FW
Mayer & Cie presented its circular knitting portfolio featuring two machines – the SF4 3.2 III and the Relanit 3.2 HS II at the ITM 2024 in Istanbul. The company also displayed certain smart solutions for increased knitting efficiency like the knithawk tool used to detect knitting defects optically and the company’s digital solutions hub, knitlink. Besides, the company showcased spare parts packages and conversion kits for used to maintain its machines at the exhibition.
Known for its high productivity in elastic plating, the Relanit 3.2 HS IIhandles a wide range of yarns reliably and consumes up to a third less energy than conventional circular knitting machines. It features an updated open-width take down, ensuring uniform pull-off tension and equipped with two separate drives for tensioning and rewinding. Another notable feature is a needle with a predetermined breaking point, developed with Groz-Beckert, which reduces downtime by preventing uncontrolled needle breaks. A new spring sinker, also a joint development with Groz-Beckert, enhances smooth operation and reduces noise and wear.
The SF4 3.2 III caters to the trend for lightweight, elastic three-thread knitted fabrics in both pure cotton and blends. It impressed with its excellent plating ability, saving time and costs in fabric finishing. Both machines were exhibited with the new Control 5.0 machine control system, which is essential for utilisingknitlink. This system allows more in-depth settings from a mobile device, enabling simultaneous operation of multiple machines. All machines built from 2001 onwards can be retrofitted with Control 5.0, and new machines from 2024 will come equipped with it.
The knithawk tool inspects knitted fabric in real-time, stopping the machine upon detecting significant errors and creating an error log. This feature helps conserve resources by preventing the production of defective fabric.
Mayer & Cie. also presented upgrade and conversion kits including the Performance Kit for Relanit 3.2 models and the Senso Blue RS lubrication system. Conversion kits for the MV4 3.2 II/MBF 3.2 and the S4-3.2 II/ SF4-3.2 III models were made available during the exhibtion.
Guangxi Baisheng Textile Co., Ltd. has signed an agreement with Rieter to implement the world’s first complete spinning process using Rieter’s latest air-jet spinning technology, the J 70. This innovative project aims to elevate automation levels and reduce conversion costs, setting a new benchmark in air-jet spinning quality and productivity.
The expansion of Baisheng’s air-jet spinning capacity with the J 70 is driven by its exceptional productivity, which will help ensure a steady yarn supply for its knitting operations. The J 70 features 200 individually automated spinning units that efficiently manage quality cuts and natural ends, delivering speeds of up to 600 meters per minute and supporting up to four lots simultaneously. Additionally, the latest generation yarn clearer identifies weak yarn during production, ensuring top quality.
The existing Rieter cards, draw frames, and winding machines at Baisheng Textile, along with Rieter’s superior after-sales service, have established a strong foundation for this successful collaboration. This partnership aims to set a new industry benchmark by enhancing the quality and productivity of air-jet spinning.
Michael Hubensteiner, Country Managing Director of Rieter China, expressed pride in building the world’s first complete air-jet spinning system with J 70 technology in partnership with Baisheng Textile. This collaboration is expected to enable Baisheng Textile to achieve new levels of competitiveness and industry leadership.
Staubli presented its new automatic drawing-in machine-the Safir PRO S67- at the ITM 2024 Exhibition held in Istanbul
Designed to meet the demands of today’s fast-paced and competitive fabric production environment, the Safir PRO S67 ensures the creation of perfect warp beams, optimising weaving processes and reducing warp-related machine stops. This leads to improved weaving efficiency, productivity, and the production of high-quality A-grade fabrics.
With its performance driven by novel and enhanced features, The Safir PRO S67 employs high-tech features for quick recognition of yarn colors, characteristics, and repeat patterns through Active Warp Control 2.0 (AWC 2.0). This system utilises advanced optics, sensors, and algorithms to streamline the weaving process.
Additionally, the SafirS67 can be equipped with Initial Condition Setting (ICS), which facilitates fast start-up by using predefined machine parameters. This feature significantly speeds up the drawing-in process, achieving rates of up to 200 ends per minute, thereby ensuring a high production rate. The machine's remote control capabilities allow it to be linked to a secure data cloud, offering Active Productivity & Drawing-in Control (APC).
The Safirautomatic drawing-in machines enable perfect monitoring of various parameters during the drawing-in process. Machine pre-settings can be easily adapted to different yarn types, with kits available for specific needs such as wool or fancy yarns. These hardware and software adaptations enable a quick start-up of the drawing-in process.
F abric quality cannot be monitored during the weaving process itself; instead, it is controlled beforehand through the automatic production of perfect warp beams on the SAFIR PRO S67. Stäubli’s AWC 2.0 technology ensures the quality of the final product by eliminating misaligned yarns that can lead to weaving machine stops and secondary quality woven fabric.
AWC 2.0 controls and monitors the drawing-in process based on continuously measured yarn properties and programmed draw-in repeat. Optical, non-contact recognition and measurement of yarn properties is the essential function of AWC 2.0, allowing the determination of titre, color, twist direction, and even hairiness, transparency, and monofilament or multifilament characteristics.
Based on the measured yarn titres, AWC 2.0 detects double ends, stopping the machine for inspection if a double end is indicated. This ensures accuracy even when warps with yarns of various titres are drawn in.
Staubli offers a dedicated clamping system for stationary drawing-in stations, ensuring efficient processing of double warp beams or two-layer beams. ICS optimises the overall drawing-in process according to specific application requirements, allowing weavers to expand their range of applications to include glass yarns as well as technical and fancy yarns.
Imposing stringent sustainability requirements on all products within the bloc, European Union's new ecodesign regulation is poised to impact Indian exporters, especially smaller businesses. Banning the destruction of unsold textiles, the regulation is likely to reduce the number of new orders.
Mandating, mandate product durability, reusability, and energy efficiency, the new guidelines align with other EU measures such as the carbon border adjustment mechanism (CBAM) and deforestation regulations. Considered a unilateral move, the CBAM may face challenges at the World Trade Organization (WTO). The ecodesign regulations will take effect 24 months after being published in the official journal.
According to the EU website, the ecodesign requirements aim to reduce the environmental impact throughout a product's lifecycle by ensuring energy efficiency and other sustainability measures.
Replacing the existing ecodesign directive, the new regulation broadens its scope to include all goods sold in the EU market, beyond just energy products. It encourages public procurement of green products by applying ecodesign criteria and aligns with the Digital Services Act for online sales.
The regulation covers a wide range of products, with exceptions for items like cars and defense-related goods. It introduces requirements for product durability, reusability, upgradability, reparability, and energy and resource efficiency. Additionally, it includes norms related to substances that restrict circularity, recycled content, remanufacturing, recycling, and environmental footprints.
Mithleshwar Thakur, Secretary General, AEPC, advises the government to address the issue before engaging in bilateral talks with the EU. Sudden changes like these might particularly affect small players, he says.
Describing the regulation as a non-tariff barrier, another industry representative urges the government to highlight the concern during free trade negotiations, as these norms could negate the benefits of any tariff cuts being negotiated.
Organised by the Sri Lankan High Commission, fashion textile trade show- Sourced Sri Lankaattracted ambassadors, high commissioners, and a high-level diplomatic community from around 28 countries. This helped create a vast international audience for the showcase.
Some of the noted dignitaries at the event included RohithaBogollagama, Sri Lankan High Commissioner to the United Kingdom, several lords, barons and top UK business leaders.
The country’s largest export sector - the Sri Lankan Textile & Apparel Industry -generated export revenues worth $4.5 billion in 2023. The sector accounted for 42 per cent of Sri Lanka’s total merchandise exports.
Most of the apparels from Sri Lanka were exported to western countries including the US, the UK and the EU.
Despite exports dropping by 19 per cent in 2023, the apparel sector remains a crucial contributor to Sri Lanka's economy, accounting for 7 per cent of the GDP.
Both Dolce & Gabbana and Ralph Lauren presented menswear shows inspired by the Riviera in Milan recently.
The Spring-Summer 2025 menswear collection by Dolce &Gabbana epitomised the Riviera playboy look. The collection featured black jerkins, cabans and mess jacks made from the traditional straw fabric, Raffia. Ideal for the hot Italian summers, collection wove the Raffia fabric strands into houndstooth patterns for cardigans and espadrilles.
Designed by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, the lightweight collection, included crepe slacks, pants, and shirts embroidered with pink coral bugle beads. Set against a simple white proscenium, the show marked a shift towards optimism in fashion during challenging times.
On the other hand, presented in the carpeted courtyard of his villa in Central Milan, Ralph Lauren's Spring/Summer 2025 collection added a contemporary twist to the classic classicism. Dubbed ‘Ralph’s Riviera,’ the collection blended ideas from St Tropez to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat with Lauren’s polished prep, worn by a handsome cast.
Featuring combinations like dark pants and a white-tie waistcoat paired with a blue linen safari jacket, the collection also offered sea blue paisley and a thick silk tie. Perfectly suited for a Mediterranean setting, the collection ushered in a new era of gentlemanly chic.
In 2023, China’s exports of knitted or crocheted fabrics declined by 6.1 per cent to 2.4 million tons. In value terms, knitted fabricsexports by the country contracted to $12.9 billion during the year
From 2013-23, 5he total value of China’s knitted fabrics exports grew at an average annual rate of 4.2 per cent, with fluctuations noted throughout the period. The highest growth of 35 per cent totaling $14.9 billion was recorded in 2022
Brazil was the primary destination for China’s knitted fabric exports, receiving 355,000 tons and accounting for 15 per cent of total exports. This was followed by Argentina and Turkey, with exports of 159,000 tons and 158,000 tons of knitted fabrics respectively. China’s knitted fabrics exports to Brazil grew at an average annual rate of 14.7 per cent while those to Argentina increased by 20.5 per cent, and exports to Turkey expanded by 15.2 per cent.
In value terms, Egypt, Mexico, and Brazil emergedas the largest markets, collectively accounting for 31 per cent of total exports. Egypt experienced the highest growth rate in export value at 36.7 per cent, while Mexico and Brazil saw more modest growth.
The average export price of knitted fabric declined by 7.7 per cent to $5, 325 in 2023 from the previous year. Prices varied significantly among major markets, with Mexico at $12,183 per ton and Guatemala at $2,376 per ton.
In collaboration with the DBS Bank, global fashion brands Gap, H&M, Bestseller and Mango are launching a new groundbreaking financing model to decarbonise the fashion industry.
Termed as the Future Supplier Initiative, the initiative is being facilitated by The Fashion Pact and supported by the Apparel Impact Institute and Guide house along with the DBS Bank.
To debut in Bangladesh, the initiative will be further expanded toVietnam, India, China, Italy, and Turkey. It will focus on sharing financial risks and responsibilities associated with Tier I and II textile and garment factories transitioning to renewable energy sources.
Designed as a brand-agnostic mechanism, the Future Supplier Initiativeaims to develop and finance projects to help brands and suppliers meet their Science Based Targets (SBTs) and adhere to the 1.5°C climate trajectory.
The initiative will use a combination of technical support and financial incentives to help overcome barriers that prevent factories from adopting electrification and renewable energy solutions. Encouraging other brands and investors to join the initiative, Daniel Ervér, CEO, H&M Group, highlights, collective action is needed to address the fashion industry’s climate impact.
Eva von Alvensleben, Executive Director, The Fashion Pact, notes,the initiative provides a unique opportunity to fashion retailers to collaborate and drive progress towards science-based targets. Anders HolchPovlsen, CEO, Bestseller, adds, it offers innovative, joint solutions to address emissions within the value chain.
Offering technical support, the initiative also helps suppliers identify and implement low-carbon technologies and solutions. Additionally, it monitors baseline emission reductions to demonstrate the impact of financed projects.
Reflecting on the initiative, Richard Dickson, CEO, Gap Inc, reiteratesthe company’s commitment to collaborate with supply chain partners to reduce emissions. Tan Su Shan, Group Head-Institutional Banking, DBS Bank, highlights the need to expand low-carbon technologies and innovative financing modelsto drive adoption.
Toni Ruiz, CEO, Mango, echoes Lewis Perkins’, President, Apparel Impact Institute demand for collective action by brands and retailers. GauravMenon, Partner, Guidehouse, emphasises on the importance of accelerating supplier decarbonisation to meet scientific climate targets while Adam Karlsson, CFO, H&M Group, affirms the company’s commitment to the initiative.
Italian subsidiary of Japan's leading computerised knitting solutions provider Shima Seiki Mfg, Shima Seiki Italia SpA is set to participate in the 95thPittiImmagineFilati exhibition being held in Florence, Italy from June 25-27, 2024.
Exhibiting in the CustomEasy section, the company will showcase various aspects of customisation aspects through its Wholegarments knitting machines and ApexFiz design software.
Having gained significant attention in the industry, the Wholegarment technology addresses the shortage of skilled sewing and linking personnel in the industry. Shima Seiki has nearly 30 years’ experience of using this technology. The company has launched a flagship machine - the SWG-XR that sets a new benchmark for Whole garment knitting.
Featuring four needle beds for high-quality knitting, the SWG-XR is also equipped with Slide Needle, a redesigned sinker system, and a compact, lightweight carriage with four systems and auto yarn carriers. These help boost the machine’s productivity by over 25 per cent compared to previous models and allow for a broader product range, supporting knits for all seasons and higher quality fabrics and silhouettes, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting, and intarsia knitting.
The company will also showcase the Mach2X Whole garment Knitting Machine in 5S guage to demonstrate coarse gauge knitting. This machine features Slide Needle on four needle beds. Shima Seiki will also showcase an improved version of the Original SPG from 1979-new SPG-R computerised pile flat knitting machine.
Shown in 7 gauge, the SPG-R features a new movable sinker system with a selectable loop presser function and a new belt-driven carriage for efficient production of high-quality pile gloves.
Shima Seiki's ApexFiz subscription-based design software supports fashion creativity from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation, and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual sampling, accurate enough to serve as prototypes, reduces time, cost, and material waste, promoting sustainability and digital transformation in the fashion supply chain. ApexFiz's capabilities are enhanced by web services like Shima Data mall for digital content and yarn bank for digitised yarn sourcing.
Kraig Biocraft Laboratories has successfully completed the first commercial production run of its BAM-1 hybrid spider silk cocoons, launching 30 days ahead of schedule. This achievement follows the overwhelming success of their spring production trials, during which two separate BAM-1 parental lines were raised and cross-mated to produce the BAM-1 hybrids.
The recent production run marks a significant milestone, with a tenfold increase in production volume compared to the spring trials, yielding over 325 pounds of recombinant spider silk cocoons. This is the largest batch of recombinant spider silk cocoons ever produced by the company.
The BAM-1 hybrids were specifically engineered for enhanced robustness to meet the demands of large-scale spider silk manufacturing. With proven production efficiency, Kraig Labs is preparing for further commercial expansion of the BAM-1 parental lines and a significant scale-up of the BAM-1 hybrids, aiming to achieve metric-ton-level spider silk production.
Company Founder and CEO, Kim Thompson, announced that the first commercial rearing of BAM-1 hybrids was a significant success, marking their largest single batch to date. He emphasized that this achievement is just the beginning of an exciting and rapid expansion of spider silk production in 2024. Thompson also highlighted the company's commitment to taking smart risks as they lead the commercialization of cost-effective and eco-responsible spider silk.
