A fascinating look into the labor practices of high-end Italian craftsmanship revealed a revolutionary philosophy at the recent 'Italian Fashion Days in India': emotional well-being dictates product quality, and employers must pay a premium for it. While many global manufacturers focus on minimizing labor costs, a leader from the Neapolitan tailoring industry explained why their artisans are paid nearly double the national average—because a stitch done with anger will "suffer."

The philosophy of Capa Frisca

During the discussions, a leader from the Neapolitan tailoring industry, Antonio De Matteis, CEO of Kiton and President of Pitti Immagine offered a unique perspective on labor economics, arguing that for the highest level of artisanal work, the emotional state of the worker is the most critical input.

The philosophy centers on the Neapolitan term "capa frisca," which translates roughly to having "few thoughts" or a clear mind. The premise is that in highly detailed, handmade work—where the product is literally stitched with the hands and soul—any anxiety, tension, or anger from the artisan will compromise the final product. "If you want to be angry, you don't put the point where it should be, but you put it with anger. And if you put it on the table, it suffers," Antonio explained.

Investing in contentment

To achieve this state of contented focus, the company pursues a radical labor strategy: its artisans are very well paid, earning nearly double the average Italian wage. This high compensation is considered a necessary cost of quality, directly linked to achieving the "capa frisca."

This practice, initiated by the founder Fino Colone, is essential for maintaining the meticulous, highly artisanal nature of their product. It ensures that the people working around the table are happy and focused, allowing them to deliver the precision and "soul" that define true Neapolitan tailoring. Beyond wages, the company also incorporates measures like two coffee breaks to let the workers' eyes rest, demonstrating a holistic approach to employee welfare.

Beyond the economic count

Ultimately, this labor model reflects a core Italian characteristic that transcends simple market calculations. The true Italian ethos, according to the speaker, is a non-economic desire to "do the best in the world" and to "serve the neighbor"—a value that extends to their clients, whether Italian, European, or Indian.

This intrinsic pleasure in performing the highest quality work, even "before the economic count," is what has allowed Italian fashion, furnishing, and cuisine to make a difference globally. The Neapolitan model, therefore, represents a perfect fusion of cultural passion and sound business logic: investing in the happiness of the artisan is the highest form of quality control.

The insights shared by industry leaders, including the Neapolitan tailoring executive, were presented on Day 2 in Mumbai as part of the broader 'Italian Fashion Days in India' (Le Giornate della Moda Italiana nel Mondo). This three-city initiative (New Delhi, Mumbai, and Ahmedabad), held from October 28-30, marked a significant new step in the strategic partnership between Italy and India and was a key component of Italy's "Diplomacy and Growth Strategy."