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At the 64th Annual General Meeting of the Textile Machinery Manufacturers' Association (TMMA) on September 19, 2024, Chairman M Sankar delivered a comprehensive analysis of the challenges and opportunities facing the Indian Textile Engineering Industry (TEI). The event, attended by key figures in the textile sector, including Chief Guest Rakesh Mehra, Chairman of the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI), underscored the importance of technological advancement and collaboration for the TEI's future.
Global challenges impacting growth
Sankar opened his address by highlighting the impact of global economic challenges on the TEI. Geopolitical tensions and weakened consumer demand have significantly hampered the industry. While inflation has eased globally, export-oriented economies have faced slowdowns, leading to inventory buildups. India and China, with their large domestic markets, have been somewhat insulated from the worst of these challenges. However, the Indian TEI has experienced declining export demand and slowed growth, with capacity utilization falling to 84 per cent. Notably, exports of textile machinery declined by 14 per cent in FY 2023-24 compared to the previous year, exacerbating the sector's difficulties.
Domestic market resilience
Despite these global headwinds, India’s domestic market remains robust. The economy grew by 8.2 per cent in FY 2023-24, with inflation staying within the targeted range, and the fiscal deficit reduced to 5.6 per cent from 6.4 per cent. Sankar attributed this success to improved tax compliance, economic activity, and fiscal discipline. These positive factors have cushioned the TEI from more severe global pressures. Segments such as spinning, processing, and spare parts performed well, although overall industry turnover suffered in the latter half of the fiscal year.
However, Sankar pointed out that the growth within the TEI has been uneven. While some sectors have seen positive developments, the broader industry continues to face significant challenges, particularly in light of the volatile global economic environment.
The push for technological modernization
A major focus of Sankar’s speech was the urgent need for modernization within the TEI. He called for closer collaboration between the textile machinery manufacturers and their user industries, stressing that adopting cutting-edge technologies and investing in research and development (R&D) are essential to staying competitive globally.
Sankar noted that countries like China and European nations have surged ahead in technological innovation, largely due to strong government support. In contrast, India’s TEI has lagged, hampered by limited financial and infrastructural backing. Sankar called for increased government involvement in fostering innovation, particularly through financial investments in R&D and technology. Without this strategic support, India risks falling further behind its international competitors.
Navigating cyclical demand
Another significant challenge highlighted by Sankar is the cyclical nature of demand in the TEI. He noted that the industry often experiences periods of intense activity followed by downturns, creating financial instability and operational inefficiencies. To address this, Sankar suggested that machinery orders be spread more evenly throughout the year, which would help both machinery manufacturers and textile companies by reducing costs and ensuring more consistent production.
Despite these challenges, Sankar expressed optimism about the TEI's future. He highlighted the Indian government’s initiatives, such as the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme and the PM MITRA Scheme, which aim to bolster the textile and apparel industry. These initiatives, if properly supported, could reduce India’s dependence on imported machinery and help the TEI close the technological gap with global leaders in areas like weaving and processing.
Recognizing excellence in exports and innovation
The AGM also celebrated excellence within the industry through the Export and R&D Awards. Rieter India Pvt Ltd won the Apex Export Award for an overall turnover of Rs 2273 crore, including Rs 747 crore in exports. Other notable winners included Saurer Textile Solutions Pvt Ltd and Lakshmi Machines Works Ltd, which excelled in the machinery sector, and Premier Evolvics Pvt Ltd, which led the textile testing sector. Kirloskar Toyota Textile Machinery was recognized for its achievements in spinning machinery, while Lakshmi Machines Works Ltd also received recognition for its innovation in R&D with its Ring Frame Auto Piecer and Draw Frame LDF3 2S.
A call for collaboration and innovation
In his closing remarks, Sankar emphasized the importance of collaboration between the TEI and the broader textile industry. He reiterated that government support is crucial for fostering innovation and enabling India’s TEI to remain competitive on the global stage. Sankar urged stakeholders to embrace modernization and technological advancements, which will be key to securing India’s position as a global leader in textile machinery manufacturing.
The future of India’s TEI, Sankar concluded, hinges on the industry’s ability to innovate, collaborate, and capitalize on government initiatives. With the right support and a commitment to modernization, the TEI can emerge stronger, more competitive, and better equipped to meet the evolving demands of both domestic and international markets.
Textile machinery manufacturer Staubli will showcase its state-of-the art weaving solutions at ITMA ASIA + CITME, scheduled from Oct 14-18, 2024 at the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai, China.
Stäubli continuously develops high-performance systems for weaving applications across various sectors, including fashion, home textiles, automotive, protection, medical, carpeting, and advanced technical textiles for aeronautics and future technologies. Just a year after the previous edition, the company is once again showcasing innovative solutions, highlighting automation in the weaving mill and precision in shed formation for even the most intricate Jacquard fabrics. These innovations are designed to enhance the performance, durability, and profitability of weaving mills.
A major highlight of the exhibition will be the world premiere of the Safir PRO S47 drawing-in machine, specially tailored to meet the demands of the Chinese market. It incorporates AWC 2.0 (Automatic Warp Control) technology and Layer and Offset Management to ensure efficient, automatic drawing-in for double-warp-beam applications, particularly for staple fibers and fancy denim production.
Attendees at the Stäubli booth will have the opportunity to explore a broad range of machines, including solutions for weaving preparation, frame and Jacquard weaving, as well as carpet and technical textile production. The Magma warp tying machine offers fast and easy warp tying, ensuring perfectly tied warps, while the Safir PRO S47 employs state-of-the-art AWC 2.0 technology, which leverages image processing, data analytics, advanced algorithms, and high-performance processors to control every thread with precision. This advanced system enables mills to create innovative, unique designs.
Energy efficiency is also a focus, with the LX PRO and N4L PRO Jacquard machines featuring the MX PRO module, powered by NOEMI electronics architecture and the TC8 controller.
These Jacquard machines are designed to be energy-efficient, reliable, and user-friendly. Stäubli will also showcase carpet weaving innovations tailored for the Chinese market. The Alpha 580 Universal carpet weaving machine, designed for quick style changes and complex weave structures, can produce a wide range of carpet qualities with a weaving width of up to 5.3 meters. This machine boasts easy yarn handling, high reliability, and a long service life, making it ideal for carpet weaving mills.
The MyStäubli customer portal will also be highlighted, offering a comprehensive platform to support efficient maintenance, optimise machinery performance, and simplify spare parts management through its redesigned e-shop. My Stäubli is tailored to meet the specific needs of weaving mills, offering training resources, technical support, and personalised interaction options.
The country’s apex trade body for the cotton industry, Cotton Association of India (CAI) has signed an MoU with the Liverpool-based International Cotton Association (ICA) to strengthen mutual cooperation and promote fair business practices and contract sanctity in cotton trading.
The ICA is the world’s foremost arbitral body for cotton, with the majority of global cotton trading governed by ICA bylaws.
Led by Kimberlie Hanna, President, a delegation from the ICA recently visited India to meet with CAI representatives under the leadership of Atul S Ganatra, President CAI. During the discussions, both trade bodies explored various cotton-related matters including plans to host ICA training programs in India and the possibility of organising ICA events to expand the association’s membership within the country.
The ICA delegation also met with officials from the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI) and key Indian textile mills to further explore opportunities for collaboration.
The ICA delegation included Kimberlie Hanna, President; Bill Kingdon, Managing Director and Jagan Gopinath, Director. In addition to their meetings with CAI and CCI, they are also scheduled to visit prominent textile mills in Coimbatore and Chandigarh before concluding their trip to India.
Featuring its brand ambassador and actor Akshay Kumar, the latest campaign of home solutions provider Welspun taps into the meme culture by reimagining Kumar’s iconic scenes from blockbuster films with a humorous twist.
Designed to resonate with a wide range of audiences, the campaign spans multiple platforms including TV commercials, social media reels, out-of-home (OOH) advertising, cinema, etc. It blends entertainment with product functionality by highlighting the brand’s key products such as the Wonder-full Bedsheet, 2-in-1 Reversible Bedsheet, QuikDry Towel, and Welspun Anti-bacterial Towel, By employing a multi-platform strategy, the campaign ensures that Welspun's message reaches audiences across various touchpoints, from online platforms to television and busy streets.
Pradnya Popade, Head-Marketing at Welspun Global Brands, states the campaign blends comfort, practicality, and humor to make every home a perfect retreat.
Including engaging videos, social media activations, TV spots, cinema placements, and impactful OOH ads, the campaign positions Welspun’s home textile solutions as fun, stylish, and practical. With products that combine innovation, comfort, and style, Welspun continues to redefine the home textiles market.
Mahlo GmbH + Co KG will partner with Shanghai Kuantex to showcase its latest systems and solutions for efficient, sustainable, and high-quality textile production and finishing at ITMA Asia 2024 on Oct 14 in Shanghai.
A key theme of Mahlo’s presentation would be production optimisation, with the company continuing its tradition of providing solutions that streamline textile manufacturing, improve efficiency, and reduce waste. The introduction of advanced digitalisation and energy-saving technologies highlights Mahlo's commitment to addressing the needs of a rapidly digitalizing and environmentally conscious industry.
Mahlo will feature its renowned modular process control system, Optipac VMC, alongside the advanced data management platform, mLog Enhanced. These tools are designed to improve monitoring and control throughout various stages of textile production, ensuring consistent quality and operational efficiency.
One of the primary highlights will be Mahlo’s groundbreaking straightening concept for feed-forward control of knitted fabrics with large, fluctuating distortions. The company’s new flagship straightener, the Orthopac RXVMC-20, which was introduced as a prototype last year, has already proven successful in numerous installations worldwide. It delivers reliable results across diverse textile applications. In line with its reputation for innovation, Mahlo will unveil a new development in straightening technology at ITMA Asia. This new technology will be available as both a standalone solution and a retrofit for existing machines, enabling manufacturers to enhance their performance and functionality. As a pivotal platform for the global textile industry, ITMA Asia provides Mahlo with an ideal stage to present its technological innovations to an international audience. Given the significance of Asia in textile manufacturing, the event offers a valuable opportunity for industry professionals to explore the latest trends and forge important business connections.
Designer Aarti Vijay Gupta partnered with Liva Reviva to unveil her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Postcard from Kashmir, at London Fashion Week in September 2024. The collection highlights a seamless blend of sustainable materials and high-fashion design, captivating audiences with its innovative use of eco-friendly fibres.
Crafted from up to 30 per cent recycled textile waste combined with FSC-certified wood pulp, the garments provide a luxurious alternative to traditional viscose while remaining soft and breathable. The collection pays homage to Kashmir's rich cultural heritage, featuring elements like Kashmiri miniatures, Papier Mache art, and Namda embroidery, all modernized through contemporary silhouettes.
The runway presentation showcased fluid drapes and intricate detailing, merging style with sustainability. Both menswear and womenswear designs drew inspiration from Kashmir’s lush landscapes, with striking photo prints taken by Gupta herself, juxtaposing sophisticated dresses and co-ord sets. Notably, Gupta introduced fitted mesh-printed bodycon dresses, marking a departure from her signature oversized silhouettes. The collection’s versatile pieces, characterized by cleaner lines and a subdued color palette, can be effortlessly mixed and matched.
Sree Charan, VP Marketing at Birla Cellulose, highlighted the significance of the collaboration, noting that Aarti Vijay Gupta's ability to combine sustainable materials with modern design perfectly represents Liva’s commitment to creating fashion that is both aesthetically appealing and environmentally conscious.
Aarti Vijay Gupta expressed her excitement about showcasing the Postcard from Kashmir collection using Liva Reviva fibres, describing it as a rewarding experience. The materials effectively captured the essence of Kashmir while adhering to sustainable practices. This collaboration highlights Liva’s dedication to promoting sustainability in the fashion industry, enabling designers to create fashion that is both mindful and visually captivating.
Kering has launched the second season of its podcast, “Fashion Our Future,” focused on sustainability and fashion’s evolving landscape. This season, Kering teams up with content creator and author Andrea Cheong, known for promoting ethical fashion and conscious consumerism. Cheong hosts in-depth discussions with grassroots activists and luxury industry innovators, offering insights into the sustainability challenges and opportunities in fashion.
The 15-episode season will focus on five main themes. The opening series, "Crafting Luxury: What Makes It Truly Valuable," now available for streaming, features Valerie Steele from the Fashion Institute of Technology and Bode's Emily Adams Bode Aujla as they explore the intersection of heritage and sustainability. In a London-based episode, Cheong interviews designer Ksenia Schnaider about her brand’s innovative use of upcycling and craftsmanship.
The season launched during London Fashion Week on September 16th, with Cheong and Timothy Chernyaev (@relaxitsonlyfashion) leading a live discussion on whether sustainability conflicts with creativity. Upcoming episodes will address supply chain challenges, eco-influence, and regenerative agriculture, with guests such as Orsola de Castro, Marcelo Gaia, and GosiaPiatek.
New episodes will be released monthly across all audio platforms.
Nike has appointed Eliott Hill, Former Senior Executive, as the brand’s new President and CEO. He will replace John Donahee as a part of leadership shakeup to revive Nike’s faltering sales, and fend off rising competition.
With over 32 years of experienceduring his earlier stintat Nike, Hill held several leadership roles across Europe and North America besides playing a pivotal role in growing the company’s revenues to over $39 billion. Before his retirement in 2020, Hill served as president of consumer marketplace, overseeing commercial and market operations for both the Nike and Jordan brands.
To soon step down from his company, Donahoe focused on strengthening Nike’s online presence and driving direct-to-consumer sales during his stint. This strategy helped Nike achieve over $50 billion in annual sales in fiscal 2023. However, recent sales have slowed due to inflation-affected consumers cutting back on discretionary spending, as well as a sluggish recovery in key markets like China.
Nike's growth has also been hindered by a lack of innovative, attention-grabbing products, as competitors such as On, backed by Roger Federer, and Deckers’ Hoka have drawn customers with more trendy and fashionable offerings.
Speculation about a leadership change had been mounting after billionaire investor William Ackman revealed a stake in Nike. While Ackman has not publicly shared his plans for the company, his involvement added to the anticipation of Hill’s appointment as CEO.
Calling for a radical overhaul of the country’s taxation system, leaders attending a roundtable conference said, the apparel sector in Bangladesh continues to grapple with reduced government support, shrinking bank finance, and worsening energy crises.
Organised by The Business Standard on Sep 15, the roundtable conference cited procedural complexities as far outweighing the marginal incentives for export sector in the country. Voicing concerns about losing market share to competitors, Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Executive President, Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA),urged the ‘revolutionary’ new government to introduce business-friendly policies.
Industry leaders also demanded accountability in the financial sector, particularly concerning bad loans. Shams Mahmud, Managing Director, Shasha Denim, criticised the high bank interest rates businesses face due to mismanagement, calling for both those responsible for bad loans and the bank employees who enabled them to be brought to justice.
The event also addressed labor unrest in the apparel sector. Khandoker Rafiqul Islam, President. BGMEA, stated, recent protests in the industry were driven by outsiders rather than workersHe hoped, military and law enforcement support would help resolve the issue.
Abdullah HilRakib, Senior Vice President, BGMEA pointed out, labor leaders often focus on workers’ rights but fail to emphasise their responsibilities, questioning how workers could vandalise factories where they’ve been employed for years.
Showkat Aziz Russell, President, Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), urged the government to prioritise restoring law and order, ensuring uninterrupted power and energy supply, and easing access to financing for industries. He also highlighted the failure of the previous government to ensure a reliable energy supply despite raising prices.
MA Jabbar, Managing Director, DBL Group, emphasized on the need for a stable business environment, improved energy supply, and greater support from the new government to achieve Bangladesh’s $100 billion export target.
Warning that power outages were damaging machinery in factories, raising long-term costs, Mahmud urged the government to plan for zero carbon emissions by 2030 to stay competitive in international markets.
Inching closer to its target of achieving £1 billion in annual profitNext has raised its profit forecast for FY24 to £995 million, following a 23 percent increase in international sales in the six months to July.
This growth has helped the retailer offset a nearly 1 percent drop in UK sales of Next-branded clothing, with total group sales rising by 8 percent and pre-tax profits growing 7.2 percent to £452 million.
Next attributes the rise in its international sales to the growing convergence of global fashion tastes, fueled by the influence of tech platforms and improved global delivery networks, which make it easier for consumers to explore and purchase clothing from different countries. However, the retailer notes, while international tastes are becoming more aligned, cultural and climatic differences still exist.
Simon Wolfson, CEO, Next, states, more than half of the company’s sales now come from online channels and rapid growth in non-Next brands, which make up 17 percent of overseas sales. The group is expanding its wholly owned labels, such as Cath Kidston and Love & Roses, following the acquisition of these brands.
Next has also been expanding its international presence through partnerships. It has signed a deal with Indian retailer Myntra to develop online and physical stores, and it is strengthening its collaboration with US department store Nordstrom, now offering childrenswear in its stores. The company is also eyeing potential partnerships in Japan, China, and Australia.
To better serve international customers, Next plans to enhance its shipping hubs in the Middle East and Europe. The retailer’s full-price sales rose by 4.4 percent during the six-month period, and better-than-expected performance in the weeks that followed boosted sales by 6.9 percent. The retailer now expects second-half sales to increase by 3.7 percent, up from previous forecasts of 2.5 percent.
