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Premium was held in Germany, January 14 to 16, 2020. This is an European business platform for women’s and men’s contemporary fashion. Sustainability and bright colors, be it metallics, fluorescents or lively hues, characterized the offer of many sportswear and denim brands for fall/winter 2020-21.
Denham presented its newly launched collaboration with Candiani Denim using a special bio-cotton denim added with plant-based biodegradable stretch fibers. The outer jacket brand Refrigiwear also aims to take a more sustainable direction and did it by launching a capsule collection of sustainable jackets made with hazardous-chemical-free Limonta fabrics produced according to reduced environmental impact production cycles. The brand also uses sustainable paddings such as Sorona, Thermore and microflock. When delivered to stores they hang on recycled plastic hangers and are wrapped up in biodegradable material envelops.
Loads of bright and lively colors and metallic hues are the real must of the season. Among the companies that played with metallics and lucid surfaces were Canadian Classics, Invicta, Bomboogie and Refrigiwear. Opting for fluorescent yellows and acid greens was Colmar, which also offered lots of different clashing color mixes in the same jacket. Also hot are teddy bear effect jackets–either used for inner linings (as Colmar did) or as cuddling jackets.
Denim Première Vision will have take place in Berlin from November 24 to 25, 2020. The trade show is international both in terms of its exhibitors and visitors. Exhibitors and visitors will be presented an environment rich with inspiration and business opportunities. Berlin was chosen as it is at a crossroads of cultures. From Berlin the show aims at attracting more countries, especially in Northern Europe like, Sweden and Norway, Netherlands, Belgium and Eastern European countries such as, the Czech Republic. By setting up in Berlin, Denim Premiere Vision is taking a step forward in exploring the denim industry today and tomorrow.
Berlin has a rich history and is open to different subcultures and identities. It is cosmopolitan, technological, contemporary and strongly focused on eco-responsibility. The city is a unique mix of creativity, art, music and history. The Berlin fashion industry boasts 2,800 registered companies, including 800 designer labels–from high-end to street wear brands–and a broad array of eco-responsible collections. It also hosts 60 annual events, which bring together over 70,000 professionals. And, also important, it hosts eleven fashion and design schools therefore ensuring a constant injection of fresh ideas.
Despite recording impressive growth figures in recent years, Vietnam’s textile and apparel sector has failed to become deeply involved in the global supply chain. Most domestic businesses in the sector outsource to foreign businesses. Although the nation has recorded a trade surplus in yarn and garments, it has suffered a hefty trade deficit in fabric and fiber. Domestic fabrics meet less than 50 per cent of the sector’s demand, forcing the country to import huge amounts of fabrics every year. Yarn output over the last 20 years has grown 12-fold. Local firms during 2019 produced over 2.5 million tons of yarn, of which exports reached more than 1.5 million tons, while fabric output also soared by six times. In spite of these strong figures, products supporting the garment and textile sector failed to meet demand, especially garment products for exports. The supporting industry has been unable to produce fabrics and raw materials that meet requirements regarding quality and diversification of goods.
If Vietnam is unable to meet the goods origin requirements under the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership, and the EU-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement, then it will face challenges when it comes to enjoying the preferential treatment from these free trade agreements.
Nonprofits are launching programs to prevent and eradicate child labor in Mexico’s fashion supply chain. World Vision Mexico, a Christian aid organization, and C&A Foundation, the philanthropic arm of European clothing chain C&A, will be rolling out the two-year initiative in six communities across Tehuacán in the state of Puebla, a region known as much for denim production as for its high degree of social inequality. More than 59 per cent of Puebla’s population lives in poverty.
Tehuacán is an area with a high rate of violence, and other situations where human rights of children, adolescents and adults are being violated have also been identified, such as human trafficking and child labor. Child labor is prevalent among providers in the textile industries. The project will feature a comprehensive approach that includes training on how to conduct detection sessions, keep children and adolescents in school, and create public awareness campaigns at the community level.
World Vision Mexico and the C&A Foundation will also be working to revise protocols on researching child labor in the region and craft more effective strategies for protecting children’s rights. Interventions through the program are expected to have a direct effect on 500 children and an indirect one on 2,000 more.
Primark is intensifying programs to increase levels of organic and sustainable product in its stores. The retailers is increasing five-fold its sustainable cotton program so that by 2022 it will have trained 1,60,000 farmers in India, Pakistan and China in more sustainable farming practices.
The Primark price point is such that it continues to draw customers in. Primark, which trades from 376 stores but does not have an online offer, generates about half of AB Foods' revenue and profit. The group also owns major sugar, grocery, agriculture and ingredients arms. Its reported revenue rose four per cent year on year on a constant currency basis in the 16 weeks to January 4. 2019. Primark sales rose 4.5 per cent on the same basis, driven by new store openings. Like-for-like sales growth was flat. In the UK, Primark's sales rose four per cent, with a marginal decline in like-for-like sales but a gain in market share. Primark also achieved like-for-like growth in the euro zone and in the United States, where it is looking to open more stores.
Major UK store groups are not expecting a bounce in consumer spending in 2020 after a subdued Christmas, partly blaming continuing Brexit uncertainty.
India will not allow any imports without the HSN code. Standards will be set up for Indian goods and services to meet international requirements so that brand India is recognised in the world as a provider of quality products and services. The aim is to have zero tolerance for sub-standard products and services from the industry and consumers and to have a commitment for quality, sincerity, customer satisfaction and not be the second best. India’s free trade agreements with other countries have not led to the growth of trade and business because poor quality products and services get restricted with non-tariff barriers when exported. The United States has 8,000 technical barriers to trade (TBTs), Brazil has 3,879, China has 2,872 and India has only 439 TBTs.
The new Bureau of Indian Standards Act is taking a fresh look at all standards for goods and services to balance the interests of consumers with that of the industry that will enable the culture of quality to take root in the country. The sixth National Standards Conclave was organised in New Delhi this month by the department of commerce under the ministry of commerce and industry, the Confederation of Indian Industry, the Bureau of Indian Standards, the Export Inspection Council of India, the National Accreditation Board for Certification Bodies and the Centre for Research on International Trade.
As the global active wear industry continues to grow, more companies are moving into the space. Online searches for leggings with pockets were up 180 per cent in the last three months of 2019, while searches for zip leggings rose 76 per cent over that same period. Leggings have become a key staple of the modern wardrobe. Now leggings come almost entirely of virgin plastic. Leggings are used for both working out and everyday wear.
Nordstrom and Macy’s have added more products and more drops to their private label active wear brands — Zella for Nordstrom and Ideology for Macy’s. There is a high demand for private label active wear within department stores. Fast fashion company Nasty Gal dropped its first active wear collection consisting of leggings, sports bras, tees and swimsuits. Fitness studio SoulCycle is ramping up its own retail operation.
Some companies that are strictly in the active wear space, and have been since the beginning, are trying out different partnerships and business models to stay ahead of competition. For example, Bandier entered 2020 with seven retail locations and plans to open more throughout the year. In 2019, the company’s revenue grew 60 per cent year over year.
Samshék announced its elevated all day casual wear curated just for you and your body type. The style emphasizes on comfort, relaxation, and informality. One can select from wide range of Casual Dresses, Polo, Tops, Tees, Jumpsuits and Palazzos. One shoulder ruffled blouse, Halter spaghetti top, Boho chic dress, basic maxi dress, pointer collar jersey dress are few of the best preferred. For day-today college look opt from a variety of tees, tops and crop tops. For a semi-formal look opt for monochrome casual dresses. Be it any occasion, Samshék is one-stop shop to fetch all your needs for a perfect casual to party look. One can get maximum eyeballs by dressing up with the best styles from Samshék.
Samshék, being one of its kind, tech-based fashion house, and offers custom made European outfits like corporate shirts, dresses, tops, jumpsuits ranging from casual to evening look.
Samshék is also one of the first to introduce the 3D body scanning technology in India and runs the campaign #sizenobar which creates clothing for any size and any body type. They also have a digital option to input one’s personalised measurements at their store and online as well.
Samshék India’s first tech fashion brand that specializes in affordable luxury clothing for women. A fashion forward tech brand that combines digital experience with inspirational fashion to empower women to feel confident in their own skin. Their mantra is to offer fashion and quality combined with innovation and sustainability. The brand also offers customized clothing best suited to one's body shape and personal style. On the technology front- they have introduced one of the first 3D body scanner technology in India for taking personalized measurements.
Berlin, January 13th to 17th, 2020 the new year for revamping fashion has begun and ISKO is creating a presence across the board at the Berlin Fashion Week. With an agenda fully packed with advanced and responsible innovation, special projects, panels and happenings, the mill will take part in Neonyt, Selvedge Run and Premium to share its knowledge and vision.
NEONYT: FASHION, SUSTAINABILITY, INNOVATION
The 7th edition of ISKO I-SKOOLTM, the world’s most prestigious denim design awards; will showcase its latest responsible innovation, the new R-TWOTM denim fabrics; Also provide its expertise during two panels “When Denim Needs to be Reinvented” and “Defining Sustainability” and cohost the NEONYT PARTY.
ISKO I-SKOOLTM 7 launch event
Neonyt is the chosen platform for the launch of ISKO I-SKOOLTM, the educational project promoted by ISKO and Creative RoomTM. Aiming at nurturing creativity through hands-on experience of denim’s infinite potential, it is enriched by an authoritative network of leading players making its competence and expertise available.
R-TWOTM: ISKO goes 100% responsible
ISKO will be at booth THO.G/A11 – Hangar 4 exhibiting the new R-TWOTM denim fabrics, a responsible mix of certified reused cotton and certified recycled polyester. These have been used to create ISKO’s Spring Summer 2021 collection, a selection of which will be displayed together with garments from the latest and innovative ISKO x Miles Johnson partnership. Inspired by the creative theme “Light on the Land”, the capsule collection perfectly demonstrates how fabrics belonging to the platform can be used to create compelling denim solutions.
Celebrating and sharing knowledge
The company will cohost the NEONYT PARTY as well as share its vision and expertise through two informative panels. Ebru Ozkucuk Guler, ISKO Senior Sustainability and CSR Executive, will speak on the “Denim collaborations How to build a real value chain?” panel (January 14th, 12:15 – 1:45pm, Neonyt Fashionsustain Stage) and Rosey Cortazzi, ISKO Global Marketing Director, will take part in the discussion investigating “Global impact: when Denim Needs to be Reinvented” (January 15th, 4.00 - 5.00pm, Neonyt Prepeek Area).
PREMIUM: THE INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS FORUM FOR ADVANCED AND CONTEMPORARY FASHION January 14th to 16th, 2020.
Last but by no means is least in the list of ISKO’s engagements in Berlin the Responsible Future panel talks at Premium. These will take place in Hall 3 of Station in Berlin and, on January 15th at 2.30pm, Elena Faleschini, ISKO’s Global Field Marketing Manager, will provide insights and knowledge in the panel “Denim&Sustainability”.
SELVEDGE RUN: A CURATED SELECTION OF INTERNATIONAL ICONIC AND HERITAGE BRANDS
January 14th to 16th, 2020. Selvedge Run was the must-see event of the German capital’s fashion week. This is where ISKO will present a unique collection of responsible garments featuring the innovative R-TWOTM fabrics.
If spring/summer 2020 runways are to go by, trendy tights have caught the attention of many designers across the globe. British designer Richard Quinn has launched a new range of tights decorated with brash florals to match the prints on his gowns. The mania of logo is also rife with labels like Gucci, Saks Potts and Fendi splattering their signage on tights this season.
High price and environmental concerns lead to boycott
However, one of the disadvantages of investing in these extortionate stockings is their price tags often far exceed their price-per-wear. As these tights are worn only a handful of times before being either torn to shreds or dumped in landfills, they have become a huge cause of concern for environmentalists. Campaigners like Extinction Rebellion and the Environmental Audit Committee conducted an inquiry into fast fashion last year and decided to boycott fast fashion and fur, shirking tights under the radar. Made from greenhouse gas emitting nylon, tights are like the single-use plastic of the textile industry. They are incredibly difficult to recycle and are often dumped into landfills.
Opting for eco-friendly tights
However, many hosiery manufactures are now producing eco-friendly tights. One such manufacturer, Clayton makes tights made of a mixture of yarns. It combines both
recycled nylon and micro encapsulation technology that contains aloe vera, retinol and vitamin E. These yarns are sold from its family’s yarn business in England.
Another company, TLC runs a recycling program that encourages customers to return their tights so they can be melted down and their elastane content can be put into long-life plastic products, such as car components. Other brands like Swedish Stockings use recycled polyamide, bio-cotton and cashmere for their hosiery, in addition to producing it in zero-waste production facilities. Luxury hosiery label Wolford launched a range of stockings made from nylon waste and recycled ocean fishnets. The brand now aims to expand its sustainable range. However, it is skeptical as to whether eco-friendly tights can also be classified as being luxurious.
Innerwear brand Heist also produces durable tights. The brand recently set a series of sustainable goals to hit by 2020, which include reducing energy consumption and greenhouse emissions. Additionally, the brand also plans to launch its first pair of tights made from recycled materials. For this, it will adopt sustainable technologies, such as Roica Eco Smart elastane, a Japanese engineered innovation and Fulgar Q-NOVA®, a sustainable Nylon 6.6 made in Italy and created from raw material from production waste.
Durable tights to deal with extra costs
However, as these brands charge more for their products, consumers have to shoulder the burden of extra costs for apparels that are not sustainable. To overcome this, Marks & Spencer introduced ladder resist tights in 2007 that are extra durable, come in high deniers and are among the brand's bestselling items. The hosiery industry needs to revamp. Though a few select labels have made a definite start towards it, but there is still a long way to go to see tangible change across the high street and hesitant luxury brands.
