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A White Paper developed by QSA Partners in partnership with industry bodies like the UKFT, British Fashion Council and British Retail Consortium, alongwith major brands like Burberry, Marks & Spencer and John Smedley urges the UK Government to introduce a variable Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) fee structure to promote sustainability and advance a circular economy in the fashion and textiles sector. 

To be unveiled at the UKFT Sustainability Conference, The White Paper calls for immediate government action to establish a variable EPR textile scheme that would ensure rather than shifting the burden onto communities and the environment, producers cover the costs of their products' end-of-life treatment, rather than shifting the burden onto communities and the environment. The proposed system aims to increase recycling, encourage reuse, and reduce the significant waste generated by the UK fashion sector, which sends around 336,000 tons of clothing to landfills annually.

The EPR Sandbox project, which supported the development of the White Paper, analysed over 500,000 garment types to inform fee structures and circular economy strategies. The project tested different models, including per-item and per-kilogram fees, encouraging producers to design products with sustainability in mind. Additionally, it proposed a central fund to support repair, reuse, and recycling efforts. These measures could generate substantial funding for circular initiatives and reduce costs for producers who adopt sustainable practices.

Industry leaders including Burberry and John Smedley have expressed their support to the initiative. Burberry emphasised its commitment to circular practices through aftercare services, while John Smedley highlighted the importance of traceability and raw material partnerships. Marks & Spencer pointed to its long-standing efforts in promoting clothing recycling and repair services.

With the UK fashion and textile sector contributing around £62 billion to the economy but also posing significant environmental challenges, the introduction of variable EPR fees could be a transformative step. By incentivising circular design and supporting UK recycling infrastructure, this initiative could drive meaningful progress toward sustainability, provided the government offers strong backing.

 

 

At the recently concluded Garment Technology Expo (GTE) 2024 in Bengaluru, Brother International (India) unveiled its latest range of flatbed and multi-needle machines, targeting emerging entrepreneurs in the garment industry. 

With a focus on small business owners, fashion students, and boutique operators, Brother India caters to the rising demand for customised monogramming and fashion designs by offering advanced machines that combine versatility with precision.

Highlighting the company’s new machines that meet the needs of small-scale manufacturers,  Rudra Pratap, National Sales Head, says, these products are ideal for small businesses looking to expand their creative capabilities in a competitive market. 

The products showcased by Brother India at GTE 2024 were designed to tap into current market trends, particularly the growing demand for custom apparel and monogramming. 

Addressing the growing competition from Chinese machines, Pratap points out, Brother India’s machines stand out due to their superior quality, cutting-edge technology, and reliable sales and service support. Besides providing advanced machines, the company also offers adequate after-sales services to help improve the machines’ productivity.

Brother India also conducts comprehensive training programs to ensure entrepreneurs operate the machines efficiently and upgrade their skills regularly. Present in India since 2006, Brother International operates 15 warehouses across the country with a robust distribution network.

 

 

Benefiting from an influx of orders driven by rising costs and political instability in competitor Bangladesh, along with international restrictions on China, Pakistan’s textile exports rose to by 13 per cent Y-o-Y to $1.64 billion in Aug’24.

Shagufta Irshad, Research Analyst, JS Global, the recent turmoil in Bangladesh alongwith the restrictions on China have led to clothing importers across the globe increasingly shifting orders to alternative markets like Pakistan, India, and Vietnam. As a result, Pakistan RMG exports grew by 28 per cent in Aug’24 while knitwear and bedwear exports increased by 15 per cent. 

This shift in demand has allowed Pakistani exporters to secure higher prices for textile products. During Aug’24, average knitwear prices rose by 14 per cent Y-o-Y, while RMG prices expanded by 58 per cent. Leading Pakistani textile firm, Interloop Ltd (ILP) is expected to benefit significantly from this with declining input costs and rising export prices boosting the company’s profit margins. 

Additionally, a rebound in cotton prices has further supported the value-added textile sector. Since July 2024, international cotton prices have increased by 20 per cent, and local cotton prices have risen by 8 per cent. However, Pakistan's domestic cotton production has fallen short of expectations. The industry projects an output of 6.5-7 million bales this year, significantly lower than the government's target of 10.8 million bales for FY25. This shortfall is attributed to a decrease in the area under cultivation and adverse weather conditions.

The reduced cotton crop has forced Pakistani textile manufacturers to increase cotton imports by 8 per cent during the first two months of FY25. Despite a 20 per cent recovery in international prices, cotton imports remain 13 per cent lower than the same period last year, partially offsetting the gains in export prices.

 

 

A manufacturer for brands like Wacoal, Freya, Fantasie, Elomi and Goddess, Walcoal Europe has acquired the UK-based lingerie and swimwear retailer Bravissimo.

Founded in 1995 by Sarah Tremellen and her husband,  Bravissimo has grown into a go-to destination for fuller-bust lingerie and swimwear. Under the new ownership, Bravissimo will continue to operate as a separate company, with Leanne Cahill continuing as the CEO, a role she has held since 2020 when Tremellen became the chairperson.

The acquisition follows a successful 2023 for Bravissimo, with the company’s underlying EBITDA more than doubling from the previous year. Reflecting on the milestone, Tremellen says, both Bravissimo and Walcoal Europe have played pivotal roles in expanding the range of bigger cup sizes in the UK over the last 30 years. 

Geoff Embley, CEO, Wacoal Europe, adds, this partnership strengthens Wacoal Europe’s shared vision and expands its mutual mission to deliver perfectly fitting lingerie and swimwear. 

Bravissimo will continue to operate from its Leamington Spa office and warehouse, with all UK stores remaining open. The acquisition comes at a celebratory time for the company, which recently won the Customer Service Team of the Year award at The Retail Bulletin’s People in Retail Awards.

 

 

VF Corp is appointing Chris Goble, Chief Product Officer and General Manager, Gap North America as the new Head of its workwear brand Dickies 

This appointment represents the ninth leadership change made by Bracken Darrell, CEO since he joined VF Corp. in July 2023. Under his leadership, the company has seen a series of high-profile shifts, including the replacement of the chief design officer and the head of the Vans brand. Todd Dalhausser, the previous general manager of Dickies, has transitioned to lead the North Face Americas. 

In a recent report, Adrienne Yih, Analyst, Barclays,  emphasised, these leadership changes have brought bring significant improvements throughout the organisation over the past year.

Known for its overalls and pants, Dickies is refocusing on its workwear roots after struggling to establish itself as a fashion brand in the US. During the latest earnings call, Darrell acknowledged, the brand had ‘moved too fast’ in this direction, resulting in a loss of footing in its core work business. This contributed to a 15 per cent decline in Dickies revenue in the three months ending in late June, while Vans experienced a 21 per cent revenue contraction in the same period.

 

 

For the first time, specialised sports trade show ISPO Munich will be held in collaboration with the Danish fashion show Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF). 

To run from Dec 03-05, in Munich, ISPO Munich will hold a partner stand for CIFF where Danish brands from the denim, sportswear, streetwear and sneaker sectors will showcase their newest collections.

ISPO Munich will also have dedicated hall for showcasing.athleisure, sports fashion and streetwear within the Zeitgeist by ISPO, a fashion-focused section that debuted for last ISPO edition and the ISPO 520M concept area hosting outdoor market novelties.

One of the most important platforms for the international fashion industry, CIFF has evolved from being a regional trade fair into a more international inspiring trade platform that showcases some of the industry’s most future-orientated brands. Since its foundation in 1993, the fair has been dedicated to promoting excellent design, fashion-forward innovation and high-quality fashion at a democratic price point.

The exhibiting CIFF brands from the denim, sportswear, streetwear and sneaker sectors will showcase further innovations and help amplify the importance of ISPO Munich as a global platform for the sports business. In return, CIFF will welcome a selected number of the ISPO Munich partnering brands to present the Danish f/w 2025 Copenhagen Fashion Week for the 64th edition of CIFF.

This year’s ISPO Munich brand portfolio will include participants such as Veja, Amundsen, Haglöfs, Bellroy, Mey, Quartz Co, Sandqvist, We Norwegians, Varsity Headwear, Snowpeak, And Wander, Stereo Skis, Two. One–at the Zeitgeist by ISPO area–and Hoka, Faction, Adidas Terrex, Asics, Columbia + Sorel, Stanley, Dolomite, Zalando and Smart–at Ispo 520M, in addition to the brands selected by CIFF.  

 

 

Stoll’s Patternshop is set to unveil its revamped online platform by the end of September 2024, boasting an upgraded, user-friendly interface. Known for its innovative pattern programming templates and flat knitting technology solutions, the updated Patternshop aims to streamline access to its extensive resources for customers and registered users.

The revamped platform aims to deliver seamless navigation, providing users with a wide array of pattern programs, yarn data, and insights into flat knitting technology, ultimately enhancing their experience. Michael Handel, Head of Sales & Service, emphasized that the new interface is designed to equip users with essential tools for success in knitting technology by making these resources more accessible and engaging.

In addition to the interface overhaul, Stoll is expanding its pattern program offerings. The updated Patternshop will feature around 150 pattern programs for Create Plus, the latest pattern programming system from Stoll and KM.ON, along with free-of-charge patterns from Fashion & Technology’s trend collections and other sample patterns.

Users may need to re-register to access the full range of features and resources available on the redesigned platform. Michael Handel emphasized that Stoll is committed to supporting users through this transition and encourages re-registration to take full advantage of the enhanced capabilities.

 

 

Having risen by 7 per cent from 116 million tons in 2022 to 124 million tons in 2023, the global fiber production is slated to grow to 160 million tons by 2030, according to the Materials Market Report by Textile Exchange.

The report indicates a continued reliance on new virgin fossil-based synthetic materials, as their market share grew in 2023, while the shares of cotton and recycled fibers saw a slight decline. It highlights the current limitations of textile-to-textile recycling, emphasising an urgent need for innovative solutions, given that most recycled polyester still originates from PET bottles.

On a positive note, the report reveals a growing demand for responsible animal fibers, supported by initiatives like the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) and Responsible Alpaca Standard (RAS). These programs aim to improve animal welfare and environmental management, showcasing the potential of such farm-level standards to enhance market recognition of sustainable practices.

 

 

Jeanologia has joined the Open Lab initiative, spearheaded by the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel (HKRITA) and the H&M Foundation, to drive textile innovation and address climate change challenges. The lab, located in Hong Kong’s Advanced Manufacturing Centre, spans 1,800 square meters and focuses on developing sustainable textile solutions. It will host over 80 projects, serving as a hub for brands, manufacturers, and suppliers to collaborate on scalable technologies that promote circularity and efficiency in the textile industry.

Jeanologia will support the advancement of the Green Machine project by contributing its technology, in line with HKRITA’s commitment to sustainability. CEO Enrique Silla highlighted the collaborative aspect of the initiative, noting that the Open Lab brings together brands, manufacturers, and suppliers to foster innovation and drive the industry towards a more circular and efficient textile future.

Key technologies introduced by Jeanologia include the H2 Zero water recovery system, which enables water reuse without chemicals and reduces energy consumption. The eco-efficient Smart Box washing line and e-Flow technology, which uses nanobubbles to apply chemicals with minimal water, also feature prominently. Additionally, G2 technology uses ozone to create worn finishes on garments without emissions.

Funded by Hong Kong’s Innovation and Technology Commission and housed at Hong Kong Polytechnic University, the Open Lab aims to become a global leader in sustainable textile R&D. Its Pilot Plant, an industrial-scale recycling line, will showcase the Green Machine 2.0, capable of recycling up to one ton of polyester-cotton blended textiles daily. The lab is set to be fully operational by the end of 2024.

 

TMAS presents Swedish innovations for sustainable textiles at ITMA ASIA CITME 2024

 

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, taking place in Shanghai from October 14-18, members of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, will unveil advanced technologies aimed at aiding regional manufacturers in producing sustainable fabrics. These innovations come in response to increasing market demands for sustainable textile solutions and reflect TMAS's commitment to supporting the industry's environmental goals.

China, the world's largest textile producer, accounts for over 50 per cent of global fibre consumption, and its synthetic fibre sector produces more than 70 per cent of the world's output. With growing emphasis on sustainability, leading brands now require higher percentages of recycled fibres in their yarns. This shift towards sustainable materials has opened new opportunities for Chinese mills, traditionally focused on achieving cost-effective production rather than sustainability.

New market potential for recycled yarns

Chinese cotton spinning companies have long processed yarn mill waste using rotor spinning technology, which is best suited for recycled yarns with high short-fibre content, according to TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. Previously, this practice was primarily driven by cost considerations. Now, however, these mills can command a premium for yarns containing higher recycled content, aligning with the industry's shift towards sustainability goals.

Since 2015, China has installed nearly four million new rotor spinning spindles, highlighting the substantial potential for growth in this sector. This rapid development necessitates upgrades in technology not just in spinning but throughout the production chain, a challenge TMAS members are prepared to meet.

Eltex’s ACT-R: Enhancing weaving with recycled yarns

Eltex, a TMAS member, addresses the challenges of weaving with recycled yarns through its ACT-R technology. This stand-alone device maintains consistent weft yarn tension on rapier weaving machines, essential for handling the irregularities common in recycled yarns.

Recycled yarns typically contain shorter fibres, which can result in inconsistencies and breakages. Eltex Senior Sales Engineer Daniel Sauret explains that the ACT-R system automatically adjusts for variations in weft yarn tension, ensuring smooth weaving regardless of the condition of the yarn package.

The ACT-R system is a plug-and-play solution compatible with any rapier machine and requires no communication with the weaving machine. Eltex CEO Brian Hicks notes that weavers using recycled yarns have reported outstanding results, highlighting significant improvements in production quality and continuity.

Eltex is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year, marking six decades of pioneering electronic sensor technology for the weaving industry. Its innovations have been crucial in enabling the high-speed, fault-free production seen today.

Vandewiele’s advanced weaving control systems

Vandewiele Sweden AB, part of the Vandewiele Group, also focuses on advanced weaving control. The company will showcase its latest X4 yarn feeders, featuring integrated tension control and machine learning AI capabilities, at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024. The X4 feeders, available in three versions, enable precise tension control and adjustment, optimizing the weaving process for better fabric quality and reduced waste.

The X4 feeders, equipped with integrated tension display and active tension control, set a new standard for efficiency in weaving, according to a Vandewiele spokesperson. These systems offer significant advantages, particularly in handling recycled yarns, by maintaining consistent tension throughout the weaving cycle.

Baldwin’s TexCoat G4 for efficient finishing

Baldwin, another TMAS member, is transforming the textile finishing process with its TexCoat G4 unit. This technology significantly reduces water, chemical, and energy consumption by applying treatments such as softeners and durable water repellents only where needed.

Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s Vice-President of Business Development for Textiles, states that the system can reduce water, chemical, and energy consumption by up to 50 percent compared to traditional methods. Baldwin's partnership with Monforts and Archroma focuses on improving efficiency and sustainability in dyeing and finishing processes.

A TexCoat G4 unit is currently being installed at Monforts’ Advanced Technology Centre in Germany for extensive industrial-scale trials. Rick Stanford notes that this partnership is set to bring transformative change to the dyeing and finishing sector, enhancing productivity and quality while reducing resource consumption.

Showcasing Swedish innovations for a sustainable future

Therese Premler-Andersson expresses enthusiasm about reconnecting with customers in Shanghai and presenting Swedish innovations that benefit both clients and the environment.

By focusing on cutting-edge technologies for sustainable textile production, TMAS members are set to play a pivotal role in the industry's ongoing transformation towards more eco-friendly practices.

 

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