FW
Global retail giant Uniqlo continues to promote peace through its ongoing Peace For All charity T-shirt project, unveiling four captivating designs that symbolise a collective aspiration for harmony.
Set to release on March 18, 2024, the latest collection showcases a diverse array of designs from notable individuals. It comprises a heartfelt design featuring by renowned Japanese anatomist Takeshi Yoro, featuring a photograph of his cherished cat Maru, accompanied by the poignant phrase 'Hope means we can change.'
The late New York artist Jason Polan's whimsical illustration graces the pocket of another T-shirt, infusing it with playful charm. Legendary calligrapher Hakujyu Kuiseko presents a striking composition adorned with Japanese text conveying the profound message, 'If you expand the circle, it's a world. If you shrink it, it's an ego.' Afghan-born American novelist and UNHCR Goodwill Ambassador Khaled Hosseini, celebrated for his acclaimed work 'The Kite Runner,' contributes an elegant design emphasizing that 'Peace is our highest good.'
Under the umbrella of Fast Retailing, Uniqlo's parent company, 100 percent of profits generated from Peace For All T-shirt sales, equivalent to 20 per cent of the selling price, are allocated to three esteemed international aid organisations—UNHCR, Save the Children, and Plan International. These organisations tirelessly work towards alleviating the plight of individuals affected by poverty, discrimination, violence, and conflict.
Since its inception on June 17, 2022, featuring designs from 36 contributors, the Peace For All initiative has garnered remarkable success, with Uniqlo selling over 3.2 million T-shirts worldwide. By the end of January 2024, the initiative had raised an impressive sum of over JPY 970 million (approximately $6.45 million).
These substantial donations have facilitated a multitude of charitable endeavors, including emergency humanitarian assistance for displaced individuals, protection and support for children affected by conflict and disaster, and the global prevention of early marriage.
Through the Peace For All project, Uniqlo continues to embody its commitment to social responsibility, fostering a brighter, more compassionate world one T-shirt at a time.
Pakistan will organise the 3rd International Conference on 'Knowledge-Based Textiles' from March 05-06 at the esteemed National Textile University.
Hosted by the university, a pioneer in textile education, the event is supported by the Grand Challenge Fund Project (KnowTex), generously funded by the Higher Education Commission (HEC) of Pakistan. With a focus on evaluating the current state of value addition in textile products and strategising for sustainable growth in textile exports, the conference aims to foster scientific discussions and collaboration among academic scientists, research scholars, and industry experts.
Diverse topics ranging from textiles, composites, circular textiles, functional and smart textiles, to natural fibers and innovation in production processes will be explored during the conference. More than 30 speakers hailing from various corners of the globe including the USA, UK, China, and Qatar, among others, will enrich the event with their insights and experiences.
One of the highlights of the conference is a workshop on incorporating Circularity in Textile value chains, scheduled for March 5th, followed by the main conference on Knowledge-based Textiles. On March 6th, the Interloop Textile Innovation Exhibition and the Ceremony on Innovation Awards will take place, showcasing groundbreaking projects in circularity and sustainability from across the country.
The innovation competition promises to be a platform for over 250 delegations, featuring 40 innovative projects, and attracting the participation of 25 universities and 100 industries. Additionally, six textile associations including PHMA, PRGMEA, APTMA, APBUMA, CLOA, and the Dyes & Chemical Association will contribute to the rich tapestry of activities throughout the conference.
Two engaging panel discussions are also scheduled, addressing critical topics such as "Navigating the Global Fashion Landscape: Challenges and Opportunities for Textile Manufacturers" and "Charting the Path: Advancing Pakistan’s Textile Industry Through Circular Practices". These discussions will be moderated by esteemed academics Dr. Shahid Rasul from Northumbria University, UK, and Dr. Munir Ashraf from the National Textile University, Pakistan, respectively.
In a groundbreaking move towards environmental sustainability, a memorandum of understanding (MoU) was inked at Bharat Tex 2024 between the Textiles Committee, the Government e-Marketplace (GeM), and the Standing Conference of Public Enterprises (SCOPE).
The agreement heralds a significant stride towards promoting the upcycling of textile waste and scrap, ushering in a new era of sustainable and circular textile practices.
At the core of this initiative lies upcycling, the process of transforming textile waste into products of heightened value and functionality. The Ministry of Commerce and Industry emphasized that upcycling not only prolongs material lifecycles but also drastically reduces energy, chemical, and water consumption compared to conventional recycling methods.
The MoU outlines a strategic partnership wherein GeM will collaborate closely with stakeholders in the upcycling ecosystem, particularly targeting underserved seller groups. The aim is to grant these groups direct market access in public procurement through GeM outlet stores, bypassing intermediaries. This initiative aligns seamlessly with the broader #VocalforLocal movement, striving to amplify the visibility and sales of upcycled textile products.
Furthermore, the partnership promises to engage stakeholders across the textile upcycling sector through a spectrum of activities, including advocacy, awareness campaigns, outreach programs, mobilisation, and capacity building for last-mile upcyclers. This holistic approach aims to nurture a robust upcycling ecosystem, facilitated by stakeholder consultations and the development of technical specifications for upcycled product catalogues, ultimately streamlining access for government buyers.
The signing ceremony witnessed the presence of Darshana Vikram Jardosh, Minister of State for Textiles and Railways, alongside senior officials from the Ministry of Textiles. PK Singh, CEO, GeM, also played a pivotal role, highlighting the collaborative spirit of the participating organisations. The MoU was formally signed by S P Verma, Secretary of the Textiles Committee, Ajit B Chavan, additional CEO, GeM, and SubhRatna, General Manager of SCOPE.
Birkenstock Holding Plc’s latest earnings report showcased a resilient business model amid a challenging market landscape for casual footwear.
The company’s sales surged by 22 per cent Y-o-Y to €303 million ($328 million) for the quarter ending December 31, outperforming analyst estimates by a significant margin. Adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization (EBITDA) stood at €81 million, surpassing expectations of €75.5 million.
Since its IPO in October, Oliver Riechert, CEO has emphasised Birkenstock's commitment to sustaining its impressive growth trajectory. The company's strategy focuses on maintaining its fashion appeal, expanding production capacity in Germany and Portugal, and penetrating new markets like China and India. Reichert underscores the company's resilience amid soaring demand, driven by its direct-to-consumer approach and full-price sales strategy.
Birkenstock acknowledges the need to enhance supply capacity to meet escalating consumer demand. Despite planned investments impacting short-term profitability, the company remains steadfast in achieving its gross profit margin target of over 60 per cent and adjusted EBITDA margin in the low thirties percent.
In contrast to sluggish performance from industry giants like Nike and Under Armour in North America, Birkenstock experienced double-digit revenue growth across all regions. The company’s revenues in the Americas grew by 19 per cent driven by strong consumer momentum, while revenues in Europe and the APAM surged by 33 per cent and 51 per cent, respectively.
Birkenstock's journey as a publicly traded company saw a shaky start on the New York Stock Exchange, followed by a remarkable recovery with shares climbing 11 per cent above the listing price. The company's fiscal year 2023 results, announced in January, marked its most successful year to date.
Driven by a heightened global concern for environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry, the sustainable fashion market is witnessing transformative trends.
As per the report titled, The Sustainable Fashion Market, the industry is supporting initiatives like the UN Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, further emphasising its commitment to reduce emissions. It is witnessing the emergence of several trends including the booming second-hand market, projected to reach $84 billion, fueled by eco-awareness and facilitated by platforms like Thrift and Depop.
The rental market, exemplified by platforms like Rent the Runway, offers access to designer fashion without ownership, although questions about transportation emissions arise.
Having dominated the sustainable fashion market in 2023, North America is expected to continue its dominance during the forecast period. North America's market expansion is driven by a surge in ethical consumerism, with the United States particularly emphasising sustainable practices in clothing, footwear, and accessories.
The Sustainable Fashion Market Report covers various aspects of the industry's sustainable practices and trends. It analysis includes the entire value chain, from raw material sourcing and production processes to distribution, consumption, and end-of-life considerations. The report digs into the evolving consumer preferences and increased awareness regarding environmental and ethical concerns, shaping the dynamics of the sustainable fashion market. It provides stakeholders with a holistic view of the sustainable fashion market by exploring its size, growth potential, challenges, and opportunities.
The Indian textiles and clothing industry, primarily reliant on domestically grown cotton, faces a tumultuous period marked by surmounting challenges. Despite grappling with issues like high capital costs, tariff barriers, and soaring power expenses, the sector traditionally leveraged competitive domestic cotton prices against international counterparts. However, the tide turned following the removal of cotton from the Essential Commodities Act in February 2007 and its subsequent inclusion on the MCX cotton trading platform. This move ushered in an era dominated by multinational cotton traders, leveraging cheaper funds and hedging facilities abroad.
MSME spinning sector squeezed by supply shortages
India's MSME spinning segment, constituting over 85 per cent of the total spinning capacity, finds itself in a perennial struggle to secure cotton, especially during the peak season from November to March. Limited working capital, compounded by exorbitant interest rates and a mandatory 25 per cent margin, hamper procurement efforts. Consequently, to bridge the deficit during the off-season (April to October), spinners resort to trade purchases and imports. The existing 11 per cent import duty on all cotton varieties except ELS cotton further exacerbates dependence on traders during lean periods, particularly when market prices fall below the Minimum Support Price (MSP), necessitating intervention from the Cotton Corporation of India (CCI).
Global cotton dynamics: Oversupply looms
Internationally, Australia anticipates a cotton production of 4.7 million bales with arrivals expected from May 2024 onwards. Meanwhile, Brazil forecasts its largest-ever cotton harvest of approximately 14 million bales, positioning itself as the world's leading cotton exporter. With crop arrivals projected from June 2024 onwards, the global market is poised for a surplus post-July 2024.
Against this backdrop, fabric, garment, and made-ups segments, typically bound by three to four-month export contracts finalized in February and March, confront mounting challenges. Increased yarn prices, driven by speculative cotton pricing, impede their ability to meet export commitments. Addressing this recurring issue necessitates the implementation of a comprehensive "National Fibre Policy" ensuring raw material security and fostering harmony across the textile manufacturing spectrum. Such a policy framework would level the playing field among industry stakeholders, ensuring sustained growth and competitiveness.
Industry voices alarm: Cotton price surge
In press release, S K Sundararaman, Chairman of The Southern India Mills’ Association (SIMA), sounded the alarm over a sudden surge in cotton prices. Within a mere 15 days, cotton prices skyrocketed by 10 to 12 pr cent, sparking panic across the textile value chain. The price of Shankar-6 variety surged from Rs. 55,300 to Rs. 62,000 per candy, intensifying industry concerns.
Sundararaman of SIMA revealed that the Committee on Cotton Production and Consumption (CoCPC) forecasts the cotton crop size for the 2023-24 season at 316.57 lakh bales, with imports estimated at 12 lakh bales. Consumption is projected at 310 lakh bales, with exports at 25 lakh bales, leaving a closing stock of 57.65 lakh bales. He highlighted a surge in mill sector capacity utilization to 80 per cent to 90 per cent, up from 70 per cent to 75 per cent, with approximately 20 lakh bales already contracted for exports. Anticipating a decline in export demand as international cotton prices align with domestic rates, he assured of ample cotton availability owing to the high closing stock.
With 215 lakh bales of cotton already in the market by February 2024, daily arrivals surpassing a lakh bales, Sundararaman noted the influx of high-quality cotton this season. However, he cautioned that the sharp price hikes primarily benefit traders over farmers, posing a significant challenge for the industry. Considering the global cotton landscape, he foresaw increased availability post-July 2024 due to heightened production in Australia, Brazil, and other countries. Expecting a subsequent softening of Indian cotton prices, he advised spinning mills against panic buying, emphasizing the comfortable supply position globally and the need for cautious procurement amidst prevailing rumors.
Call for government intervention
In a bid to stabilize prices and bolster industry competitiveness, Sundararaman urged government intervention. He advocated for a return to CCI's price stabilization policy implemented in June 2016, along with temporary exemptions from the 11 per cent import duty on all cotton varieties during April to October. Such measures, he argued, would mitigate import parity pricing and enhance export competitiveness, facilitating sustainable growth across the textile value chain.
Amidst global production surges and domestic supply uncertainties, the Indian textile industry stands at a critical juncture, clamoring for proactive policy measures to navigate the storm and emerge resilient.
Medium textile and apparel enterprises adopting the SCORE methodology witnessed a remarkable 19 per cent surge in productivity, while small enterprises experienced a commendable 15 per cent enhancement.
The initiative also yielded tangible improvements in operational efficiency. Medium enterprises reported a significant 58 per cent reduction in unnecessary movements, with small enterprises following suit with a commendable 9 per cent decrease. Moreover, rework rates saw a notable decline, with medium enterprises achieving a 21 per cent reduction and small enterprises making strides with a 12 per cent improvement. Concurrently, absenteeism rates dropped by 5 per cecnt, indicative of a more engaged and satisfied workforce.
Many enterprises established internal committees or revamped their hiring processes, leading to a noticeable uptick in LGBTQIAPN+ representation within their workforce.
The impact extended beyond individual enterprises. Brazil's premier training institution for the industry SENAI incorporated SCORE Brazil's methodology into its training programs. This integration solidified the ethos of responsible business practices within Brazil's vibrant apparel sector, setting a precedent for sustainable and inclusive growth in the region.
The Sustaining Competitive and Responsible Enterprises (SCORE) methodology was introduced jointly by the Brazilian Textile and Apparel Industry Association (Abit), the Brazilian Association of Textile Retail (ABVTEX), the National Service of Industrial Training (SENAI) São Paulo, and the International Labor Organization (ILO) Country Office for Brazil in 2023. This groundbreaking approach targeted Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) in the metropolitan area of São Paulo, Brazil's bustling industrial hub.
SCORE Brazil brought tailored modules—Work Cooperation and Responsible Enterprises—developed by the ILO to the forefront of the garment sector, customising them to suit the local landscape. Over the course of the initiative, 67 workers and managers from 15 SMEs participated in rigorous training activities.
Brazilian textile and fashion companies made a notable mark at the latest Première Vision Paris edition, held from February 06-08, buoyed by the support of Texbrasil, a program fostering the internationalisation of Brazil's textile and fashion industry through collaboration between ApexBrasil and Abit.
This year witnessed the largest Brazilian delegation in 14 years, comprising esteemed brands like Atelier Lucius Vilar, Brand Têxtil, Ecosimple, Estúdio Rocha, Finileather, Innovativ, Lúdico Estampas, Moltec, Natural Cotton Color, Nina Galle, Nomad Studio, Nova Kaeru, Oficina Caramelo, Savyon, Stampa Studio, Studio Icertain, and Studio Paraizo.
The event yielded promising outcomes, with over 700 new connections established and sales exceeding $728,000 over the course of three days. Notably, business expectations soared to an impressive $6.5 million for the year. Carina Prieto, Creative Director, Lúdico Estampas, highlighted the invaluable connections forged with clients from key markets such as Russia, the United States, England, and France.
Lilian Kaddissi, Executive Superintendent -Strategic Projects, Abit, emphasised the positive reception from both brands and buyers, dubbing it the best February edition in five years. Buyers exhibited a heightened willingness to engage with Brazilian companies, signaling a prosperous outcome for the delegation.
The Brazilian presence at the event was further underscored by its commitment to sustainability, a central theme that garnered significant attention and recognition.
With 30,340 visitors and 1,180 exhibitors, sustainability emerged as a focal point, echoing the growing global interest in eco-conscious practices within the textile and fashion industry.
YKK Corporation has achieved a significant milestone, securing the highest "A List" rating in the 2023 Climate Change survey conducted by global environmental disclosure nonprofit, CDP.
Out of over 21,000 companies evaluated across climate change, deforestation, and water security criteria, only just under 400 (2 per cent) earned a spot on the prestigious A List for their high-quality environmental data disclosure.
The recognition highlights YKK's unwavering commitment to sustainability, as evidenced by its ambitious Sustainability Vision 2050. Aligned with the United Nations' Sustainable Development Goals, this initiative outlines rigorous targets across five key areas, including climate change.
YKK aims to achieve climate neutrality by 2050, aligning with the Science Based Targets initiative's 1.5°C goal. By 2030, the company aims to slash emissions significantly compared to 2018 levels.
Minoru Maeda, Vice President of the Environment & Safety Management Department, underscored YKK's dedication, rooted in their corporate philosophy of the Cycle of Goodness. Maeda emphasized YKK's implementation of energy-saving measures, adoption of renewable energy, and transparency enhancements through third-party audits.
Collaborating with stakeholders, including customers and suppliers, YKK is committed to reducing greenhouse gas emissions across its value chains, intensifying efforts to minimize environmental impact.
The US apparel industry is undergoing a significant paradigm shift, driven by evolving consumer preferences, changing global dynamics, and technological advancements. Gone are the days of solely relying on low-cost, mass-produced garments from traditional suppliers like China. Consumers are demanding more, pushing the industry towards sustainability, ethical sourcing, and diversification.
There are various reasons for this transformation. These include shifting consumption patterns, evolving buying behaviour, choosing experiences over ownership among others.
A changing consumer
Today's consumers are increasingly concerned about sustainability, ethics, and transparency in their purchases. This is driving demand for eco-friendly materials, ethical production practices, and brand’s promoting social responsibility states McKinsey & Company ‘State of Fashion 2022’ report. Millennials and Gen Z prioritize ethical and sustainable practices. Studies by McKinsey & Company show 60 per cent of global consumers are willing to pay a premium for sustainable products.
Meanwhile fast fashion is facing backlash due to its environmental impact and fleeting trends. Consumers are seeking clothing that reflects their individual style and values, leading to a rise in personalized shopping experiences and on-demand production states Deloitte’s ‘Fashion & Apparel - Industry Outlook 2023’. Demand for ethical and sustainable production practices is prompting brands to diversify sourcing and prioritize eco-friendly materials. As per Euromonitor International ‘Apparel: United States, 2023’ millennials and Gen Z prioritize experiences over material possessions. This translates to a rise in clothing rental services, subscription boxes, and resale platforms, impacting traditional ownership models.
Table: Shifting consumption landscape
| Year | Total US Apparel Imports (in billion US$) | Import Source Shift |
| 2021 | $ 128 | China dominant |
| 2022 (estimated) | $ 132 | Vietnam, Bangladesh gaining share, China decreasing |
| 2023 (projected) | $ 137 | Vietnam, Bangladesh gaining more share, China further decreasing |
• Source: Total US apparel imports data: OTEXA
• Import source shift data: World Trade Organization
Online shopping has revolutionized the buying experience, fostering personalized recommendations and faster delivery, impacting import patterns. Trade tensions and supply chain disruptions are driving some manufacturers to shift production closer to the US market.
Evolving buying behavior
As per Statista’s ‘Digital Commerce Share of Total Retail Sales in the United States 2023’ e-commerce is the primary channel for clothing purchases, growing at a faster rate than physical stores. Mobile shopping and social media platforms are increasingly influencing buying decisions. Brands are bypassing traditional retail channels and selling directly to consumers, offering greater control over brand image and profit margins. This trend is prevalent in athleisure, streetwear, and sustainable fashion brands. Also, as per McKinsey & Company ‘The Age of Personalization’ retailers are leveraging customer data to tailor marketing campaigns, product recommendations, and shopping experiences, leading to more personalized interactions.
Category-specific trends
A look at categories reflects the pattern is similar to many other markets including Europe. In menswear for example, athleisure and casualwear segments is growing, increasing focus on comfort and performance. In women’s wear the demand is for versatile pieces, athleisure, and sustainable materials. Rise of activewear and modest fashion. As for kid’s wear the focus is on comfort, functionality, and sustainability. Also, there is growing demand for gender-neutral clothing and ethical production.
Knitwear continues in popularity especially with demand for athleisure and loungewear with increased focus on natural and recycled fibers. In denimwear the shift is towards sustainable production and demand for comfortable and versatile styles. There is growing demand for performance outerwear and sustainable materials like recycled down.
A look at various segments shows, premium segment continues as consumers are willing to pay more for quality, ethical production, and unique designs. Sustainability credentials are increasingly important in this segment. In value segment, price sensitivity remains high, but demand for quality basics persists. This segment is still sizable, but competition is fierce due to rising raw material costs and labor wages. Value retailers are focusing on innovation and private label offerings to differentiate themselves. Meanwhile, resale platforms, rental services, and subscription boxes are gaining traction, representing new segments within the market.
Table: US apparel imports in volume
| Year | Apparel Import Volume (million metric tons) | Apparel Import Value (US$ billion) |
| 2021 | 3.2 | 107.6 |
| 2022 | 3.1 | 112.4 |
| 2023 (Est.) | 3.0 | 115.0 |
Source: U.S. Census Bureau, OTEXA
The bottomline is paradigm shift in apparel imports reflects a changing consumer landscape. As sustainability, ethics, and personalization become priorities, the US is reshaping its wardrobe. The future holds exciting possibilities for brands and consumers alike, with a focus on innovation, responsibility, and a more conscious approach to fashion.
