A White Paper developed by QSA Partners in partnership with industry bodies like the UKFT, British Fashion Council and British Retail Consortium, alongwith major brands like Burberry, Marks & Spencer and John Smedley urges the UK Government to introduce a variable Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) fee structure to promote sustainability and advance a circular economy in the fashion and textiles sector. 

To be unveiled at the UKFT Sustainability Conference, The White Paper calls for immediate government action to establish a variable EPR textile scheme that would ensure rather than shifting the burden onto communities and the environment, producers cover the costs of their products' end-of-life treatment, rather than shifting the burden onto communities and the environment. The proposed system aims to increase recycling, encourage reuse, and reduce the significant waste generated by the UK fashion sector, which sends around 336,000 tons of clothing to landfills annually.

The EPR Sandbox project, which supported the development of the White Paper, analysed over 500,000 garment types to inform fee structures and circular economy strategies. The project tested different models, including per-item and per-kilogram fees, encouraging producers to design products with sustainability in mind. Additionally, it proposed a central fund to support repair, reuse, and recycling efforts. These measures could generate substantial funding for circular initiatives and reduce costs for producers who adopt sustainable practices.

Industry leaders including Burberry and John Smedley have expressed their support to the initiative. Burberry emphasised its commitment to circular practices through aftercare services, while John Smedley highlighted the importance of traceability and raw material partnerships. Marks & Spencer pointed to its long-standing efforts in promoting clothing recycling and repair services.

With the UK fashion and textile sector contributing around £62 billion to the economy but also posing significant environmental challenges, the introduction of variable EPR fees could be a transformative step. By incentivising circular design and supporting UK recycling infrastructure, this initiative could drive meaningful progress toward sustainability, provided the government offers strong backing.