs and efficient production capabilities.
Vietnam: Further solidified its position as a key manufacturing hub, attracting investment from major brands seeking to diversify their supply chains.
India: Witnessed growth in exports of high-value garments and textiles, driven by government initiatives and a skilled workforce.
Losers
China: Faced challenges due to rising labor costs, trade tensions, and a shift towards higher-value production in other countries.
Cambodia: Experienced a slowdown in export growth due to concerns over labor rights and political instability.
Table 1: Apparel exports in $ million
|
Country |
2023 |
2024 |
% Change |
|
China |
158 |
150 |
-5.10% |
|
Bangladesh |
42 |
45 |
+7.1% |
|
Vietnam |
40 |
43 |
+7.5% |
|
India |
20 |
23 |
+15% |
|
Cambodia |
8 |
8.5 |
+6.3% |
Table 2: Apparel imports in $ million
|
Country |
2023 |
2024 |
% Change |
|
EU |
220 |
215 |
-2.30% |
|
USA |
180 |
175 |
-2.80% |
|
Japan |
35 |
33 |
-5.70% |
|
Canada |
20 |
19 |
-5.00% |
|
Australia |
15 |
14 |
-6.70% |
(Source: WTO, World Bank) Innovations shaping the industry
2024 saw significant strides in apparel innovation. For example, 3D printing and customization were strong trends. On-demand manufacturing and personalized designs gained traction, reducing waste and catering to individual preferences. Integration of technology into fabrics, enabling features like temperature regulation, health monitoring, and interactive elements also became populer. And brands explored clothing rental, resale platforms, and recycling programs to minimize environmental impact. For example, Adidas's ‘Made to be Remade’ initiative, where garments are designed for circularity, allowing consumers to return them for recycling and receive credit towards new purchases, gained significant attention in 2024.
Challenges faced
Despite progress, the apparel sector grappled with significant challenges. Supply chain disruptions were primary due to geopolitical instability, climate change events, and transportation bottlenecks continued to disrupt supply chains, leading to delays and increased costs. Sustainability concerns also increased as greenwashing remained a concern, with brands facing scrutiny over the authenticity of their sustainability claims. At the same time, ethical sourcing and fair wages continued to be a pressing concern, particularly in low-cost manufacturing hubs.
Looking forward to 2025
The upcoming year has its own promises. As Achim Berg, Senior Partner, McKinsey & Company puts it, "The apparel industry is at a critical juncture. Brands that embrace innovation, prioritize sustainability, and adapt to evolving consumer needs will be best positioned for success in 2025 and beyond."
In 2025, anticipated global economic recovery may boost consumer confidence and spending, driving market growth. At the same time, the continued integration of AI, data analytics, and omnichannel strategies will be crucial for success. And brands will need to embed sustainability across their entire value chain to meet consumer expectations and regulatory requirements.
The opportunities are many. Expect to see further growth in personalized apparel and on-demand manufacturing. Meanwhile, the circular economy will gain momentum, with increased investment in resale platforms and clothing rental services. And brands will prioritize inclusivity in sizing, representation, and product offerings.
The maiden bridal collection launched by fashion label Nobody’s Child blends timeless romance with latest fashion trends. The collection includes dresses for both the bride and the bridesmaid.
Comprising 12 styles, Nobody’s Child’s debut bridal collection offers styles ranging from minimalist to soft, fluid tailoring in ivory shades with heavy satin, jacquards and crepe styles.
The bridesmaid collection includes 25 ‘versatile’ designs in a pastel color palette of pale pink, lemon and green, alongside deeper hues of navy and forest green. Thin strap cowl neck designs sit alongside off-the-shoulder floor length, halter neck and empire line styles.
The launch of this collection follows the brand’s foray into the beauty sector and launch of a sustainable fragrance, body and home collection.
The label also launched its debut accessories collection including bags, bows, corsage scrunchies, jewelry, sunglasses and caps.
Devendra Fadnavis, Chief Minister, Maharashtra Government recently urged for the establishment of the Maharashtra Technical Textile Mission (MTTM) and Maharashtra State Textile Development Corporation (MSTDC) in the state. He also highlighted on the state’s participation in Bharat Textile 2025 in New Delhi.
Emphasising on the need to invite Expressions of Interest (EOIs) for setting up technical textile parks across the state, Fadnavis also emphasised on the importance of implementing the Captive Market Scheme effectively to boost the local textile industry. He directed officials to implement an age-old pension scheme to ensure the social security of an old-age pension scheme for their social security.
Emphasising on innovation and efficiency within the textile department, Phadnavis instructed officials to digitise and automate schemes to improve operations. Furthermore, he encouraged increased use of solar energy in spinning mills across Maharashtra.
Under the Integrated and Sustainable Textile Policy 2023-28, Fadnavis called for developing Urban Haat centers. These centers aim to promote and support handloom artisans. He also proposed collaboration with Prasar Bharati to broadcast ‘Kargha,’ a series on the traditional textile industry.
The Chief Minister's directives included measures to support handloom weavers through social security initiatives. The old-age pension scheme is part of these efforts, ensuring financial stability for weavers in their later years. This initiative aligns with broader goals to sustain traditional crafts and provide economic support.
Fadnavis's focus on technical textiles reflects a strategic approach to modernising Maharashtra's textile sector. By establishing MTTM and MSTDC, the state aims to foster growth and innovation in this field. Participation in Bharat Tex 2025 further underscores Maharashtra's commitment to advancing its textile industry on a national platform.
Struggling with severe financial challenges, pivotal cotton research institution, the Pakistan Central Cotton Committee (PCCC) plans to transfer its operations to the All Pakistan Textile Mills Association (APTMA) or the National Agricultural Research Centre (NARC).
Criticizing the PCCC for its inefficiency, the Economic Coordination Committee (ECC) has recommended its dissolution. A key factor in the committee's financial troubles is the refusal of textile millers to pay the cotton cess—a Rs 50 levy per cotton bale—which funds the PCCC’s operations. It has reduced employee salaries by 50 per cent, and pensions by 80 per cent since June 2022.
The government allocated Rs 656 million in the federal budget for FY2024-25 to cover employee-related expenses, following earlier supplementary grants and loans that proved insufficient. Despite this, the PCCC remains financially unstable.
Established in 1948 under the Cotton Cess Act of 1923, the PCCC operates under the Ministry of National Food Security and Research. Its mandate includes cotton research, production enhancement, and marketing improvement. However, resistance to cess payments has crippled the committee's ability to fulfill its responsibilities.
The ECC has tasked the Ministry of National Food Security with preparing a case for the Cabinet Committee on Rightsizing to determine the future of cotton research. The ministry has also been directed to consult the Attorney General and provincial advocate generals to expedite court case resolutions.
The ECC has proposed shifting cotton research to the private sector, suggesting that transferring the PCCC to APTMA could better align research with industry needs. Alternatively, integrating the PCCC into NARC could embed its work within broader agricultural research efforts.
As the government weighs its options, the fate of the PCCC remains uncertain, highlighting the urgent need for a sustainable approach to revitalize Pakistan’s cotton sector.
Smartex’s mission to transform the textile and fashion industry through zero-waste and full transparency remains unwavering, thanks to the invaluable support of clients, distributors, investors, partners, and friends.
This year, Smartex inspected nearly 100,000 km of fabric, achieving remarkable savings in fabric, water, carbon dioxide, and energy. The ‘Smartex Inspected Fabrics’ Advantage proved 10x more impactful in reducing inefficiencies across knitting, dyeing, and garment factories.
Key outcomes from Smartex’s efforts in 2024 include an impressive 80 per cent reduction in garment waste, leading to significant cost savings and environmental benefits. Fabric waste was reduced by 50 per cent, turning inefficiencies into increased profitability. Additionally, cutting panels saw a 30 per cent increase, optimizing resource utilization across the supply chain. Smartex also achieved a reduction of 3 cents per garment, further enhancing profitability for brands and solidifying its role in driving sustainable industry transformation.
Smartex forged impactful industry partnerships in 2024, including a innovative initiative with a Portuguese facility collaborating with Zara and Hugo Boss. This facility became the first in the industry to specifically request and pay a premium for Smartex Inspected Fabrics. Additionally, a successful pilot project with H&M in Bangladesh catalyzed factory-wide adoption of Smartex technology, demonstrating its value in improving efficiency and quality across the supply chain.
Smartex technology now handles intricate fabrics like jacquard and tubular, overcoming challenges with 99 per cent flawless inspections and 90 per cent+ accurate machine stops. Core Hardware V2 upgrades increased reliability, resilience, and speed for seamless operations.
Smartex showcased innovations at events worldwide, including DTG Dhaka, Bharat Tex, Knit Tech, H&M Tech Forum, Indo Intertex, Saigon Tex, Igatex, ITM, CAITME, and ITMA Asia. Partnerships with six OEMs strengthened the industry’s adoption of cutting-edge solutions.
Looking to 2025, Smartex aims to scale supply chain efficiency initiatives, driving waste reduction, garment quality improvement, and sustainability. Expanded partnerships with garment facilities and brands will continue transforming the industry.
The MTF 2.0 Report released this year provides a roadmap for sustainable, data-driven supply chain transformation, reinforcing Smartex’s leadership in operational excellence.
From product upgrades to strengthened global partnerships, Smartex is setting a new standard for a sustainable and profitable textile-fashion future.
Addressing yield challenges in rain-fed cotton growing regions, Cotton Association of India (CAI) has urged the government to grant funds worth Rs 500 crore to help farmers implement drip irrigation systems.
Speaking at the association’s annual general meeting, Atul Ganatra, President, CAI highlighted, around 67 per cent of India's cotton production relies on rainfall, leading to inadequate water supply during critical flowering and fruiting stages.
This yield disparity between rain-fed and irrigated areas is particularly pronounced in Maharashtra, where approximately 95 per cent of cotton cultivation depends on rainfall.
Similar challenges affect cotton-growing regions in Madhya Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka, and Gujarat. The proposed drip irrigation technology could potentially save 40-60 per cent of water compared to traditional flood irrigation methods.
The association has also called for the removal of import duties, including 5 per cent Basic Customs Duty, 5 per cent Agriculture Infrastructure Development Cess, and 1 per cent Social Welfare Charge, being implemented since 2021-22, to facilitate more affordable cotton imports.
CAI estimates, from 12.68 million hectare in the previous year, cotton acreage in India is expected to decline by over 10 per cent to 11.36 million hectare during 2024-25.
Combined with excessive rainfall damage in major growing regions, this reduction is likely to cause a 7.70 percent decline in production to 30.22 million bales, compared to 32.74 million bales last year.
As per CAI forecasts, from 1.52 million bales last year, India’s cotton imports are likely to rise to 2.5 million bales in 2024-25, while exports are expected to decline to 1.8 million bales from 2.83 million bales.
Reflecting a global price reduction of 13-15 per cent, India’s cotton prices declined from 2.54 to 3.5 per cent.
Scheduled from January 8, 2025-January 12, 2025, at the International Convention City in Dhaka, the highly anticipated international exhibition, Garment Technology Bangladesh (GTB) 2025, will create a comprehensive platform to cater to the sourcing needs of the country’s ready-made garment (RMG) sector. The trade show will be held concurrently with the 14th edition of GAPXPO 2025,
Positioned as the premier event for RMG manufacturers seeking the latest technology and equipment for the last 22 years, Garment Technology Bangladesh will showcase state-of-the-art sewing, finishing, and embroidery machinery products from global technology providers, alongside a variety of allied products. A favored destination for RMG makers seeking innovative solutions, this curated platform helps enhance their operations.
Expected to attract decision makers, technical experts and sourcing teams from across the nation, GTB 2025 will help them explore latest advancements in garment technology and procure essential equipment for their businesses.
Recognised as one of the largest trade fairs in Southeast Asia, Garment Technology Bangladesh 2025 will not only display cutting-edge technologies but also provide attendees with the opportunity to engage in discussions with world-renowned experts in the field.
On track for substantial growth, revenues from the Australian apparel market are likely to increase to $21.72 billion by the end of 2024, according to Statista. This growth is expected to continue at a CAGR of 2.21 per cent from 2024 to 2029.
Within the Australian market, the women’s apparel segment is projected to generate $11.86 billion in 2024 followed by men’s apparel at $6.35 billion and children’s clothing, which is expected to reach $3.51 billion.
In terms of consumer spending, Australians are expected to spend an average of $812.90 per person on apparel in 2024, reflecting strong engagement with fashion products. By 2029, the Australian apparel market is forecast to reach 1.8 billion items, translating to an average of 63.8 pieces per person in 2024.
While smaller in scale compared to global giants like the US, which is set to lead the apparel market with expected revenues of $359 billion in 2024, Australia's apparel sector shows considerable potential for growth in the coming years.
As a part of its strategy to explore new sourcing destinations while reducing local garment production in Russia, Gloria Jeans plans to increase sourcing from Bangladesh by 30 per cent in 2025. Moyeen Ahmed, Regional General Manager-Bangladesh, India, and Pakistan, highlights, the company already significantly boosted sourcing from Bangladesh last year and intends to expand this further in 2025.
The move follows Gloria Jeans’ exit from the Uzbekistan market and plans to shut down several production units in Russia. The company aims to shift a part of its production to Bangladesh, alongside China and Vietnam. However, high duties on Bangladesh’s apparel exports to Russia remain a challenge, making its products less price-competitive compared to Vietnam.
Despite these obstacles, Gloria Jeans has experienced steady growth in Bangladesh over the past three years. Moyeen emphasizes on the importance of government support to reduce these high duties. Negotiations to lower duties are yet to succeed, but if Bangladesh can secure duty exemptions, it could become Russia’s largest apparel supplier, unlocking vast export opportunities.
A significant factor behind the company’s success in Bangladesh is strategic advancements in research and development (R&D). Local suppliers have supported Gloria Jeans by providing high-quality fabric, enabling the brand to use over 90 per cent locally sourced materials for denim production. This has helped Gloria Jeans recover and expand its operations in Bangladesh, which previously exported large volumes of shirts and chinos to Russia.
For 2025, Gloria Jeans aims for an annual turnover of $70 million, with denim playing a key role. Bangladesh’s denim suppliers currently account for about one-third of Russia’s denim imports, with leading exporters like ABA Group and Square Group. The company also sources jersey knitwear, sweaters, and outerwear from Bangladesh.
However, high duties—such as 30 per cent on denim and 35 per cent on jackets—pose a major barrier. Vietnam benefits from duty-free access to Russia, giving it a competitive edge. If Bangladesh can resolve these issues, it could become a leading supplier to Russia, driving significant growth for both Gloria Jeans and the country’s garment industry.
