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Jeanologia has been continuously creating new technologies which help the industry in its eco sustainable initiative. One of the company’s latest developments is the light scraper. This is a new generation laser which creates effect on garments and designs patterns of the fabrics. The laser can create yarn effects on denim garment which seem to originate from the fabric structure.
For instance, if a normal OE denim fabric has been used to create a garment, then the light scraper can create different yarn patterns on the garment to give the looks like ring slub, cross hatch, multi count etc. So instead of just giving a washed look to the garment, the laser will also change the look of fabric structure, giving more options to manufacturers to design their garments and create value addition.
This is a new technology which can create hand sanding or a scraping look in the fabric. It is a complete revolution because from one fabric it is possible to have the look of several fabrics and for the first time the human hand can be eliminated completely.
Jeanologia has concentrated on five different kind of slub looks initially to be created on the garment.
www.jeanologia.com/
Vietnam's garment and textile export turnover is likely to increase 19 per cent over last year. This will be the largest increase in three years. The industry's efforts in the strategic direction of production, and increasing localisation, have helped increase competitiveness. To date, the sector has raised the localisation rate to more than 50 per cent.
The negotiation of free trade agreements has promoted the growth of the industry and is attracting orders from other countries. The next challenge for the sector will be the Trans-Pacific Partnership, which is expected to open up huge opportunities for Vietnam's garment and textile industry. However, companies will need to improve their productivity, quality, and competitiveness and invest in new technologies, machinery and innovation, in order to compete effectively.
Since the reunification of its northern and southern regions, Vietnam has become a strong player in the global textile market. The textile and apparel industry plays a major role in increasing the country's prosperity. The Vietnamese textile industry, with more than 3,800 companies, is leading the export sector. State-owned enterprises make up just 0.5 per cent of Vietnam's businesses and 75 per cent are joint stock or limited companies. The country ranks fifth worldwide in textile and apparel exports.
Bangladesh has set a target of reaching $50 billion in readymade garment exports by 2021. This is not unrealistic, given the potential and growth momentum of the sector over the years. But at the same time the setbacks triggered by the incidents of fire, factory collapse and labor unrest in recent years have cast an ominous shadow.
The situation prevailing now, reflects numerous difficulties and challenges that might have a multiplier negative effect on both production and exports. The readymade garment sector is the key contributor to the country's economy. Like other manufacturing sectors, it faces shortage of energy, skilled manpower and poor infrastructure, those that are equally challenging relate to wage and workplace safety constraints compounded by demands of labor unions and rights group activists.
Movement of cargo from factory sites to ports is extremely time-consuming. Producing goods for export has become expensive. Inspection of factories by Accord and Alliance, the EU and US-based retailer groups respectively, will require most factories to spend a lot to meet safety standards.
The sector needs a roadmap to negotiate ahead. Given that the basic infrastructure needs cannot be met overnight, efforts must be wholehearted to improve the situation as quickly as possible.
Kenya wants to make a mark in global textile segment. The government is trying to lure textile manufacturers with a new subsidy, this year slashing the cost of power. It’s believed the sector can create 3,00,000 jobs if given the push it needs to grab a larger slice of the global clothing market.
Global buyers are weighing Africa up against Bangladesh. The death of over 1,000 workers in a 2013 factory collapse in Bangladesh, are forcing them to re-evaluate their sourcing. Safety issues in a factory can damage a brand’s image. Africa on the other hand appears to offer a series of advantages – it has water, cotton, labor and green energy. Unlike Bangladesh, African countries also have duty-free access to the US apparel market under the African Growth and Opportunity Act. (AGOA)
Ethiopia has set up functioning business parks for factories. Kenyans are expert clothes makers. The largest apparel factory in Kenya, Ashton Apparel, is growing and turns over a $100 million a year. The business produces denim for H&M, Walmart and others. However, Kenya’s apparel industry is still small, with an estimated 30,000 workers. The industry comprises only six per cent of the small manufacturing sector.
Gap is trying to create transparent working conditions in Asian garment factories. For this, it is partnering with an investment fund which hopes to raise a billion dollars and transform the Asian garment factories that make much of the world’s clothing. The fund’s pitch to factory owners is that its capital and ideas will help turn a decent facility into a high class one.
The fund intends to buy minority stakes in factories and then upgrade environmental standards, improve labor conditions, and install technology that can raise productivity and increase transparency. The goal is to cultivate factories that are the apparel industry’s most radically transparent and compliant.
For Gap, the agreement with the investment fund is essentially a cost-free opportunity to give the vendors who produce its goods the possibility of a value add in the form of expertise or funding for some of their new ventures. Another benefit of the agreement is that it will Gap reduce production lead times. The brand sees this as a way of connecting the factory worker to its consumers.
Gap is the parent company of Gap, Banana Republic, and Old Navy. In India, a Gap initiative provides education and life-skills training to women who sew Gap clothing in factories.
www.gap.com/
Top international brands are sourcing sportswear from Bangladesh. This development is being seen as a new opportunity for the country’s readymade garment sector. Bangladesh has become the world’s second largest sportswear exporter after China.
The industry has more than 1,700 factories concentrated around the capital Dhaka and the port city of Chittagong. Around 25 per cent of knit garments like sportswear go to traditional and non-traditional markets, including the US and EU countries. Nike, Puma, Adidas are among the big brands already engaged in outsourcing sportswear from Bangladesh. They feel manufacturers produce international quality sportswear with a competitive price range. Many leading international buyers, including renowned brands, are shifting orders to Bangladesh from Pakistan, Turkey, and China.
In recent times, more than 90 per cent sportswear products are being made from local fabrics, as the country is going to attain self-sufficiency in knitwear fabrics. There are more than 261 composite factories in the knitwear industry. There are 383 yarn manufacturing industries in the country whereas fabric manufacturing units are 743. The industry has backward linkages like knitting, dyeing and spinning.
The country's big knitwear manufacturers are introducing sportswear units as top international business partners have shown keen interest in sourcing these products.
Leading Austria-based man-made fiber manufacturer, Lenzing has no plans to expand its viscose fiber production capacity because of the challenging industry conditions. The company has been working to counteract the conditions through its cost optimization program launched early this year. Results achieved until now are encouraging but insufficient to offset the decline in viscose fiber prices in the international marketplace.
Average fiber selling prices fell by 10.4 per cent in the first three quarters of 2014. Consolidated sales dropped 6.2 per cent and EBITDA was down 16 per cent over last year. Though Lenzing still anticipates good volume demand for man-made cellulosics, fiber selling prices on the global market are not expected to recover in coming quarters.
This development is also attributed to the substantial decline in polyester fiber prices as a result of the massive oil price decrease, and the expected longer-lasting period of low or at least volatile cotton prices as a consequence of the surplus supply of Chinese cotton. As a result, Lenzing will not plan for any new expansion projects, which would have expanded its viscose fiber production. The restructuring measures will affect up to 250 jobs. The company completed a new Tencel fiber plant, which began production in July.
www.lenzing.com/?PHPSESSID...
Greenpeace's Detox campaign is having a significant impact in the textile industry. Six leading Italian textile suppliers have pledged support. Some of these Italian signatories currently act as suppliers to leading fashion brands such as Versace and Louis Vuitton.
Puma is working on eliminating hazardous chemicals from its supply chain within the next two years while simultaneously exposing suppliers to the scrutiny of a manufacturers’ restricted substances list. As Puma proceeds to eliminate hazardous chemical use from across its global supply chain, Greenpeace expects it to continue the process with transparency by supplying evidence to support its claims.
Detox has called for more significant corporate action and government policy changes in 2015. The Greenpeace Detox campaign was launched in 2011 and has seen support at events and displays from Mexico City to Moscow. The campaign now has the backing of over 20 global fashion brands and suppliers including M&S, Tschibo, Levi’s, Nike, Adidas and G-Star Raw along with over half a million people who have signed up to the Detox manifesto on the Greenpeace website, demanding toxic-free fashion and clean water.
Global fashion brands routinely use hazardous chemicals and dyes to make clothes. These chemicals poison rivers, and traces of these hazardous chemicals also end up remaining in many of the garments people buy.
www.greenpeace.org/international/en/campaigns/toxics/water/detox/
Pakistan's textile exports to the EU have grown considerably since January 2014, which was when the country got the GSP Plus status. This is true especially of textile mills that produce knitwear and garments. They have significantly increased shipments to the EU in the last 11 months. However, exports of bed wear and cotton cloth have dropped.
Under the scheme, Pakistan enjoys of zero or low import duty structures. Pakistan’s textile exports to the EU increased 21.4 per cent in the first eight months of 2014 compared to the same period of the previous year. During July to October 2014, overall knitwear exports jumped by 25 per cent compared to the same period of the previous year. Ready made garment export increased by 10 per cent in the same period. But energy shortages, appreciation of the rupee, security challenges and delay in sales tax refunds are having an impact. Sales of some garment exporters have remained stagnant despite getting all the advantages of the duty preference.
Positives are a relative stability in exchange rates in recent months, strong macroeconomics and declining oil prices. Pakistan’s textile exports constitute more than 50 per cent of total overseas sales.
Itema recently showcased its innovations in Mexico. These include the best-selling rapier R9500 and airjet A9500 models. R9500 and A9500 represent the pinnacle of applied innovation and winning choices for producing a wide range of quality fabrics at high production speeds.
Students came face-to-face with the latest technological advancements in weaving machines. For Itema, year 2014 follows in the tracks of a stellar 2013 which meant a 50 per cent year on year increase in turnover. The company is the only manufacturer in the world to provide top three weft insertion technologies, rapier, airjet and projectile, and continuously invests six per cent of annual profits in research advancements of breakthrough innovations.
Mexico, and Latin America as a whole, is an important market for Itema. Itema is a leading global provider of advanced weaving solutions, including best-in-class weaving machines, spare parts and integrated services. It guarantees the right weaving machine for any type of woven fabric. From commodity to high end fashion or industrial fabrics, Itema has the right weaving machine for any application.
The company has a tradition of almost 200 years with an installed base of over 3,00,000 weaving machines in operation. It has a global presence in more than 100 countries.
www.itemagroup.com/
