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The research, development and marketing body of the Australian wool industry Australian Wool Innovation (AWI) plans to significantly increase its investment in reproductive efficiency of Merino over the next four years.
Building on its investment of over $2.7 million in all facets of the Lifetime Ewe Management program over four years, AWI aims in new research and development opportunities to improve the reproductive performance of the Merino. As AWI’s flagship extension program, Lifetime Ewe Management (LTEM) has now directly influenced 20 per cent of the national flock. The 3,000 wool producers that have participated in LTEM have on average increased weaning rates by 10 per cent and reduced ewe mortality by 30 per cent. AWI now aims to increase the participation rate of LTEM to 50 per cent of the national flock by 2019, assisted by regional variants of the program.
A farm based course developed and delivered through Rural Industries Skill Training or RIST, LTEM involves woolgrowers learning to best match the energy requirements of animals with pasture production and supplementary feeding to maximise production and animal welfare. To help guide research opportunities, renew strategy and deliver further extension, AWI has brought on board renowned sheep researcher Dr Andrew Thompson as the new Program Manager of Reproduction for AWI.
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All about premium labels and partnerships...
With 20 offices around the world, Prosperity Textile sells all over the globe. However, 50 per cent of their sales come from Chinese customers, says Andy. He adds “Nearly 25 per cent sales is in the US and 25 per cent is in Europe. A leading denim maker in China, Prosperity has seen 50 per cent sales growth for the first half of the year. It is ranked among the good suppliers in the global denim makers”.
“Knit denim is a strong segment we are in along with our partner. We also have a small range of dyed yarn. The company has a long-term partnership with Lenzing and Invista. Moreover, the label ‘Prosperity’ is with all premium brands such as H&M, American Eagle. In China, we are approaching only big brands,” says Andy.
One of the biggest Tencel denim fabric makers in China, in 2014, Prosperity sold six million yards of it, informs Andy. Apart from this, they also use Invista fabrics such as Cool Max.
Speaking about their partnerships, Andy says, “Last year, Prosperity entered into a strategic partnership with a denim mill in Bangladesh. With this tie-up we can provide one to two million yards a month. Besides, the company has invested in Vietnam and the project should begin in 2017. This is an ambitious project, with a capacity of more than 10 million yards,” Andy informs. Since Vietnam’s labour costs are cheaper than China’s there is a lot of textile and yarn suppliers and garment makers across the value chain. Thus, Andy feels this is a good place to expand their Prosperity Textiles’ capacity.
A strong global presence
Andy says they are set to ramp up production “Prosperity is known for its fit and function. The company takes inspiration from active wear and sportswear combining them in denim. So denim can be worn as active wear making one feel cool in summer and warm in winter,” he explains.
Prosperity’s regular denim is 100 percent cotton, which is 40 percent of their range, while 60 percent is stretch or other fibres. In stretch, they have two collections “Coflex, or comfort flex which has 15 to 30 percent stretch. This is for men and women’s wear. The other collection with a higher stretch level is ultra-stretch, with 40 to 80 per cent stretch.” Besides, they also have bio-stretch, which is a four way stretch and more comfortable.
Prosperity uses innovative fibres in making its denim. One such fibre, ‘F2, Fit and Function’, can actually help absorb heat and increase oxygen levels. This has temperature management and helps cool faster in summer, while in winter the fibres help keep one warm. Currently, this fibre is being used for jeans wear and Prosperity is the only one with this product in the market.
Besides these innovations, the company also uses a lot of sustainable materials, informs Andy. “Tencel and recycled cotton and polyester. We also source eco-friendly material and use new technologies in dyeing. We recycle water to quality standards in an effort to save it. We also do laser washes and have partnered with Jeanologia,” says Andy. He says sustainable production is still a small portion of what they do, however, he believes this trend will grow.
R K Dalmia, Chairman, Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (Texprocil), has said that the Interest Equalization Scheme, previously known as the Interest Rate Subvention Scheme, on pre-shipment and post-shipment of garments is likely to boost cotton textile exports from India. For exporters for five years, the Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs approved 3 per cent subvention scheme, with a retrospective effect from April 1, 2015 and this would be reviewed after three years. At a time when total exports have been declining for the past 11 months, this has come as a great relief to the industry as cotton textiles exports in India is set to revive with the scheme. Garment manufacturers will be able compete with other countries such as Bangladesh, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and Vietnam in the Western world, which the new scheme would allow.
Dalmia said the scheme would provide the much needed boost to exports of cotton textiles as all categories of fabrics and made-ups have been covered under it. Exporters were keenly looking forward towards the announcement of this scheme as they were facing depressed market conditions and declining exports, he added.
Cotton yarns and merchant exporters however, do not fall under the scheme. Currently, cotton yarn exports are going through difficult market conditions, especially in China and this product should be covered under the scheme to enable yarn exporters to reduce costs and remain competitive in these difficult times, pointed Dalmia.
G7 countries are taking action to promote sustainable global supply chains by boosting labor rights, decent working conditions and environmental protection. Group of Seven (G7) member countries are Canada, France, Germany, Great Britain, Italy, Japan, and the United States.
An estimated 450 million people work in global supply chains. A multi-donor Vision Zero Fund will be created. The fund will support social dialogue and standards on occupational safety and health and fundamental principles and rights at work in global supply chains.
About 2.3 million men and women die every year from work-related accidents and diseases. An estimated four per cent of the world’s GDP is lost annually due to the costs of work-related accidents and diseases. The Vision Zero Fund will help prevent and reduce the number of workplace-related deaths, injuries and diseases. Gaining access to global supply chains can be an important part of strategies for poverty reduction. The fund will help make this route safer.
G7 has also expressed support for the implementation of the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development and its sustainable development goals, especially by working alongside developing countries. It also stressed the need to provide more information to consumers and to promote more responsible value chains.
The ‘Sustainable Development and Business Practices – 2015 Green Supply Chain Forum’ was convened jointly with Tianjin Green Supply Chain Center (TGCC), China Environmental United Certification Center (CEC), Institute of Public and Environmental Affairs (IPE) on October 22. Industry associations and 60 internationally known companies and over 200 guests from relevant government departments, and NGOs, included Environmental Defense Fund (EDF), Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC), SEE Conservation, China National Textile And Apparel Council (CNTAC), China Electronics Standardization Association (CESA), Walmart, Apple, Microsoft, H&M, Marks & Spencer, Amazon, Unilever, Huawei, Lenovo, Panasonic, and Toyota took part.
The Head of the Steering Group of Tianjin Green Supply Chain Management Pilot Project, Jindu Cui, expressed his sincere wishes to the forum, hoping that it can be held on a timely, regular and customised basis henceforth, to continually enhance the demonstration effect and multi-stakeholders communication.
A plenary session and four afternoon sub-sessions around the themes of Green Procurement, Green Supply Chains and Green Consumption, Green Transformation of the Textile Industry and Green Supply Chain Innovation in the IT Industry were held at the forum.
Managing Director, TSC Greater China, Weidong Zhou said it was a great honour for TSC to hold the forum with partners and support the translation and publication of the Chinese version of the study. He pointed out that it is the crucial time for accelerating ecological civiliaation construction to achieve industrial green upgrade under China's 13th Five-year Plan for National Economic and Social Development in China. TSC would bring its research strength and product sustainability tools to actively promote sustainable development and supply chain management in China's manufacturing industry, Zhou stated.
Two Dhaka RMG factories have been pulled up by a review panel for unsafe conditions. ARA/Apparel Exports has been asked to suspend production partially by a review panel of factory inspections.
Safety faults were found by the panel and it advised the factory to go for detailed engineering assessment (DEA). Apart from this, Finery Limited in Dhaka was also asked by the panel to conduct DEA in next the 10 days. The panel warned that closure will be the option if the factory fails to fall in line. Both the garment factories are located in the city’s Darussalam area.
Structural flaws in the building were discovered by Accord and Alliance earlier and they asked for partial evacuation and DEA. However, the authorities refused to comply. Government review panel was sought for help by Accord and Alliance.
Syed Ahmed, Chief Inspector of the Department of Inspection for Factories and Establishment stated that the review panel members visited two factories and asked one to suspend production in the top two floors while another was to do DEA within 10 days. He added that the ARA/Apparel Export Ltd produces RMG products for EU retailers, while Finery Ltd supplies to the North American buyers.
Alleging violation of a global trade rule for export competitiveness in textiles, the US has opposed India’s latest round of incentives to boost exports. The US raised this issue after India increased support for exports of several products including textiles while expanding the scope of the Merchandise Exports from India Scheme (MEIS) on October 30,.
Leading markets including African countries came under government exports of cotton fabrics, both woven and knitted, and made-ups, under the MEIS. When the export share of a developing country with per capita income below $1,000 a year touches 3.25 percent in any product category for two consecutive calendar years, it is deemed to have gained ‘export competitiveness’. This is as per the World Trade Organisation's agreement on subsidies and countervailing measures.
For eight years, from the second year of breach, such a country is then required to phase out export subsidies for the items. The WTO mandates developing countries to phase out the export subsidies within the eight-year period, preferably in a progressive manner. in 2010, the WTO had asked India to consider phasing out the subsidies for textiles and clothing.
India cannot give additional subsidy during the phase-out period said a US official and the US has flagged the issue of export competitiveness in textiles. India has crossed the export limit and the government is aware of this but the market is moving slow, said another official in the Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council.
Australia’s cotton shipments to nearly all major markets are down. Over the previous four seasons, Australia had shipped nearly two-thirds of its exports to China. However, since the harvest started for 2015 crop, Australia’s exports as a share of the crop are at a 10-year low, largely on weak import demand from China.
In fact, many cotton exporters’ shipments have been affected thus far in 2015-16 by weak demand from China. Major importers have resorted to hand-to-mouth buying. In contrast, the United States has thus far in 2015-16 managed to offset lower shipments to China with higher shipments to markets in Vietnam, Indonesia and Thailand.
Brazil and Turkmenistan have had robust sales. Competitively priced, quality varieties remain in demand, especially for export to destinations where mill use remains relatively strong, notably Vietnam and Turkey.
World production is lowered, mostly due to changes in India, China, and Pakistan. Consumption is slightly lower, ending stocks are lowered, while trade is about even. For 2015-16, Brazil’s exports are expected to be four million bales. Turkmenistan’s exports are likely to touch 1.1 million bales. On the other hand, Mali’s exports would decline to 1.1 million bales. Likewise exports from Greece are projected to fall to one million bales.
The Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) is gaining ground with at least five more countries planning to join the trade pact. At present there are 12 TPP members including Brunei, Chile, New Zealand, Singapore, Australia, Canada, Japan, Malaysia, Mexico, Peru, the United States and Vietnam.
Countries that have at various times indicated interest in joining TPP are South Korea, Taiwan, the Philippines, Colombia, Thailand, Laos, Indonesia, Cambodia, Bangladesh and India. The Trans-Pacific Partnership would affect 40 per cent of the world economy. It’s expected to cut red tape globally and set the rules for the 21st century for trade.
The deal could reshape industries and influence everything from the price of cheese to the cost of cancer treatments. It is seen as a challenge to China’s growing dominance in the Pacific region. It sets tariff reduction schedules on hundreds of imported items from pork and beef in Japan to pickup trucks in the United States.
The deal sets minimum standards on issues ranging from workers’ rights to environmental protection. It also sets up dispute settlement guidelines between governments and foreign investors separate from national courts. It would give Japan’s automakers a freer hand to buy parts from Asia for vehicles sold in the United States.
A denim archive is being set up in the Netherlands. It will hold a multi-brand collection of denim garments contributed by industry leaders, brands and iconic denim wearers. The focus of the archive is the period between 1945 and 2045. Pieces may be of interest because of their design, fabric, construction, wear, finish, fit, era, or simply because of a story behind them.
Archival garments will be stored, along with their attached story sheet, and kept separately in closed containers, with the most valuable pieces under lock and key. On display will be a pair of knit-denim flare jeans with no waistband, no pockets, no fly, and 360 degree stretch; a pair of jeans in original, organic selvedge cotton, with a bright blue wash and mild cracking, paint splatter and some distress; a pair of handspun, hand woven, natural indigo jeans with irregularity in the thread, in the weave and in the color because it is all hand done.
The aim of the archive is to connect and inspire people in their passion for denim, to show the range of what denim has been, can be, and what it means to people. The project wants to make denim accessible to everyone for inspiration, study and reference, both in the physical form and soon also online.
