FW
The made-ups and home textile segment is likely to be covered under the Rs 6,000-crores special package that was approved by the Union government for the garment sector, says Union textile minister, Smriti Irani. After presenting the Texprocil awards, the minister said that her Ministry was actively considering extending the benefits of special package to the made-ups and home textile segment which had been excluded from its ambit. The idea is to extend the special package recently approved for the garment sector to made-ups and home textile. An announcement is likely to be made around Diwali.
The made-ups and home textile segment is more labour intensive than the apparel sector and has the capability of generating sizeable new employment. At the same time it will act as a pull factor for increased consumption of fibre, yarns and fabric produced domestically, she went on to say. The minister appreciated the industry's efforts to remain the leading exporter and assured all help to it. Hinting at the prime minister’s vision of doubling the income of farmers by 2022, she averred that it was a matter of joy that the farm yield has already increased and the country hopes to become a leading producer of cotton.
Earlier, R K Dalmia, Chairman, The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (Texprocil), said that the special package of Rs 6,000 crores for the apparel sector was a step in the right direction given the current scenario of world trade and international competitiveness. The reimbursements of State and Central levies along with labour reforms would strengthen the textile sector by improving its cost competitiveness in the global market, he said.
Considering that textile is a low margin industry, introduction of such packages can lead to an exponential leap in export performance. This can be seen from the fact that in September 2016 export of garments showed a 12 per cent growth amid a downward trend in most other sectors, Dalmia claimed.
Around 150 participants from 24 countries attended the ‘European Textiles – going digital, going high-tech’ conference in Brussels on October 12 and 13. The main highlight of the event, organised by the European Technology Platform for the Future of Textiles and Clothing (Textile ETP), was the unveiling of the Strategic Innovation and Research Agenda (SIRA) that has been jointly developed by over 100 textile industry, technology and research experts from across Europe.
Advanced fiber-based materials, digitisation of manufacturing and supply chains, new sustainable and customer-centric business models and access to growth markets will shape the future of the textile and fashion industries in Europe, it was stated. Moreover, SIRA has outlined the major innovation themes and research priorities which are expected to drive and shape the future of the textile and clothing sector in Europe in the coming decade.
The document entitled ‘Towards a 4th Industrial Revolution of Textiles and Clothing’ expresses the conviction that the interplay of technology trends such as digitization and automation, market trends such as growing technical textile applications and more demand for sustainable fashion products and new business models such as circular and sharing economy concepts and personalized product-services. This will provide a new basis for a more knowledge-intensive, growing and more profitable textile and clothing industry in Europe.
The strong presence of the textile machinery sector at the conference through companies such as Brückner, Lindauer Dornier and Picanol, underlined the importance of a close collaboration between world-leading Europe-based technology developers and their local lead industry customers to exploit advantages arising from greater resource efficiency, digitisation and new material processing. The conference also featured a number of new companies exploiting research know-how and advanced technologies for revolutionary textile based products for the health (Bioserenity), construction (Lucem, Raina Industries), energy (MACO Technology) protection (Clara Swiss Safety Tech) or outdoor (inuheat) markets.
"Global leader in development of sustainable solutions for finishing jeans, Jeanologia launched the generation of laser PRO, at ITMA Asia, which increases up to 30 per cent speed of laser and industrial productivity. The company bets on transformative Chinese automation technology, its efficiency energy and the environment to continue being a leader in the production of jeans. Its new generation laser allows precise control of production and costs in time real."
Global leader in development of sustainable solutions for finishing jeans, Jeanologia launched the generation of laser PRO, at ITMA Asia, which increases up to 30 per cent speed of laser and industrial productivity. The company bets on transformative Chinese automation technology, its efficiency energy and the environment to continue being a leader in the production of jeans. Its new generation laser allows precise control of production and costs in time real.
Visitors witnessed the new ‘Dummy Pro’, which enables work on all the fits of the market from very small sizes up to very large sizes, reducing handling and transition times. Currently, 5 per cent of the jeans that are produced in China carry Jeanologia technology in their DNA. Live demonstrations of Flexi Pro, the machinery that incorporates laser, which increases its speed to 30 per cent and obtained an increase of industrial productivity, also took place.
Towards tech transformation
Looking at the promising potential, Jeanologia aims to transform technology landscape in China to sustain its lead position in production of jeans. Efficiency, innovation, speed and ecology are the four pillars on which this technological leap must be based if it wants to avoid relocation to countries where labour is cheaper. Jeanologia PRO technology increases productive capacity of the jean industry and optimizes costs. This new generation laser is most rapid, reliable and accurate. It multiplies the possibilities of design and creativity and allows precise control of real-time production of machines and reduction of water consumption, energy and chemicals.
“In China, production costs have become more expensive as more competitors in Southeast Asia are coming up. The technology of Jeanologia is opportunity for an industry model change. If before it was in the hands of cheap labor, now technology must be bet on to increase productivity and lower costs,” explains Borja Trenor, Director for Asia Pacific Division.
“Chinese companies that want to survive the current economic situation have to introduce technology that enables them to automate production and reduce consumption of energy, water and chemicals at the same time that is respectful to the environment. Those that do not, will not survive,” Trenor opines.
Jeanologia is present in China for more than 10 years and is a technology partner of important brands in the country that have already begun the transformation and that have already adopted the three Spanish company’s sustainable technologies: laser, the ozone and the nanobubbles E-Flow.
UK-based MagicTouch, is known for its full colour image transfer paper and heat presses. Together with laser colour copiers and printers, the machines open up new and exciting opportunities for full colour, high quality image transfer printing onto a limitless range of application products. The company has now introduced a new and unique transfer paper that is considered a game changer for the image transfer garment decoration business. The new T.One™ transfer is a one-step coated paper for use with theTMT/OKi white-toner printers.
The paper is the ultimate solution for cost effective garment transfer that involves no cutting, weeding and more importantly leaves no residue on the finished garment or textile. In the last four months, the product has been marketed to existing White-Toner users in over 25 countries and has been an outstanding success. T.One™ transfer paper enables the user to print full colour (including white) designs to any pastel, white or non-dark garment/textile regardless of colour or composition. This includes cotton, polyester, denim, soft-shell, polypongee and most performance fabrics.
Stäubli’s booths at ITMA + CITME 2016 are not just about technology updates, it’s about the whole experience. Live demonstrations of challenging weaves and weaving preparation processes will vividly illustrate the extraordinary flexibility provided in terms of applications, automation, and services for weaving mills.
Stäubli drives worldwide Jacquard boost with adaptable machinery
In the Jacquard area at the booth, a refined DX Jacquard machine including harness will be shown at a special demonstration stand. This proven Jacquard machine has been redesigned for even longer service life and is being publicly unveiled at this show. Suitable for any standard Jacquard application, the DX can be used with the full range of Stäubli harness types. Stäubli harnesses are widely appreciated by weavers for their levelling features and their perfectly balanced high-quality components, delivering high performance and durability.
Stäubli will be showing the completely re-engineered electronic LX and LXL Jacquard machines for the first time in Asia. Producing a wide array of fabrics, these machines will demonstrate their exceptional precision and reliability in complete Jacquard installations. The extremely versatile LX Jacquard machines and LXL Jacquard machines are ideal for broad use in modern Jacquard weaving. These new series feature a new lifting mechanism that allows high-speed weaving of even extremely heavy fabrics. With the new coaxial drive shaft and re-sized chassis supporting beams and bearings, the new models can handle up to 26% greater loads than previous models. In addition, the positioning of the fans in the housing of the LX optimises internal airflow, thereby ensuring that the machine interior remains clean and at a controlled temperature. The LX models are available in sizes up to 6,144 hooks, whilst the LXL can achieve up to 36,864 hooks when two machines are combined.
Presenting the third generation of dobbies
Being presented to the public for the first time are the newly developed S3062/S3061 dobbies for water-jet applications. The evolutionary design of these machines now incorporates the exclusive Stäubli locking system for enhanced security and for selection of the heald frames. These technologies are being unveiled with the third generation of electronic rotary dobbies, previously available only for rapier and air-jet machines. The new S3062/S3061 dobbies are being launched in combination with the new generation of high-mounted transmissions, the de82 and de83, featuring perfectly balanced kinematics, reinforced structure, and an integrated controller. Weavers who invest in the high-performance combination of S3062/S3061 dobby and de82/83 transmission will profit from higher output as a result of higher running speeds and superior reliability. In addition, they can run their mill with less maintenance and lower energy consumption.
SAFIR S40 enhances efficiency
Efficient drawing-in of cotton warps is the speciality of the SAFIR S40 automatic drawing-in system. In a single cycle, it draws in directly from one warp beam into drop wires, healds, and reed. Featuring a mobile drawing-in machine, it supports continuous workflows and ensures reliability in terms of quality and quantity resulting in economical production of fabrics like denim, bed and table linens, or blouse and shirt fabrics, produced with a maximum of 12 heald frames. Visitors to the booth will be able to see their future workhorse demonstrating its efficiency while drawing in denim yarn (100% Co), Ne 12, open end.
TOPMATIC warp-tying machine
The well-proven TOPMATIC is also being demonstrated at the Stäubli booth. The model TOPMATIC 201 PC with integrated double-end detection – even for warps with no lease – will show its strengths tying a cotton warp without a 1:1 lease.
MAGMA T12 – automatic warp-tying for technical fibres
Ideal for mills supplying the growing market of technical textiles, the MAGMA T12 warp-tying machine ties medium-to-coarse yarn types, e.g. coarse multifilament, PP ribbons, bast fibres, coarse staple fibres, and many other fibre types. The machine is equipped with an optical system for double-end detection and has a patented yarn separation system, eliminating the need for specific separation needles. A touch-screen panel displays information about the tying process and is used by the operator to conveniently enter parameters and settings. The MAGMA T12 will be demonstrated at the Stäubli booth tying 0.4 mm nylon monofilament yarn.
DEIMO knitting solutions
Stäubli will be showing for the first time in Asia the D4S automatic toe-closing device for circular sock knitting machines. Visitors to the booth will see for themselves how the D4S drastically shortens the sock production process. The latest model in the DEIMO range of controllers, the type 2900 S, serves as an electronic controller for circular knitting machines. DEIMO is presenting its product range at a separate booth in the knitting area: D15 in Hall 4.
Experience Technology the Stäubli way at ITMA Asia 2016
<p>
Stäubli’s booths at ITMA + CITME 2016 are not just about technology updates, it’s about the whole experience. Live demonstrations of challenging weaves and weaving preparation processes will vividly illustrate the extraordinary flexibility provided in terms of applications, automation, and services for weaving mills. </p>
<p>
<h2> Stäubli drives worldwide Jacquard boost with adaptable machinery </h2>
<p>
In the Jacquard area at the booth, a refined DX Jacquard machine including harness will be shown at a special demonstration stand. This proven Jacquard machine has been redesigned for even longer service life and is being publicly unveiled at this show. Suitable for any standard Jacquard application, the DX can be used with the full range of Stäubli harness types. Stäubli harnesses are widely appreciated by weavers for their levelling features and their perfectly balanced high-quality components, delivering high performance and durability. </p>
<p>
Stäubli will be showing the completely re-engineered electronic LX and LXL Jacquard machines for the first time in Asia. Producing a wide array of fabrics, these machines will demonstrate their exceptional precision and reliability in complete Jacquard installations. The extremely versatile LX Jacquard machines and LXL Jacquard machines are ideal for broad use in modern Jacquard weaving. These new series feature a new lifting mechanism that allows high-speed weaving of even extremely heavy fabrics. With the new coaxial drive shaft and re-sized chassis supporting beams and bearings, the new models can handle up to 26% greater loads than previous models. In addition, the positioning of the fans in the housing of the LX optimises internal airflow, thereby ensuring that the machine interior remains clean and at a controlled temperature. The LX models are available in sizes up to 6,144 hooks, whilst the LXL can achieve up to 36,864 hooks when two machines are combined. </p>
<p>
<h2> Presenting the third generation of dobbies </h2>
<p>
Being presented to the public for the first time are the newly developed S3062/S3061 dobbies for water-jet applications. The evolutionary design of these machines now incorporates the exclusive Stäubli locking system for enhanced security and for selection of the heald frames. These technologies are being unveiled with the third generation of electronic rotary dobbies, previously available only for rapier and air-jet machines. The new S3062/S3061 dobbies are being launched in combination with the new generation of high-mounted transmissions, the de82 and de83, featuring perfectly balanced kinematics, reinforced structure, and an integrated controller. Weavers who invest in the high-performance combination of S3062/S3061 dobby and de82/83 transmission will profit from higher output as a result of higher running speeds and superior reliability. In addition, they can run their mill with less maintenance and lower energy consumption. </p>
<p>
<h2> SAFIR S40 enhances efficiency </h2>
<p>
Efficient drawing-in of cotton warps is the speciality of the SAFIR S40 automatic drawing-in system. In a single cycle, it draws in directly from one warp beam into drop wires, healds, and reed. Featuring a mobile drawing-in machine, it supports continuous workflows and ensures reliability in terms of quality and quantity resulting in economical production of fabrics like denim, bed and table linens, or blouse and shirt fabrics, produced with a maximum of 12 heald frames. Visitors to the booth will be able to see their future workhorse demonstrating its efficiency while drawing in denim yarn (100% Co), Ne 12, open end. </p>
<p>
<h2> TOPMATIC warp-tying machine </h2>
<p>
The well-proven TOPMATIC is also being demonstrated at the Stäubli booth. The model TOPMATIC 201 PC with integrated double-end detection – even for warps with no lease – will show its strengths tying a cotton warp without a 1:1 lease. </p>
<p>
<h2> MAGMA T12 – automatic warp-tying for technical fibres </h2>
<p>
Ideal for mills supplying the growing market of technical textiles, the MAGMA T12 warp-tying machine ties medium-to-coarse yarn types, e.g. coarse multifilament, PP ribbons, bast fibres, coarse staple fibres, and many other fibre types. The machine is equipped with an optical system for double-end detection and has a patented yarn separation system, eliminating the need for specific separation needles. A touch-screen panel displays information about the tying process and is used by the operator to conveniently enter parameters and settings. The MAGMA T12 will be demonstrated at the Stäubli booth tying 0.4 mm nylon monofilament yarn. </p>
<p>
<h2> DEIMO knitting solutions </h2>
<p>
Stäubli will be showing for the first time in Asia the D4S automatic toe-closing device for circular sock knitting machines. Visitors to the booth will see for themselves how the D4S drastically shortens the sock production process. The latest model in the DEIMO range of controllers, the type 2900 S, serves as an electronic controller for circular knitting machines. DEIMO is presenting its product range at a separate booth in the knitting area: D15 in Hall 4. </p>
Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment showcased its Industrie 4.0 solutions true to the claim ‘The Future is Now’ at ITMA + CITME 2016. The Oerlikon Manmade Fiber segment comprises two brands – Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag. With its many years of expertise in complex production systems engineering, Oerlikon Barmag – which focusses on CP, POY, FDY, DTY, industrial yarn (IDY) as well as tape and monofilament products and services – alone will be presenting 12 new manmade fiber spinning solutions at the trade fair.
Oerlikon Barmag WINGS POY HD is designed for the requirements of high yarn titers of up to 500den polyester POY. Oerlikon Barmag WINGS FDY family offers the perfect, commercially-attractive solution – the high-end model WINGS FDY PLUS is shown at an ITMA Asia + CITME for the first time. Oerlikon Neumag is premiering its new multifunctional forming table for its meltblown systems with a considerably reduced footprint and a shortened wire length that reduce maintenance costs.
Betting big on China
The primary focus is on the innovative Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Industrie 4.0 system control and customer services solutions. With new features and offerings for the intelligent ‘POC – Plant Operation Center 4.0’ system control software, producers can now maintain a constant overview of all processes – from the polycondensation, spinning and texturing all the way through to downstream further processing procedures. This helps clients increase the productivity of their systems, save energy and deploy resources efficiently. Oerlikon already shows manufacturers how they can optimise the production processes of the future – ‘The Future is Now’.
Industrie 4.0 solutions blazing a trail
Using virtual reality presentation, augmented reality solutions with the recently-launched Microsoft HoloLens IT development for ‘predictive maintenance’ concepts and virtual 360-degree tours through spinning plants, visitors to the trade fair will be offered everything that state-of-the-art technology makes possible today. Linked to future-oriented service and automation solutions, Oerlikon wants to prepare its customers for the future of manmade fiber production. The fact that this will ultimately result in improved yarn quality goes without saying for the market leader, along with offering environmentally-compatible and sustainable production processes. Here, the segment will be presenting its e-save initiative for the 12th year in succession and showcasing new recycling solutions – ‘From shredded PET to value add’.
A new addition to the WINGS POY and FDY family
The WINGS POY family now has a further new member, now also including the WINGS POY HD available for processing high titers. With its expanded godet system, the new winder has been designed especially for the requirements of high yarn titers of up to 500den polyester POY. In conjunction with the EvoQuench radial quenching system, microfilament yarns with high titer ranges can now also be manufactured with outstanding properties
Combined with the eAFK texturing machine – also designed for high titers – Oerlikon Barmag therefore offers a total ‘From Melt to Draw Textured Yarn’ concept that produces polyester DTY with up to 450den in accustomed Oerlikon Barmag DTY quality
eAFK HQ – texturing in a new dimension
With the eAFK HQ, Oerlikon Barmag will be presenting the world’s most productive automatic texturing machine at the ITMA Asia + CITME. Furthermore, the new eAFK HQ simultaneously excels as a result of its extremely space-saving construction. With this, customers are able to texture their products in the tried-and-tested quality, assured by Oerlikon Barmag, on a machine with the smallest space requirements in the DTY market. At the same time, they benefit from the 50% increase in productivity offered by the eAFK HQ compared to other texturing machines supplied by competitors.
The eAFK HQ is designed with 12 sections, each with 48 positions. Compared to the eAFK machine – with more than 1,000 successful installations worldwide – a fourth level in the winding unit of the eAFK HQ increases the capacity of the machine to 576 positions – a world record! And all this with simultaneously considerably reduced energy consumption. The newly-developed compact block heater lowers energy costs by reducing the radiated heat loss. With the highest level of precision, the new ATT traverse system ensures excellent package build.
Industrial textiles becoming increasingly popular
For the industrial textiles growth market, Oerlikon Barmag will be unveiling its latest developments for the production of yarns used in airbags, safety belts and tire cord. Here, the focus will, above all, be on polyamide 6 and polyamide 6.6 solutions. However, the very latest process and machine solutions will also be unveiled for polyester applications – for low shrinkage and high tenacity yarns, among others.
The fully-automated, double-sided air-jet spinning machine with 200 spinning units, up to 6 robots and a delivery speed of 500 m/min ensures economical and flexible production. The recently showcased J 26 automated air-jet spinning machine at ITMA + CITME 2016 has striking advantages among other air-jet spinning machines. The P 26 polyester attachment ensures 100 % polyester spinning with long running intervals without manual cleaning. High performance is supported by the piecing preparation system with reduced piecing time. The winding unit ensures optimal package build-up and therefore higher package weight. Technological innovations and adapted settings enable to produce soft Com4®jet yarns.
Spinning 100 % polyester
With the new P 26 attachment 100 per cent polyester can be spun on J 26. The P 26 system applies liquid to the fibres in front of the twisting zone. This liquid creates benefit for reducing polyester deposits on the technology components, prolonging production times with stable yarn quality, higher yarn strength, lower yarn hairiness, etc. The P 26 system is connected to tap water which is filtered so that no sediments can enter the system. The integrated Rieter clearer Q 10A checks the yarn quality. Special clearing channels monitor the P 26 system at each spin unit.
Rieter Q 10A yarn clearer
With 15 years of experience and 1 million of sensors in operation, Rieter is launching a yarn clearer specially designed for air jet spinning. Special clearing channel detecting very fast yarn surfaces changes caused by spin nozzle blockages. The detection is within 10 m and the fault can be removed easily. Unlike any other yarn clearing sensor, Q 10A provides a direct digital output out of the measurement. This guarantees maximum exactness in detecting yarn fault size, e.g. small but long yarn count deviations. Q 10A supports and monitors with a special channel the proper function of the new polyester attachment. The Q 10A detects smallest yarn deviations caused by malfunction of the attachment. A specially designed spectrogram helps to set individual limits for warnings and alarms and provides reliable detection and data to analyse the cause of periodic faults.
Produce yarn economically
High productivity in combination with other cost-saving concepts provides the lowest yarn manufacturing costs and highest margins for applications. With the same available floor space, output of the J 26 machine is up to 108 per cent higher and production margins up to 128 per cent higher compared to other air-jet spinn
The Indian spinning industry is faced with weak demand from overseas markets and poor yarn demand from the domestic garment sector. Growth in domestic yarn consumption stood at the lowest in four years during financial year ’16 (0.8 per cent for cotton spun yarn and 2.5 per cent for total spun yarn), and spun yarn production remained flat in the April to June quarter of financial year ’17 on a year-on-year basis.
So spinners will need to sacrifice profitability to maintain capacity utilization. Apart from profitability pressures, high cotton prices will translate into higher working capital requirements and hence borrowings and will translate into weaker credit metrics.
While industry profitability is expected to come under pressure, some of the stronger players, who had stocked cotton prior to the increase in cotton prices, may witness improved profitability driven by inventory gains during the second quarter of financial year 2017. The area under cotton cultivation is expected to decline for the second consecutive year by 12 per cent in 2017, following a seven per cent decline in 2016. Even a recovery in yields is unlikely to lift production. This is despite the good monsoons and high cotton prices.
The Pakistani textile sector has urged the government to take pragmatic steps towards exploring non-traditional markets to increase exports. According to the Pakistan Textile Exporters Association (PTEA), the commerce ministry has said in a paper that this was indeed the time to focus on non-traditional markets as huge opportunities are available. These non-traditional markets include South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, Korea, Japan, Taiwan, Mexico, Chile, Peru, Argentina, Cuba and Canada, stated the paper.
The recommendation comes as Pakistan’s exports take a sharp dive with the current account data for September showing the deficit increasing 13 per cent. Meanwhile, textile comprises of over half of the country’s total exports.The Association also urged the government to activate Pakistan’s trade missions abroad and rationalise activities and policies of the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP) towards this direction so that the objectives could be achieved.
The Association has also recommended that frequent exchange of trade delegations to emerging markets would help enhance trade opportunities and explore new space for dwindling exports. It also notes that billions of rupees from the Export Development Fund (EDF) were being wasted on unproductive tours of government officials.
Committed to change, Invista, one of the world’s largest integrated producers of fibres and polymers and owner of the LYCRA® brand, has unveiled its 2017-2018 global intimate apparel , swimwear and athleisure trends and fashion directions that reinforce brand innovations and value benefits.
Invista and its Amsterdam-based forecasting agency Stijlinstituut have predicted the must-have trends for 2017/18 which were brought to life through an inspirational LYCRA® capsule collection featuring cutting-edge trends and technologies. With long-standing expertise revolutionising women’s wardrobes, the brand remains at the forefront of intimate apparel and swimwear innovations by presenting forward-thinking creative directions. The four trends highlight the rise in health, fitness and mindfulness as a lifestyle with the engaging motto ‘I am Every Woman.’
Detailing the innovations, Claire O’Neill, Intimate Apparel & Swimwear Marketing Segment Manager at Invista said her company presents a great variety of trends for Intimate Apparel and Swimwear because wearers come in vast numbers each one with their own lifestyle and multifaceted personality, adapting to constantly changing environments. It is the versatility of Invista fibres that enables and facilitates these dynamics by offering flexible and performing wardrobes to suit every woman and her various wants. The addition of the Athleisure platform reflects an exciting opportunity for intimates and body wear brands to expand their business.
Invista fashion directions has become a recognised source of inspiration underpinned by sound technical innovation. It creates value for brands and retailers and supporting partner mills of Invista with valuable trend insights, innovation and new business opportunities.
