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Mixed Signals from Textile and Apparel Sector: Textile index falls as apparel index shows resilience
The latest Wazir Textile & Apparel Index Reports reveal a contrasting performance for the Indian textile and apparel industry in FY24. While the Wazir Apparel Index (WAI) indicates a positive trend, the Wazir Textile Index (WTI) paints a concerning picture.
Textile industry struggles with profitability despite sales growth
Sales up, profits down: The WTI Sales Index witnessed a modest 2 per cent increase in FY24 compared to FY23. However, this positive sales growth wasn't mirrored in profitability. The WTI EBITDA Index, a measure of earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization, saw a concerning 10 per cent decline year-on-year. This indicates that despite an increase in sales, textile companies are struggling to maintain profit margins.
Shrinking margins: This disparity is further highlighted by the consolidated EBITDA margin for top textile companies. Despite a 2 per cent increase in sales, the EBITDA margin as a percentage of sales dropped by a significant 1 percentage point in FY24. While the report doesn't provide details on cost breakdown, it's possible factors like employee expenses or other operational costs could be putting pressure on margins.
Apparel sector shows resilience
Modest sales growth, stable margins: The Wazir Apparel Index (WAI) tells a different story. The WAI Sales Index displayed a marginal increase of 0.3 per cent in FY24 compared to FY23. While the sales growth wasn't substantial, it indicates a level of stability in the apparel sector. This suggests apparel companies might be managing costs more effectively or benefiting from favorable market conditions compared to their textile counterparts.
Profitability on the rise: Interestingly, the WAI EBITDA Index bucked the trend and actually increased by 1 per cent year-on-year. Additionally, the apparel sector managed to maintain its consolidated EBITDA margin as a percentage of sales, indicating a focus on cost control and efficiency. The consolidated EBITDA margin for WAI companies remained unchanged, indicating apparel companies are able to maintain their profit margins despite stagnant sales growth.
Overall industry performance a cause for concern
Sales down, profits down further: Looking at the performance of all listed textile and apparel companies combined, the picture becomes more concerning. Consolidated sales for the entire sector declined by 3 per cent in FY24 compared to FY23. This suggests that despite the apparel sector's resilience, the overall industry is facing headwinds.
Profitability takes a hit: The decline in profitability is even more stark. Consolidated EBITDA for all listed companies witnessed a drop of 2 percentage points in FY24 compared to FY23. This significant decrease highlights the challenges the industry is facing in maintaining profitability.
Unpacking the divergence
The contrasting performances of the WTI and WAI raise questions about the factors driving this divergence. A deeper analysis of raw material costs, export trends, and company-specific strategies within each sector might reveal the reasons behind these contrasting results.
This mixed performance underscores the need for the textile industry to address profitability concerns. Strategies to improve operational efficiency, explore new markets, and potentially adapt product lines could be crucial for navigating the current economic climate. The apparel sector, while showing signs of resilience, should also remain vigilant and adapt its strategies as needed.
Aprominent men's fashion network with 53 branches across the country, Mania Jeans has launched a new men's evening collection with a million-shekel marketing campaign.
Rich and diverse, the collection makes a distinct and unique fashion statement, says EliorAslan, Vice President-Marketing. It features a wide range of colors, cuts and garments, and is tailored for young men seeking a blend of style and innovation, emphasises the network.
Noted for its use of innovative fabric technology, the collection enhances durability and appearance. It offers a variety of luxurious evening outfits and accessories designed for an elegant evening look. The collection combines the customers’ need for elegance with latest fashion trends and ultimate comfort, adds Aslan. The million-shekel campaign is led by international artist Josie Zira.
Under the leadership of Prime Minister, NarenderModi, the Central Government has set a target to boost its textile production to $250 billion by 2030. The government also aims to increase textile exports to $100 billion by 2030, with $40 billion specifically from apparel exports. A significant industry for India, the textile and apparel industry currently contributes to over 4 per cent of its total GDP and 14 per cent of its total annual export earnings.
Impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, India's textile and apparel industry has struggled to recover fully, raising concerns among industry stakeholders and the government. The government has implemented several measures to enhance the sector's global competitiveness, focusing on a holistic approach to make it more vibrant and innovative.
One of the largest manufacturing sectors in the country, the textile and apparel sector has a rich history of development in India. The country is the world’s second-largest textile exporter with a 7.4 per cent share in the global market. India is also world’s fifth-largest garment exporter with a 3.1 per centshare in the global market, as per WTO data released in 2023.
Apparel production in India is currently valued at $52 billion, with $14 to $17 billion from exports and around $35 to $38 billion from the domestic market. In the last five years, India’s garment exports remained stable between $14 billion and $17 billion. In the fiscal year 2023-24, garment exports from the country declined by 10.2 per cent to $14.53 billion, compared to $16.19 billion in FY 2022-23.
Textile exports also declined by 12.5 per centto $19.4 billion in 2022 with a global market share of 7.4 per cent, according to the WTO data. However, the Manufacturing of Textiles Index for FY 2023-24 increased by 0.4 per cent to 108.2 compared to the previous year (APEC).
To boost exports growth, the Indian government has introduced various schemes such as Remission of Duties and Taxes on Exported Products (RoDTEP), Rebate of State and Central Taxes and Levies (RoSCTL), the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) scheme, and the PM Mega Integrated Textile Region and Apparel (PM MITRA) park. Free trade agreements (FTAs) are also being explored to reduce non-tariff barriers in existing markets.
The PLI scheme aims to increase participation in the man-made fiber and technical textile sectors, while the PM-MITRA park is designed to enhance scalability. Additionally, initiatives like RoDTEP and RoSCTL ensure the stability of incentives for exporters.
Held on June 11, 2024, the 2nd Bangladesh Circular Economy Summit focused on the shifting of the Bangladesh apparel and textile industries to a circular model from the current linear one.
Organised by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) in collaboration with the GIZ Bangladesh and in association with the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands at the Radisson Blu, Water Garden Hotel in Dhaka, the summit comprised four plenary sessions, three panel discussions, and one breakout session.
The summit was launched by Jahangir Kabir Nanak, Minister of Textiles & Jute, Government of the People’s Republic of Bangladesh, as the Chief Guest. Other special guests at the summit includedSiddiqurRahman, former President, BGMEA; ThijsWoudstra, Deputy Head - Mission, Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, Bangladesh; and Jan Janowski, Deputy Head of Mission, Embassy of Germany, Bangladesh.
The four plenary sessions focused on the topics, ‘Formalising the Informal Jhoot Sector’, ‘Closing the Loop of Textile Waste’, ‘Circular Design: Reality vs Challenges’, and ‘Transparency & Traceability in Circularity’.
A presentation on ‘EU Due Diligence and Legislations on Circularity’ was made by Charles Whiteley, Head - Delegation, Delegation of the European Union in Bangladesh followed by a presentation on ‘Market Incentives for Eco-design: The Case of Eco-modulation’ by Professor HarriKalimo, Co-Director, 3E (Environment, Economy and Energy) Research Center, Brussels School of Governance and a presentation on ‘A National Circular Textile Roadmap for Bangladesh’ by Patrick Schroeder, Senior Research Fellow, Chatham House.
The summit also held a breakout session on the topic, ‘Mapping the Way for RMG Circularity’ by the Embassy of the Kingdom of the Netherlands in Bangladesh.
The summit aimed to accelerate the momentum of circularity in the apparel and textile industries in the country, saidMostafizUddin, Founder and CEO, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE).Itfocused on enhancing sustainability in Bangladesh’s production process, and providing a valuable partner to the Netherlands in its circularity journey, adds Irma Van Dueren, Ambassador of the Kingdom of the Netherlands to Bangladesh.
Dr Michael Klode, Project Manager, Programfor Sustainability in the Textile and Leather Sector (STILE), GIZ, summed up, adopting a circular economy is being conscious of not just climate goals, but also business goals and competitiveness.
With its successful 2024 edition, Intertextile Shenzhen Apparel Fabrics solidified its position as a leading trade fair and a vital link between China's robust textile industry and the global fashion market. The show's commitment to innovation, sustainability, and fostering international connections ensures its continued relevance in the years to come.
The 2024 edition of Intertextile Shenzhen Apparel Fabrics concluded after a successful three-day run at the Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center in Futian. The event, which took place from June 5th to 7th, served as a central hub for the Chinese textile industry, attracting a high number of visitors, including international trade visitors from many countries.
Aligning with the Changing Market
The decision to move the show dates to June reflects the organizers' commitment to adapting to the evolving textile market. This change aimed to better align with attendee sourcing needs and proved successful, generating positive feedback from participants. The convenient location within the Futian business district, with easy access to ports and stations, further enhanced the experience for buyers from across China, ASEAN, and beyond.
A Showcase of Innovation and Trends
Intertextile Shenzhen Apparel Fabrics 2024 lived up to its reputation as a premier platform for exploring the latest trends and innovations in the textile industry. Attendees were treated to a comprehensive display of fabrics and apparel from a diverse range of leading manufacturers and suppliers. The show encompassed various segments, including:
• Functional Fabrics: Exhibitors showcased fabrics boasting advanced functionalities like water repellency, breathability, and wrinkle resistance.
• Sustainable Textiles: The growing emphasis on eco-friendly practices was evident, with a strong presence of exhibitors specializing in organic and recycled materials. For the first time, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) participated in the event, highlighting its commitment to sustainable textile production.
• Ladieswear Focus: Consistent with its Greater Bay Area (GBA) location, the show offered a strong focus on ladieswear fabrics, catering to the demands of this key market segment.
A Gateway for Global Textile Trade
The event served as a valuable platform for fostering connections and conducting business. Industry leaders from Chinese fashion, fabric manufacturing, and legal services converged at the show, providing a powerhouse of expertise for attendees. The combined presence of Intertextile Shenzhen Apparel Fabrics, Yarn Expo Shenzhen, DPARK (Fashion Design), and PH Value further enriched the experience, offering a comprehensive overview of the textile industry value chain.
A Meeting Point for Industry Leaders
Intertextile Shenzhen Apparel Fabrics 2024 wasn't just about showcasing products. The event served as a platform for industry leaders to convene and share expertise. Visitors were treated to a series of fringe events featuring experts from organizations like HKRITA, Pantone, and the Nano and Advanced Materials Institute (NAMI). These events provided valuable insights into the cutting edge of the textile industry.
The crucial policy measures implemented by the Ministry of Textiles to revitalise the Indian textile industry have been upheld by the Confederation of Indian Textile Industry (CITI).
Including the imposition of Minimum Import Price (MIP) on specified MMF Knitted Fabric lines and exemption for certain inputs from Quality Control Orders (QCOs), these measures aim to provide immediate relief to the industry while setting the stage for sustained growth.
A significant step, the imposition of a Minimum Import Price (MIP) of $3.5/kg on selected lines of MMF Knitted Fabrics, effective until September 15, 2024, aims to safeguard the interests of domestic manufacturers. Besides protecting local businesses from unfair competition, this measure also encourages indigenous production.
The provision for exemptions for inputs imported by Advance Authorisation holders, Export Oriented Units (EoU), and Special Economic Zone (SEZ) units from mandatory Quality Control Orders (QCOs) makes the regulatory framework more flexible and efficient. By smoothening operations for business, these measures enhance productivity and competitiveness.
Coupled with other growth drivers, these policy interventions are anticipated to propel the Indian textile industry towards its visionary target of becoming a $350 billion industry by 2030. The industry is also projected to attract investments worth $100 billlion and generate over 15 million new jobs, thus expanding India’s socio-economic landscape.
However, to achieve these ambitious production targets, CITI advocates for a series of policy recommendations to enhance the cost competitiveness of the cotton value chain and foster the growth of MMF textiles.
One of the primary recommendations of CITI includes the removal of import duties on all varieties of cotton, including cotton waste, to alleviate cost pressures on manufacturers and promote affordability across the supply chain. Additionally, the trade body proposes measures to enhance cotton productivity, such as the adoption of specialised seed varieties like HTBt cotton seeds.
CITI also recommends the exemption ofthe domestically unavailable fibers and yarns from Quality Control Orders (QCOs), establishment of a committee to oversee the availability of raw materials, and addressing GST duty inversion to mitigate capital blockage within the MMF value chain.
Lastly, CITI calls for a separate Harmonised System of Nomenclature (HSN) codes for recycled MMF-based products and expanding viscose manufacturing hubs to reduce logistical costs.
Turkey-based, Ugurlular Textile Industry and Trade, Inchas placed an order for more than 30 piecing robots from Rieter for its ring and compact-spinning machines.
A producer of over 100 tons of yarn in its ring, compact and open-end factories, Ugurlular Textile Industry and Trade exportsits products to 30 countries.
On the other hand, Rieter has selling its Robospin piecing robots designed for the ring and compact-spinning machines since their launch in spring 2019. These robots are sold with both new machines and as an upgrade for existing installations.
TheseROBOspin units are proving transformative for many of Rieter’s customers as they can be operated around the clock and ensure consistently high machine performance and optimum productivity. The units reduce manpower requirements by up to 50 per cent and achieve up to 95 per cent piecing efficiency. Through their minimal contact between the robot and the yarn, these units are able to preserve quality and ensure a steady output of high-grade product.
Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) has urged the government to remove the 7.5 per cent VAT on scrap RMG fabrics and 15 per cent VAT on fibers made using such scraps from the budget for FY25.
The resulting total 22.5 per cent VAT on these RMG scraps makes them unfeasible to be used to turn into fibers, says Mohammad Ali Khokon, President, BTMA.
These scraps are currently being used to 1,200 million kg of fiber worth $4 billion each year, he adds. The association currently imports such fiber from abroad using foreign currency.
Khokon also demanded the withdrawal of the 5 per cent VAT on man-made fiber, and 5 per cent advance tax, as well as 5 per cent advance income tax on flax fibre.
He also requested for a reduction in the RMG source tax from the current 1 per cent to 0.5 per cent for the next five years.
During his speech, Khokon said, the textile and clothing industry currently faces issues due to the dollar crisis, inadequate energy supply, and the interest rate hike.
He demanded for the retention of the corporate tax until 2030. He also called for a withdrawal of the fine for an error in the HS as stated in the 171 Clause of the Customs Act-2023.
Growing at a CAGR of 7.36 per cent, the global yoga clothing market is estimated to grow by $18.88 billion from 2024-2028, according to Technavio. The growthwill be driven by an increasing number of yoga practitioners with a trend towards introduction of new technologies and features in yoga clothing. However, unpredictable raw material prices will continue to pose a challenge to this growth.
Currently experiencing several new trends, the yoga clothing market is dominated by a growing demand for items like yoga pants and tops. Besides comfort and functionality, consumers are demanding yoga clothes that allow them to move freely and breathe easily. To cater to these demands, brands are offering yoga apparels in a variety of colors and prints.
Additionally, yoga apparels made from eco-friendly and sustainable materials are becoming increasingly important in the market. Consumers are opting for yoga clothes that are not only comfortable and stylish but also environmentally conscious.
Fluctuations in the global raw material prices is one of the challenges being faced by global yoga clothing manufacturers. Key players like adidas AG, Nike Inc, Puma SE, and LululemonAthleticaInc are affected by price fluctuations of synthetic fibers such as Spandex and the scarcity of quality polyester. This volatility impacts their profit margins, making it difficult to anticipate investments and control costs.
Another area of concern includes the increasing competition from various brands, domestic and international. Consumers’ growing demand for high-quality, comfortable and affordable yoga clothing is compelling brands to focus on innovative designs, sustainable materials, and effective marketing strategies
Brands need to also optimise their supply chain and consider outsourcing production to reduce costs. Additionally, they need to boost their digital presence and delivery systems for online sales.
AllSaints has launched a new premium kidswear range, titled, ‘SmallSaints in partnership with British fashion retailer Next.
Inspired by the ‘distinctive aesthetic ‘ of AllSaints, the new collection offers 45 clothing pieces for children including jumpers, dresses and T-shirts, as per report by the Retail Week. It is available for kids aged between 4-13 years for prices starting from £22. Available on the Next Website, this collection will be followed by another 145-piece kidswear range from AllSaints from July-October 2024.
Emma Siddalls, Head-Design Licenses and Accessories, says, the collections gives the younger generation, an opportunity to express their individually.
Unveiling a global store format in September, AllSaints marks its 30th anniversary this year. The brand plans to roll out four new licensed product ranges alongside SmallSaints this year.
