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Anticipation is building for the 2024/25 cotton season, with initial projections from the International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC) hinting at promising gains in key metrics. Despite lingering uncertainties, particularly surrounding weather patterns, the forecast paints a picture of growth in area, production, consumption, and trade.
However, a shadow looms over the optimism as weather remains a significant wildcard, continuing its trend of unpredictability. Expected declines in yields, likely influenced by adverse weather conditions exacerbated by global climate change, underscore the challenges faced by the industry.
Projections for the upcoming season include a 3 per cent increase in area, reaching 32.85 million hectares, and a production boost of over 2.5 per cent to 25.22 million tons. Consumption is also forecasted to rise by 2.9 per cent to 25.37 million tons, while trade volumes are expected to surge by almost 4 per cent.
Despite the positive outlook, price projections remain subject to fluctuation, with the Secretariat's forecast ranging from 85.67 to 100.62 cents per pound.
Mexico’s Ministry of Economy is currently reassessing the anti-dumping duty applied to imports of polyester filament yarn (PFY) from India and China, categorised under tax number 5402.33.01.
This review has been prompted by a reevaluation of the circumstances which initially led to the imposition of the duty. The Ministry has concluded that the closure of the applicant's operations in September 2023 has altered the landscape, potentially rendering the domestic PFY industry unaffected by imports from India and China.
The applicant, who had initially requested the imposition of anti-dumping duties back in 2020, ceased operations in 2023, further prompting the Ministry's review.
During the course of this review, the Ministry will carefully consider whether it is appropriate to maintain, modify, eliminate, or reapply the definitive countervailing duty on imports of PFY from China and India.
To provide context, Mexico had initiated an anti-dumping investigation into polyester filament yarn originating from these two countries on March 31, 2020. Subsequently, on September 29, 2021, Mexico issued a final affirmative ruling on the matter, deciding to impose an anti-dumping tax of US $0.532 per kg.
However, due to the adverse impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the Mexican textile industry, the implementation of these anti-dumping duties was postponed for one year.
Following the expiration of this extension, Mexico proceeded to impose the anti-dumping duty. Nonetheless, in light of the closure of the applicant's factory, the Ministry has opted to revisit the matter and undertake a thorough review of the anti-dumping duty's applicability.
The EU-funded New Cotton Project has successfully concluded its three-and-a-half-year mission of exploring the possibilities of fibre-to-fibre recycling in the textile industry. Here's a breakdown of the project's concept, goals, progress, and potential impact:
Concept and initiative
The project aimed to establish a circular value chain for garment production. Discarded textiles were collected, sorted, and transformed into Infinna fibers, a regenerated cellulose material developed by Infinited Fiber Company. These fibers were then used to create new fabrics for clothing lines.
The project aimed to establish a closed-loop system for garment production. Here's how it worked:
1. Collection and sorting: Used clothing was collected and sorted.
2. Regeneration: The sorted textiles were transformed into new, high-quality Infinna fibers using Infinited Fiber Company's technology.
3. Manufacturing: The regenerated fibers were spun into yarns and woven into fabrics.
4. Production and sales: Leading brands like Adidas and H&M used these fabrics to create garments like the adidas by Stella McCartney tracksuit and an H&M printed jacket and jeans.
Scalability and circularity impact
While the project utilized Infinited Fiber Company's technology, the learnings and established collaborations emphasize open knowledge sharing and new forms of partnership across the textile industry. This suggests a future where the core concept of fibre-to-fibre recycling can be adapted with advancements from various players.
The project highlighted challenges in scaling up this process. Here's what's needed:
Collaboration: Different industry players need to work together, with design incorporating end-of-life considerations from the start.
Infrastructure development: Improved systems for used textile collection, sorting, and pre-processing are crucial.
Data availability: Better data collection on textile waste quantities and types is essential for informed decision-making.
The project's success suggests Infinna-like regenerated fibers can significantly reduce the environmental impact compared to traditional materials like cotton and viscose. However, widespread adoption requires ongoing research across the entire textile value chain, particularly in sorting technology. The impact on overall circularity is difficult to quantify at this stage. However, the project has demonstrated the potential of regenerated fibers to significantly reduce the environmental footprint compared to traditional materials.
The consortium emphasizes the importance of clear and unified EU legislation to drive sustainable practices in the textile sector. Aligning Extended Producer Responsibility schemes with Ecodesign regulations will help companies prepare for a more circular future.
Looking ahead
The New Cotton Project serves as a stepping stone for a more circular textile industry. Key takeaways include:
1. The importance of collaboration across the value chain.
2. The need for innovation in sorting and recycling infrastructure.
3. The significance of clear consumer communication regarding circularity.
4. The potential of legislation to drive sustainable practices.
The project paves the way for commercially viable circular textile production. However, some aspects need addressing. Chemical recycling optimization, ensuring high chemical recovery rates is necessary to minimize the process' environmental footprint. Educating consumers about circularity in textiles is crucial for wider acceptance. Supportive policies like ‘Extended Producer Responsibility’ can incentivize sustainable practices.
While challenges remain, the project has shown that regenerated fibers like Infinna can be a game-changer for sustainable fashion. With continued research and development, this technology has the potential to revolutionize the way we produce and consume clothing.
The fashion industry is a major contributor to textile waste, with Europe alone generating 5.2 million tons annually. France is proposing a ban on EU exports of used clothing, aiming to curb this waste and prevent African nations from becoming dumping grounds for unwanted garments. This proposal has sparked a debate, raising questions about its effectiveness, potential consequences, and alternative solutions.
A mounting waste crisis
Fast fashion, characterized by cheap, trendy clothing with a short lifespan, is a key driver of textile waste. The European Union alone generates a staggering 5.2 million tons of clothing and footwear waste annually, according to the European Commission. Much of this ends up in landfills or gets shipped to developing countries, particularly in Africa. A 2023 report by the European Environment Agency found that Europe dumps a whopping 90 per cent of its used clothes in Africa and Asia, raising concerns about pollution and environmental damage.
France's backs responsibility and sustainability
France, backed by Sweden and Denmark, argues that the EU must take responsibility for its waste. Their environment ministry emphasizes the environmental damage caused by overflowing landfills in Africa, stating, "Africa must no longer be the dustbin of fast-fashion." The proposed ban aims to incentivize waste reduction and promote a more sustainable clothing industry within the EU.
However, the effectiveness of a ban is debated. While it might reduce waste in Europe, it could disrupt economies in Africa that rely heavily on the second-hand clothing trade. Opponents argue the ban could potentially harm African livelihoods as millions in Africa rely on the sale of imported used clothing for income. A ban could threaten these jobs. Also, it could stifle domestic industry as some argue cheap used clothing hinders the growth of domestic textile industries in Africa. However, the quality of much of the imported clothing is poor, raising concerns about its overall impact. The ban could also disrupt existing trade agreements. A unilateral EU ban could violate existing trade agreements with African nations. The case of the East African Community's failed attempt to ban used clothing imports due to US pressure highlights this potential issue.
For example, the 2016-2020 trade dispute between the East African Community (EAC) and the US over used clothing imports exemplifies the complexities involved. While the EAC sought to boost domestic manufacturing, US pressure ultimately forced them to abandon the ban. This case demonstrates the potential for unintended consequences and the importance of international cooperation.
Dialogue and comprehensive solutions the way forward
Indeed, a complete ban on used clothing exports might be an oversimplification. Instead, a more comprehensive approach is likely needed. Experts suggest some possibilities:
Promoting sustainable Production: Incentivize European clothing manufacturers to adopt sustainable practices, such as using recycled materials and designing for durability.
Supporting local manufacturing in Africa: Offer technical and financial assistance to help African countries develop their textile industries and create a level playing field with imported goods.
Improve sorting and recycling systems: Invest in better infrastructure to sort and recycle used clothing within the EU, reducing reliance on export.
Global dialogue: An open dialogue between the EU, African nations, and other stakeholders is crucial to find solutions that address environmental concerns while protecting livelihoods and fostering development.
Certainly, the proposed EU ban on used clothing exports highlights the complex relationship between waste management, economic development, and global trade. While a complete ban might be a symbolic gesture, it's unlikely to be the most effective solution. A multi-pronged approach that addresses the root causes of textile waste and promotes a more sustainable clothing industry across the globe is likely a more promising path forward.
The textile yarn market is expected to reach $23.51 billion by 2030, driven by a rising global demand for textiles across various industries, reveals a study by Virtue Market Research, highlighting growth projections, trends, and opportunities. Despite pandemic's disruption of supply chains, the textile yarn market exhibits resilience. The growing demand for textiles in apparel, home furnishings, automotive parts, and industrial applications fuels long-term market growth. As economies recover and manufacturing resumes, the pent-up demand for textiles is expected to propel the market forward.
Sustainability in the spotlight
A key driver is the increasing focus on sustainability. Consumers are demanding eco-friendly textiles made from recycled fibers, organic cotton, and biodegradable materials. Manufacturers are responding by investing in sustainable production practices and certifications to meet this growing demand.
The market presents a significant opportunity in technical textiles -- those used for medical, hygiene, and protective applications. The pandemic has underscored the importance of technical textiles in healthcare, driving demand for yarns in medical gowns, masks, and hygiene products. Manufacturers are expanding production and diversifying product lines to capitalize on this trend.
Digitalization revolutionizes yarn production
Digitalization and automation are transforming yarn manufacturing. Technologies like artificial intelligence, the Internet of Things (IoT), and data analytics are being integrated into equipment to enhance efficiency, quality control, and productivity. Automated machines enable faster production, higher yarn consistency, and reduced costs. Additionally, real-time process monitoring, predictive maintenance, and optimized production schedules are facilitated by digitalization, giving manufacturers a competitive edge.
Chemical yarns, encompassing synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, and acrylic, represent the largest market segment due to their versatility, durability, and affordability. However, plant-based yarns, derived from natural fibers like cotton, hemp, flax, and bamboo, are the fastest-growing segment. These fibers' softness, breathability, and biodegradability appeal to eco-conscious consumers, propelling market growth.
Artificial reigns, animal yarns rise
Artificial yarns, including polyester, nylon, acrylic, and viscose, dominate the market due to their versatility and ability to mimic natural fibers with added benefits like wrinkle, moisture, and abrasion resistance. However, animal yarns derived from sheep, goats, and silkworms are experiencing significant growth. Wool's warmth, softness, and moisture-wicking properties make it ideal for winter wear and outdoor clothing, while silk's luxurious texture and sheen are sought after in high-end fashion.
The apparel segment, encompassing a wide range of clothing and fashion items, is the largest application for yarns. Both natural and synthetic fibers are used, offering a variety of textures, colors, and performance properties. However, the industrial segment, encompassing technical textiles used in automotive, aerospace, construction, and healthcare, is the fastest-growing. These yarns are engineered for specific performance requirements like strength, durability, heat resistance, and chemical resistance, finding applications in tire cords, conveyor belts, ropes, hoses, filters, and medical textiles.
The Asia-Pacific region, including China, India, Japan, and South Korea, is the largest market segment due to abundant raw materials, low labor costs, and supportive government policies. However, North America, which includes the United States, Canada, and Mexico, is the fastest-growing region. This growth is driven by rising demand for sustainable and high-quality textiles, technological advancements, and a shift towards locally produced goods. The pandemic has accelerated e-commerce adoption and digital technologies, further propelling online retail channels for textiles and apparel in North America.
Sustainability, technology, and collaboration
Sustainability initiatives are a key differentiator for companies. Focus areas include using recycled fibers, water-saving techniques, and minimizing carbon emissions. Collaboration with sustainability organizations, participation in certification programs, and transparent communication about these efforts are crucial for building trust with consumers.
Companies are embracing digitalization to streamline operations, enhance efficiency, and meet consumer demands. Advanced manufacturing technologies like automation, robotics, and data analytics are being implemented. Additionally, companies leverage digital platforms for marketing, sales, and distribution, enabling them to reach a wider audience and adapt to changing market trends.
Collaboration and partnerships are becoming increasingly prevalent. Examples include textile manufacturers collaborating with technology firms to develop innovative yarns, brands partnering with suppliers for sustainable product lines, and strategic alliances for market expansion. These collaborations leverage combined expertise, resources, and networks to drive market growth and competitiveness.
In conclusion, the textile yarn market is poised for significant growth, driven by rising demand for textiles, a focus on sustainability, and technological advancements.
The recently concluded Performance Days Spring Fair 2024 was a resounding success, exceeding expectations and solidifying its position as a leading industry event. Held on March 20th and 21st at the Munich Trade Fair Center, the fair attracted a record-breaking number of participants, with over 3,000 trade visitors and nearly 440 exhibitors from across the globe.
This year's fair served as a platform for the sports and fashion industry to explore upcoming trends for the S/S 2026 season. Visitors gained insights into innovative materials and fiber developments, fostered new collaborations, and exchanged ideas that will shape the future of textile design.
A wealth of information platforms
Performance Days offered a diverse range of information platforms catering to the industry's needs. The Trend Forum, featuring the highly anticipated "Beyond Bottles - the Future of Polyester" Focus Topic, attracted significant interest. Additionally, the newly integrated Footwear Area, complete with a dedicated forum, provided a space for footwear-specific discussions.
Other highlights included the Innovation Area showcasing cutting-edge developments, the program of insightful Expert Talks, and the Sustainability Lounge. The Media Lounge and the new Reality Zone offered additional opportunities for learning and networking. The Reality Zone, in collaboration with Accelerating Circularity, focused on solutions for a circular textile supply chain. The Italian Bar served as a central meeting point, fostering connections and industry get-togethers.
Record attendance and industry recognition
Marco Weichert, CEO of Performance Days, expressed his delight at the fair's success. The record attendance is a testament to the event's significance for the textile industry. Weichert emphasized Performance Day’s role in driving innovation and shaping the future of textile design.
The diversity of participants, including designers, buyers, manufacturers, and experts, contributed to a vibrant exchange of ideas and expertise. This collaborative environment is crucial for advancing the industry.
New Platforms: Reality zone and technology hub
Performance Days continues to evolve beyond a traditional material fair, establishing itself as a comprehensive information platform. Two new platforms debuted at the Spring Fair and are slated to continue at the upcoming autumn event.
The Reality Zone introduced a workshop format, collaborating with Accelerating Circularity to explore solutions for a circular textile supply chain. The workshops connected polyester recyclers with fabric producers, fostering collaboration and promoting the use of recycled materials.
The Technology Hub, another exciting addition, addressed the growing trend of digitalization. Companies showcased solutions for digitalization processes within the textile industry. This platform provided a space for discussing and exploring innovative technologies that support sustainable practices.
Expert talks, sustainability lounge spark engagement
The Expert Talks program, featuring presentations, panel discussions, and Pecha Kuchas, remained a popular attraction. Kim Scholze, CSO at Sympatex, stepped in as moderator, leading insightful discussions on various topics. These included current trends in the Trend Forum, the future of color palettes, and achieving sustainability within the footwear industry.
The Sustainability Lounge, focusing on learning, participation, exchange, and networking, was equally well-received. Organizer Anna Rodewald highlighted the importance of collaboration and knowledge sharing for achieving sustainability goals within the industry.
Looking ahead
The next Performance Days fair is scheduled for October 23rd and 24th, 2024, at the Munich Trade Fair Center. The Performance Days platform, including the Marketplace and inspiring Material Stories themes, will continue to be a valuable resource for the industry throughout the year.
A global leader in providing Total Quality Assurance services across industries, Intertek has launched the digital platform iCare in India, following its successful debut in Türkiye last November.
Offering a comprehensive solution for managing and monitoring the testing processes of textile manufacturers, Intertek addresses the longstanding issues of transparency and traceability in lab sample processing and testing. The platform leverages Intertek's unparalleled Science-based Customer Excellence Advantage to enhance the industry’s capability to deliver products to market.
Driven by regulatory demands and evolving consumer expectations, the textile industry increasingly demands holistic, data-driven Total Quality Assurance solutions. iCare caters to these needs by providing real-time insights into sample status and progress through an intuitive interface. It boasts of features like chatbots and live chat that enable customers to interact seamlessly with Intertek experts and perform various actions, such as managing test requests and report downloads, all through one centralised digital platform accessible round the clock.
Sandeep Das, Regional Managing Director -South Asia and President -Global Softlines and Hardlines, says, iCare provides end-to-end traceability besides streamlining communication with technical experts, ultimately ensuring product quality, safety, and sustainability across the value chain.
Manu Gahlowt, Director, Softlines India, adds, Intertek's longstanding commitment to innovation and customer-centricity positions iCare as a user-friendly solution tailored to meet India's evolving textile industry needs.
iCare currently operates alongside Intertek's existing suite of Total Quality Assurance offerings, further empowering customers to benefit from comprehensive solutions. However, Intertek plans to extend iCare's services to other key textile markets such as Bangladesh and Vietnam.
Parent company of the popular clothing brand Uniqlo, Fast Retailing plans to optimise the brand’s store operations in China by closing 50 underperforming stores while simultaneously opening 80 new ones.
Takeshi Okazaki, Chief Financial Officer, Fast Retailing, reveals, the company aims to achieve comparable average store sales in China to those in Japan within the next decade. To attain this goal, it will focus on shuttering unprofitable outlets over the next 2-3 years, directing its efforts towards launching new stores in high-traffic areas and prime locations.
By the end of the Japanese fiscal year ending in August 2024, Fast Retailing plans to increase Uniqlo storecount in China by 30 stores. Beyond August 2024, it may shift to maintaining a modest net increase in store numbers, adds Okazaki.
Fast Retailing also aims to bolster its e-commerce sales, which currently constitute 20 per cent of its revenue in the Chinese market.
Despite boasting over 1,000 stores in China, Uniqlo's sales in the country still trail behind those in Japan. As of the fiscal year ending on Aug 30, 2023, Uniqlo reported sales of Yen 890.4 billion from its 800 stores in Japan, compared to Yen 620.2 billion from 1,031 stores in China.
A report released by a coalition of prominent apparel suppliers proposes seven recommendations to prioritise value chain decarbonisation and improve funding accessibility, availability, and affordability in the industry.
Titled ‘From Catwalk to Carbon Neutral: Mobilising Funding for a Net Zero Fashion Industry, the report emphasises the crucial role of collaboration across the value chain and the necessity of innovative financing mechanisms to align with the objectives of the Paris Agreement.
Co-commissioned by leading apparel companies including, MAS Holdings, and Simple Approach, the report sheds light on the pivotal role of innovative financing in the quest to decarbonise the apparel sector.
Its recommendations include advocating policy support by the brands and manufacturers to facilitate decarbonisation, adherence to rigorous transparency and sustainability reporting standards, including financing schemes and emissions reductions.
The report urges brands, retailers, and value chain partners to pilot and expand the Fair Climate Fund, adhering to Fairtrade principles and backed by an independent verification agency.
It also recommends stakeholders to increase funding for decarbonisation in manufacturing countries, offering low-interest and SME-friendly schemes to underwrite risks. Further, it urges commercial banks to allocate a fixed percentage of their lending portfolios to decarbonisation projects in the apparel sector's supply chain.
Stakeholders should reframe the conversation on decarbonisation to focus on supply chain efforts rather than solely burdening manufacturers, the report says.
It advises value chain actors to reassess relationships with suppliers to mitigate business risks associated with decarbonisation investments.
Moreover, the report urges the industry to explore unconventional funding models beyond traditional debt-based solutions. Drawing insights from interviews with 21 apparel manufacturers and key stakeholders, alongside extensive desk research, it offers a nuanced understanding of funding needs and constraints while proposing equitable and effective solutions.has urged the apparel industry to adopt a fairer and more impactful approach to financing climate action.
Supported by organizations including Deutsche Gesellschaft für Internationale Zusammenarbeit GmbH, Fabric Asia Project, and Transformers Foundation, the report is endorsed by influential bodies like the International Apparel Federation and Fashion Producer Collective.
As highlighted during a recent comparison, the K 48 compact spinning machine by Rieter consumes 18 per cent lower energy than its competitors.
Conducted at a Turkish spinning mill, the comparison showed, equipped with 1,824 spindles, the K 48 machine saves approximately $12,000 annually, reinforcing Rieter's position as a leader in energy-efficient compact-spinning technology.
Conducted at spindle speeds of 19,200 rpm to produce Ne 30 cotton compact yarn, the trials at the Turkish facility showed, the K 48 requires only 1.21 kWh/kg of energy compared to the competitor's 1.48 kWh/kg. This advantage was further confirmed in another comparison for Ne 40 cotton yarn at 19,500 rpm.
The primary energy consumers in compact spinning are the spindle drive (75 to 80 per cent) and the suction system (12 to 17 per cent). Rieter's efficient suction system plays a significant role in its machines' energy savings, as competitors typically require additional energy-consuming suction systems for the compacting process.
Additionally, Rieter's Lena spindles contribute to lower energy consumption, offering a potential 6 per cent energy saving compared to standard spindles. Furthermore, the efficiency of the main motor drive is crucial, with Rieter's commitment to optimal energy utilisation evident in their use of up to 110 kW, highly efficient main motors with IE4 technology.
