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Primark at crossroads as AB Foods weighs spin off amid digital and Lefties pressure

 

The long-standing supremacy of Europe’s budget fashion champion, Primark, is facing a test. As of February 2026, Associated British Foods (AB Foods) confronts a high-stakes decision: whether to spin off its retail crown jewel, a move that could redefine shareholder value. After decades of sheltering Primark under a diversified conglomerate umbrella, spanning sugar, grocery, and food ingredients the board is confronting the reality that the fast-fashion business now demands a strategy distinct from its commodity siblings. This strategic reckoning comes as Primark contends with two disruptive forces: Inditex’s brick-and-mortar budget expansion through Lefties and the relentless digital pressure from Shein and Temu.

Europe’s budget battle intensifies with Lefties

Primark’s competitive scenario is no longer straightforward. Where it once comfortably outpaced rivals like H&M through scale and store density, it now faces a bipolar market. On one end, Inditex is preparing the UK launch of Lefties in 2026. Originally an outlet for surplus Zara inventory, Lefties has been reimagined as a standalone brand targeting Gen-Z shoppers, with curated styles and the technological sophistication that comes from Inditex’s logistics engine. With flagship stores over 20,000 sq. ft in Westfield London and Lakeside in Essex, Lefties is a new kind of high-volume, digitally-enabled value retail, a format that challenges Primark’s physical-first, low-tech operational model.

Simultaneously, Primark contends with online disruptors. Shein and Temu continue to capture the attention of young, digitally native consumers. According to Mintel’s 2025 UK Fashion Report online now accounts for 48 per cent of all clothing spend, with nearly half of women aged 16-34 purchasing from Shein within the last year. The endless aisle of digital offerings renders Primark’s strictly in-store proposition increasingly constrained.

Cooling growth and margins under pressure

Primark’s financial metrics illustrate the pressure building beneath the surface. For the 16 weeks ending January 3, 2026, AB Foods reported 1 per cent growth in total retail sales on a constant currency basis. The UK market showed resilience, with a 3 per cent sales rise, yet the broader European footprint (excluding the UK and Ireland) registered a 1 per cent decline. Weak consumer sentiment, coupled with aggressive discounting during the 2025 holiday period, forced the retailer to increase markdowns, effectively capping projected full-year adjusted operating margins at roughly 10 per cent.

Rising costs compound the challenge. Bernstein analysts note that Primark’s minimum prices rose 33 per cent between 2023 and 2025 due to higher logistics and business taxes. While AB Foods asserts that essential items like children’s T-shirts priced at £1.30 remain unchanged, incremental price creep is nudging cost-sensitive shoppers toward online alternatives. The table highlights Primark’s estimated regional performance for Q1 2026:

Table: Primark Q1 2026 regional performance (estimated)

Market

Like-for-like (LFL) sales growth

Total sales growth

UK Only

+1.7%

+3.0%

Europe (Excl. UK/Ireland)

-5.70%

-1.00%

United States

+12.0% (driven by expansion)

+20.0%

Overall Primark Group

-2.70%

+1.0%

The data highlights UK remains steady, with established store networks, while continental Europe struggles amid competitive discounting and weaker footfall. The US market, in contrast, shows good gains with recent store expansions but these are tempered by new trade tariffs and the challenges of integrating a large-scale, store-led model with evolving digital expectations.

Weighing the spin-off

The debate over separating Primark from AB Foods reflects a broader sector insight: fast fashion operates on a different operational DNA than food production. Institutional investors, including J O Hambro Capital Management, have already exited, citing the complexity of a conglomerate balancing commodity businesses with high-volume apparel.

“Primark has historically been the last bastion of physical retail,” says Robyn Duffy, senior analyst at RSM UK. “But with the business still overwhelmingly store-led, execution risk remains high in Europe and the US, where click-and-collect and digital engagement are only partially embedded.”

Even as Primark pursues international growth, hurdles remain. The US market, while promising, faces headwinds following President Trump’s 2025 executive orders ending the de minimis tariff exemption, which had allowed small shipments from China to enter duty-free. Now, duties of up to 30 per cent apply, raising costs for Primark, which ships bulk inventory to US stores. The retailer is preparing to launch its Manhattan flagship in Herald Square this spring, a move that will test both its operational agility and pricing discipline.

From Dublin roots to global ambitions

Founded in Dublin in 1969 as Penneys, Primark has grown into a global value retailer with nearly 500 stores across 18 countries. Its historically brick-and-mortar model is slowly adapting: click-and-collect, mobile apps, and other digital capabilities have been piloted in Italy and Ireland. Leadership transitions, notably the departure of CEO Paul Marchant in 2025, have added pressure for strategic clarity.

Yet international expansion remains a core part of Primark’s playbook. 2026 openings in Kuwait and Dubai reflect a deliberate strategy to diversify revenue beyond Europe. With the retail division now accounting for over 50 per cent of AB Foods’ total profit, any spin-off would represent one of the most consequential demergers in the sector in over a decade.

As Primark stands at this crossroads, the outcome will likely define the future of European budget fashion. Balancing the old guard’s physical expertise with the imperatives of digital engagement and global expansion, the retailer must navigate a rapidly shifting competitive map where Lefties, Shein, and evolving consumer behaviors leave no room for complacency.

  

Intertex Milano 2026 A global nexus for textile innovation

 

Intertex Milano is set to return this summer, confirming its status as a premier international destination for the textile and fashion industries. Scheduled for July 7–9, 2026, at the Milan Marriott Hotel Convention & Exhibition Center, the exhibition serves as a critical strategic platform where global manufacturers, suppliers, and industry professionals converge to drive the future of textile sourcing and design.

A comprehensive textile marketplace

The 2026 edition offers an expansive overview of the global textile supply chain. Over three days, attendees can explore an extensive array of products ranging from foundational materials to specialized technical solutions. The curated showcase includes fabrics for womenswear, menswear, childrenswear, casualwear, and formal attire, such as cocktail and bridal dresses. Furthermore, the event features a vast selection of fibers and fabrics, including silk, cotton, linen, hemp, denim, wool, cashmere, and high-performance materials for sports and technical applications.

Complementing the fabric selection is a broad range of essential garment components. Visitors will find high-quality trimmings, buttons, zippers, labels, lace, embroidery, linings, and specialized yarns for both knitting and weaving. This comprehensive offering ensures that designers, sourcing managers, and apparel brands can discover the materials necessary to elevate their upcoming collections.

Strategic networking and business growth

Beyond its role as a product showcase, Intertex Milano acts as a vital international hub for business development. The event facilitates direct connections between industry decision-makers and high-level partners, creating unique opportunities for collaboration and market expansion. Exhibiting at the fair allows companies to present their latest innovations to a qualified international audience, strengthen brand visibility, and solidify their presence within the European market.

The event also emphasizes future-focused trends through its dedicated trend area. This year, the space is curated by expert Maria Cristina Fedriani, who brings years of experience in forecasting and developing successful creative directions for leading global fashion brands. This curated zone offers attendees exclusive insights and inspiration, making it a must-attend destination for those tracking the evolving landscape of global fashion.

Milan: The heart of fashion and innovation

The selection of Milan as the host city reinforces the strategic positioning of Intertex Milano. Renowned globally as a capital of fashion and design, Milan provides an ideal backdrop for an event that bridges traditional manufacturing and cutting-edge international innovation.

The Marriott Hotel venue is located in a prime position, offering easy access to the Duomo, the San Siro district, and other iconic landmarks. By hosting the fair in this vibrant center of industry, Intertex Milano remains at the crossroads of European creativity, providing an elegant and professional setting for deal-making and industry dialogue.

  

In a strategic alignment that bridges seven decades of Western tradition with the grit of urban hip-hop culture, Wrangler and Avirex have launched an exclusive limited-edition collection. Released on March 4, 2026, the seven-piece collaboration synthesizes Wrangler’s archival denim ruggedness with Avirex’s legendary premium leather craftsmanship. This partnership represents a calculated expansion for both entities, targeting a demographic that values provenance, tactile authenticity, and \’city swagger.’ By blending Western design codes - such as 1940s-inspired chainstitching and iconic ‘W’ pocket embroidery - with Avirex’s aviation-derived bomber silhouettes, the brands have created a modern uniform that seeks to transcend traditional category boundaries.

Bridging rodeos and city streets

The commercial focus of the collection rests on high-value outerwear and elevated basics. Key pieces include a Suede Trucker Jacket retailing at $1,699.99 and a Patch Jacket in signature ‘Wrangler Blue,’ which serve as luxury anchors for the capsule. Beyond the premium outerwear, the collection integrates daily essentials like heavyweight cotton hoodies and joggers featuring western-style ‘scroll’ embroidery. Holly Wheeler, Vice President - Global Brand Marketing, Kontoor Brands Inc, emphasized, the synergy between the two houses is a natural evolution, allowing Wrangler to deepen its presence in the premium space while leveraging Avirex’s deep cultural influence in the streetwear market. The collection’s design-led differentiation provides a distinct advantage in a retail environment currently pivoting toward slow fashion, durability, and storytelling-driven consumption.

This collaboration arrives as Wrangler’s parent company, Kontoor Brands maintains strong momentum. Following a transformational 2025, which included the successful acquisition of Helly Hansen, Kontoor reported global Wrangler revenue of $1.91 billion for the full year, a 6 per cent increase. Management’s 2026 outlook projects consolidated revenue between $3.40 billion and $3.45 billion, supported by ongoing ‘demand creation’ investments. By leveraging limited-edition capsules with partners like Avirex, Wrangler continues to successfully engage new customer segments and expand its direct-to-consumer (DTC) footprint, which saw significant double-digit growth in recent quarters.

A Kontoor Brands subsidiary, Wrangler is a global leader in Western-inspired apparel, renowned for its 75-year legacy in durable denim. Founded in 1975, Avirex is an iconic American brand famous for its military-inspired leather aviation jackets. Together, they combine Western utility and urban luxury to reach diverse, modern global markets.

  

In a development that has ignited a firestorm across digital fashion platforms, Ralph Lauren has drawn significant criticism following its Fall 2026 women’s runway show at Paris Fashion Week. While the brand’s presentation highlighted its signature tailored ensembles and sophisticated aesthetic, it was the choice of accessories - specifically silver, bell-shaped dangling earrings - that captured public scrutiny. Fashion commentators and social media users were swift to identify these pieces as traditional South Asian jhumkas, noting their striking resemblance to heritage designs that have been a staple of Indian jewellery for centuries.

The controversy of erasure and attribution

The primary point of contention stems from the brand’s labeling of these items as ‘authentic vintage accessories.’ Critics have argued that by omitting any reference to the cultural origins or South Asian lineage of the jhumka design, the brand has engaged in a form of cultural erasure. While the luxury house stated, select pieces were crafted by Native American designers as part of its ‘Authentic Makers and Artist in Residence’ programs, observers have pointed out, this does not account for the specific stylistic identity of the bell-shaped earrings. The incident has revived long-standing debates regarding the Global North’s tendency to adopt motifs from the Global South - ranging from Indian mukaish embroidery to traditional footwear - without providing appropriate historical context or credit to the artisan communities from which these designs originate.

Navigating the future of heritage innovation

Industry experts suggest, this backlash reflects a growing demand for accountability in luxury retail. As designers increasingly seek inspiration from diverse cultures, the expectation for transparent collaboration and respectful attribution has intensified. Intellectual property lawyers note, while traditional crafts often fall into a complex legal grey area, ethical fashion standards necessitate a shift away from ‘inspiration-only’ models toward direct, credited partnerships. For major houses, the challenge lies in balancing aesthetic innovation with the responsibility of honouring the cultural narratives that enrich their collections. This controversy serves as a stark reminder that in the modern fashion landscape, the provenance of a design is as critical as its visual appeal.

Ralph Lauren Corporation is a global leader in the design, marketing, and distribution of luxury lifestyle products across apparel, footwear, accessories, home, and fragrances. Founded in 1967, the brand is renowned for defining American style. It operates through various labels, including Ralph Lauren Collection and Polo Ralph Lauren.

  

Monforts has signaled a strategic shift towards enhanced remote connectivity and operational transparency in the global textile machinery sector by launching an advanced digital platform. The platform provides manufacturers with high-fidelity, interactive 3D virtual tours of core finishing equipment, including the Montex stenter lines,Monfortex sanforising systems, and Thermex continuous dyeing technologies. By allowing users to virtually navigate installations to examine intricate configurations and individual components, Monforts is effectively shortening the distance between machine design and shop-floor deployment.

Streamlining operational lifecycle management

Beyond visual exploration, the platform serves as a centralized hub for lifecycle management, addressing the critical industry requirement for reduced downtime and rapid aftersales responsiveness. Manufacturers can now initiate spare part procurement and schedule technical support via a streamlined, direct-routing interface. This digitalization of the service workflow is designed to accelerate resolution times for urgent maintenance needs. Furthermore, the platform offers comprehensive data on machinery modernization, facilitating upgrades to advanced drive systems and resource-saving modules that extend the operational life of existing capital assets.

Driving digital integration in textile manufacturing

This launch reflects broader industry trends, where machinery suppliers are increasingly positioning themselves as digital service partners rather than mere hardware providers. As textile manufacturers navigate margin pressures and sustainability mandates, the ability to monitor machine conditions and optimize production planning via integrated digital ecosystems has become a competitive necessity. According to Monforts, this digital transformation empowers operators to achieve greater precision and energy efficiency, aligning with the industry’s broader transition toward smart, interconnected factory environments.

Monforts is a global leader in the development and manufacture of high-end textile finishing machinery. Its product portfolio encompasses stenters, dyeing ranges, and specialized coating systems. With a strong commitment to sustainable, future-proof engineering, the company focuses on delivering high-efficiency technology solutions to meet the demanding requirements of global textile markets. Established in 1884, Monforts continues to define industry standards in textile finishing quality and innovation.

  

Currently valued at US$ 22.3 billion, the Indonesian apparel market is entering a phase of accelerated evolution as digital transformation reshapes the retail landscape. Research from Ken Research indicates, the sector is shifting away from traditional brick-and-mortar models toward robust omnichannel frameworks. This transition is largely fueled by a younger demographic that prioritizes social media-driven trends, leading to a surge in demand for casual, modest, and premium sportswear categories. The integration of digital fashion marketplaces is not merely a convenience factor but a fundamental change in how manufacturers must align their production cycles with real-time consumer preferences and rapid replenishment demands.

Strategic investment and market expansion

For global investors and manufacturers, the Indonesian retail ecosystem represents a high-growth corridor that requires localized expertise to navigate. While the market offers substantial scale, success is contingent upon integrating sustainable supply chains and adapting to the unique fashion consciousness of the local market. Namit Goel, Research Director, Ken Research, emphasizes, this transformation is creating a distinct inflection point for brands to secure market share through targeted digital engagement. As the industry advances toward its 2030 projections, manufacturers are responding by diversifying their portfolio to include a mix of heritage-inspired modest fashion alongside global trend-led apparel, ensuring long-term competitiveness in an increasingly fragmented but lucrative consumer environment.

A global advisory firm, Ken Research specializes in strategic market analysis, economic forecasting, and competitive intelligence. The group covers diverse industries including retail and textiles, providing actionable insights for international corporations. With a focus on emerging Asian markets, they assist stakeholders in identifying high-potential growth opportunities and sector-specific risks.

  

The closure of the Strait of Hormuz, has precipitated a sharp escalation in polyester fiber prices, creating significant turbulence within the global textile and apparel value chain. As of March 2026, the cost of polyester staple fiber has experienced a double-digit percentage increase, driven primarily by soaring petrochemical feedstock prices and heightened maritime freight volatility. With crude oil valuations surging in response to the conflict, downstream manufacturers are grappling with increased production overheads that threaten to compress margins across the garment manufacturing sector.

Navigating supply chain reconfiguration

The disruption has compelled shipping lines to divert cargo vessels around the Cape of Good Hope, a logistical shift that extends transit times by approximately 20 to 25 days. This redirection not only inflates bunker fuel consumption and insurance premiums but also strains container availability, impacting the reliability of time-sensitive fashion supply cycles. Industry analysts note that export-dependent textile hubs, particularly in India and Southeast Asia, face a dual challenge: rising raw material input costs and the potential for order cancellations due to delivery delays. Consequently, apparel manufacturers are being forced to reassess their procurement strategies, with many considering higher inventory buffers or nearshoring options to mitigate the risks of prolonged transit uncertainty.

Operational resilience amidst escalating costs

The current environment represents a stark departure from the relative pricing stability observed in previous quarters. As polyester accounts for approximately 75 per cent of synthetic fabric production, fluctuations in its cost have direct implications for both mass-market apparel and technical textile applications. While some firms are attempting to absorb these costs to maintain competitive pricing, others are navigating complex price negotiations with global buyers to pass on inflationary pressures. The industry is now entering a period where agility, data-driven supply chain transparency, and diversified sourcing are becoming paramount for maintaining operational continuity in a fractured global trade landscape.

The polyester fibre market is a cornerstone of the global textile industry, supplying essential materials for apparel, home furnishings, and automotive interiors. Valued at over $100 billion, the sector relies heavily on petrochemical feedstocks. Major players prioritize scaling production and recycled fibre innovation to meet global demand.

  

Australian retail giant Cotton On Group has officially commenced operations in India, marking a strategic entry into one of the world's fastest-growing apparel markets. By establishing a physical and digital presence, the brand aims to capture the burgeoning demand for contemporary, value-conscious fashion among India’s urban youth demographic. This expansion aligns with the retailer’s objective of diversifying its revenue streams beyond the Asia-Pacific region, tapping into a sector currently valued at over $100 billion. The company is prioritizing high-traffic metropolitan retail spaces, which experts suggest will create direct competition for domestic fast-fashion incumbents.

Navigating local consumer preferences and supply chains

The entry of Cotton On into the Indian landscape arrives at a moment when consumers are increasingly seeking globally recognized casualwear with consistent quality standards. Industry analyst Sameer Malhotra notes, the brand’s ability to maintain competitive price points while adhering to its international aesthetic will be the primary determinant of its market penetration success. To mitigate logistical hurdles, the group is leveraging existing regional sourcing networks for staple fibers and fabrics, ensuring a steady supply of its core cotton-based product lines. This localization strategy is essential for managing the inflationary pressures on raw material costs that have historically challenged international entrants in the Indian textile sphere.

Cotton On Group is a prominent Australian fashion retailer specializing in affordable casualwear, activewear, and stationery. Operating globally across diverse markets, the company focuses on scalable, youth-oriented product categories. With this latest entry into India, the firm plans to aggressively expand its store count, targeting sustained long-term revenue growth.

  

To be held at the National Exhibition & Convention Center in Shanghai, the 2026 spring edition of the China International Fashion Fair (CHIC) has solidified its position as the premier nerve center for the global textile and apparel trade. Running from March 11 to 13, this year’s fair occupies 117,200 sq m, hosting 1,091 exhibitors and over 1,135 brands. Beyond simple transaction facilitation, the event serves as a high-stakes arena for supply chain synchronization, with major retail powerhouses including JD.com, Douyin, and SHEIN actively scouting for next-generation manufacturing capabilities and design innovation.

Harmonizing tradition with technological advancement

A central theme of the 2026 exhibition is the fusion of artisanal heritage with digitized production. Located in Hall 1.1, the ‘Chinese Style’ segment demonstrates the commercial success of reinterpreting historical aesthetics for contemporary, high-volume retail. Industry analysts note that this design-led differentiation is a critical response to shifting global consumer preferences. By integrating AI-driven defect detection and automated inventory management, exhibitors are addressing the industry’s need for lean, resilient operations. As exhibitors from Italy, France, and Japan showcase advanced textile solutions alongside domestic manufacturers, the fair underscores a move toward a truly circular, technology-enabled supply chain, emphasizing long-term value creation over seasonal volume.

CHIC Shanghai is Asia’s most influential fashion trade fair, connecting global manufacturers, designers, and retailers. It focuses on facilitating B2B trade, showcasing emerging trends, and supporting international brand expansion. The platform emphasizes digital innovation, sustainable material development, and the integration of cultural heritage with modern, high-performance apparel retail.

  

Japanese fashion and lifestyle institution Beams is expanding its North American footprint with the upcoming launch of a 1,250-sq-m flagship store in Los Angeles. This move represents a strategic maturation of the brand's US operations, evolving from experimental pop-up activations to a permanent retail anchor. By establishing a dedicated regional subsidiary, Beams America, the company is positioning itself to better manage the logistical and cultural nuances of the US market. The flagship will embody the retailer’s signature ‘select shop\’ format, a highly curated retail approach that harmonizes in-house proprietary labels with a diverse mix of third-party brands. This physical expansion serves as a cornerstone for Beams' long-term objective to translate its Tokyo-honed lifestyle concept for a broader American demographic, prioritizing brand immersion over rapid market saturation.

Data-driven expansion in a cfcc ompetitive Landscape

The decision to invest in a large-scale physical footprint comes at a time when US fashion retail is undergoing a notable ‘discovery loop’ trend, where even digitally native consumers prioritize the tactile experience of brick-and-mortar stores. According to recent retail intelligence, US shoppers increasingly favor structured, clear storefronts that facilitate intuitive navigation, a preference that aligns with Beams' organized yet eclectic merchandising philosophy. While North American fashion retail faces macroeconomic headwinds and low single-digit growth projections for 2026, brands that emphasize high-quality, community-first experiences are outperforming the broader market. Beams is leveraging the insights gained from its recent pop-up series in Los Angeles to fine-tune its local inventory, ensuring the flagship effectively caters to the specific demand for high-performance textiles and unique aesthetic crossovers.

Balancing global ambition with operational prudence

The expansion highlights a measured approach to international growth, contrasting with the aggressive, high-volume strategies often seen in global apparel. By integrating an e-commerce platform launched in 2025 with this physical flagship, Beams is creating an omnichannel ecosystem that supports both local engagement and wider accessibility. This infrastructure is designed to bridge the gap between Japanese craftsmanship and US market sensibilities, fostering a ‘chemical reaction’ of cultural exchange. As the company celebrates its 50th anniversary, the US expansion stands as a definitive milestone, signaling a shift from a Japan-centric business model to a globally integrated organization capable of maintaining its niche status while scaling its reach in one of the world's most demanding retail environments.

Founded in 1976 in Tokyo, Beams is a premier Japanese lifestyle and fashion retailer. It specializes in apparel, accessories, and lifestyle goods through a curated "select shop" model. Operating 175 stores across Asia, the company is now scaling into the US via Beams America to foster global brand growth.

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